does my car sit too High? pic.
08-09-2010, 10:50 PM
#41
And what question did you think you were really answering?? Let the back peddling begin... 
And I do know what Im talking about because I do have that setup on my car and I can tell the difference. Maybe the OP may not have a lot of cash..So in a way it would help out a little. Not everyone on here has it like that..It could be a simple setup while the OP saves up for what he really wants..
He's just getting info..And I dont know if he lives in the city or suburbs so in some cases its good and some its not. And it also depends on how you drive.
Originally posted by TravisCadello 
where could i buy a rear sway bar? mine doesnt have one, and damn rims will make it stiffer?
i was thinking about paying a shop to compress my stock springs and cut a coil or two off them for now, it will be a while till i get the exact set up i want.
where could i buy a rear sway bar? mine doesnt have one, and damn rims will make it stiffer?i was thinking about paying a shop to compress my stock springs and cut a coil or two off them for now, it will be a while till i get the exact set up i want.
The answer to your question the rims dont make the ride stiffer. A strut bar (strut tower bar/brace) is designed to reduce this strut tower flex by tying two parallel strut towers together. This transmits the load of each strut tower during cornering via tension and compression of the strut bar which shares the load between both towers and reduces chassis flex., a sway bar increases the suspension's roll stiffness—its resistance to roll in turns, independent of its spring rate in the vertical direction.
And do not cut or compress the springs. Its dangerous to do that, you'll destroy your struts, bend the spring, plus destroy other suspension and steering components as well. Do it safe get lowering springs and a performance strut and you'll be good.
And how do I know this, I live in NYC and I see many people cut corners and seen their rides pay for what they did. Play it safe and do it the right way.
If you were to get a used SE suspension and change the struts, plus you have the RSB and FTB then you'll have a better ride that will hold you until you get the lowering springs. So thats an option.
08-10-2010, 01:48 AM
#42
Originally Posted by K-Ryder
"Im guessing you're not an SE, and while you're at it, get a tower bar and a rear sway bar if you want a stiffer ride..The reason why its soft is because you have 16's..If you have 17's or 18's you'll wont have so much bouncy anymore.."
BTW, why did you delete your original post back on page 1?? Did I really embarrass you that much by addressing your post?
Again, what question did you really think you were answering the first time around??
And maybe he does have a lot of cash? You're just babbling now....
What would help a little? And help with what exactly? The front strut tower bar and rear sway bar you originally recommended? or 17 or 18" rims to get rid of the "bouncy ride"?? LOL or are you actually trying to address his follow up question? Can you be any more vague?
Not everyone has "it" like what exactly?
Originally Posted by K-Ryder
"Im guessing you're not an SE, and while you're at it, get a tower bar and a rear sway bar if you want a stiffer ride..The reason why its soft is because you have 16's..If you have 17's or 18's you'll wont have so much bouncy anymore.."
And here's the best part.
You claim you know what you are talking about, but then go and copy and paste the following information (extremely poorly worded btw) from Wikipedia!!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Strut_bar
The answer to your question the rims dont make the ride stiffer. A strut bar (strut tower bar/brace) is designed to reduce this strut tower flex by tying two parallel strut towers together. This transmits the load of each strut tower during cornering via tension and compression of the strut bar which shares the load between both towers and reduces chassis flex., a sway bar increases the suspension's roll stiffness—its resistance to roll in turns, independent of its spring rate in the vertical direction.
"With a MacPherson strut suspension system where the spring and shock absorber are combined in the one suspension unit, the entire vertical suspension load is transmitted to the top of the vehicle's strut tower, unlike a double wishbone suspension where the spring and shock absorber may share the load separately. In general terms, a strut tower in a monocoque chassis is a reinforced portion of the inner wheel well and is not necessarily directly connected to the main chassis rails. For this reason there is inherent flex within the strut towers relative to the chassis rails.
A strut bar is designed to reduce this strut tower flex by tying two parallel strut towers together. This transmits the load of each strut tower during cornering via tension and compression of the strut bar which shares the load between both towers and reduces chassis flex.
On the Saab Sonett mk2 and mk3 the overflow container for the cooling system doubles as a strut bar. The longnose version of the Saab 96 also came with a factory mounted strut bar. This despite that both cars used double wishbone suspension."
Look familiar K-Ryder??
I think I've made my point here.....
Carry on...back to our regularly scheduled program.
08-10-2010, 02:02 AM
#43
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Illinois
Posts: 62
fried.
and, regarding op's topic...i don't know a ton about this but if i were you i would get a slight drop first. to be honest i'm ok with the stock SE rims for now and imo, at least for my car, a drop would do more for the looks than rims would...of course so would lip/new bumper/etc...and i wouldn't mind getting myself a new paint job. but i digress...so ya if i had to pick an order of things, it would probably go drop, then maybe get some tower braces/rear bar, and then rims. but whatever.
and, regarding op's topic...i don't know a ton about this but if i were you i would get a slight drop first. to be honest i'm ok with the stock SE rims for now and imo, at least for my car, a drop would do more for the looks than rims would...of course so would lip/new bumper/etc...and i wouldn't mind getting myself a new paint job. but i digress...so ya if i had to pick an order of things, it would probably go drop, then maybe get some tower braces/rear bar, and then rims. but whatever.
Last edited by aterfy27; 08-10-2010 at 02:05 AM.
08-10-2010, 08:44 AM
#45
Im trying to get other oppions on what rims would look good on my ride and what kind of drop, should i throw skinny tires on these rims and drop it 2 inch all around or get 18s and small drop?
these are 16 inch rims wrapped in brand new Michelin 215/50 front and 215/55 rear.
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/l...053fe965aa.jpg
these are 16 inch rims wrapped in brand new Michelin 215/50 front and 215/55 rear.
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/l...053fe965aa.jpg
08-10-2010, 01:47 PM
#46
08-10-2010, 05:00 PM
#47
08-10-2010, 05:14 PM
#48
What...no witty comeback? no rebuttal?? Or do you need time to Google a good comeback so you can copy and paste that too?? Thanks for playin' though!!
08-10-2010, 05:26 PM
#49
fockers....
lol
08-10-2010, 07:06 PM
#51
Licensed to Spell
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Murrieta (southern California)
Posts: 4,521
Im trying to get other oppions on what rims would look good on my ride and what kind of drop, should i throw skinny tires on these rims and drop it 2 inch all around or get 18s and small drop?
these are 16 inch rims wrapped in brand new Michelin 215/50 front and 215/55 rear.
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/l...053fe965aa.jpg
these are 16 inch rims wrapped in brand new Michelin 215/50 front and 215/55 rear.
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/l...053fe965aa.jpg
Your rim size and a drop are completely two separate issues. If you want to eliminate the OEM wheel gap, your car will need to be lowered, period, regardless of whether you have 16"s or 18"s (or 15"s or 19"s, etc.). The amount of drop does not change depending on whether you have 16" wheels or 18" wheels. The outside diameter of your total wheel (rims and tires) should always be the same as OEM (you can find wheel/tire calculators on the web if you need help). So, no, please do not "throw skinny tires" on your 16"s. In fact, it sounds like your 215/50 front and 215/55 rear (why the difference anyway??) is not maintaining the OEM outside diameter. I forget what the OEM tire size is for 16". Probably 215/55?
08-10-2010, 08:22 PM
#52
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,432
what are some good springs for a good budget price stiff ones? and ill look into the strut bar. for now i just dont like feeling soft springs and it feels like that cause their so big. if i cut them it would be much better but then bouncy. and i drive slow and corner slow i dont care about overall performance just looks. as long as it looks cleaner cause it already runs damn good and will give new malibus,impalas and jettas a good oll spankin speacilly high end when they stop at 110mph and i keep goin.
08-21-2010, 01:13 PM
#55
Licensed to Spell
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Murrieta (southern California)
Posts: 4,521
what are some good springs for a good budget price stiff ones? and ill look into the strut bar. for now i just dont like feeling soft springs and it feels like that cause their so big. if i cut them it would be much better but then bouncy. and i drive slow and corner slow i dont care about overall performance just looks. as long as it looks cleaner cause it already runs damn good and will give new malibus,impalas and jettas a good oll spankin speacilly high end when they stop at 110mph and i keep goin.
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