Engine Noise
02-16-2011, 01:17 PM
#1
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Engine Noise
I have a 95SE that I have owned since day 1. The car is coming up to 138,000 mostly highway kilometres (85,700 miles). I drove the car on the highway on the weekend 50 miles each way and it ran fine.
Today I went to the gym and and didn't drive too far. On the way home the engine started to make a loud ticking sound. I drove home and shut the engine off. I came out about a half an hour later and the noise was still there. I was going to take the car into a shop and get them to listen to the sound. After starting the car and getting about a block from home, I floored it and the sound went away. I drove 5 miles to the shop and it didn't come back.
They said if the sound comes back to drive there if I am close by and don't shut the engine off.
Has anyone had an experience like this? I thought maybe it was a timing tensioner problem but the guy I spoke to said not likely.
No codes were thrown.
Today I went to the gym and and didn't drive too far. On the way home the engine started to make a loud ticking sound. I drove home and shut the engine off. I came out about a half an hour later and the noise was still there. I was going to take the car into a shop and get them to listen to the sound. After starting the car and getting about a block from home, I floored it and the sound went away. I drove 5 miles to the shop and it didn't come back.
They said if the sound comes back to drive there if I am close by and don't shut the engine off.
Has anyone had an experience like this? I thought maybe it was a timing tensioner problem but the guy I spoke to said not likely.
No codes were thrown.
02-16-2011, 03:18 PM
#6
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I thought timing chain noise, but it went away after I floored the car.
I drove it again this afternoon and there was no noise. I am not leaking any oil and I checked it a couple of weeks ago. I will check it again when the engine is cold as I checked it earlier today and it was high on the dipstick. As I said the car does not leak oil and it does not burn a drop between oil changes. I use synthetic oil, Esso Extra XD3, 0w 30, last changed about 2,750 miles ago.
I drove it again this afternoon and there was no noise. I am not leaking any oil and I checked it a couple of weeks ago. I will check it again when the engine is cold as I checked it earlier today and it was high on the dipstick. As I said the car does not leak oil and it does not burn a drop between oil changes. I use synthetic oil, Esso Extra XD3, 0w 30, last changed about 2,750 miles ago.
02-16-2011, 04:27 PM
#7
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I checked the oil level just now after the car had been sitting for about an hour and a half. The oil level was fine.
Would a timing chain tensioner problem be on-again off-again? The noise did sound as though it was coming from within the engine, but when I booted it it stopped and there was all kinds of power. I need to get the benefit of the y-pipe more often, lol.
Would a timing chain tensioner problem be on-again off-again? The noise did sound as though it was coming from within the engine, but when I booted it it stopped and there was all kinds of power. I need to get the benefit of the y-pipe more often, lol.
02-16-2011, 05:20 PM
#8
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Per Consumer Guide Automotive, article on 4th Gen Maxima reliability:
Engine Noise: Noise from the front of the engine may be caused by excessive play in the timing chain for which a new tensioner and chain guide are required (1995 - 1996).
I actually went to the stealership with the car and told the guy at the service desk that I though the problem might relate to the tensioner. He pooh poohed that and told me that the timing chain can't be adjusted, nor can the tensioner be replaced. I knew for a fact that the tensioner can be replaced, but I didn't want to get into a pissing match with the guy.
I sure hope the noise does not return any time soon and does not relate to the tensioner.
I can't understand how I would have a problem at my mileage and given my driving habits. Despite the Budget y-pipe, I seldom get on the car hard anymore and rarely have in the past.
Engine Noise: Noise from the front of the engine may be caused by excessive play in the timing chain for which a new tensioner and chain guide are required (1995 - 1996).
I actually went to the stealership with the car and told the guy at the service desk that I though the problem might relate to the tensioner. He pooh poohed that and told me that the timing chain can't be adjusted, nor can the tensioner be replaced. I knew for a fact that the tensioner can be replaced, but I didn't want to get into a pissing match with the guy.
I sure hope the noise does not return any time soon and does not relate to the tensioner.
I can't understand how I would have a problem at my mileage and given my driving habits. Despite the Budget y-pipe, I seldom get on the car hard anymore and rarely have in the past.
02-17-2011, 05:34 AM
#9
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This is priceless.
Engine makes abnormal noise (something might be wrong?)
So lets try to beat on it and see if the noise goes away before one looks into it.
Common sense seems to be lacking here.
So lets try to beat on it and see if the noise goes away before one looks into it.
Common sense seems to be lacking here.
02-17-2011, 09:30 AM
#10
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I didn't fully floor it, I stepped firmly on the gas pedal for less than 2 seconds and the problem went away. Good common sense seems to have saved me a lot of money so far.
All I am looking for is some constructive input as to what may have been the source of the problem. I know you are a long-time member of the .org and would have expected more from you. I guess that is asking too much.
Have a nice day!
All I am looking for is some constructive input as to what may have been the source of the problem. I know you are a long-time member of the .org and would have expected more from you. I guess that is asking too much.
Have a nice day!
02-17-2011, 09:58 AM
#11
I actually went to the stealership with the car and told the guy at the service desk that I though the problem might relate to the tensioner. He pooh poohed that and told me that the timing chain can't be adjusted, nor can the tensioner be replaced. I knew for a fact that the tensioner can be replaced, but I didn't want to get into a pissing match with the guy.
. Can we have the name of this stealership for our records to not ever go there??
02-17-2011, 12:10 PM
#12
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King George Nissan, Surrey, British Columbia
This car is in mint condition. I had the infamous dreaded differential carrier bearing problem whereby I leaked gear oil for about 4 years. In August 2009 I had a CV boot split so I had the CV boots replaced, the bearings and seals replaced in the tranny and a new clutch kit installed, given the tranny was already out. Apart from that I have just had routine maintenance on the car for the most part.
I still have the original front brake pads in the car with lots of life left and haven't had to replace an alternator yet. I provide this background because when I went into the stealership, without even seeing the car, the idiot at the counter who told me that tensioners can't be replaced suggested that maybe it was time to buy a new car.
I left before I ripped him a new one!
I drove the car today and it runs fine. No noise. When the noise did occur yesterday the car was turned off before it got anywhere near operating temperature and was not fully warmed up on the way home when the noise occurred.
This car is in mint condition. I had the infamous dreaded differential carrier bearing problem whereby I leaked gear oil for about 4 years. In August 2009 I had a CV boot split so I had the CV boots replaced, the bearings and seals replaced in the tranny and a new clutch kit installed, given the tranny was already out. Apart from that I have just had routine maintenance on the car for the most part.
I still have the original front brake pads in the car with lots of life left and haven't had to replace an alternator yet. I provide this background because when I went into the stealership, without even seeing the car, the idiot at the counter who told me that tensioners can't be replaced suggested that maybe it was time to buy a new car.
I left before I ripped him a new one!
I drove the car today and it runs fine. No noise. When the noise did occur yesterday the car was turned off before it got anywhere near operating temperature and was not fully warmed up on the way home when the noise occurred.
02-17-2011, 12:53 PM
#13
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I have a 95SE that I have owned since day 1. The car is coming up to 138,000 mostly highway kilometres (85,700 miles). I drove the car on the highway on the weekend 50 miles each way and it ran fine.
Has anyone had an experience like this? I thought maybe it was a timing tensioner problem but the guy I spoke to said not likely.
No codes were thrown.
Has anyone had an experience like this? I thought maybe it was a timing tensioner problem but the guy I spoke to said not likely.
No codes were thrown.
I used to have a 93 max DOHC. That meant I had a timing chain instead of the belt. I had a tensioner issue for 2 years. It started soft and infrequent and progressively got louder and more frequent. the day the enigne finally died it ticked so loud it sound like a helicopter lol. It took 2 years to die.
My point is, the VQ30 uses a chain. that aint gonna break no time soon. And when its ready to snap, its gonna sound like hell.
The 95 tensioner is no longer made. THe 97 has the revised tensioner. To upgrade to the 97 tensioner u have to change the guides to the 97 style too. Its alot of work and prolly easier and more cost effective to swap engine. But u got plenty of time. There are plenty of ppl on the org with more frequent tick and the engine still going strong after 100k miles .
02-17-2011, 12:58 PM
#14
^ What that guy said.
but if you're gonna swap engines, unless you find a very low mileage one, i'd just drop the motor and take off the timing cover and re-do everything, good for another 300k+
but if you're gonna swap engines, unless you find a very low mileage one, i'd just drop the motor and take off the timing cover and re-do everything, good for another 300k+
02-17-2011, 04:19 PM
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Thanks, guys. I am hoping the noise was an inexplicable isolated event that will not reoccur anytime soon.
As stated, I run 0w30 synthetic oil. I always let the engine warm up for at least a minute and drive off like a granny. I am on the west coast of BC (suburb of Vancouver) and winters here are quite mild (most of the time).
No noises so far today.
As stated, I run 0w30 synthetic oil. I always let the engine warm up for at least a minute and drive off like a granny. I am on the west coast of BC (suburb of Vancouver) and winters here are quite mild (most of the time).
No noises so far today.
Last edited by Bobo; 02-17-2011 at 04:26 PM.
02-17-2011, 07:15 PM
#16
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Hey Bobo, Just wanted to say I probly wouldn't worry about it! I'm from Calgary, I bought a 96' gle with 300000km for $1500 a year ago, soon after the waterpump started leaking. Once I changed the waterpump and started the engine, it sounded like it was going to blow. Thanks to the 4th gen How to's sticky, I found this is normal, and after driving it hard for a minute, the noise went away. I've put 25000km on since, and I can hear a lil chain noise now. I should've changed the tensioner then. But anyway, thought this might be comforting news. If the noise comes back, maybe try 5w30 or even 10w30 syn oil and see if theres a difference. Otherwise try a chain tensioner. Good luck!
02-21-2011, 11:07 AM
#17
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Just sayin' on the chain tensioner issue because I've run into this myself (the reason I'M here), as cashoit said, the tensioner has been updated.... because it was a bad design. There is actually a service bulletin regarding the change, with the new guides and such. It is a huge job, 15 hours book time plus parts. Buying another engine would be a waste of money to my mind as anything, even low milers will have this inherent fault and it would seem that Bobos' car is about to demonstrate this. Perhaps a heavier oil would have prevented some problems as the tensioner is splash fed on the wear surfaces, 0-30w seems a little light to me, especially if you're on the wet coast where it rarely dips far below freezing. As far as the service guy at the dealer goes, he's just a sales boy, the real techs in the shop scoff at these twits as well.
02-24-2011, 01:03 PM
#18
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To date, the noise has not come back. I question whether the 0w30 oil is a problem. Wouldn't it warm up faster under winter conditions, providing improved viscosity? The car does not sit outdoors overnight. It is an unheated condo garage.
This vehicle will be driven a maximum of 4500 - 5000 miles per year for the forseeable future and who knows when I might encounter a tensioner problem. I am inclined to cross that bridge when I come to it as the vehicle is low mileage and in superb condition inside and out.
This vehicle will be driven a maximum of 4500 - 5000 miles per year for the forseeable future and who knows when I might encounter a tensioner problem. I am inclined to cross that bridge when I come to it as the vehicle is low mileage and in superb condition inside and out.
02-25-2011, 11:18 PM
#19
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I’m not sure what you mean by: “wouldn’t it warm up faster”, I don’t think the weight of the oil will affect the rate at which the oil or the engine heats up. I’m also not sure what you mean by “improved viscosity?” I’m guessing, but I think you mean; improved “flow” and “lubrication”. That said, I question whether the oil would be a problem as well. I have always preferred to run lighter synthetics in my vehicles with the belief that the faster flow when cold would prevent wear. Without getting into just another long winded oil debate, oil selection is a trade off at the best of times. Thinner oil moves to the tight places faster, thicker provides a better wear barrier. VI improvers try to provide the best of both worlds but they break down rapidly with heat and fuel contamination and are also blamed for causing sludge and carbon build up around oil control rings on pistons. That said, if you run a wide point spread like 0-30w, you should probably change the oil a little more frequently because when the VI improver breaks down, you’re left with a very light oil. My primary concern over the years has been getting oil into the valve train (hydraulic lifters and cam bearings) more rapidly. This has traditionally been where most wear and noise would develop. Now however and over the last few years many car manufacturers have moved away from timing belts and back to good old fashioned timing chains. Only now, the chains have multiple cams to deal with which requires the chain to be routed up and over things that requires tensioners and guides. These devices should probably be rollerized with pressure fed lubrication but they’re not. They are simple rubbing blocks with oil splashed on them. Cost, weight and size dictates this. The down side is rapid wear. If you could run thick gear oil inside the engine, the timing chain tensioners would likely last twice as long but the oil pump would explode when it tried to push the stuff through small galleries to the bearings. To me, and this is only my opinion, you should avoid wide point spread oil if you have an engine with a timing chain, especially if you live in a relatively warm area. It has too much VI improver that can cause problems. Since heavier oil provides a better wear barrier that the timing chain really needs, I would run 20-40w in the summer and 10-30w in the winter if it gets near the freezing point for any length of time. Again, this is only my opinion. I would suggest though, if you insist on running the 0-30w, change your oil religiously as you are doing short trips and this can contribute to rapid fuel contamination and VI breakdown.
02-26-2011, 08:23 AM
#20
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Following my initial OCI of the 0w-30 oil I sent in a sample to Blackstone Labs after 8,000 kilometres and 12 months on the nose. The analysis said I was good to go on all fronts and there was all kinds of TBN left. Blackstone emphasized that it is mileage, rather than time that was important. Hence the urban myth of 3 month OCI for dino oil is pure hog wash. I will probably send in another sample at the time I next change my oil. At the last oil change I added 4 oz. of AutoRx on a maintenance basis and according to Frank (the owner) that should extend my OCI by 20% on a mileage basis. I ran AutoRX through the engine before I switched to synthetic oil.
As far as I know, the 0w30 oil should enable the engine to come up to operating temperature faster. The VQ is meant to operate on 5w30 oil. I would avoid a 20w oil like the plague.
I haven't been on BITOG much lately, but from what I gather the Esso XD3 0w-30 oil is ideally suited for the VQ engine based on the consensus of a couple of years ago.
My car has mainly highway mileage on it. Although I have been doing more in-town driving for the past year, I am close to the freeway and give the car a run about once a week.
As far as I know, the 0w30 oil should enable the engine to come up to operating temperature faster. The VQ is meant to operate on 5w30 oil. I would avoid a 20w oil like the plague.
I haven't been on BITOG much lately, but from what I gather the Esso XD3 0w-30 oil is ideally suited for the VQ engine based on the consensus of a couple of years ago.
My car has mainly highway mileage on it. Although I have been doing more in-town driving for the past year, I am close to the freeway and give the car a run about once a week.
Last edited by Bobo; 02-26-2011 at 08:27 AM.
02-26-2011, 12:28 PM
#21
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Just quickly as I'm busy now. I would bet that none of the people that have given you advice on oil are familiar with specific problems related to the VQ tensoner and guide wear problems. The engine has zero difficulty with bearing lubrication as indicated by your oil exam. Typically oil analysis looks for metal, I'm curious, does Blackstone indicate how much plastic or nylon is in the sample? That is what the rubbing blocks are made of. Also, time between changes is critical IF you spend a year doing short trips. The engine will not go into closed loop and will spend a lot of time running way richer than stoich. if you're doing short hops and you will have fuel dilution in the oil! There is simply no way to avoid it. Anyone that tells you different is not doing you any favors.
02-26-2011, 03:19 PM
#22
I know for certain that there are three people in this thread that know what they are talking about and you arent on my list
My car did the same thing about 2 months ago, the noise went away like 2 minutes later, and I havent heard it since
02-26-2011, 04:52 PM
#23
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Lol! What year is your car, how long have you owned it and how many miles are on it? Any major issues in the past year?
I've owned mine since day 1 and epitomize the term **** retentive when it comes to it. I am not worried about the noise. It hasn't come back, touch wood.
From what I gather, any tensioner problems reported on the .org have been recognized at fairly high mileage. I am still not at 138,000 kilometres which is probably in the lowest 5% of 4th Gens out there, despite mine being a 95, so I think I am good to go for quite some time. The car still has the original alternator and front brake pads in it with lots of life in them yet.
I've owned mine since day 1 and epitomize the term **** retentive when it comes to it. I am not worried about the noise. It hasn't come back, touch wood.
From what I gather, any tensioner problems reported on the .org have been recognized at fairly high mileage. I am still not at 138,000 kilometres which is probably in the lowest 5% of 4th Gens out there, despite mine being a 95, so I think I am good to go for quite some time. The car still has the original alternator and front brake pads in it with lots of life in them yet.
02-26-2011, 05:08 PM
#24
Lol! What year is your car, how long have you owned it and how many miles are on it? Any major issues in the past year?
I've owned mine since day 1 and epitomize the term **** retentive when it comes to it. I am not worried about the noise. It hasn't come back, touch wood.
From what I gather, any tensioner problems reported on the .org have been recognized at fairly high mileage. I am still not at 138,000 kilometres which is probably in the lowest 5% of 4th Gens out there, despite mine being a 95, so I think I am good to go for quite some time. The car still has the original alternator and front brake pads in it with lots of life in them yet.
I've owned mine since day 1 and epitomize the term **** retentive when it comes to it. I am not worried about the noise. It hasn't come back, touch wood.
From what I gather, any tensioner problems reported on the .org have been recognized at fairly high mileage. I am still not at 138,000 kilometres which is probably in the lowest 5% of 4th Gens out there, despite mine being a 95, so I think I am good to go for quite some time. The car still has the original alternator and front brake pads in it with lots of life in them yet.
02-26-2011, 05:24 PM
#25
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Ignorance is bliss. I have a '95 as well and I've spent the last 35 years working on and rebuilding engines. I suspect that the last couple of comments reflect a lack of experience or knowledge and simply represent the typical "internet expertise" that seems to prevail when trying discuss something seriously without resorting to "lol" and making a joke of a discussion. Bobo, do you concede when someone tells you how to be a bean counter? Personally, I'm done, I guess the timing chain tensioner TSB that Nissan published was nonsense. Have a good weekend.
02-26-2011, 06:27 PM
#26
Ignorance is bliss. I have a '95 as well and I've spent the last 35 years working on and rebuilding engines. I suspect that the last couple of comments reflect a lack of experience or knowledge and simply represent the typical "internet expertise" that seems to prevail when trying discuss something seriously without resorting to "lol" and making a joke of a discussion. Bobo, do you concede when someone tells you how to be a bean counter? Personally, I'm done, I guess the timing chain tensioner TSB that Nissan published was nonsense. Have a good weekend.
Last edited by tigersharkdude; 02-26-2011 at 06:31 PM.
02-26-2011, 07:04 PM
#27
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i have a '96 GXE that's been doing that from time to time since about 85K miles (Currently she's got 95K on her), it's most likely nothing, my cousin had the same thing happen to her '96 GLE at about the same mileage and has never had a problem and she just sold it with 205K miles.
If you really want to fix it, don't try and make it go away next time it happens, keep the car running and get under the hood to figure out where it's coming from.
If you really want to fix it, don't try and make it go away next time it happens, keep the car running and get under the hood to figure out where it's coming from.
Last edited by Maximar; 02-26-2011 at 07:09 PM.
02-26-2011, 07:09 PM
#28
i have a '96 GXE that's been doing that from time to time since about 85K miles, it's most likely nothing, my cousin had the same thing happen to her '96 GLE at about the same mileage and has never had a problem and she just sold it with 205K miles.
If you really want to fix it, don't try and make it go away next time it happens, keep the car running and get under the hood to figure out where it's coming from.
If you really want to fix it, don't try and make it go away next time it happens, keep the car running and get under the hood to figure out where it's coming from.
02-26-2011, 09:21 PM
#29
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I cant believe 0w-30 is being used in the same sentence as vq30. Thinner weight oil will put much more wear on your motor. its simple facts. the vq30 is made to run off 10w-30 i dont care if your 0w-30 is synthetic or not. I ran a simple 5w-20 and my oil pressure sensor light came on. Imo the piston rings on a maxima are not meant to handle such thin weights. I bet your car is burning oil so your level is low cause the valve train to tick.
02-26-2011, 09:51 PM
#30
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I beg to differ. You don't have a clue what you are talking about.
The owners manual and Haynes manual call for 5w30 oil. Do you have either of these manuals?
As far as burning oil is concerned, I have owned this car since October 1, 1994 and have not had to add one drop of oil between oil changes, whatsoever. And as far as the valve train ticking, there was one isolated noise since October 1, 1994 and it went away the minute I stepped on the gas and hasn't returned in over a week and I have driven the car daily. Big frigging deal!
I live in British Columbia where it got down to -7 to -10 Celsius over night this week. I don't live in southern Florida.
The owners manual and Haynes manual call for 5w30 oil. Do you have either of these manuals?
As far as burning oil is concerned, I have owned this car since October 1, 1994 and have not had to add one drop of oil between oil changes, whatsoever. And as far as the valve train ticking, there was one isolated noise since October 1, 1994 and it went away the minute I stepped on the gas and hasn't returned in over a week and I have driven the car daily. Big frigging deal!
I live in British Columbia where it got down to -7 to -10 Celsius over night this week. I don't live in southern Florida.
I cant believe 0w-30 is being used in the same sentence as vq30. Thinner weight oil will put much more wear on your motor. its simple facts. the vq30 is made to run off 10w-30 i dont care if your 0w-30 is synthetic or not. I ran a simple 5w-20 and my oil pressure sensor light came on. Imo the piston rings on a maxima are not meant to handle such thin weights. I bet your car is burning oil so your level is low cause the valve train to tick.
02-27-2011, 08:21 AM
#31
I cant believe 0w-30 is being used in the same sentence as vq30. Thinner weight oil will put much more wear on your motor. its simple facts. the vq30 is made to run off 10w-30 i dont care if your 0w-30 is synthetic or not. I ran a simple 5w-20 and my oil pressure sensor light came on. Imo the piston rings on a maxima are not meant to handle such thin weights. I bet your car is burning oil so your level is low cause the valve train to tick.
02-27-2011, 08:54 AM
#32
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Bobo, this sounds like it could have been just a valve / lifter that started sticking for just a little bit. The fact that you heard it for just a little while and it went away (and also the fact that it went away when you revved the engine) also fits. If it is - nothing to worry about. Try doing a search. Sometimes seafoaming or running a good fuel system cleaner will make it go away if it re-appears (carbon buildup can make the valves 'stick' a bit).
02-27-2011, 11:07 AM
#33
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Thanks zoner. I used Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner last spring (not the fuel injector cleaner, but the cleaner that does the injectors and fuel delivery system) and haven't put all that many miles on the vehicle since. Previously I used Gumout Regane and have used Chevron Techron fuel injector in the past and BG02 at the stealership.
I am using AutoRX on a maintenance basis. I drove the car today and again no noise.
I am using AutoRX on a maintenance basis. I drove the car today and again no noise.
02-27-2011, 11:09 AM
#34
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02-27-2011, 06:09 PM
#35
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driving with a 0w-30 on a car thats never beat on would likely be fine. 0w-30 is mostly made for hybrids and fuel econ cars. They have motors to stand up to this low viscosity oil. If you beat on your car or "get on it every once in a while" you will have problems in the future. If you use your car for point a to point b you should consider buying a civic it will save you even more money on gas. Whats the point of owning a fast car without using it? Thats a waist imo.
02-27-2011, 06:25 PM
#36
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driving with a 0w-30 on a car thats never beat on would likely be fine. 0w-30 is mostly made for hybrids and fuel econ cars. They have motors to stand up to this low viscosity oil. If you beat on your car or "get on it every once in a while" you will have problems in the future. If you use your car for point a to point b you should consider buying a civic it will save you even more money on gas. Whats the point of owning a fast car without using it? Thats a waist imo.
02-27-2011, 08:51 PM
#37
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Been there, done that and got the t-shirt.
I pick my times and places as to when I get on it. British Columbia now has the toughest driving laws in Canada and they throw the book at you if you are going to fast, eg. 40 kmh above the speed limit.
I know what my car can do. I ran it about 1.5 inches above the top of the speedometer 14 years ago and know it can do 235 kmh+ and that was before the Budget y-pipe. It is also a 5-speed and I know how to drive it.
I pick my times and places as to when I get on it. British Columbia now has the toughest driving laws in Canada and they throw the book at you if you are going to fast, eg. 40 kmh above the speed limit.
I know what my car can do. I ran it about 1.5 inches above the top of the speedometer 14 years ago and know it can do 235 kmh+ and that was before the Budget y-pipe. It is also a 5-speed and I know how to drive it.
driving with a 0w-30 on a car thats never beat on would likely be fine. 0w-30 is mostly made for hybrids and fuel econ cars. They have motors to stand up to this low viscosity oil. If you beat on your car or "get on it every once in a while" you will have problems in the future. If you use your car for point a to point b you should consider buying a civic it will save you even more money on gas. Whats the point of owning a fast car without using it? Thats a waist imo.
03-02-2011, 06:02 PM
#38
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: saint john nb
Posts: 17
Based on the fact that you, in your own words you drive "like a granny", which can cause more varnish build up than usualy. one thing I would recomend would be to take your car on the highway once a week and drive it hard, really put it through it's paces. Before doing this it would be advisable toswitch to a thicker oil (given the climate you described 5W30 would provide adiquate protction, while being thin enough to have a reasonable fuel economy and starting characteristics)
03-03-2011, 04:04 AM
#39
0-w30 may break down faster because it has to be a 0 weight and a 30 weight in different aspects. however being that it has the w30 at the end means it is what the vq30 wants. now 0-w20 is 20 weight that would explain the issues.
personally i run mobil one 15k gold cap 5-w30 before choosing this oil i read the (cant remeber what it's called? white papers?) and it has the lowest flow point of any 5-w30 i could find. I feel this is good enough as when the vq30 was designed they did not have such high spec oil.
I am sure i am overkill even tho its 15k oil i change it @ 5k. I am **** but in my opinion oil is the #1 most important thing i can do to keep my baby runing for as long as possible.
That said i live in connecticut, i very rarley see neg temps. if i did i would use a block heater!(infact i almost added one this winter as it has been harsh)
personally i run mobil one 15k gold cap 5-w30 before choosing this oil i read the (cant remeber what it's called? white papers?) and it has the lowest flow point of any 5-w30 i could find. I feel this is good enough as when the vq30 was designed they did not have such high spec oil.
I am sure i am overkill even tho its 15k oil i change it @ 5k. I am **** but in my opinion oil is the #1 most important thing i can do to keep my baby runing for as long as possible.
That said i live in connecticut, i very rarley see neg temps. if i did i would use a block heater!(infact i almost added one this winter as it has been harsh)