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Timing Chain cover removal.

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Old Feb 12, 2011 | 12:15 PM
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Timing Chain cover removal.

So the water pump finally went bad on my 96 gxe. I removed and replace the water pump while reading instructions from the "how to" sticky from Ilyak. FYI it was an extremely good write up!! but while i was removing the timing belt tensioner to replace the water pump i lost the spring and piston from the tensioner into my timing belt cover...... some how i was able to fish out the spring with a magnet but the piston just wont come out. so my second option would have to be to remove the timing chain cover and physically remove the piston. i was wondering if someone could give me some sort of direction on how to go about doing this. so far, everything necessary for replacing a water pump is removed along with the passenger side motor mount and all the 10mm bolts surrounding the timing chain cover.

Link to Ilyak's "how to" sticky:
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/articles.php?article_id=68

PLEASE HELP!!!
Old Feb 12, 2011 | 01:36 PM
  #2  
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i wouldnt leave anything loose by the timing chains. if it binds or gets caught kiss that engine goodbye. take my advise do it right the first time. find the missing part and take it out. the cost of a tube or two of form a gasket to put the cover back on is ceaper than a motor. ( however i just scored one for 175 bucks lol...
Old Feb 12, 2011 | 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Maxima-4DSC
i wouldnt leave anything loose by the timing chains. if it binds or gets caught kiss that engine goodbye. take my advise do it right the first time. find the missing part and take it out. the cost of a tube or two of form a gasket to put the cover back on is ceaper than a motor. ( however i just scored one for 175 bucks lol...
yes that is quite obvious that i am not going to start my engine with a piece of metal lingering in my timing chain cover...however you haven't answered my question of "how to remove a timing chain cover"?
Old Feb 12, 2011 | 02:34 PM
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Drop the engine. Or Undo the mount on that side and try to jack it over as far as possible. Otherwise its pretty self explanitory.
Old Feb 12, 2011 | 04:12 PM
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i believe i read on this forum somewhere you have to pull the oil pan in order to remove 2 bolts for the cover itself that may be your only draw back you can pretty much see all the other bolts and their easily accessible and you also have to pull the harmonic balancer and replace the front crank seal
Old Feb 12, 2011 | 06:06 PM
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aww man that sucks. im sorry. but maxed out 99 is correct, you have to drop the oil pan to get to a couple of bolts holding the timing cover. as mentioned before, the crank pulley, the mount and mount bracket, theres a few bolts in the middle of the timing cover iirc. and then splitting the timing cover can be tedious...good luck man.
Old Feb 12, 2011 | 06:38 PM
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soooo....my dad is an engineer and designs ultrasounds for a living, he brought a long thin flexible tube with a tiny camera connected to the end which was hooked up to a laptop, we shoved it down the hole where the timing tensioner is. Took some time but we finally found the piston, picked it up with another flexible tube connected to a super strong magnet!! YAY! everything is in perfectly working condition now, THANKS FOR THE HELPFUL ADVICE! i still cannot believe how lucky i was.
Old Feb 12, 2011 | 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 96maxgxe
soooo....my dad is an engineer and designs ultrasounds for a living, he brought a long thin flexible tube with a tiny camera connected to the end which was hooked up to a laptop, we shoved it down the hole where the timing tensioner is. Took some time but we finally found the piston, picked it up with another flexible tube connected to a super strong magnet!! YAY! everything is in perfectly working condition now, THANKS FOR THE HELPFUL ADVICE! i still cannot believe how lucky i was.
you should sell the camera and magnet
i know id buy one
Old Feb 12, 2011 | 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 96maxgxe
soooo....my dad is an engineer and designs ultrasounds for a living, he brought a long thin flexible tube with a tiny camera connected to the end which was hooked up to a laptop, we shoved it down the hole where the timing tensioner is. Took some time but we finally found the piston, picked it up with another flexible tube connected to a super strong magnet!! YAY! everything is in perfectly working condition now, THANKS FOR THE HELPFUL ADVICE! i still cannot believe how lucky i was.

Nice!! Good Job! Thats clever thinking!! You are lucky indeed!
Old Feb 12, 2011 | 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by maxed_out_99
you should sell the camera and magnet
i know id buy one
Yup, for these VQ engines, the extension magnet is a mandatory tool. Had to use one for the same reason once...
Old Apr 6, 2011 | 09:21 PM
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Can you direct me to info/pic showing the timing chain cover bolts accessed via removal of the oil pan ? And maybe a link to the "how to remove the timing chain cover?"
Old Apr 8, 2011 | 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 72240z
Can you direct me to info/pic showing the timing chain cover bolts accessed via removal of the oil pan ? And maybe a link to the "how to remove the timing chain cover?"
If you drop the lower metal pan, theres 2 or 4 that are all the way on the outside towards it, they're pretty self-explanitory once you have the lower pan off and shine a flashlight up on it.

The first time I ever pulled a cover I forgot about the bottom bolts, and sat there for a good half hour trying to pry on the cover and whatnot until I had that "Wow, I'm dumb" moment.
Old Apr 8, 2011 | 04:07 PM
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Get a haynes repair manual. Everything is there in black and white.
Old Apr 16, 2011 | 01:52 PM
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Chiltons will not show the 2 Timing Chain cover bolts !

Originally Posted by maxed_out_99
i believe i read on this forum somewhere you have to pull the oil pan in order to remove 2 bolts for the cover itself that may be your only draw back you can pretty much see all the other bolts and their easily accessible and you also have to pull the harmonic balancer and replace the front crank seal
In order to the timing chain cover off, while engine is in the car, I referenced my manual for most steps, except the manual said remove the engine from the car, which I did not perform.
High level steps...
1) Drain oil and coolant. Remove the oil pan and remove the two 10 mm bolts on the Tire side of the oil pan that go up into the timing chain cover. Note Chiltons manual will not mention these two bolts. Put the oil pan back in place.
2) Remove fan belts for AC, pwr steering and Alternator
3) Disconnect the AC compressor and alternator. Note, I did NOT remove them just removed bolts that mount them to the engine. I then supported them via a jack stand.
4) Remove any sensors or wiring harness mounts on the time chain cover
5) Put a jack and jack stand under the engine oil pan and then remove the passenger side motor mount. Note, the motor mount is like a rubics cube, ie many pieces. Note, you can leave the large bottom stud in place. The cover will slide over it.
6) Remove the timing chain cover bolts, note Chiltons indicates a preferred sequence to remove them.

I only pulled the outer timing chain cover.. And did not see a harmonic balancer on my old lady, ie 1995.
Yes there are two rubber gaskets. One is round and slides over crankshaft after you have the timing cover in place and before you put the crankshaft pulley back on. The second rubber gasket is U shaped and fits on the bottom of the timing chain cover.

Note, I replaced the water pump, chain tensioner and main chain guide while in there. On my old lady the Chain guide and tensioner had been updated by Nissan.

Hope this helps...

Last edited by 72240z; Apr 16, 2011 at 01:57 PM.
Old Apr 16, 2011 | 07:34 PM
  #15  
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Hey 72, Im currently removing my Timing chain cover and am curious if the power steering pump or pulley needs to be removed to take the cover off. I have a 95 maxima. Thank you
Old Apr 17, 2011 | 08:26 AM
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Yes the pump needs to be removed. 2 bolts on the bracket and 1 long bolt from the back. No need to remove the hoses on the pump. Just let it hang.
Old Apr 17, 2011 | 04:22 PM
  #17  
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awesome thanks..maybe im going blind.i removed the adjuster bolt top and bottom..but where in the world is the 3rd one from the back?? lol..300 pounds and faat fingers sure dont help i guess..ha ha ha
Old Apr 18, 2011 | 12:39 PM
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AWSOME!!! found the bolt behind the power steering pump..HAVE TO SAY NISSAN WHY?? ha ha ha..worked on it for 4 hours and cant get it removed..bought two universal joints and extensions (thinner) and still no luck geting the angle i need to take it off..Rats!!
Old Apr 18, 2011 | 05:21 PM
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This ratchet just fits up in there with a shallow socket.

Its not easy thats for sure.
Old Apr 18, 2011 | 06:36 PM
  #20  
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JSUTTER YOU ARE THE MAAAAAN!!!! WITHT THE MASTER PLAN!!!!

Thanks
Old Apr 18, 2011 | 06:50 PM
  #21  
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is the bolt reversed thread?? i just snapped a socket..crafts man too..thank goodness life time warranty
Old Apr 18, 2011 | 07:58 PM
  #22  
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Then you get to try and pull the pump out of the way! It will be stuck so just keep wiggling and/or prying it from the mount.
Old Apr 19, 2011 | 01:24 PM
  #23  
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AWESOME!!! Pump is out. Jsutter thanks for the reply!!Well after removing power steering pump, the timing cover was easily taken off. Well my guess was right. Timing chain decided to jump a few teeth and hang around with a different set of teeth freinds..

Going to Set piston #1 to TDC align cam sprokets and hopefully when i bolt it back together this baby starts..Thinking of doing a how to vid. Shot out to jaaaaaaaaay sutttaaaaaaaaa!!!! woot woot!!
Old Oct 29, 2013 | 04:22 PM
  #24  
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Is there a solvent that will eat the glue holding the timing cover.in?
Old Oct 29, 2013 | 04:39 PM
  #25  
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From: KCK
Originally Posted by gruesome
Is there a solvent that will eat the glue holding the timing cover.in?


No.
Old Oct 29, 2013 | 04:46 PM
  #26  
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Just took out the oil pan bolts. The pan is still snugly in.
Old Oct 29, 2013 | 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by gruesome
Just took out the oil pan bolts. The pan is still snugly in.
Hammer and a putty knife.
Old Oct 29, 2013 | 07:28 PM
  #28  
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Carefully pry that mother off. Don't damage any mating surfaces.
Old Oct 30, 2013 | 03:15 AM
  #29  
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Thinking wood and tapping with a hammer, buying a new fel pro gasket after work
Old Oct 31, 2013 | 03:15 AM
  #30  
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Is it really necessary to pull that crossmember? Bolts aren't budging with half drive. I'm pushing myself away as I try to turn and I've been called wicked strong.
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