My 96 sat for 4 years (biggest regret of my life) while I was living it up in NYC. I recently moved to MA where I am using the car as my daily driver because lets be honest, why would anyone not want a 4th gen as a daily driver?
It took a little while to get the car started, but all it needed was a new fuel pump. The car seemed underpowered, and I have headers, y-pipe, high-flow cat, and Greddy Evo SP2 catback. It never seemed to run efficiently after sitting for so long, in WOT it always seemed to lag a bit on the low and top end power. This is what I have replaced so far:
- fuel pump
- fuel pressure regulator
- fuel filter
- spark plugs
- MAF
- IACV
- oil and filter
- knock sensor
- manual tranny fluid
- ECTS
I was cleaning my MAF last week and knocked it off the table and it bounced on the floor. When I reinstalled it, the car would start but I couldn't rev the engine because dropping the MAF must have damaged it. I also immediately pulled a code for malfunctioning MAF.
I got a replacement MAF and IACV from blackmaxftw - thank you.
I went ahead and got a replacement IACV because when I started my car it would rev to about 2100rpm until it got to temp. and randomly rev when I depressed the clutch. Once the engine got to temp, it would idle fine but sometimes it would randomly jump to 1500 for a few seconds then drop down to 700. To me, it seemed like the idle control was not working properly.
While I had the MAF and IACV off I went ahead and cleaned the throttle body and EGR.
Im still having a hard start problem - probly the starter which is a remaf Nissan one that was on the car when I bought it with 65K. Now the car has 150K on it. I took the starter out and regreased it. The grease that was in there was minimal and very sticky and hard for the gears to move.
I put everything back together and started her up after sitting for a week waiting for the parts. The starter sounded great and turned easier than it did before. It sounded like it was slowing down before.
After all that:
starter - turns more easily, doesn't sound like its trying so hard to turn
MAF - sucks air in better than it did. the car sounds like its able to take a "deep breath" and the throttle response is amazing. It pulls in every gear.
IACV - when the car is cold it holds idle at 1500 rpm exactly and when warm idles at 650-700 on the nose.
no more random idle revs or spikes like before
exhaust - now since the car is breathing properly, my exhaust sounds like I remember it did when I had it installed. When I put my hand behind the exhaust pipe it is pushing out much more air than before.
How could I better tune my car? Would a safc or vafc help even though I do not YET have a de-k setup?
I have an oil gauge that is leaking - I am in the process of getting it fixed - could a leaky gauge cause enough difference in oil pressure for a hard start?
What else could I do to help with the hard start? - It cranks a few times then starts. I have also cleaned all grounds and added grounding wires.
It took a little while to get the car started, but all it needed was a new fuel pump. The car seemed underpowered, and I have headers, y-pipe, high-flow cat, and Greddy Evo SP2 catback. It never seemed to run efficiently after sitting for so long, in WOT it always seemed to lag a bit on the low and top end power. This is what I have replaced so far:
- fuel pump
- fuel pressure regulator
- fuel filter
- spark plugs
- MAF
- IACV
- oil and filter
- knock sensor
- manual tranny fluid
- ECTS
I was cleaning my MAF last week and knocked it off the table and it bounced on the floor. When I reinstalled it, the car would start but I couldn't rev the engine because dropping the MAF must have damaged it. I also immediately pulled a code for malfunctioning MAF.
I got a replacement MAF and IACV from blackmaxftw - thank you.
I went ahead and got a replacement IACV because when I started my car it would rev to about 2100rpm until it got to temp. and randomly rev when I depressed the clutch. Once the engine got to temp, it would idle fine but sometimes it would randomly jump to 1500 for a few seconds then drop down to 700. To me, it seemed like the idle control was not working properly.
While I had the MAF and IACV off I went ahead and cleaned the throttle body and EGR.
Im still having a hard start problem - probly the starter which is a remaf Nissan one that was on the car when I bought it with 65K. Now the car has 150K on it. I took the starter out and regreased it. The grease that was in there was minimal and very sticky and hard for the gears to move.
I put everything back together and started her up after sitting for a week waiting for the parts. The starter sounded great and turned easier than it did before. It sounded like it was slowing down before.
After all that:
starter - turns more easily, doesn't sound like its trying so hard to turn
MAF - sucks air in better than it did. the car sounds like its able to take a "deep breath" and the throttle response is amazing. It pulls in every gear.
IACV - when the car is cold it holds idle at 1500 rpm exactly and when warm idles at 650-700 on the nose.
no more random idle revs or spikes like before
exhaust - now since the car is breathing properly, my exhaust sounds like I remember it did when I had it installed. When I put my hand behind the exhaust pipe it is pushing out much more air than before.
How could I better tune my car? Would a safc or vafc help even though I do not YET have a de-k setup?
I have an oil gauge that is leaking - I am in the process of getting it fixed - could a leaky gauge cause enough difference in oil pressure for a hard start?
What else could I do to help with the hard start? - It cranks a few times then starts. I have also cleaned all grounds and added grounding wires.
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
Check the ECT sensor, make sure it's within spec when it's cold.
Quote:
my ECTS is stating to leak just a little, time to replace? They're cheap enoughOriginally Posted by njmaxseltd
Check the ECT sensor, make sure it's within spec when it's cold.
Banned
It shouldn't be leaking, maybe it's loose. It is found sometimes to cause hard start issues though (reporting wrong coolant temperature). Not a very expensive part, but check it with a multimeter first.