inner tie rod tool
05-13-2010, 08:55 AM
#2
adavance auto and autozone rent this tool for 40 bucks u give them the 40 they give u the tool u bring it back they give u the 40 back u dont pay anything they only make you give them what the think the tool is worth so if u dont bring it back they keep your money
05-13-2010, 12:56 PM
#4
did mine the beging of the year i will say there was some play between the tool an tie rod but it worked for me
05-13-2010, 01:20 PM
#5
The inner tierod too autozone has does not work because the side of the actual joint is bigger than the "nut" so the pipe size socket will not work. However for 19.99 they rent something else that will kind of help, its also an inner tierod tool, looks like a big socket 36mm but has a U shape slit so you can slide it over the inner tierod and and turn it with a big possible 1" wrench from the outside. Didn't work too well but helped a bit.
My overall prefered tool for doing inner tierods is the air chisel/impact hammer as you can simply chisel away counter clockwise and get it overwith in less than a minute.
This is the tool I used on Ninos_Maxima's 99 and it sucked but it helped since he didnt have airtools
My overall prefered tool for doing inner tierods is the air chisel/impact hammer as you can simply chisel away counter clockwise and get it overwith in less than a minute.
This is the tool I used on Ninos_Maxima's 99 and it sucked but it helped since he didnt have airtools
05-13-2010, 06:07 PM
#9
05-14-2010, 09:57 AM
#10
The inner tierod too autozone has does not work because the side of the actual joint is bigger than the "nut" so the pipe size socket will not work. However for 19.99 they rent something else that will kind of help, its also an inner tierod tool, looks like a big socket 36mm but has a U shape slit so you can slide it over the inner tierod and and turn it with a big possible 1" wrench from the outside. Didn't work too well but helped a bit.
My overall prefered tool for doing inner tierods is the air chisel/impact hammer as you can simply chisel away counter clockwise and get it overwith in less than a minute.
This is the tool I used on Ninos_Maxima's 99 and it sucked but it helped since he didnt have airtools
My overall prefered tool for doing inner tierods is the air chisel/impact hammer as you can simply chisel away counter clockwise and get it overwith in less than a minute.
This is the tool I used on Ninos_Maxima's 99 and it sucked but it helped since he didnt have airtools
05-14-2010, 11:05 AM
#11
and it sucks doesnt it?
This is the best option in my opinion
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-too...kit-32940.html
This is the best option in my opinion
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-too...kit-32940.html
05-14-2010, 12:09 PM
#12
and it sucks doesnt it?
This is the best option in my opinion
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-too...kit-32940.html
This is the best option in my opinion
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-too...kit-32940.html
05-14-2010, 12:38 PM
#13
07-30-2010, 01:33 PM
#14
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 7
The tool in O'Reilly works
The tool that is similar to the one in luke95gxe will work.
I checked out a tool set from O'Reilly, and it worked fine.
Later I also found that Autozone had the tool, too.
It should be the combination of their "Inner Tie Rod Tool (2 in 1)" + "Attachment for GM vehicle".
The attachment looks like the one in luke95gxe.
Get the one that has 1(5/16)" opening size.
This one is a little bit larger size, but it will be easier to use than the one with the correct size (1 3/16).
When you take apart the inner tie rod, you will see the torn rubber boot. That was my case.
To get it from Autozone, ask them "bellows".
That's what their system said.
Have Fun.
I checked out a tool set from O'Reilly, and it worked fine.
Later I also found that Autozone had the tool, too.
It should be the combination of their "Inner Tie Rod Tool (2 in 1)" + "Attachment for GM vehicle".
The attachment looks like the one in luke95gxe.
Get the one that has 1(5/16)" opening size.
This one is a little bit larger size, but it will be easier to use than the one with the correct size (1 3/16).
When you take apart the inner tie rod, you will see the torn rubber boot. That was my case.
To get it from Autozone, ask them "bellows".
That's what their system said.
Have Fun.
03-13-2012, 02:58 PM
#15
I'm bumping this to show you guys what tool I used to do the inner tie rods. 
You can rent this from Pep Boys. One of the sockets fit the original inner tie rods a little loosely, but it worked fine. The other socket fit perfectly on the Deeza inner tie rods that I got from RockAuto.
You can rent this from Pep Boys. One of the sockets fit the original inner tie rods a little loosely, but it worked fine. The other socket fit perfectly on the Deeza inner tie rods that I got from RockAuto.
09-12-2012, 11:17 PM
#19
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Anaheim, CA
Posts: 36
Ok, I'm in the middle of rebuilding a Maxima I just picked up...I didn't realize pulling that inner tie rod off was such a P.I.T.A. I found this thread while trying to figure out how to remove that retaining clip!
I usually just get **** done, even if something ends up breaking, like parts or knuckles...but my replacement part came with some odd looking washer, instead of the 4 sided clip/retainer that's on there now.
I've poked, pushed and pried a little at it, but it won't budge...is there a quick secret to this? Or do I just need to destroy it and buy another clip (or what ever the technical name is)? Thanks a lot for any feed back, my car is up on jacks, looking naked and vulnerable!
I usually just get **** done, even if something ends up breaking, like parts or knuckles...but my replacement part came with some odd looking washer, instead of the 4 sided clip/retainer that's on there now.
I've poked, pushed and pried a little at it, but it won't budge...is there a quick secret to this? Or do I just need to destroy it and buy another clip (or what ever the technical name is)? Thanks a lot for any feed back, my car is up on jacks, looking naked and vulnerable!
09-13-2012, 04:59 PM
#20
On my 98 I just bent the locking clip enough to remove the tie rod. Reassembly is a bit tricky tiring to bend/punch it back in place.
Oddly enough I just did my 03 Alti and while everything looks identical, the only thing holding the inner tie rod is loc tite. There was no clip to mess with. It was a lot easier this way. I also rented the tool shown above. Its a bit clumsy, but did the job.
Oddly enough I just did my 03 Alti and while everything looks identical, the only thing holding the inner tie rod is loc tite. There was no clip to mess with. It was a lot easier this way. I also rented the tool shown above. Its a bit clumsy, but did the job.
09-14-2012, 09:16 PM
#21
I bought the Harbor Freight version of this tool and it worked great (had to use a breaker bar to get it started). The washer that locks the inner tie rod nut to the rack (bent over the inner tie rod nut) was a little tough to get something on to bend it back, but other than that - not too bad.
10-20-2012, 07:12 PM
#22
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Anaheim, CA
Posts: 36
Inner Tie Rod Swap Install 1995 Nissan Maxima SE A32
I just remembered to update...this really wasn't as hard as I thought. I just didn't understand how the old locking plate was held in, and how the new (but different locking plate went together).
OEM are Nissan part# 48635-A32B001 and look like this:
Aftermarket will generally look like this:
After research, trial, and error...here's what worked for me:
1. Tool rental (really free) from Oreilly's.
2. Bend the (4) tabs back on OEM lock plate with a long flat head, and a hammer.
3.Remove old inner tie rod and OEM lock plate (do not re-use LP)
4. Install new lock plate with tabs facing toward the engine.
5. Loc-tite on the inner tie rod threads
6. Hand tighten assuring the locking plate tabs are seating in the groove properly, and there is no longer any play.
7. My tool was slightly fatter (thicker), so I ended up giving all (4) exposed sides of the new lock plate, and quick smack, back towards the engine. This let the tool fit onto the inner tie rod properly.
8. Finish by torquing to factory specs of 58-72 lbs. per Nissan FSM
For some reason, this was a difficult thing to get the correct information for, hopefully this pulls up if somebody else attempts to swap out their inner tie rods.
The internet was full of misinformation, from recommendations of just tossing those new lock plates out, to incorrect torque specs.
Everything I just wrote is FACTUAL (not "I think" or "maybe")...word of advice to people who don't know correct information...
just don't say anything!!!! Misinforming people is far worse than just saying, "I don't know".
OEM are Nissan part# 48635-A32B001 and look like this:
Aftermarket will generally look like this:
After research, trial, and error...here's what worked for me:
1. Tool rental (really free) from Oreilly's.
2. Bend the (4) tabs back on OEM lock plate with a long flat head, and a hammer.
3.Remove old inner tie rod and OEM lock plate (do not re-use LP)
4. Install new lock plate with tabs facing toward the engine.
5. Loc-tite on the inner tie rod threads
6. Hand tighten assuring the locking plate tabs are seating in the groove properly, and there is no longer any play.
7. My tool was slightly fatter (thicker), so I ended up giving all (4) exposed sides of the new lock plate, and quick smack, back towards the engine. This let the tool fit onto the inner tie rod properly.
8. Finish by torquing to factory specs of 58-72 lbs. per Nissan FSM
For some reason, this was a difficult thing to get the correct information for, hopefully this pulls up if somebody else attempts to swap out their inner tie rods.
The internet was full of misinformation, from recommendations of just tossing those new lock plates out, to incorrect torque specs.
Everything I just wrote is FACTUAL (not "I think" or "maybe")...word of advice to people who don't know correct information...
just don't say anything!!!! Misinforming people is far worse than just saying, "I don't know".
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