Maxima sometimes take two or three time to start.
sorry guys i forgot to mention, the CEL is on for knock sensor and random miss fires, but hell it runs damn good monday through saturday 120 miles a day i never feel the miss fires so i dont know if the knock sensor is throwing a random cold or if it only miss's when i first start it, and it does it no matter if motor is stone cold or warm.
i posted this on yahoo answears and i think this guy is right. hes saying it could be a bad starter and it kinda seems like thats the problem because the motor starts right up it just feels like the starter grabs the flywheel and kills it or doesn't let go of flywheel when i let off key causing that THUD or for it to turn back off and take while to start cause it floods itself maybe....
i think imma pull starter and have it tested.
i think imma pull starter and have it tested.
i posted this on yahoo answears and i think this guy is right. hes saying it could be a bad starter and it kinda seems like thats the problem because the motor starts right up it just feels like the starter grabs the flywheel and kills it or doesn't let go of flywheel when i let off key causing that THUD or for it to turn back off and take while to start cause it floods itself maybe....
i think imma pull starter and have it tested.
i think imma pull starter and have it tested.
OK Columbian, I watched your video and retract all my suggestions. It does sound like spark or fuel. Your starter sound strong but it almost sounds like you are a tooth off, or have a bad sensor somewhere. I would suggest a good scanner or consult to view all the sensors while cranking and running. If you've replaced your sensors look at your harness, pay particular attention in hot or oily areas.
I'm sorry, I meant a tooth off in your timing. You shouldn't need to mess with the starter. cam, crank, MAF, TPS, check all the sensors you can. Rent a FP tester too. Pros use node lights (back probing with an LED) to test for injector signal. Frequency (Htz) setting on your DVOM can be used as well to check injectors.
OK Columbian, I watched your video and retract all my suggestions. It does sound like spark or fuel. Your starter sound strong but it almost sounds like you are a tooth off, or have a bad sensor somewhere. I would suggest a good scanner or consult to view all the sensors while cranking and running. If you've replaced your sensors look at your harness, pay particular attention in hot or oily areas.

See, you even posted in there
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...eak-start.html
Last edited by ColombianMax; Aug 1, 2010 at 11:28 PM.
ok, i get paid tommorow and am ganna pull mu fuel pump and change the pump screen just maybe thats my problem its got lot of miles.
well today i pulled the cam sensor off timing cover and cleaned it it had oil on it but other then that was ok, also i dissconnected the sensor and tried starting it the starter is turning over super fast and strong over n over n over so i doubt thats my problem i cleaned the cam sensor but same problem still their.
any help guys? need to find out what all do i need to check it runs perfect just starting issue cold or warm.
well today i pulled the cam sensor off timing cover and cleaned it it had oil on it but other then that was ok, also i dissconnected the sensor and tried starting it the starter is turning over super fast and strong over n over n over so i doubt thats my problem i cleaned the cam sensor but same problem still their.
any help guys? need to find out what all do i need to check it runs perfect just starting issue cold or warm.
i fixxed crank sensor it was the connector not connected its almost like the timing is off when it abruptly stops after it cranks on or takes long time to start....
well today i pulled the cam sensor off timing cover and cleaned it it had oil on it but other then that was ok, also i dissconnected the sensor and tried starting it the starter is turning over super fast and strong over n over n over so i doubt thats my problem
well today i pulled the cam sensor off timing cover and cleaned it it had oil on it but other then that was ok, also i dissconnected the sensor and tried starting it the starter is turning over super fast and strong over n over n over so i doubt thats my problem
2. When you unplugged the cam sensor it cranked fine, but plugged in it came to the sudden hard stop again? Sound like your mechanically sound, but your igntion is WAY to far advanced. Sparking half way up the intake stroke will make cranking hard.
I'll put my money on cam or crank sensor. But that's just my best guess.
the only code i got is knock sensor and random miss fire. tommorow im buying brand new from NISSAN dealer a knock sensor and a fuel pressure regulator, what do you guys thank bout that? think it may help out?
after that my engine will be in great shape and should see 400 miles to a tank instead of 310.
and i doubt timing is off i had a good mechanic put new water pump in and it ran great for months after that. its almost like i got bad gas.
after that my engine will be in great shape and should see 400 miles to a tank instead of 310.
and i doubt timing is off i had a good mechanic put new water pump in and it ran great for months after that. its almost like i got bad gas.
the only code i got is knock sensor and random miss fire. tommorow im buying brand new from NISSAN dealer a knock sensor and a fuel pressure regulator, what do you guys thank bout that? think it may help out?
after that my engine will be in great shape and should see 400 miles to a tank instead of 310.
and i doubt timing is off i had a good mechanic put new water pump in and it ran great for months after that. its almost like i got bad gas.
after that my engine will be in great shape and should see 400 miles to a tank instead of 310.
and i doubt timing is off i had a good mechanic put new water pump in and it ran great for months after that. its almost like i got bad gas.
im wackomatic with what feels like a 2nd gear shift kit in mornings haha.
anyways wow i feel dumb, my friend hooked me up at autozone i got new knock sensor for 50 bux and a fuel pressure regulator for 30 bux i get home and remove intake and notice theirs a huge crack around where the plastic goes around the throttle body.
so my problem was basicly a vaccum leak lol, im gonna have to buy a new intake or one from junkyard for now i put tape around mine and it starts right up!
and i changed the knock sensor it was easy 5 minutes lol, the car feels alot more powerful in low rpms but not sure if thats cause knock sensor or the intake leak. imma clear codes tommorow and drive all day and see if cel comes back on and ill put a scanner to it
so yea, i bought fuel pressure regulator for notthing lol. .
anyways wow i feel dumb, my friend hooked me up at autozone i got new knock sensor for 50 bux and a fuel pressure regulator for 30 bux i get home and remove intake and notice theirs a huge crack around where the plastic goes around the throttle body.
so my problem was basicly a vaccum leak lol, im gonna have to buy a new intake or one from junkyard for now i put tape around mine and it starts right up!
and i changed the knock sensor it was easy 5 minutes lol, the car feels alot more powerful in low rpms but not sure if thats cause knock sensor or the intake leak. imma clear codes tommorow and drive all day and see if cel comes back on and ill put a scanner to it
so yea, i bought fuel pressure regulator for notthing lol. .
also guys, i was listening and around my IACV theirs a loud whistle sounds just like my air filter breathing i thought it was a huge vaccum leak but i sprayed carb cleaner all around it and idle didnt change...is this normal?
50 bucks for KS? its 12 bucks on ebay for a Korean one which is probably what idiotzone ks is anyway. Well, definitely shame on you into making us all believe you checked all vac hoses and stuff and telling you to get a FPR that you didnt need, return it if you dont need it son
Only time will tell, my cousin has been riding on the $12 knock sensor for 2 months now without a problem and my 97 has had it few days without driving though
my car has been doing that and i have been trying to find an answer to this for the past 2 years. my fuel system is fine, the system is fully pressurized as soon as the pump primes the first time. spark plugs and coils are fine, but it has this starting issue. i have gone through 3 different starters and still the same issue. accept my car eventually came to the point where u would try and start it and when its turning over when the OP describes that thud, in my car it was thud and stop. The car would not crank at all. i would physically have to find away to move the starter by either putting the car in 2nd and letting it roll alittle to move the flywheel and try again OR keep turning the key and it would THUD and stop until it eventually started moving the flywheel again.
It's been said a couple of times but it's so easy that it can be overlooked. Check the throttle body for carbon build up. I have a gmc yukon that's had starting issues for the last year or so, takes 2 or 3 tries to finally get it to crank. I looked into fuel pump, starter, distributor, ground points, everything except for the throttle body. I cleaned the TB on my max the other day and it was so filthy I got thinking, pulled the intake off the yukon, put it back together and it starts first try every time. Really, it's such a simple cleaning issue that it's so easy to overlook and it can only help you. Revs easier and starts every time all for a $5 can of tb cleaner.
it started the hard starts again, check engine light came on for random miss fires and came back to bad crank sensor, i changed it and now starts right up but i still feel slight miss fires or its still me
i drove 52 miles and so far no check engine light but im sure it will come back on.
i drove 52 miles and so far no check engine light but im sure it will come back on.
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