i30dvr

iTrader: (6)

alright guys. drove my car earlier today and everything was working just fine. i came home around 7pm and went out just now to go out to a friends and about 2 seconds after you turn the key and hear the fuel pump prime, u see a flash (being that its dark) from the fuse box. its the engine control fuse. could something be shorting out? i'm stumped and don't know what to do. i replaced it with a higher amp fuse (30amp) bc thats all i had and it keeps blowing it as well. ive gone threw like 5 fuses so far and dont know what else to try. all of the things i had tapped for power off the fuse box (boost gauge) and wideband i pulled out to see if that changed anything...nothing.

HELP any suggestions? thanks

Stormzusmc

iTrader: (17)

yeah there is a short...DO NOT replace it with a higher amperage fuse..that could really damage something or even start a fire.....

find out whats all on the circuit and unplug them one at a time then turn the car on

i30dvr

iTrader: (6)

well what would be on the "engine control" circuit? i don't think pulling them one at a time if your talking about the fuses is going to do anything. i am about to take a voltmeter to it while the key is on to see what kinda voltage its getting. idk y it would just start out of the blue..it ran perfect earlier today.

adroitcaptor

Stormzusmc - Your suggested troubleshooting method IS NOT safe, practical, or correct.

Continuing to blow fuses, risk component failure and electrical fire is the wrong way to TS. FIX the problem before moving on.

Before you go testing things you first need to understand what you are dealing with. Finding out what loads that fuse (FSM) IS correct first step. You need to then test each piece of the system. If you have to apply power to test use a jumper [wire] (after you isolate said component).

If you are blowing a fuse then you are dealing with a short. That itself eliminates quite a bit. If applicable, split the circuit from passive and non-passive and test what you can using an ohm meter. (Always do an inspection first. Look for anything out of place, worn, etc.) If you have yet to find your problem start testing each component in the aforementioned manner.

If you need more help post here or PM me. I can walk you through the FSM and help you out once I am home.

cashoit

Have u done any recent mods or electrical work. U sure everything taped off properly. U have a short somewhere meaning a wire on that circuit is making contact with ground (or the chassis in this case).

U need to trace wiring and tape it off. If u cant trace then u will need to run new wires. Prolly easier doing that than tryin to trace. thats why i hate electrical, they always hard to diagnos.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Bet it's a coil gone bad. Had the exact same thing happen to me.

Unplug all your coil packs, put the correct fuse back in and see if it blows.
If not, you've found the problem. Now plug in one coil at a time until the fuse blows again, then you've found the bad coil.

Took me 2 days to figure out what was wrong.

i30dvr

iTrader: (6)

ive got an aftermarket viper alarm but it was installed like 3 yrs ago. i broke the remote and since then have not used the alarm nor the oem fob. i just use the key to lok and unlock the car. idk y it would have started out of the blue but yea i hate frickin electrical problems.

i thought i had solved the problem last night. the only electrical stuff that i haven't installed in the car was the alarm so night i pulled off the plastic cover under the steering wheel and looked at what was going on. i had to replace the ignition starter switch down at school and just left the old one in there b/c it was spliced into all of the viper stuff. when i took it apart last night i thought the problem was the b/c it was tucked under the metal u shaped brace and the backside had exposed points so i taped the whole thing up and put it all back together. started right up and ran perfect on the way to work. this evening when i left i made it like 1/2 mile and the motor died again so i figure thats not the problem. i really want to rip out the viper bs because im not planning on using it anymore.

also if it was a coil y would it only do it sometimes? when it died tonight i put 2 more fuses in and they blew right away. i disconnected the battery let it sit, reconnected and left all wires hanging down basically on my feet. i made it home (about 3 miles) but still think something is up.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

EC is fuse #17 it's 10 Amp it protects a lot of circuits including the theft circuit.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

Never mind.

i30dvr

iTrader: (6)

look for the engine control fuse. i don't know the number off the top of my head but i was referring to the alarm fuses that are aftermarket. if i pull those out will it "bypass" the viper system? i'm just trying to eliminate diff things...

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

I was a little confused myself. Yes removing the aftermarket fuses from your aftermarket alarm will most likely isolate that from the EC fuse circuit.


IF your alarm is connected to the green with Yellow stripe wire you may want to remove that or at least take a close look at that wiring. Also if you keep blowing the EC fuse see if removing the Theft warning relay helps.


Only use 10 amp fuses as replacements during your testing.

i30dvr

iTrader: (6)

ok sounds good, where is the theft warning relay? would it be the same if i take that out?

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

Underhood relay box on passenger side, by the power steering reservoir.

If the fuse always blows yes see if it still blows with the relay removed. If the fuse only blows sometimes you may not be able to drive with that relay removed. Would like to help more but must sleep.

i30dvr

iTrader: (6)

same...i'll keep u posted tomm

i30dvr

iTrader: (6)

i haven't had a chance to do anything today with the car because of the weather but i wanted to ask you if it isn't my aftermarket alarm and in fact it is one of the coils wouldn't pop a fuse everytime? it seems like it has spurts. sometimes i will go through 2 or 3 fuses put another in and its fine for a lil while.

also do you unplug the coils then turn the key on and leave it one while plugging in each coil? or disconnect all then connect one at a time and turn the key on/off everytime an coil connector is added.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

If the fuse only blows occasionally that makes the problem much harder to find.
If the fuse always blows as soon as you turn the car on or perform some operation all of the time that makes it easier to find.
This is a bad fuse to be blowing because so many circuits are connected to it.
Auto trans, Theft, start, ASCD. Cool, PS Solenoid, Fuel pump relay and more.

I cannot say for certain but fuse #17 EC 10 Amp does not look like it would blow due to a bad coil pack. I just cannot find how that would happen from looking at the wiring diagrams. i30DR this may take a while to figure out. I'll kind of study up and see what I can suggest but it will take some time.

i30dvr

iTrader: (6)

ok cool, i will try and rip out the aftermarket alarm tomm and see if that changes anything and report back.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

That is a good place to start. So you are able to use the car? How often does that fuse blow? Under what conditions does the fuse blow? Or does it just seem to blow totally out of the blue.

Make certain that the fuse we are talking about is #17 EC 10amp. The fuse number is molded into the fuse box, it's kind of hard to see. I believe that would be the sixth fuse from the bottom middle row, make sure of that.

i30dvr

iTrader: (6)

yes it is the EC fuse for sure. when it blows it seems to just blow out of the blue. when i blows and i don't make any changes i.e. don't take the plastic shield from underneath the steering wheel and just replace it it will blow as soon as i turn the key. i ripped the viper system out this morning and an got a new ignition starter switch just in case(can get it free at work) so i'm getting that in the morning then i will drive it around and report back. it fired up after i ripped the alarm out but when i got it to start the other night to make it home from work i hadn't made any changes till this morning when i ripped the stuff out

i30dvr

iTrader: (6)

ok....bad news. its not the coils. me like a dumba** ordered a new set of coils thinking that its prolly the problem, installed drove the car for about 5miles and boom, car blows fuse. its def the harness.....i shook it near the firewall and got it to fire without blowing any fuses. this is after i installed 2 fuses back to back and they blew. i'm soo fed up w/ the 99 crap anyway, i've got a fresh 96 harness in my basement thats uncut. i'm wondering whats involved with swapping that. i know there is a thread on it but i'm wondering what has to be rewired. i also have a 96 jwt ecu for it that i was gonna send out to get the NATS program added to work in a 99 but being there is a short somewhere in the harness i figure i would be less difficult just to swap everything over....

whats everyone think? i would return the coils but being there electronic i can't. even though i got them for 37 a piece it was still like 240 bucks down the drain.....

i30dvr

iTrader: (6)

ok....bad news. its not the coils. me like a dumba** ordered a new set of coils thinking that its prolly the problem, installed drove the car for about 5miles and boom, car blows fuse. its def the harness.....i shook it near the firewall and got it to fire without blowing any fuses. this is after i installed 2 fuses back to back and they blew. i'm soo fed up w/ the 99 crap anyway, i've got a fresh 96 harness in my basement thats uncut. i'm wondering whats involved with swapping that. i know there is a thread on it but i'm wondering what has to be rewired. i also have a 96 jwt ecu for it that i was gonna send out to get the NATS program added to work in a 99 but being there is a short somewhere in the harness i figure i would be less difficult just to swap everything over....

whats everyone think? i would return the coils but being there electronic i can't. even though i got them for 37 a piece it was still like 240 bucks down the drain.....

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

Don't know how difficult it is to follow, but the wire (s) you should check are red with a yellow stripe. They go from the fuse box to provide power to a few solenoids and sensors in the engine compartment.

Don't know of I can identify them all but 1) EGR solenoid 2) Vacuum Cut bypass valve

There is a total of five I'll add more if/when I identify them. I would say inspect the wiring and these components.

adroitcaptor

So let me get this straight. Instead of doing what someone intelligent says you go and listen to someone who does not even read your post? Awesome...

When you are ready to find the issue the correct way re-read my post. When you have a question feel free to ask (or if you do not know hot to properly diagnose).

Secondly, if the short blows the fuse that quickly, it is a dead short. BTW - You could have checked the coils correctly without having to blow any more fuses or buy new ones. You are back with the rest of the schmucks throwing money/parts at their cars.

I am like a broken record...

i30dvr

iTrader: (6)

yes i understand i could have checked the coils....bla bla....


please, if you don't have anything constructive then don't say it. i have a tendency to jump to conclusions i.e. buy coils. thats my decision and doesn't need to be criticized....

i30dvr

iTrader: (6)

ok guys still having the problem. it seems like when im driving it blows under a load....the last 5 fuses have been under heavy load. anyway got it to have a solid short (blowing fuse) every time i turned the key so i found the wiring diagram of what is on that circuit. (#17 EC).

its f/pump
cool/f
pst/sw
start
ascd
theft
sw/v
egrc
vent/v
byps/v
nats
swl/v

ok when i got the fuse to blow everytime i turned the key i started unplugging stuff until the fuse didn't blow. it was the power steering switch by the shock tower. car started right up. so i thought problem was fixed and went out and drove it. everything was good cruising so i did a second gear roll and went up to about 6k and let the rpms fall down while still in 2nd gear. came to a stop and car cut off. so that leads me to believe its when its under load something is touching and shorting out, but then there have been a few times where it happens instantly or when at low speed/rpm.

my other question is what do all those circuits mean? obviously i understand fuel pump, cooling fans, nats, theft, start (is that the start signal?) but don't know what sw/v, egrc, vent/v, byps,v, or swl/v. what do you all think?

i30dvr

iTrader: (6)

ok so i went out today and drove it for about 15min. everything was fine...did some hard pulls and nothing blew. i am thinking i had fixed it until i pulled in my neighborhood and went into my court to turn around and while i was turning i hear the fuse pop. throw another one in and fires right up to make it home. i get it back to the garage and cut it off. i'm trying to eliminate things on the list for that circuit so i disconnect the cooling fans and then just for kicks i feel the radiator and hoses. the rad. is hot and upper hose is hot. the lower hose is stone cold which tells me the thermostat is stuck or there is some sort of blockage in their. my question is wouldn't the engine overheat? the temp is normal and if it was the cooling fans shorting out when they try and come on the fuse should only blow at that time. its intermit. but why would the lower hose and the bottom of the rad. be cold? the heat blows just fine and the temp stays in the middle.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

EGRC is some type of EGR control valve. Look for snsors/valves that have a red with a yellow stripe wire running to them. There is a good chance one of those is responsible.

i30dvr

iTrader: (6)

ok will do....any chance u know what any of the other things mean?

sw/v
swl/v
byps/v
etc....

dumb question, but it obviously wouldn't be the fuel pump correct? in theory if it was shorting out it would pop the fuel pump fuse vs. the EC fuse.....

i30dvr

iTrader: (6)

yes it does....lol

maxgtr2000

iTrader: (29)

Check the fsm, those abbreviations look like Swirl valve (swl/v), bypass valve (byp/v).

i30dvr

iTrader: (6)

ok what are the two connectors on the dek manifold? one is brown and one is black. What are the names because the both have a red w/ yellow wire and the brown one has a little bit of the wire exposed so i'm going to solder that and try it. i'm wondering the names because i wanna see if its one that #17 EC circuit.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

Anything with a red and yellow stripe wire is connected to EC fuse. What you need to do is disconnect the connector from the valve and see if the fuse blows. Unless you have an ohmeter and know how to use it this will be difficult. the fact that the wire is exposed only matters if it's touching another wire or metal.

The best advise I can give you is if you find a red/ yellow wire conected to a sensor/valve remove the connector and see if your fuse still blows.