Ignitions Coils
some places will sell you parts that have been returned .
napa tried to do that to me as did oreillys
look for scratches where the two hold down screws attach on the coil top - the two screws have lock washers that bite into the gloss paint when they are installed, if the part has been installed the part will have scratches.
the local oreillys said when I complained OH thats a used part and threw it in the trash can, but a month later the same part was back in their inventory.
the napa part was in a "new" box that had greasy finger prints all over it.
napa tried to do that to me as did oreillys
look for scratches where the two hold down screws attach on the coil top - the two screws have lock washers that bite into the gloss paint when they are installed, if the part has been installed the part will have scratches.
the local oreillys said when I complained OH thats a used part and threw it in the trash can, but a month later the same part was back in their inventory.
the napa part was in a "new" box that had greasy finger prints all over it.
p1320
I had this code p1320 on my 97 max and it gave the car a very rough idle and stuttering during acceleration. The symptoms of this code clearly showed signs of a misfire. So I tested all the coils by disconnecting one at a time but the results were the same for all coils. When I actually checked the coils 2 of them had torn boots at the ends. I went to the junkyard and borrowed
6 coils from an infinity i30 and some other small stuff. I replaced one coil at a time and started the car each time, starting with the coils that had torn boots. It turned out to be the front middle coil. That goes to show you that just because it looks okay doesn't mean it is. I also put dielectric grease on all of them. Also replace the crankshaft positioning sensor and VSS because VSS through a code once in a while and this car is close to 300,000 miles and they look original. The I30 that this stuff came from had a spotless, clean *** engine still in it. Anyway the result is smooth idle in park,reverse, in gear and smooth driving.
6 coils from an infinity i30 and some other small stuff. I replaced one coil at a time and started the car each time, starting with the coils that had torn boots. It turned out to be the front middle coil. That goes to show you that just because it looks okay doesn't mean it is. I also put dielectric grease on all of them. Also replace the crankshaft positioning sensor and VSS because VSS through a code once in a while and this car is close to 300,000 miles and they look original. The I30 that this stuff came from had a spotless, clean *** engine still in it. Anyway the result is smooth idle in park,reverse, in gear and smooth driving.
hey guys im a newbie here. I just purchased a 1997 Maxima GXE 5spd 165k with the check engine light on. The dude told me it was a bad oxygen sensor but thats not the case. It reads a P1320 and P0328 and idles a little rough at times but then clears up and seems to have a lack of power under load. I ordered a knock sensor and now i have to get some coils... can i go aftermarket? i really dont want to drop a bunch of money on oem coils. O reilly quoted me $105 for all 6
hey guys im a newbie here. I just purchased a 1997 Maxima GXE 5spd 165k with the check engine light on. The dude told me it was a bad oxygen sensor but thats not the case. It reads a P1320 and P0328 and idles a little rough at times but then clears up and seems to have a lack of power under load. I ordered a knock sensor and now i have to get some coils... can i go aftermarket? i really dont want to drop a bunch of money on oem coils. O reilly quoted me $105 for all 6
105 for all 6 seems REALLY low they are usually 60-80 each
p1320- has to do with ignition signal
Code: P1320 | Description: Ignition Signal
p0328- isnt found, please check again
if it is coils aftermarket is fine
but you should i figure out your codes and test parts before you start replacing parts
Last edited by smai555; Nov 16, 2011 at 06:01 PM.
i might go with these, read the reviews from people that have purchased them.... http://www.amazon.com/NISSAN-IGNITIO.../dp/B000U9YRLO
neither codes really says that are your coils are bad, i would check your cam and cranks sensors 1st find and download the FSM for procedures on testing
id hate for you to spend 105 on coils that you dont need, especially since one of the cranks sensors is about 100 bucks
id hate for you to spend 105 on coils that you dont need, especially since one of the cranks sensors is about 100 bucks
will do thanks for the info! today i went to put the Max on the road and at the DMV it would not start...i tried everything, all accessories work and i tried jumping it also. I then had it towed to a reputable shop and they told me there was power to the starter, so replace the starter. They could not get it done today so i just popped the clutch and drove it home. The old owner told me this was just replaced a month ago with an advanced auto parts unit. If there is power to it does it have to be the starter? or could it be bad grounds perhaps? (i have read about this before with 4th gens) Regardless, i will take it off the car tomorrow morning and have it tested. Am i on the right track guys?
the autozone starters are usually lifetime warranty but youll need to know what name and phone number the previous owner used
grounds always help i ran one wire from one of the starter bolts directly to the neg
im leaning towards crank sensor (pos) but you should test it its pretty easy to test theres procedures in the FSM youll need a volt meter and a 10mm socket and driver
or you can even pull it out and clean it 1st i hear that helps alot
grounds always help i ran one wire from one of the starter bolts directly to the neg
im leaning towards crank sensor (pos) but you should test it its pretty easy to test theres procedures in the FSM youll need a volt meter and a 10mm socket and driver
or you can even pull it out and clean it 1st i hear that helps alot
The infamous P1320 and P0325 (knock sensor).
Likely a bad ignition coil is causing the P1320 and the P0325 is bad knock sensor which will not by itself cause the SES light to come on.
Look at all of your ignition coils. Most aftermarket brands are now made in China or Poland. Such is the case with NAPA and BWD (boxed in a purple and yellow box). I have two 4th gen maximas and can make either one throw the P1320 with a "bastxxd" coil.
I was able to locate a BWD (blue box) which had a repackaged Hanshin coil in it. The UPC on the BWD box indicated the item was made in Japan !!! The coil had all Hinshin markings as the OE coils and a foil label marking of MCP-1351 on it. In fact the Nissan emblem have scratched off with an exacto knife or die grinder.....You'll find hours of reading on this forum and other sites about this problem.......don't over analyze it, just look at all six coils and make sure they are "Nissan" coils with Hanshin part numbers on them........you'll be glad you did !!
Likely a bad ignition coil is causing the P1320 and the P0325 is bad knock sensor which will not by itself cause the SES light to come on.
Look at all of your ignition coils. Most aftermarket brands are now made in China or Poland. Such is the case with NAPA and BWD (boxed in a purple and yellow box). I have two 4th gen maximas and can make either one throw the P1320 with a "bastxxd" coil.
I was able to locate a BWD (blue box) which had a repackaged Hanshin coil in it. The UPC on the BWD box indicated the item was made in Japan !!! The coil had all Hinshin markings as the OE coils and a foil label marking of MCP-1351 on it. In fact the Nissan emblem have scratched off with an exacto knife or die grinder.....You'll find hours of reading on this forum and other sites about this problem.......don't over analyze it, just look at all six coils and make sure they are "Nissan" coils with Hanshin part numbers on them........you'll be glad you did !!
thank you so much guys for all the help. I am going out to remove the starter now in this cold *** weather. I have the dudes name and phone # so it should go smooth. I will have it bench tested to see if it works and look for signs of being used previously, though we all know this is no guarantee unfortunately. While im in there im going to clean all the grounds, clean the battery terminals and run a new ground wire. Ill keep you updated thanks!
Brought the old starter in and it turns out the bendix was stuck and would bind up. They gave me a new one free of charge that bench tested in good working order. Installed new starter, cleaned all grounds/MAF sensor/ TB / battery terminals and it works like a charm
. Next step; find crank sensor/clean and install new plugs and coils.....ill be back with an update later today
. Next step; find crank sensor/clean and install new plugs and coils.....ill be back with an update later today
Replaced the coolant, changed thermostat, changed sway bar end-links, cleaned cam sensor and cleaned crank sensor. These cars are really easy to work on! This is my first Nissan, was a diehard Honda fan. After the sensors were clean the car starts soooooooooo much smoother/quicker. It was stumbling and chugging upon start-up before they were cleaned. I cannot believe the metal shavings and grease that was caked on the crank sensor!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
TallTom
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
57
Oct 14, 2025 05:16 PM
jmlee44
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
8
Oct 2, 2022 02:13 PM
AaronL
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
15
Aug 8, 2020 10:31 AM



