okay so my car got flooded and the ECU under the dashboard behind the radio got soaked. It got corroded and ruined. soo..got it swapped out and programmed for $400 (still feel like it got ripped), but now ever since the swap/replacement ive had an idling prob where the computer doesnt pick up the idle til about the third or fourth key turn.

I took my car in for diagnosis and the mechanic said everything mechanical checks out. no air probs no fuel or fuel pressure probs nor any electrical probs everything's okay.

so im reallyyy leaning towards they screwed up on the ecu.(cause my car would never have start-up probs til after) and im wondering can i do the ecu change myself..is there any programing needed? or can i just purchase one from here and simply unplug mine and plug in the purchased one?

[[The mechanic says id have to get one from nissan new and have them do it. But thatll be sooo expensive i can already tell.]]

 

Get one from the same model year (97 and 98 may be the same) with the same transmission and the same environmental spec and you should be fine. There is no "programming" to be done on the stock ECU, unless there is something involved with the '99s and NATS. I'm under the impression that's an independent system, however, so I think you should be fine.

 

wait a min fenton man....did u ever replace that FPR???? Its been a minute and u never posted that u changed it. If so i still say replace that before tryin to replace ECU. Most mechanics wdnt even kno to replace it unless they really know maximas.

When was the ECU swap? U reset ECU after the original swap? U check CPS, CKPS sensors? Clean TB? Clean MAF? Check TPS? Clean ground points on the Engine? Replace fuel filter, PCV?

I say reset ECU and start checkin all the above.

 

yeah sorry about not gettin back to you guys about the FPR , but no i didnt.
-how do you reset the ECU?
and the ECU was changed around feb/mar but thats exactly when the prob started so thats why i feel thats what the prob is.

 

NAT's?
i have a 96 auto so i figured getting the 96 auto ecu

 

Yeah NATS, isn't that the inhibitor system that everyone with a 99 b*tches about?

Before you get a new ECU, make sure that the harness that plugs into the ECU is still good. If enough water got up there to ruin your first one, maybe the problem is that the connector is corroded and not that the ECU is bad.

Make sure to get a fed spec ECU if you car is fed spec and vice versa for cali spec if it comes down to replacing the ECU.

 

reset by removing negative lead from battery terminal for 10-15min

 

Don't use the check screw on the ecu ? right,left,right,left

 

ok ill check the connector asap and try the reset too.

fed specs??
and what screw?

 

checkd the connector -ok
did the reset with the neg.battery terminal removal no difference in start up

 

Man, time and time and again, even from the previous thread, change your FPR just like cashoit and I have remembered. If you are still cranking and it turns on and turns right back off, change the FPR already.

 

alright alright stop yelling at me lol
ill change it already but if that dont do it...so help me god lol

 

just showing what the prob is

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lzww9O5PL2A

...sometimes it takes more then 2 key turns

 

Ok I watched the video and have a few things I see here that's not normal. Yeah that jumping up and down is not normal but also your cold start idle is not normal either. You should be at 1300RPM-1500RPM to warm up. You were at 700RPM and barely made it to 1000. After seeing this video, I would still say your FPR needs changing because it should have catch after the first turn you did and also your idle needs to be readjusted.

 

how would i readjust the idle?