Activating the starter WITHOUT the ignition switch?
Activating the starter WITHOUT the ignition switch?
I'm having intermittent problem starting my 97 Max (auto).
I would like to eliminate the ignition switch from the diagnosis. In other words, I would like to start (or at least attempt to start) by making connection between two or more contact points on the male adapter harness (for the female ignition switch adapter harness.)
Do you have a pinout for that male adapter harness?
Many thanks.
I would like to eliminate the ignition switch from the diagnosis. In other words, I would like to start (or at least attempt to start) by making connection between two or more contact points on the male adapter harness (for the female ignition switch adapter harness.)
Do you have a pinout for that male adapter harness?
Many thanks.
Last edited by 95MaxSE; Nov 20, 2010 at 07:24 AM.
Cant help you at the ign switch harness. I do plug my remote starter switch into the inhibitor relay plug and the battery positive. Dont have a wire diagram on me, bur there is one printed on the relay body. Plug into a switch contact terminal, you have a 50/50 of getting the right one, try the other if it doesn't work.
That will take care of the stater cicuit, I cant help you on the engine management though.
That will take care of the stater cicuit, I cant help you on the engine management though.
The wire you want to use is the black with white stripe coming out of pin 5 of the ignition switch. BUT this wire does not go directly to the starter. The wire goes to the inhibitor relay whose activation is controlled by both the park/neutral safety switch mounted on the shift lever in the console and by theft warning relay.
If you look at your starter, there are two wires going to it. A thick cable from the battery and a thin wire. The thin wire is from the ignition switch after it goes through the inhibitor relay. If you jumper 12 volts to this wire, the engine will crank if the starter is good.
If you are having starting problems, get a voltmeter and check for 12 volts on the black/ white stripe wire from the ignition switch when the key is turned in the start position. If you have it, then check for 12 volts at the thin wire on the starter. If you have 12 volts at the starter, you have a starter problem. If no voltage, then your problem is elsewhere. Try putting the transmission lever in neutral and see if the car starts. If it does, this would mean the park/neutral safety switch is the problem.
If you look at your starter, there are two wires going to it. A thick cable from the battery and a thin wire. The thin wire is from the ignition switch after it goes through the inhibitor relay. If you jumper 12 volts to this wire, the engine will crank if the starter is good.
If you are having starting problems, get a voltmeter and check for 12 volts on the black/ white stripe wire from the ignition switch when the key is turned in the start position. If you have it, then check for 12 volts at the thin wire on the starter. If you have 12 volts at the starter, you have a starter problem. If no voltage, then your problem is elsewhere. Try putting the transmission lever in neutral and see if the car starts. If it does, this would mean the park/neutral safety switch is the problem.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=476887_0_0_
hook one end to (+) terminal and the other one to the smaller starter terminal
hook one end to (+) terminal and the other one to the smaller starter terminal
I'm back with some data points:
1) Ignition switch connector/wire:
Green/Black and Yellow/Black are always non-active (ZERO volt)
Red/White is always active (12 volt)
When key is in ACC position, Blue wire is active
When key is in ON position, Red, Blue, and White/Black are active
When key is in START position, Red and White/Black are active (Blue is non-active)
2) Confirm that the starter solenoid is functioning by connecting the small (starter control) connector to the positive battery post.
3) The small connector (starter control) is always non-active EVEN when the key is in START position.
Questions:
- Regarding 1) above: are they supposed to be that way? How come G/B and Y/B are not used at all?
- In regard to 3) above: How do I bypass the sensors (one at a time) so I can get 12V to the starter control connector?
Thanks.
1) Ignition switch connector/wire:
Green/Black and Yellow/Black are always non-active (ZERO volt)
Red/White is always active (12 volt)
When key is in ACC position, Blue wire is active
When key is in ON position, Red, Blue, and White/Black are active
When key is in START position, Red and White/Black are active (Blue is non-active)
2) Confirm that the starter solenoid is functioning by connecting the small (starter control) connector to the positive battery post.
3) The small connector (starter control) is always non-active EVEN when the key is in START position.
Questions:
- Regarding 1) above: are they supposed to be that way? How come G/B and Y/B are not used at all?
- In regard to 3) above: How do I bypass the sensors (one at a time) so I can get 12V to the starter control connector?
Thanks.
Pull out the theft warning relay (black relay in the box by the power steering oil reservoir) and put a jumper across pins 3 & 4. This would rule out the anti-theft system if you still have a starting problem.
Remove the inhibitor relay (gray relay in the box in front of the battery) and put a jumper across pins 6 & 7. This jumper wire needs to be a heavier gauge wire like the ones on the ignition switch. This bypasses the anti-theft stuff. If still no start, the starter has a problem.
If the car starts, the inhibitor relay could be bad or the the cruise control (ASCD) (inhibitor relay pins 3 & 4) is stopping you.
The wire you want to use is the black with white stripe coming out of pin 5 of the ignition switch. BUT this wire does not go directly to the starter. The wire goes to the inhibitor relay whose activation is controlled by both the park/neutral safety switch mounted on the shift lever in the console and by theft warning relay.
If you look at your starter, there are two wires going to it. A thick cable from the battery and a thin wire. The thin wire is from the ignition switch after it goes through the inhibitor relay. If you jumper 12 volts to this wire, the engine will crank if the starter is good.
If you are having starting problems, get a voltmeter and check for 12 volts on the black/ white stripe wire from the ignition switch when the key is turned in the start position. If you have it, then check for 12 volts at the thin wire on the starter. If you have 12 volts at the starter, you have a starter problem. If no voltage, then your problem is elsewhere. Try putting the transmission lever in neutral and see if the car starts. If it does, this would mean the park/neutral safety switch is the problem.
If you look at your starter, there are two wires going to it. A thick cable from the battery and a thin wire. The thin wire is from the ignition switch after it goes through the inhibitor relay. If you jumper 12 volts to this wire, the engine will crank if the starter is good.
If you are having starting problems, get a voltmeter and check for 12 volts on the black/ white stripe wire from the ignition switch when the key is turned in the start position. If you have it, then check for 12 volts at the thin wire on the starter. If you have 12 volts at the starter, you have a starter problem. If no voltage, then your problem is elsewhere. Try putting the transmission lever in neutral and see if the car starts. If it does, this would mean the park/neutral safety switch is the problem.
Last edited by The Wizard; Feb 29, 2016 at 08:11 AM.
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