99MAXPIMP

iTrader: (2)

sup every 1 i had a code for miss in #5 so i changed coil now this p1320 code pops up but the miss code is gone and the car pops now when i drive it. if any 1 can help me that would be great.oh yea that code poped up soon as i changed the coil and started the car the car drives great into i get on it

maxxxdout

iTrader: (4)

I just got the same code... I have brand new plugs in, did a seafoam and I still have the code.

maxgtr2000

iTrader: (29)

It's still an ignition fault circuit code. You can do a search for "igniter condenser" which is a 50mF capacitor I believe, it's a $6 or $7 part at the dealer, if it is bad it may throw this code, a faulty coil pack will do it, and also if there is a short in one of the wires from the ecu to the coil because the ecu does a ground reference check to the coils at start up, if it doesn't sense the right ohm resistance it throws the code.

99MAXPIMP

iTrader: (2)

WILL THIS CODE MAKE THE CAR POP AND MISS WHEN I DRIVE IT HARD

99MAXPIMP

iTrader: (2)

ok i put back old coil no more p1320 code so i guess it was that new coil but my car still pops and missed when i drive the car hard and 1 no why

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

maybe you should take it easy on ol maxy man,popping sounds like a misfire which could be a bad fuel injector???

99MAXPIMP

iTrader: (2)

i do man this was for testing only i dont go around driving the **** out of her lol i fixed the p1320 code can a mod close this

eutecticpt

I have a 1999 Maxima Cali spec 5 speed with about 172,000 miles. About two weeks ago cylinder 3 misfired and I replaced the corresponding coil and cleared codes. The car then began throwing code P1320 Distributor Signal Interrupt. Changed the remaining coils and plugs. Still throwing code P1320. Changed both crank position sensors--still throwing the flipping P1320 code. I removed and cleaned the camshaft position. I applied dielectric grease on both the spark plug boot and coil connector--could this be causing the car to throw the code. Car is not missing or stalling. I've about had it and may sell the car. Any suggestions?

Thanks

floydthedog

From other things I've read, it sounds like others have had similar issues when replacing one coil - the new one seems to cause the 1320 code. For me, I've been dealing with 1320 for the 8 years I've owned this car. Replaced every part I can think of, save the whole wiring harness and ECU. I just live with a constant CEL light. Don't worry, it'll burn out eventually But no, if you're not having driving issues, you can work around the code and still get it to pass a smog check.

floydthedog

UPDATE: I finally got P1320 to go away!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Here's the short version.
Failed smog b/c of high NOx. Suspected EGR needed cleaning. Had never been done, car has 216,000 mi.
Cleaned TB, IACV, UIM, EGR Tube, Temp sensor, EGR Valve, EGR Control BPT Valve, EVAP valves.
Replaced valve cover gaskets, PCV and Insulator, blowby hose from rear to front valve cover.

Now here's the interesting part, aside from being quite dirty inside, I found that the small hose (maybe 2") that connects the small metal tube from the EGR valve to the bottom of the EGR control BPT valve had ruptured some time ago and the little metal tube was partially blocked. cleaned that out, replaced that hose, put it all back together and haven't heard a peep from my old pal 1320. I don't believe it is coming back.

I guess it's also possible that I had a short in the main wiring harness that I had to move to the passenger side to remove the UIM, and that it kinked itself back together when I reinstalled, but for some reason, I want to believe that the busted hose under the egrbpt was to blame.

Anyway, goodbye 1320, the last ten years have been fun. only had to replace the MIL bulb once!

steezmuffin686

why not pull the cluster and disconnect the bulb instead of waiting for that baddie to burn out? lol, u might wait awhile.