vqmaxman

Ok, I just fixed a problem and a another one just pops ups. This time I am getting a p0446 EVAP control vent Circuit. I am reading up on the forums and I am concluiding that you have to test the wires or the plunger near R/R driverside. I am hoping for straight direct and accurate fix for this one in one shot. Anyone with any info
Thanks.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

you have a 50/50 chance of it being the wiring and a 50/50 chance of it being a sticky plunger. You are going to have to flip a coin and pick one, we have no way of telling you which one it is. Based on odds and percentages, go for a sticky plunger. Clean it and hope that's it. If not, check the wiring.

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

Take it from me, just fixed a friends car with that same code that his mechanic could not fix for a year and a half until I looked at it. There is a solenoid located next to the MAP/BARO solenoid in front. That's the solenoid that you have to replace to get rid of the code. Its $100 at the dealership.

99zx2

iTrader: (3)

^^ the code he is having has to do with the vent valve in the back of the car (not the front).
we're still having this problem in our i30. it's confirmed to be the wiring. get a milti-meter and test the voltage (at the pigtail) with the key in the on position. the voltage should be around 12.6 (batt voltage). if i move the wires, the voltage jumps or goes straight to 0 -hence getting the code when the car tried to run its evap test.
but before you do that, check the plunger like mentioned. you can take the valve off and apply power to it, you should hear it click. you should also be able to blow the air thru it w/o any power applied.
keep us posted.

vqmaxman

I took out the valve and I cleaned It and It was rusting and I also took about 2 hours playing with the plunger but it did not want to go all the way down in the hole flush mounting with the surface or going underneath the flat surface,so I just prayed for the best and stuck it back in there and reseted my SES light and on the second crank the car SES light came back on. I had my OBD2 scanner on and I gave it the EVAP test and I heard it click so i know that my voltage is going thru right? If that's the case i don't need to test the voltage or the resistance. I am going to get me a new EVAP sensor.

nsnrider

iTrader: (59)

P0446 is for the solenoid in the back of the car.
P0442 is for the solenoid under hood.

GL

99zx2

iTrader: (3)

glad you figured it out. let us know if the new one fixes it for sure!

vqmaxman

ok, quick question here, I did the EVAP test with the OBD2 scanner and I heard a clicking noise from that area. I am wondering if the other sensors in that area are going to make a difference in that area too. If I were to test the wires in that area, I am supposed to test the wire that actually goes into the EVAP plunger or the other sensor there,becuase I am getting a 46.7-50.1ohms in the other wires. I am getting no voltage in the plunger wire but the other sensors are giving voltage. I am assuming everything is good because of the EVAP test that my obd2 is giving.

99zx2

iTrader: (3)

you are testing the resistance, not the voltage. test the pigtail that connects to the valve. should be 12.6 volts with the key in the "on" position.

vqmaxman

I just bought the part it was for $160 and I installed the part and I reset the SES light and it works and no SES light on WHOO!! I want to thank everyone that help me out here thanks.

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

Whoops...yeah that was my mistake. memorizing too many codes... Its actually P0443 for under the hood.

99zx2

iTrader: (3)

damn, man. should've gotten it from a junk yard or a classified on here, but glad it works now. let us know if the code comes back (hope not).