Troubleshooting Aux Input
Troubleshooting Aux Input
Hello again all--Here looking for some help with the aux input install described in the how-to sticky. I looked through all of it and couldn't really figure out where i went wrong. So here is what i've got:
1. I am pretty sure i installed the switch right (SPST on/off mini switch), when i switch it the display does read 'AUX'. One thing i am not sure of--when i go to aux mode then turn the switch back off, it shuts off my headunit. The HU powers up fine in either position so i don't know if this is going to affect functionality or if it's just a minor annoyance.
2. Once switched on i get no sound. I have tried three different aux cords which leads me to believe it is a wiring issue with my 1/8th inch jack.
I followed the instructions to wire the jack in the stickies, however one of the diagrams were missing so i had to guess for which one i wired R+, L+, R- and L- to. I believe it said R+ and L+ go to the tip and ring, respectively, and the R- and L- both go to the sleeve. Correct me if i am wrong on this one. I may have simply mixed up tip/ring on the jack... However what i believe is most likely is that i didn't get the wiring correct on the board. I'll post a picture showing where i wired each one too, and if someone can tell me what's right or wrong about it that would be great.
1. I am pretty sure i installed the switch right (SPST on/off mini switch), when i switch it the display does read 'AUX'. One thing i am not sure of--when i go to aux mode then turn the switch back off, it shuts off my headunit. The HU powers up fine in either position so i don't know if this is going to affect functionality or if it's just a minor annoyance.
2. Once switched on i get no sound. I have tried three different aux cords which leads me to believe it is a wiring issue with my 1/8th inch jack.
I followed the instructions to wire the jack in the stickies, however one of the diagrams were missing so i had to guess for which one i wired R+, L+, R- and L- to. I believe it said R+ and L+ go to the tip and ring, respectively, and the R- and L- both go to the sleeve. Correct me if i am wrong on this one. I may have simply mixed up tip/ring on the jack... However what i believe is most likely is that i didn't get the wiring correct on the board. I'll post a picture showing where i wired each one too, and if someone can tell me what's right or wrong about it that would be great.
http://forums.maxima.org/audio-elect...ml#post3354806
nope, the tutorial was actually written on a 95.... however whenever i click on the link it automatically takes me about halfway down the page which does show instructions for 97-98. perhaps that's what happened to you. But yeah i know that it works for both, just different ways of wiring...
nope, the tutorial was actually written on a 95.... however whenever i click on the link it automatically takes me about halfway down the page which does show instructions for 97-98. perhaps that's what happened to you. But yeah i know that it works for both, just different ways of wiring...
Another thing: I want a sneaky place to put the jack/switch, or at least not right up on the faceplate or something. I saw someone did it in the coin holders, how does one get those out to get at them? Or i thought maybe putting it in the pop-out ashtray. Think that would work out ok? Any other suggested places (preferably somewhere that isn't terribly difficult to get at)
Another thing: I want a sneaky place to put the jack/switch, or at least not right up on the faceplate or something. I saw someone did it in the coin holders, how does one get those out to get at them? Or i thought maybe putting it in the pop-out ashtray. Think that would work out ok? Any other suggested places (preferably somewhere that isn't terribly difficult to get at)
A stereo jack should be wired:
tip - left channel - L+
ring - right channel - R+
sleeve - common - L-, R-
It does work, and if you are getting you head unit to say "AUX", you need to double check the connections on the board. The head unit will power off when you take it out of aux mode.
Now the fun starts:
The output from the iPod is single ended, the input to your Bose unit is differential. End result, your iPod will not be as loud as it should be. The Bose unit will be expecting the second half of the signal at L- and R-, but instead will only see a ground reference from the iPod. The proper way to go about this is to convert the single ended signal to a differential one.
Honestly, though, I'd wire it up as you had planned and once you get it working, see how loud it is and go from there.
I know you guys like dr. frankenstein'ing your cars...I do too. But this just seems like a waste of time to me. I bought an eclipse double din from ebay (sonicelectronix) for $119 shipped with a free harness and antenna adapter. It works fine with my bose system (and with non bose), plus it doesn't have any markings on it and looks like a factory radio. It has an 3.5mm jack and usb input on the front plus for $119 came packaged with the direct ipod cable that connects in back and I ran to the glove box. Ipod charging, better sound quality, and no disassembling the stock radio required. I like to save money and do things like this to but I just don't see the point in this mod when it leaves you with a 11-15 yr old radio.
ajm--I'll go out and re-do my connections later today. So hey, how does one go about converting a single-ended signal into a differential one? Also i had not planned on using this exclusively with ipod, i was thinking make up some playlists on my laptop and hook up the headphone port to the aux. Think this would work normally? (Edit)--Hey if i were to want to put my jack in the console, how can you remove it or at least get enough out of it to work on it?
beegeezy--not a bad idea, but i am dirt poor haha and this was basically free...all i had to pay for was a switch and a jack...
beegeezy--not a bad idea, but i am dirt poor haha and this was basically free...all i had to pay for was a switch and a jack...
Last edited by aterfy27; Aug 10, 2010 at 10:19 AM.
I know you guys like dr. frankenstein'ing your cars...I do too. But this just seems like a waste of time to me. I bought an eclipse double din from ebay (sonicelectronix) for $119 shipped with a free harness and antenna adapter. It works fine with my bose system (and with non bose), plus it doesn't have any markings on it and looks like a factory radio. It has an 3.5mm jack and usb input on the front plus for $119 came packaged with the direct ipod cable that connects in back and I ran to the glove box. Ipod charging, better sound quality, and no disassembling the stock radio required. I like to save money and do things like this to but I just don't see the point in this mod when it leaves you with a 11-15 yr old radio.
Yes it sounds better. Plus it is more adjustable. But it is fairly plain looking, which I like because the hoodlums don't know that it's aftermarket. Eclipse's parent company, Fujitsu-ten, makes the factory radios in Toyota vehicles. This is basically a factory style replacement with some upgrades.
aterfy27, I completely understand needing to work on the cheap. Free or almost free is great for mods. I thought you might like this rather cheap suggestion but I understand if you don't have the coin right now.
Ya man and to be honest, my soldering gun is terribly weak so i don't expect my solder connections to hold up for too incredibly long, so i'll probably end up buying something like that anyways haha. Thanks for the suggestion.
Ipod or laptop, it's still the same signal.
I designed a circuit a while back for my car to convert single ended to differential using four op-amps, but never built it. I could dig it up and scan it for you if you'd like.
Alternatively, maybe you could just get a headphone amplifier.
The main problem here is the the single ended signal is only half of the differential signal in terms of voltage. You would probably want to use a small resistor (around 32 ohms) on the output of the headphone amplifier for each channel to mimic the load an actual set of head phones would pu on the amplifier.
To put the jack in the console, I would drill a hole and feed the wire down through it to the head unit. Or you could by a jack with panel mounting, and solder wire to the back of it. If you are referring to how to remove the console, check the FSM.
I designed a circuit a while back for my car to convert single ended to differential using four op-amps, but never built it. I could dig it up and scan it for you if you'd like.
Alternatively, maybe you could just get a headphone amplifier.
The main problem here is the the single ended signal is only half of the differential signal in terms of voltage. You would probably want to use a small resistor (around 32 ohms) on the output of the headphone amplifier for each channel to mimic the load an actual set of head phones would pu on the amplifier.
To put the jack in the console, I would drill a hole and feed the wire down through it to the head unit. Or you could by a jack with panel mounting, and solder wire to the back of it. If you are referring to how to remove the console, check the FSM.
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