I need my two lower control arms w/ ball joints replaced. Took it to an alignment place today and that's what they said I needed to do before they can do the alignment.

Side note: the reason I took it to them in the first place was because the inner tread on my front tires (replaced just last year) wore out extremely fast and as a result both tires had to be replaced last week when I brought it in to Discount Tire to get them balanced and rotated. They said it was because my alignment is off, which makes sense...the ride would get bumpy/vibratey over 60 mph.

Anyways, I'm wondering if there's anyone that has experience with doing this install. The alignment place wants to charge me 230 for the control arms/ball joints and 207 for the replacement. And like any person with a conscience, I'm trying to save a little money here! I researched a little online and looks like theres some decent tutorials on how to do this:

http://www.ehow.com/how_5460532_repl...an-maxima.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PjkfDp8mLE

I have all the tools to do the job except for a lift. Although I may have a friend of a friend who can provide that, I'll have to see. Is there anyone out there that can give me some good advice or lend a helping hand (I'm in the San Diego area)?

I also looked into the cost of the control arms and found the link below. If anyone knows of any other good sites/places to look at (i.e. cheaper prices or more importantly better quality parts and service that won't burn a hole in my wallet) let me know!

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/mm...arm~parts.html

Thanks!

 

Rockauto is a good site so is ebay.

As far as the replacement there are lots of tutorials on you tube on how to do so.I would keep the 230 and make some groceries with that.I got a jack and some jackstands and some ramps.

Between youtube and maxima.org you can do it yourself.Assuming you have some basic tools.

 

If you search for "discount for rock auto" you can sometimes find discount codes for RockAuto.

I am thinking of doing
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
to mine??
S

 

I've replaced suspension parts on many of my cars and paid the price for poorly designed (or shall I say copied) parts that you buy cheaply on-line.

You can save some bucks up front but they often do not fit properly, are not built as strong, and have cheap bushings that squeak after you install them and wear out quickly.

If there is anything you don't want too have cheap stuff in replacement, it's your suspension and steering components.
Cheap ball joints are just that.

Save your money by doing the work yourself if you can and purchase the O.E. parts if at all possible. Make sure they match the O.E. part numbers and are in the box/bag they should be.

 

I couldnt see the price but I paid 140 for lca, sway link, inner rod, outer rod. The lca comes with the brand new ball joints already I paid for everything maybe for like 145 or so. I did the job myself and it took me two days because I have school at night from 6 to 10. But i suggest you do it yourself and not the shop that is a lot of money.

 

Was that ~$145 for both sides or just one?

 

I hear ya back2basics. There's some pretty cheap crappy stuff out there.

So I found out my Maxima's Haynes Repair Manual has some good step by step directions for this. Seems pretty straightforward. Will look for OEM parts this weekend and hopefully work on it next weekend. But CRAP, thats Labor Day weekend! lol

 

Yes I paid 154 now that i remember. I got both control arms with new bushings with the ball joint on it already. Both sway links with the bushings. Both outer rods and both inner rods. Everything with bolts, bushings, and cotter pins of course. All oem parts.

 

Hell spend some of that $230 for a jack and some jack stands.

 

Anyone tried the AZ control arms? Are they any good??

 

I just ordered 2 moog ball joints and an energy suspension control arm bushing kit and I'll be installing them next week once they arrive. From what I understand, the hardest part is breaking loose the 36mm axle nut. After that, as long as you have rented an Autozone ball joint press, the install seems pretty straight forward. This way I also get to keep the oem control arms and upgrade the bushings because after 186k they are shot.

total cost (including a 36mm impact socket) - $100.36 shipped from amazon

up next - tie rods and after that the entire suspension is rebuilt - lowering springs, shocks, sway bar bushings, plus what i just mentioned - for under $600 in parts and $250 in tools from harbor freight.

 

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/348507/15

was very helpful.

 

Alright so I just ordered the OEM part from nissanpartsconnection.com for 166 (checked with the mechanic again and found out I only need the right hand one replaced, not both - good thing I checked!!!). So 166 plus shipping which will be refunded anyways...thats alot better than 230! And they're located very close to me so although I do have to wait for it to get shipped to them, I can go pick it up when they get it. Damn...why didn't I do this at the beginning of the week? Stupid job takes up too much of my time. :P

Thanks for everyone's input/advice!

 

So the cost after tax for the OEM control arm from nissanpartsconnection.com was about $180 and I installed it with the help of a friend who owns a motorcycle shop, plus the help of Haynes Repair Manual for '93-'04 Maximas. Two jacks were needed. It would have helped immensely to have a press though. It took us about 2-3 hours to take off the main bushing. We had to use a sawzaw to cut through the metal and rubber until we could peel the thing off. There was no other way to do it, the dissimilar metals were pretty much glued together. You'll know what I'm talking about if you try to do the replacement without a press. Hell, the press might even have had a hard time with it! But all in all, it was a success, seeing that I saved over $200 in parts and labor costs and after we were done my friend's neighbor auto mechanic did an alignment for me for a measly $30. As Borat would say, GREAT SUCCESS!!

 

Are you referring to the pin bushing?

When I did it I used a torch to fry the bushing. This allowed me to remove the pin from the arm. However the inner bushing sleeve was still fused to the pin. To remove it I just pounded the sleeve against the flat portion of a vice. Half a dozen whacks was enough to get separation. A couple dozen more and the sleeve flew off.