S1cTech

okay, basically my car shakes a lot. Like when you start to engage and go. I know that is a bad TO bearing from what I learned in School, I need to like really rev her up to 2grand to engage nicly. lol

When I slightly tap on the gas or even shift onto the highway I got a massive hesitation and wiggle as if my engine is out of timing and bad plugs etc. Now I am not doubting it is a misfire or anything cause it very well could be, but this misfire only happens when I get on it, Or shift hard. Or shift in higher gears. It doesn't misfire really in low gears so I am thinking it may be the TO bearing causing this...

My TO bearing is in real bad shape has been for years. haha. Getting the clutch done this Monday now that I got the money. Anyway. yeah, it just got louder and louder as time went on, And I went to go see how much play my shift fork has and its pretty sloppy. So I think my TO bearing either exploded completely like my friend thinks.

Honestly this is just my guess because it WOULD make sense I am sure. I really hope it is because I already threw a ton of money in for this clutch job that I coudnt do myself with the lack of a lift and time. I really don't want to replace all my Coils if it is something else.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

I dont doubt you have a bad TO, but you have other engine trouble on top of that. Higher gears mean bigger load on engine, hence exaggerated "misfire" in higher gears, and hard shifting. Could also be internal trans issues or cv joints. Hard to say, without seeing it. Your diagnosis and description leave alot to be desired.

wesmantooth1

I had something very similar, hesitation, shaking, shudder at acceleration. Also a lope at idle, sitting still. Bad Ignition coil, Cyl #5. I replaced with one from Autozone, part C1002 Duralast, and the hesitation went away, but started throwing code P1320, ignition signal primary circuit fault.
Could never figure out why that was, but I was also having a no start issue, and was troubleshooting a lot of things. Once i got that resolved, i just ignored the codes, since it ran fine. Now comes inspection time-- I went ahead and took out the Duralast coil, and replaced w my original on a hunch from the forums, and hesitation returned, along with P0305 cyl #5 misfire BUT THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WENT AWAY, no code p1320!
Needless to say, I'm taking the Duralast piece of crap back to Azone, and buying a nice Japanese one.

cashoit

jus hit the JY and see if u can find a good one.

99BlackMaxMS

iTrader: (85)

If you are doing the clutch, I really, really hope that you're planning on changing the throwout bearing too....its only like $30 OEM from Nissan...

Sounds to me like motor mounts is your problem though...do you get bad wheel hop under heavy acceleration?

S1cTech

haha I have a bad TO. I am just saying if it is relating to this. I am not asking if I have a bad TO or not. I know I do.

S1cTech

lol.... It would really make me question anyone doing a clutch if they never did a TO. That is like someone putting on new pads on their brakes with really really bad Rotors.... oh wait... ppl do that. but Brakes are easy compared to a clutch job.

And its not motor mounts that was my first thought. I replaced all those last summer and it was there still. It does make it seem like it would be bad ones tho.