What to look for in buying 4th gen
What to look for in buying 4th gen
First time in the 4th gen sub-forum 
I'm possibly looking to buy another maxima, I'm bias to the 3rd gen and been looking for another. They are few and far apart especially for one in good condition around here.
So I might be tempted to get a 4th gen. I need to know what to look for when buying one as in rust spots (I live up north), parts failing, recalls, years to buy or not, Prices. Anything that can make or break a deal basically.
Now sell me the "4th gen".

I'm possibly looking to buy another maxima, I'm bias to the 3rd gen and been looking for another. They are few and far apart especially for one in good condition around here.
So I might be tempted to get a 4th gen. I need to know what to look for when buying one as in rust spots (I live up north), parts failing, recalls, years to buy or not, Prices. Anything that can make or break a deal basically.
Now sell me the "4th gen".
Radiator core support, timing chain rattle, coils, ball joints, alternators, knock sensors, rust. Get a 97-98 DO NOT get a 99.
am i forgetting anything guys?
any max you look at bring it to a shop throw it on a lift.
am i forgetting anything guys?
any max you look at bring it to a shop throw it on a lift.
Last edited by FallenOne; May 22, 2010 at 04:42 PM.
Fallen one pretty much sumed it up, Never get a 99 they are loaded with coil pack problems. look at the catalyst when on the lift, minimal rust? Start her up n take a look at exhaust, white smoke anywhere? Listen the engine for any abnormal knocks or idles, it will be semi loud because these cars have loud lifters! XD
going to have to agree on not getting a 99, especially the cali spec, i wish i had none of that crap...
also, turn the ac/defrost on and off and listen for the bearing, if it's real loud, try to deduct the cost of the compressor and ac recharge costs cuz ur gonna need it at some point
also, turn the ac/defrost on and off and listen for the bearing, if it's real loud, try to deduct the cost of the compressor and ac recharge costs cuz ur gonna need it at some point
I was wondering what was the deal on the '99s. Reading through the reviews on carsurvey.com, it's all peachy up to '98 - everyone rattling on about how the car has never, ever given them a problem - when all of a sudden in '99 they're all pissing themselves about what a terrible car is the Maxima. Is there some particular component that's, like, guaranteed to fail? Way I see it, that's just an excuse for a 3.5 swap right off the bat...
If you were in Illinois, I'd say get a 1995. Anothing above 96 has emissions testing or "inspection" as some other states call it but on the 95 you dont yet you still have OBII like all the others.
95 is also the lightest of all while possible being the quickest if thats something you're looking into.
-Radiator support where the crossmember bolts
-injectors
-timing chain rattle
-coils
95 is also the lightest of all while possible being the quickest if thats something you're looking into.
-Radiator support where the crossmember bolts
-injectors
-timing chain rattle
-coils
Thanks guys.
Here is a list of important stuff to check for that I got from this thread;
- Don't get 99
- Rust on Radiator core support and rear quarter panels
- Timing chain rattle
- AC bearing
- injectors
- coils
- exhaust
The rest is normal stuff I normally look for when buying a car (ball joints for example) And I work in a garage so it won't be a problem to inspect it.
I'm gonna be looking for a 95 or 98, actually anything in between if the price is right. 95 because they will be cheaper, and 98 because its 3 years younger. We don't have emissions or inspections here. Inspection only if the car has not been plated in over a year.
Here is a list of important stuff to check for that I got from this thread;
- Don't get 99
- Rust on Radiator core support and rear quarter panels
- Timing chain rattle
- AC bearing
- injectors
- coils
- exhaust
The rest is normal stuff I normally look for when buying a car (ball joints for example) And I work in a garage so it won't be a problem to inspect it.
I'm gonna be looking for a 95 or 98, actually anything in between if the price is right. 95 because they will be cheaper, and 98 because its 3 years younger. We don't have emissions or inspections here. Inspection only if the car has not been plated in over a year.
Also I suggest you use www.crazedlist.org instead of just craigslist. Its a multiple location search engine that'll allow you to select all the locations you want... works wonders
Update on this, I had an accident with my 3rd gen. Insurance is declaring it total because of cost of repair but its only front end damage. They are giving me a bit more than 1500 for it.
I saw a black on black leather 98 112k miles for 1200$ nego, I'll try to get it for 1000$. Alternator needs to be replaced. Looks decent from the photos, hopefully will be the same in real life.
I saw a black on black leather 98 112k miles for 1200$ nego, I'll try to get it for 1000$. Alternator needs to be replaced. Looks decent from the photos, hopefully will be the same in real life.
Last edited by Phatmatt; Jul 6, 2010 at 08:11 PM.
If you want a manual make sure it doesn't leak, its a very common problem with these cars. Also check for knock sensor, EGRC and intake air temp sensor. All of which I have to replace. I live in MN and the 97 i have does have rust. Also check for squeaks.
- rust on the radiator support
- timing chain rattle
- slight water leak by oil pan (water pump)
- if manual check for bearing noise
overall these engines can las 400k, leaks or no, but they live for ever, as do the VGs
- timing chain rattle
- slight water leak by oil pan (water pump)
- if manual check for bearing noise
overall these engines can las 400k, leaks or no, but they live for ever, as do the VGs
Besides, 99's come with the 3pt seatbelt for the middle rear passenger - not that you use it. It's just out of the way.
Looking at my sig picture pretty much "sells" the 4th gens =P lol jk jk
But problems I had you should look for is: Knock Sensor, Radiator support, oil leaks, make sure clutch is good if you get stick, Exhaust was rusted to hell. Not sure what else, everyone covered the basics.
But problems I had you should look for is: Knock Sensor, Radiator support, oil leaks, make sure clutch is good if you get stick, Exhaust was rusted to hell. Not sure what else, everyone covered the basics.
Looking at my sig picture pretty much "sells" the 4th gens =P lol jk jk
But problems I had you should look for is: Knock Sensor, Radiator support, oil leaks, make sure clutch is good if you get stick, Exhaust was rusted to hell. Not sure what else, everyone covered the basics.
But problems I had you should look for is: Knock Sensor, Radiator support, oil leaks, make sure clutch is good if you get stick, Exhaust was rusted to hell. Not sure what else, everyone covered the basics.
I still don't know why everyone is so hesitant on buying a 99. Yes it has issues, but nothing out of the ordinary from any other 4th gen. The coilpack failures occured when these cars were young (< 60,000 miles) and other than that, they have a few extra features that I think make it worth it. You get:
A digital odometer (98-99s)
Digital climate control has the AMB temp button (99 only)
Rear seat belt is a 3 pt. harness (99 only)
Immobolizer/security system (99 only)
SE-L has numerous other options (perforated leather, titanium gauges & wheels, etc)
Regardless, you can't go wrong with a 4th gen and I would advise you to look at 97-99s, like I did. I found that the small differences from 95-96 to 97-99 make it worth it (such as upgraded steering rack, minor appearance changes on the interior, etc). Good luck!
A digital odometer (98-99s)
Digital climate control has the AMB temp button (99 only)
Rear seat belt is a 3 pt. harness (99 only)
Immobolizer/security system (99 only)
SE-L has numerous other options (perforated leather, titanium gauges & wheels, etc)
Regardless, you can't go wrong with a 4th gen and I would advise you to look at 97-99s, like I did. I found that the small differences from 95-96 to 97-99 make it worth it (such as upgraded steering rack, minor appearance changes on the interior, etc). Good luck!
If u looking at a 5spd, inspect the tranny housing for any leaks or wet spots. If u see any leak, that means tranny differential bearing is goin bad and needs a new tranny.
99s arent bad. Jus more stuff to be aware of than compared to other 4th gens.
95-96 arent bad either. jus listen for chain rattle. If u hear any major rattle, walk away. Too expensive to repair
99s arent bad. Jus more stuff to be aware of than compared to other 4th gens.
95-96 arent bad either. jus listen for chain rattle. If u hear any major rattle, walk away. Too expensive to repair
Also I suggest you use www.crazedlist.org instead of just craigslist. Its a multiple location search engine that'll allow you to select all the locations you want... works wonders
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