96 running Like she should, i think...
#1
96 running Like she should, i think...
My 96 sat for 4 years (biggest regret of my life) while I was living it up in NYC. I recently moved to MA where I am using the car as my daily driver because lets be honest, why would anyone not want a 4th gen as a daily driver?
It took a little while to get the car started, but all it needed was a new fuel pump. The car seemed underpowered, and I have headers, y-pipe, high-flow cat, and Greddy Evo SP2 catback. It never seemed to run efficiently after sitting for so long, in WOT it always seemed to lag a bit on the low and top end power. This is what I have replaced so far:
- fuel pump
- fuel pressure regulator
- fuel filter
- spark plugs
- MAF
- IACV
- oil and filter
- knock sensor
- manual tranny fluid
- ECTS
I was cleaning my MAF last week and knocked it off the table and it bounced on the floor. When I reinstalled it, the car would start but I couldn't rev the engine because dropping the MAF must have damaged it. I also immediately pulled a code for malfunctioning MAF.
I got a replacement MAF and IACV from blackmaxftw - thank you.
I went ahead and got a replacement IACV because when I started my car it would rev to about 2100rpm until it got to temp. and randomly rev when I depressed the clutch. Once the engine got to temp, it would idle fine but sometimes it would randomly jump to 1500 for a few seconds then drop down to 700. To me, it seemed like the idle control was not working properly.
While I had the MAF and IACV off I went ahead and cleaned the throttle body and EGR.
Im still having a hard start problem - probly the starter which is a remaf Nissan one that was on the car when I bought it with 65K. Now the car has 150K on it. I took the starter out and regreased it. The grease that was in there was minimal and very sticky and hard for the gears to move.
I put everything back together and started her up after sitting for a week waiting for the parts. The starter sounded great and turned easier than it did before. It sounded like it was slowing down before.
After all that:
starter - turns more easily, doesn't sound like its trying so hard to turn
MAF - sucks air in better than it did. the car sounds like its able to take a "deep breath" and the throttle response is amazing. It pulls in every gear.
IACV - when the car is cold it holds idle at 1500 rpm exactly and when warm idles at 650-700 on the nose.
no more random idle revs or spikes like before
exhaust - now since the car is breathing properly, my exhaust sounds like I remember it did when I had it installed. When I put my hand behind the exhaust pipe it is pushing out much more air than before.
How could I better tune my car? Would a safc or vafc help even though I do not YET have a de-k setup?
I have an oil gauge that is leaking - I am in the process of getting it fixed - could a leaky gauge cause enough difference in oil pressure for a hard start?
What else could I do to help with the hard start? - It cranks a few times then starts. I have also cleaned all grounds and added grounding wires.
It took a little while to get the car started, but all it needed was a new fuel pump. The car seemed underpowered, and I have headers, y-pipe, high-flow cat, and Greddy Evo SP2 catback. It never seemed to run efficiently after sitting for so long, in WOT it always seemed to lag a bit on the low and top end power. This is what I have replaced so far:
- fuel pump
- fuel pressure regulator
- fuel filter
- spark plugs
- MAF
- IACV
- oil and filter
- knock sensor
- manual tranny fluid
- ECTS
I was cleaning my MAF last week and knocked it off the table and it bounced on the floor. When I reinstalled it, the car would start but I couldn't rev the engine because dropping the MAF must have damaged it. I also immediately pulled a code for malfunctioning MAF.
I got a replacement MAF and IACV from blackmaxftw - thank you.
I went ahead and got a replacement IACV because when I started my car it would rev to about 2100rpm until it got to temp. and randomly rev when I depressed the clutch. Once the engine got to temp, it would idle fine but sometimes it would randomly jump to 1500 for a few seconds then drop down to 700. To me, it seemed like the idle control was not working properly.
While I had the MAF and IACV off I went ahead and cleaned the throttle body and EGR.
Im still having a hard start problem - probly the starter which is a remaf Nissan one that was on the car when I bought it with 65K. Now the car has 150K on it. I took the starter out and regreased it. The grease that was in there was minimal and very sticky and hard for the gears to move.
I put everything back together and started her up after sitting for a week waiting for the parts. The starter sounded great and turned easier than it did before. It sounded like it was slowing down before.
After all that:
starter - turns more easily, doesn't sound like its trying so hard to turn
MAF - sucks air in better than it did. the car sounds like its able to take a "deep breath" and the throttle response is amazing. It pulls in every gear.
IACV - when the car is cold it holds idle at 1500 rpm exactly and when warm idles at 650-700 on the nose.
no more random idle revs or spikes like before
exhaust - now since the car is breathing properly, my exhaust sounds like I remember it did when I had it installed. When I put my hand behind the exhaust pipe it is pushing out much more air than before.
How could I better tune my car? Would a safc or vafc help even though I do not YET have a de-k setup?
I have an oil gauge that is leaking - I am in the process of getting it fixed - could a leaky gauge cause enough difference in oil pressure for a hard start?
What else could I do to help with the hard start? - It cranks a few times then starts. I have also cleaned all grounds and added grounding wires.
Last edited by Swazey; 11-05-2010 at 11:55 AM.
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