Maxima-4DSC

iTrader: (1)

sow hen i did my 5 speed swap the clutch has slipped since day one under hard acceleration. its a stage one exedy brand new. now im doing a motor swap and am wondering if i should put a new clutch in. ideas ? could it have been a bad unit or is there something i missed during the swap years ago that would have caused the clutch to slip ?

phatboislim

iTrader: (27)

first i've ever heard of an exedy clutch doing that..they normally have great reviews...i personally have a competition clutch stage 1 in mine...absolutely no problems...a little more chatter than i did when i had one in my GSR, but its no biggie, and not that evident

ken85

iTrader: (1)

Is your car stock or only have minor mods? Why not use a stock clutch? But anywho, I never had any issues out of my exedy stage 2 in my turbocharged civic.

Maxima-4DSC

iTrader: (1)

minor mods nothing crazy i guess i could just get any old clutch from the parts store...just hate stock stuff lol...

aackshun

iTrader: (3)

Wait wtf? Did you wail on your car right out of the driveway?

You realise the clutch system is one big brake, just like bedding in brakes you have to break in the clutch.....

And if you're doing a VQ35 swap you'd need atleast a stage II clutch from exedy, stage I is pushing it (a stage I Z32 N/A clutch disc is barely suitable though, if you're on a budget just go with that then).

Maxima-4DSC

iTrader: (1)

Probably a bad unit and no it's a vq30 with minor mods nothing crazy

cashoit

how is the flywheel? there is usually a break-in period for the clutch.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Did you clean the surfaces of the flywheel and PP?

315max

did you go through the break-in period? did you adjust the clutch so when you release the pedal it fully engages the pressure plate?

adroitcaptor

I doubt that it was a bad unit for reasons already stated.

Based on your post it is much more likely your fault. At that, again an assumption, probably improper break-in. This is the most common issue with slip, bounce, and chatter.

To answer your OP, yes, you should put in a new clutch. You should also take asand1's advice if you do it yourself and aackshun's advice with the stronger clutch.

Maxima-4DSC

iTrader: (1)

im going to replace it but im just throwing in a new stock clutch moneys tight im already changing the motor. The flywheel was a brand new fidanza at the time with a brand new exedy. i cleaded it with brake fluid like instructed and installed it. we have hydraulic clutches there is no adjustment what you see is what you get.

adroitcaptor

Problem found, you "cleaned" it with break fluid.

Yes, there are adjustments.

aackshun

iTrader: (3)

We'll give him a chance, maybe he meant brake cleaner... Then by all means he's in the clear.

Oh lord, adjusting our clutches..... P.I.T.F.A, well for me anyways, I'm a big guy, I was not meant to be adjusting Maxima Clutches.

Only adjust your clutch as a last resort after all other things have been tackled, eg. if you have low engagement, try re-bleeding it, rebuilding the slave cylinder, etc, the very last two things I would do is Replace the master cylinder (which I need to do) and adjust the clutch to fix an engagment problem.

Maxima-4DSC

iTrader: (1)

not brake fluid !! lmfao brake cleaner. i am however interested in how we adjust these things. cause i did have a low engagment but i bled the crap out of the lines there was no air in there yet still low engagment present. i could physically lift the petal to the top and then it would almost operate at a normal engagment for a short while.....maybe master...hummmm

315max

just because its a hydrauylic clutch doesnt mean there is no adjustment. its actually quite challenging doing a clutch job yourself. check the lines a cylinders for leaks. i honestly forgot how i did it when i replaced the clutch in my 97 max se. i had to push the clutch in at the same time i was tightening the bolts and checking fluid level. just double check everything before you put a stock clutch back in

asand1

iTrader: (1)

If I'm not mistaken the only adjustment is actually pedal height. With the Master cylinder at rest, the reservoir port is opened, and line pressure is vented into the reservoir. However if the pedal was adjusted too high, it might keep enough pressure on the MC that the reservoir port system remains closed.

Inversely, If the pedal is too low the clutch will never fully dis-engage. It will drag and be hard to shift. This will cause premature wear and eventually slip.

Maxima-4DSC

iTrader: (1)

It's all good I completed the motor swap with a new clutch and she is back on the road. I'm babying it best I can right now

cashoit

Yes. U can adujust clutch pedal engagement height.

the master cylinder has a plunger that is attached to the clutch pedal. That plunger has a nut on it that adjusts the height of the clutch pedal. look on the back of the clutch pedal, locate the plunger, adjust the nut until the engagement point suits u. U will have to test drive the car until u get the right comfortabnle setting.

SEARCH the org. I started a thread where i had a problem with engagement point and how to adjust.