input Shaft bearing :(
input Shaft bearing :(
Why do these go soo much
I just got a new gen5 clutch (ordered off Daveb) and TO installed. Its nice... but man wicked soft compared to gen4. lol. However...my biggest fears happened. It turns out I was right 3 years ago when I noticed it (and from what some ppl said on here) that my input shaft bearing is indeed bad, but why do they go? I mean jesus how sh!tty are these transmissions? The engines are good but it seems they just have glass like tranni's. Could it be from ppl putting in GL5? or Racing? Cause I always put GL4 in since owing it for the past 65k miles and change my tranni oil way too often. lol Prob about 15k.
anyway the cheapest quote from my guy(I get a discount btw) I got was $500 for an R+R tranni Input shaft replacement.
I just got a new gen5 clutch (ordered off Daveb) and TO installed. Its nice... but man wicked soft compared to gen4. lol. However...my biggest fears happened. It turns out I was right 3 years ago when I noticed it (and from what some ppl said on here) that my input shaft bearing is indeed bad, but why do they go? I mean jesus how sh!tty are these transmissions? The engines are good but it seems they just have glass like tranni's. Could it be from ppl putting in GL5? or Racing? Cause I always put GL4 in since owing it for the past 65k miles and change my tranni oil way too often. lol Prob about 15k.
anyway the cheapest quote from my guy(I get a discount btw) I got was $500 for an R+R tranni Input shaft replacement.
Last edited by S1cTech; Oct 17, 2010 at 11:49 PM.
I agree with the comment about the GL-5. It is known to cause the brass on the syncroz to become brittle and start chipping off. However, I can't say I agree with the comment about shimming. I rebuilt my trans some time ago (~75k or so) and it's fine. The reason the IPS bearing goes bad is due to impropper shimming from Nissan. If it is shimmed propperly, there shouldn't be any issues.
$500 is not too bad to be honest. Last one I did for a local guy here (Springfield Mo - middle of the country) I charged him $650 to just rebuild it. He did the R+R himself. If that $500 is for all of it - that's a hellofa deal.
Also, don't just do the IPS bearing - do them all (IPS, MS, Diff) and do seals while it's open and apart. If you buy a kit (I got mine from GT Trans in Georgia) it should come with all bearings (and outter races) and seals. You'll need to get the propper shims from Nissan - special order crap. You might be able to get them via Dave Burnnet (Dave B.) too.
yea, Thats with my discount I get with him. I heard people charge $1000 for the drop, Split and rebuilt. but honestly I don't even know if he will do a full rebuilt. He probably will just replace the IPS and maybe a few other bearings If I am lucky. I hope he shims but he didn't mention it, My Diff bearings were checked by kevin Goods almost about 2 years ago and no leaks, She whines a little bit in 1st or 2nd when I go to a N slow down. 2nd gear is a little notchy but never have too many issues. It is just this IPS is loud as **** and with 199k on the clock on my baby. I hope she can last a little more longer. I don't know if I should just find a rebuilt one, Or junkyard replace it, but honestly other then the IPS gear or some other bearings I think for a 200k tranni she is pretty good condtion compared to others around those miles.
I have read you're write ups JTZ on the trans and they seem to be time consuming jobs so even if the trans specialist I go to does it, he may take a week or so. He did my clutch good. I would of done it myself if I had a lift and time but he got it done in a day and a half for $300 So I can't complain. I like getting a discount from him but its only because he's partners with my uncle.
I have read you're write ups JTZ on the trans and they seem to be time consuming jobs so even if the trans specialist I go to does it, he may take a week or so. He did my clutch good. I would of done it myself if I had a lift and time but he got it done in a day and a half for $300 So I can't complain. I like getting a discount from him but its only because he's partners with my uncle.
GL4 vs GL5 has nothing to do with the bearings and shimming doesn't have anything to do with gears breaking. GL5 just has more EP additives that will cause accelerated synchronizer wear (while simultaneously providing better protection for the gears themselves in high torque/high stress applications).
it's virtually assured that whoever rebuilds your trans will not reshim it properly unless they are exceedingly diligent and have a ton of shims in stock at their disposal, or they wait weeks and weeks for the special order shims from nissan. improperly shimmed, you can probably expect input shaft bearing problems again in 50k-75k. you might get lucky though and the shims already in the trans will just by chance be close to correct for the new bearings, and it could last a good bit longer.
it's virtually assured that whoever rebuilds your trans will not reshim it properly unless they are exceedingly diligent and have a ton of shims in stock at their disposal, or they wait weeks and weeks for the special order shims from nissan. improperly shimmed, you can probably expect input shaft bearing problems again in 50k-75k. you might get lucky though and the shims already in the trans will just by chance be close to correct for the new bearings, and it could last a good bit longer.
So is this bearing the big 6-8 ball bearing stack? Or the mini roller ones? I hope I can go at least another year or maybe more until I find a new car, but I am broke as a joke and live on my own so if this blows I am screwed. The only thing I can see happening is the bearings will chew through the outer or inner race. Possibly even damaging the shaft or even worse the ***** fall out and bounce around the tranny causing catastrophic damage and or possible hurting my engine/clutch.
The sound isn't great. I will get a clip later if you like. IT doesn't seem as bad as it was with the TO bearing but it is bad and does quiet down once she is warmed up. I have nice yummy Amsoil in there that I got for a great deal(cheaper then Eds
and I hope if I just change maybe every 15 or so k, instead of the normal 20-30k I might get more life out of it.
The sound isn't great. I will get a clip later if you like. IT doesn't seem as bad as it was with the TO bearing but it is bad and does quiet down once she is warmed up. I have nice yummy Amsoil in there that I got for a great deal(cheaper then Eds
and I hope if I just change maybe every 15 or so k, instead of the normal 20-30k I might get more life out of it.
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