Redline Maxima

iTrader: (10)

As we all know, there is no way to make our back seats fold down. Here is an option to make it happen.

With MAXUS scheduled to be in Central Florida next year, I felt that I needed to step my game up on the interior if I plan to enter any car shows at the event. I didn't take detailed pics but you will get the idea. I went to the local junkyard where they had a 2000 I30. I got the backseat for $30! That was a steal to me so I made sure to grab it. On to the pics...

I started taking the backseat and metal bracket out of my car, this is what it looked like when all out:


You will need to remove those 3 hinge brackets that the back rest attaches to. I used a dremel and was able to get them off. Here is what it looks like:


Now put the new metal bracket on. You can reuse the stock holes on the very bottom. For the other holes you will need to drill new ones in order to attach the bolts. You don't need to attach all the bolts, just enough so that its on there solid:


Now put the bench seat on first. They clip right into the stock mounting tabs. Then put the sides for the back rest on. This is what it should look like:




Now with that in place, you can start putting the back rest parts on, i started with the single seat:




Then I put the other piece on:




And now for what you have been waiting for, THEY FOLD DOWN!!!


This is with the finished plastic trims on:


Access from the trunk:


And there you have it. Took me a total of about 2 hours to fit them in there. Seats are a nice and snug fit, comfortable and very functional.

BTW does anyone else have these in their 4th gen or is this a first? All comments and questions welcome.

95Maxed

Yet ANOTHER thing for us to drool over at the monthly CFL meets. Looks so good Lav, good job

Idrivea98Maxima

iTrader: (1)

wow this is a very reasonable mod. I say this goes in the how to's!

K-Ryder

iTrader: (1)

You've given me yet another chance to upgrade my interior. For the rears. Yes, Now my list is complete. All I gotta do is change my carpet and Im set.

beegeezy

iTrader: (3)

I'm confused. So are the latches there to hold the back of the seat up or are they just laying there?

najee1062

Nice Job for fold down rear seats... Better than the other option of folding up. Definitely needs to be in the How To's section

tsheffler

iTrader: (3)

nice man looks great!....probably makes for an awesome sounding sound system...*specially if you had a sub or 2*

schmellyfart

iTrader: (46)

I love it! I suppose this means the 5th gen seats will fit as well.
The seats look uneven when they are folded down..

mista0406

iTrader: (22)

Great mod man as everyone has said definitly needs to be in the how to's nicely done also very clean install

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

You sir, beat me to this. I recently pulled a 2000 I30 interior from the JY for my buddy's 2000 Maxima and we have his spare set to mess with but I've been so busy lately. I knew it would work though, I'm glad someone did this!

99BlackMaxMS

iTrader: (85)

Nice writeup man, I have always wondered if the 5th gens would fold if you modded them to fit. How are the seats locked in though? Using the 5th gen brackets? Nonetheless, nice job, it looks great!

tigersharkdude

iTrader: (20)

My question for you is: do you think you could put some tilting headrests from a mid-late 90's Q on those back seats? They would be much shorter than those

OneFastStanza

iTrader: (4)

Very nice mod. Adds a little more utility to the Max for me which is good thing

ptatohed

iTrader: (12)

Very, very nice. Congrats. Now you'll have to get some black leather front seats And you should probably ditch the rear STB too.
So that the Infiniti logo is not there, could we use 5th gen Maxima seats (I can't remember if the 5th gen Maxi seats fold down)?

A few questions. Why do you need the I30 metal plate? Does the seat attach to it somehow? Or maybe it is for the plastic trim? How does the seat lock/latch when in the up position? Where is the actual hinge? Do you have to move the front seats way up in order to fold the rear seat flat?

SiathLinux

That's really a cool mod - I've got 'other' plans for my back seat area...

Quickywd01

iTrader: (16)

The more bracing the better, no?

ptatohed

iTrader: (12)

I'm not sure what you are asking about/referring to.

VQ'rInWLA

iTrader: (83)

^ Think hes referring to the RSTB.

OP: Nice mod and great how to. Looking great! Now I wanna find out if my 1st gen I's back seats fold down . If not Ill be sourcing a 2nd gen I back seat and hook it up as well.

Redline Maxima

iTrader: (10)

well i see we have a hit here, lol. thanks for the feedback everyone. now the way i mounted it isn't 100% the way its on the I30. on the I30 there are 2 latches where the back rest goes into when it is upright and there are brackets on the lower end where the swiveling bracket connects to. the way i described the install works just fine. i have the latches but for how snug the fit is they are not need.

either way in the I30 when you pull the switch on the seat to fold them down you still have to pull them loose manually and fold them down. that is why i didn't bother with the latches. i have done some aggresive driving with the seats in and trust me they dont go anywhere.

Redline Maxima

iTrader: (10)

thanks man, your car is coming along nicely...


there are latches but you don't need them for the install. the seats are on nice and snug so they won't pop out of place.

thanks dude. its crazy how exact the fit is. once i dremeled off the stock hinges i was like theres no turning back, these are going to fit one way or the other, lol. i have the brackets and know how to mount them but they really aren't needed. i may do this at a later date. i do not have the mounts for the swiveling brack to bolt onto, those were welded onto the I30.

maybe they will fit. i can tell you that the front head rests don't fit on my stock front seats. also the head rests on the back seat can go lower, its not all the way down in the pic.

ah the man that started it all, lol. i don't know if to get g35 seats to match or 350z seats. i am not sure which one has better support. it also depends on the price as i paid only $30 for this.

you need the metal plate because part of the seat bolts down to it. also the edges are much smoother so stuff won't get damaged easily when you slide them thru and the plastic mounts to it so it looks cleaner. like i said above adding the latch would be a personaly preference, but i guarantee they are not needed. the front seats don't have to be moved at all, i just had them all the way up for extra room to work.

oh yea like what?

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

i've never needed to fold down the rear seat, i mean, my amp is attached to it and also covers the hole where the armrest is. plus my sub sits right in the middle of the trunk, if only you came up with this sooner, damn u!!!

JtzMax

iTrader: (5)

I dig it!!!! Very nice install, clean and looks sharp! I agree with the above about the 'Infin' badging, I bet you could get a shop to redo that section with clean leather or taylored to what ever you might want for not too much. If it's that important I mean.

All together, very nice job!

Redline Maxima

iTrader: (10)

Thanks. I guess it would be personal preference in regards to the badging on the seat. Personally i don't mind it. I would like to put either G35 seats in the front to match or 350z seats, it depends on which one gives better support and also price.

max_dreamer

iTrader: (2)

hella nice dude! i guess i know what im doing to the rears now!

you know if they had any perf'd black leather seats in the i30? this would work nicely with the g37 seats ive got and g35 wheels...

dizzle209

Looks good. 10/10

I'm heaps jealous man.

myblzurchn

I cant believe that those seats were only $30, thats such a steal of a deal. And they look fantastic installed. When you get the new front seats it will be a thing of beauty!

jefforai

sick mod, im goin to try and it whenever i have time and post the before and after

old but good GLE

Wow I must say that is a very nice mod! Something that should have been done from the factory for sure. The useless 1 foot pass through is a joke. I would be concered tho in a collision if the rear seats arent latched they will certainly collapse...just a thought.

Also since no one has responded to my questions in the newbie post I will try it here to see if I can get some feedback. Sorry dont mean to hijack the thread but I am getting nowhere in the newbie section since i dont have 15 posts.

I just recently picked up a 97 GLE with 93k on it. I have just finished changing all the struts on it and will be replacing the tires on it soon as well. I do have a few questions and would like everyones opinion. I am thinking of doing Kumho Ecsta asx or lx platinum tires and wondering if anyone else has used them before. Keep in mind this is just a daily driver and will always be 100% stock as it is for my wife and kid. Also what grade of fuel do you guys use? The previous owner always used premo and full synthetic oil. I do see that it does say premium is recommended but does the pcm retard the timing if I just run regular or am I going to get knock? Is there a colder range spark plug I can run to help with that or what is the best plugs for these cars?

Another issue that I believe is fairly minor at this point is that from time to time it will have a longer than normal crank before starting. It always starts and doesnt miss or run rough anything but I was wondering if that is a common problem and if there is a simple repair. I will start simple and just clean the throttle body and decarb it. I know the newer models are notorious for those crank sensors as well.

Another minor annoyance is the clock display. It does not hold time and will intermitedly fade in and out and flicker. Im guessing its just a bad display but was wondering if there is a common fix for a poor ground or bad connection ect..

Also what is the best weight oil to run in the 3.0 engine?

How do you program the homelink?

How do you program a new (used) key fob?

iMACKZ

wowwww... goood fcukingg ****t... i gotta go get me summm 2000 i30 seats

El_BoriMax

iTrader: (7)

I have some front and rear 2000 i30 seats. IF you want pictures email me at e.a.aponte@gmail.com I have them for sale at 300 plus shipping. They are almost new. I say they are 95% good. Thanks.

pavelsmax

iTrader: (12)

30 bucks total for all that? Jealous doesn't describe how I feel!!! Great work

bobflood

I have a 97 SE that I bought in 2006 with 130K miles; now has just over 205K miles. Here are my thoughts:
- I have never used anything but regular 87 octane with no problem.
- I use the factory recommended plugs
- I use 5W30 oil; whatever is on sale; change every 5K miles.
- Had the same issue with cranking after a couple of years; kept getting worse. Finally cured it early this year with new crankshaft sensor on left front of engine where engine and tranny mate.
- Replaced all four struts with Monroe Quikstruts; they work for me.
- Homelink instructions from pg 1-25-26 of Owner's Manual

1. Test the Integrated HomeLink Transmitter
by pressing any button. The red indicator
light should come on. If you have previously
programmed a button proceed to step 3.
2. Clear all channels on the Integrated
HomeLink Transmitter by holding down
both outside buttons (#1 & #3) until the red
light begins to flash rapidly (approximately
20 seconds). Then release both buttons.
3. Select which of the three Integrated
HomeLink Transmitter buttons you want to
program.
4. Hold your hand-held transmitter against the
bottom surface of the Integrated HomeLink
Transmitter so that you can still see the
red indicator light.
5. Press the desired button until the red indicator
light flashes slowly. Do not release
the button. Continue holding and press the
hand-held transmitter button through step
6.
6. Hold down both buttons until the
red indicator light on the Integrated
HomeLink Transmitter flashes rapidly
(This may take 1-90 seconds). Then release
both buttons. The rapid flashing
means that the transmitter has been successfully
programmed to match your handheld
transmitter. You can now use the
Integrated HomeLink Transmitter instead

of your hand-held transmitter.

ROLLING CODES (If so equipped)

If your hand held transmitter appears to train to
the HomeLink Transmitter, but does not open
your garage door, and your garage door
opener was manufactured after 1995, your
garage door opener may have a “Code Protected”
or “Rolling Code” feature. This type of
system will change the “code” of your garage
door opener every time you open or close your
garage door.
To determine if you have one of these systems,
depress the button on the HomeLink
Transmitter that you have just programmed. If
the LED on the HomeLink Transmitter
flashes rapidly for 1 to 2 seconds, then remains
on, your garage door opener has a
rolling code system.
To operate your “Rolling Code” garage door
opener from your HomeLink Transmitter, follow
these steps:
1. Program your hand held transmitter to the
HomeLink Transmitter by following the
procedures outlined above (if not yet programmed).
2. Program your garage door opener receiver
to recognize your HomeLink Transmitter
(The HomeLink Transmitter follows the
same procedure to train to the receiver as
your hand held transmitter did when it was
first installed):
a) Remove the cover panel from your garage
door opener receiver. The receiver
should be located by the garage door
opener motor.
b) Locate the training button on the garage
door opener receiver. The exact location
and color of the button may vary by
garage door opener brand. If you have
difficulty locating the training button, reference
your garage door opener
manual. If you have difficulty programming

your garage door opener equipped

with a rolling code system to recognize
the HomeLink Transmitter with the
“Rolling Code” feature, call NISSAN
Consumer Affairs Department.
c) Press the training button on the garage
door opener receiver for 1 to 2 seconds.
d) Return to the HomeLink Transmitter in
the vehicle, and depress the programmed
HomeLink button for the duration
of the fast blink on the HomeLink
Transmitter (1 to 2 seconds). Release
the button, and re-press to confirm that
the system has trained.
e) Your garage door opener should now
recognize your HomeLink Transmitter.
You may use either your HomeLink
Transmitter or your original hand held
transmitter to open your garage door.

CLEARING THE PROGRAMMING
INFORMATION

Should you sell your vehicle, be sure to clear
the channels of the Integrated HomeLink
Transmitter. To clear the channels, simultaneously
hold down the outside two buttons (#1
& #3) until the red indicator light begins to flash
rapidly (approximately 20 seconds). This will
clear all three buttons. Individual buttons cannot
be cleared, but can be reprogrammed at
any time by following the programming procedures
described above.

IF YOUR VEHICLE IS EVER
STOLEN

If your vehicle has been stolen, you should
change the codes of any device that
was programmed into the Integrated
HomeLink Transmitter as soon as possible.
Consult the owners manual of each device, or

call the manufacturer or dealer of those devices
If you PM me, I can send you a PDF of the Owner's Manual.
- Don't know how to do new fob - manual says to consult dealer.
- don't know about clock.
These are great cars! good luck w yours.

JagerBlunt

iTrader: (1)

is there a mod like this for the 3rd gen? If not at least an infinity shell that the leather seats will swap over

fignewtin88

nice now im gonna hit up the junk yard and look for seats

ptatohed

iTrader: (12)

Uh............. color?

maxispeed

im slightly confused on what u dremeled off? anyway you can circle it on the pic?

max_dreamer

iTrader: (2)

300 is too much. i went to a local and paid about 180 for some nice black leather 2000 i30's... i got every bolt that was removed as well as every mounting bracket and the metal and plastic pieces... the few that are welded on i didnt get but its not needed since they are such a tight fit...

as for the stuff you dremel, there are three tabs that hook the stock back seat in place... me n jnco drilled the first one out n nocked it off. then the other two we just bent back... if youve got a cutting wheel or dremel itll make life easier! and yes, the center one has to be removed! the outsides need to be hammered down or cut off or they will interfere with the placement of the seats.

Redline Maxima

iTrader: (10)

thanks for the edit on that pic max_dreamer. i still haven't gotten around to putting the brackets on that hold and release the seats, mainly because you don't need it because of how tight the seats fit in there. they literally don't move until you choose to fold them down...

El_BoriMax

iTrader: (7)

Black

max_dreamer

iTrader: (2)

no prob man! your the pioneer! im just the follower picking up some of the slack so your not answering all the questions! n yeah, i havent installed any of the other clips or anything. i think im gonna have some small brackets made up so that we can tack them in place to mount the outside brackets on the seats and hold everything in place a little better. but your definitely right on them not moving! ive done some very aggressive driving and they have hardly even shifted... they certainly arent gonna fold forward on ya!