rhonster

I was having very intermittent starter hesitations, ready to buy a new one, but yesterday installed a KS myself and now the car wont start even with a rolling push and popping the clutch? Could I have shorted something out, I was sure the KS could only go in oneway. Any ideas? There is some juice in the battery, but it should still have started with clutchpop right?

atriuum

iTrader: (3)

Start with checking whether you put everything back the way it was before your work. Take a really close look. Examine all the wires where you had your hands, etc.

rhonster

I got it started with a boost, it wants to cut out at a higher rev and the engine light starts to strobe or flicker crazily if you try and bring the revs up? Can a new knock sensor do that? what else. All else disconnected was the 2 airway clips and the greenone blocking the tunnel to the ks unit. Can a bad battery do all this?

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

If you CEL is flashing, you are having some ignition misfires which can cause engine damage. Read the codes and check the displaying cylinder.

rhonster

The engine light will not give a constant signal or code. At 2000-2500 there is a stumble and seeming misfire, but up till its all good in all gears. up to 4th anyway. The light comes on for a while then goes off when the revs drop to idle or it fluttes at the top end. How do you check codes like this. Do I need someone with an electronic reader to reset to the defaults? I cant get a code of any description and the engine light goes off at idle... Shut it off, constant engine light, code 4-1 which is reconnected now)

atriuum

iTrader: (3)

Before you do anything, check the codes. You need to read the code with the engine off:

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ere-first.html


How did you change the KS? Did you use the short cut, or did you remove the whole UIM? If the upper intake manifold was removed, check the harness going to spark plugs.

rhonster

I did the shortcut with a swivel ratchet and extension arm. The only engine code with the engine of is 04-01 which my manual suggests in superfluous. I moved some harness away a bit for easier access, but no manifold work.

atriuum

iTrader: (3)

Superfluous? What year car are you and how did you get the error code? If you counted the flashes, then you need to put the code in the reader below, and

http://boredmder.com/ecucodes/index.php

I see what you're saying, that's an intake air temperature sensor. I guess it should not cause your problem.

rhonster

0401 Intake Air Temperature Sensor, the print out codes I have say's it does not effect much of anything. It is the intake assembly b4 the filter and it is plugged in. This issue seems to be a timing advance issue but I am not getting any other codes.

atriuum

iTrader: (3)

Is your battery connected properly? Are the connections maybe loose?

rhonster

I will replace the battery tomorrow as it is old anyway, but no nothing is lose. With the battery charged up, the car starts but things start to stumble after 2500rpm (5spd), like a misfire or timing. I am tempted to just put the old KS back and see what that does, but I can't understand why a new one would mess things up like this. Usually the car runs like new even at 190kKm. Also, it wants to idle at 1000, not usual 700 area.

atriuum

iTrader: (3)

I've had an alternator problem that caused bizzare light shows on the panel, but shoot i dunno. Autozone can test both battery and alternator, but you can't get the car there if it's not starting. You can get the battery tested if you remove it. I hate telling you the obvious. Make sure the battery connections are clean, no oxidation, and the clamps are on there solid.

oh shoot, you're in canada. I don't know if you have Autozone up there, but car parts stores should be able to test for free... Might as well before you start spending money on things you don't need.

atriuum

iTrader: (3)

Did you pull the code yourself, or is it some old print out?

rhonster

its the same code in the old print out I have and the website. 0401 is a thermometer of sorts in the breather channel b4 the air filter.

atriuum

iTrader: (3)

The fluctuating rpm would not be the battery, because at that point the alternator is powering the engine. The battery is there to start the car. You may have a vacuum leak somewhere. I am really surprised you don't have any other codes.

It is highly likely the result of what you did, but it's tough to tell for sure. I would change the KS back, see what happens.

atriuum

iTrader: (3)

What airway clips are you talking about?

rhonster

OK, new code this am, 0102, Mass Air Flow ( safe mode limits engine to 2400 rpm) Bingo!. Also, 0401 not clipped in as far as it should have been. My Bad, all good.

atriuum

iTrader: (3)

Make sure MAF is plugged in, and it takes like 10 minutes to take it out, clean it, and put it back so you should.

rhonster

It was my mistake, the MAFS needed to be reconnected and the other thermosister was loose, so with them both hooked up there are no codes and the new KS has definitely improved the lower end performance. I have to drive 500 miles on a trip next week so am hoping the new KS will contribute to better mileage as well. I think with an MAFS discoed, also, the malfunction is " an excessively high voltage from the MAFS is sent when the engine is not running" which may have contributed to the battery being drained overnight. Anyway, runs like a champ now.