Wat can I do to get more low end power??
OP, I would stick to 2.25 stock piping, and maybe a more free flowing performance muffler, or the 5th gen muffler is a popular choice. If you don't plan on doing the 00VI, then get the NWP spacers, and maybe a cold air intake, or other intake with long, free flowing piping. Although many guys like the stock air box for low end.
Last edited by ajm8127; Mar 23, 2011 at 05:23 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 4,005
From: Worcester, MA
Dude that's totally doable. 270 WHP VQ30DEK. 100 hp per liter is brake horse power, not wheel horsepower. Maybe I should have specified.
Restrictions don't add velocity, smaller free flowing piping does. The muffler alone isn't going to kill bottom end. The stock muffler is full of baffles to quite the exhaust, but these lower the velocity of the gas. If you take a stock car and do a 3" catback, then yes, you will loose bottom end from the reduced velocity of the gasses. But adding restrictions is never the answer.
OP, I would stick to 2.25 stock piping, and maybe a more free flowing performance muffler, or the 5th gen muffler is a popular choice. If you don't plan on doing the 00VI, then get the NWP spacers, and maybe a cold air intake, or other intake with long, free flowing piping. Although many guys like the stock air box for low end.
OP, I would stick to 2.25 stock piping, and maybe a more free flowing performance muffler, or the 5th gen muffler is a popular choice. If you don't plan on doing the 00VI, then get the NWP spacers, and maybe a cold air intake, or other intake with long, free flowing piping. Although many guys like the stock air box for low end.
//Edit, As interesting things were getting, we're way off topic now... I removed a bit from my original post to prevent further thread derailment.
Last edited by aackshun; Mar 22, 2011 at 01:43 PM.
What kind of muffler u runnin? If u got a high flow muffler, goin back to a stock muffler can add some flow restriction to increase flow velocity down low.
I think the problem u have is that your exhaust is setup to be high flowing up top. What kind of exhasut system u got?
I think the problem u have is that your exhaust is setup to be high flowing up top. What kind of exhasut system u got?
90hp/L on a NA is achievable.
Take a look at BMW engine that produce up to around 300hp from a 3L I6, or another example is the Honda S2000 - 220hp out of a 2.0L I4 = 110hp/L. Torque sucks because all that power is high end, but it's doable.
Now, long end power = more torque as someone said. And for that Y-pipe would probably be the first and biggest improvement. A larger TB would be next with the rest of the cat-back system following. That's going from highest bang/buck down.
From here on the only other way would be to shed weight. Flywheels, rims. From there on you will need tuning of the engine as well as interior work - forged pistons off the top of my head will shed a lil bit of moving weight. Though at that point you are looking at quite a bit in cost to open up an engine.
And of course - the easiest way to gain lots of power (but costly) is.... FORCED INDUCTION! For low end power the only way to go is a supercharger. Preferably twin screw or roots as a centrifugal S/C will operate in a range more similar to a turbo. (Before arguing that, look it it up. Twin screw WILL give you more compression down low, but less high up then a centrifugal) either way, S/C will give you boost when a Turbo won't yet.
Take a look at BMW engine that produce up to around 300hp from a 3L I6, or another example is the Honda S2000 - 220hp out of a 2.0L I4 = 110hp/L. Torque sucks because all that power is high end, but it's doable.
Now, long end power = more torque as someone said. And for that Y-pipe would probably be the first and biggest improvement. A larger TB would be next with the rest of the cat-back system following. That's going from highest bang/buck down.
From here on the only other way would be to shed weight. Flywheels, rims. From there on you will need tuning of the engine as well as interior work - forged pistons off the top of my head will shed a lil bit of moving weight. Though at that point you are looking at quite a bit in cost to open up an engine.
And of course - the easiest way to gain lots of power (but costly) is.... FORCED INDUCTION! For low end power the only way to go is a supercharger. Preferably twin screw or roots as a centrifugal S/C will operate in a range more similar to a turbo. (Before arguing that, look it it up. Twin screw WILL give you more compression down low, but less high up then a centrifugal) either way, S/C will give you boost when a Turbo won't yet.
Next I would do the spacers to increase the charge efficentcy by lowering the intake temperature. Colder air has more oxygen in the same volume.
Originally Posted by silencecalls
And for that Y-pipe would probably be the first and biggest improvement. A larger TB would be next with the rest of the cat-back system following. That's going from highest bang/buck down.
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 4,005
From: Worcester, MA
U shdnt really have a big loss. Maybe others with the same setup can chime in.
I got the short ram and bullet racing muffler, i havent noticed any big differences with the low end.
larger throttle body = more air movement with less pedal movement.
Supercharger, well to quote another member here "I still get around 25 on the highway but if I step on it I can see the gas gauge move, and it's not because I'm accelerating so fast"
Thats basically stock. Realistically man, are we talking real noticeable losses or u jus nit-picking lol??
U shdnt really have a big loss. Maybe others with the same setup can chime in.
I got the short ram and bullet racing muffler, i havent noticed any big differences with the low end.
U shdnt really have a big loss. Maybe others with the same setup can chime in.
I got the short ram and bullet racing muffler, i havent noticed any big differences with the low end.
That's a good start. I'm not familiar with Bosal. Is that a performance muffler?
Next I would do the spacers to increase the charge efficentcy by lowering the intake temperature. Colder air has more oxygen in the same volume.
Would a bigger throttle body like the PFTB really be a better bang for the buck improvement than the NWP spacers? For low end power, I wouldn't think the improved flow of the throttle body would have as much of an effect as it would if you were trying to get top end power.
Next I would do the spacers to increase the charge efficentcy by lowering the intake temperature. Colder air has more oxygen in the same volume.
Would a bigger throttle body like the PFTB really be a better bang for the buck improvement than the NWP spacers? For low end power, I wouldn't think the improved flow of the throttle body would have as much of an effect as it would if you were trying to get top end power.
Also, have you ever checked your ECU for codes? Just as a procedure thing to make sure everything is copacetic.
Best $/HP mod you can do is a 3.5 swap.
Everything else will just add up to be more expensive than a 3.5 and all you'll get is noise, power band shift, maybe moderate top end gains, unless you put A LOT of time and money into it.
The mid range power of a 3.5 is awesome. Best bang for buck.
Everything else will just add up to be more expensive than a 3.5 and all you'll get is noise, power band shift, maybe moderate top end gains, unless you put A LOT of time and money into it.
The mid range power of a 3.5 is awesome. Best bang for buck.
Best $/HP mod you can do is a 3.5 swap.
Everything else will just add up to be more expensive than a 3.5 and all you'll get is noise, power band shift, maybe moderate top end gains, unless you put A LOT of time and money into it.
The mid range power of a 3.5 is awesome. Best bang for buck.
Everything else will just add up to be more expensive than a 3.5 and all you'll get is noise, power band shift, maybe moderate top end gains, unless you put A LOT of time and money into it.
The mid range power of a 3.5 is awesome. Best bang for buck.
Best $/HP mod you can do is a 3.5 swap.
Everything else will just add up to be more expensive than a 3.5 and all you'll get is noise, power band shift, maybe moderate top end gains, unless you put A LOT of time and money into it.
The mid range power of a 3.5 is awesome. Best bang for buck.
Everything else will just add up to be more expensive than a 3.5 and all you'll get is noise, power band shift, maybe moderate top end gains, unless you put A LOT of time and money into it.
The mid range power of a 3.5 is awesome. Best bang for buck.
i even drove it from jersey to jacksonville, fl on 2 full tanks doing 75 or better the entire way...
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 4,005
From: Worcester, MA
U changed everything related to tuneup. Not getting any codes. And you have cleaned everything.
Have u check the TPS to make sure everything spec? What about accelerator cable? Even if u lost low end torque with Y-pipe, it shdnt be THAT noticeable. U try any chevron techron?
Ok then, if a woman can notice it, then it MUST be a problem.
U changed everything related to tuneup. Not getting any codes. And you have cleaned everything.
Have u check the TPS to make sure everything spec? What about accelerator cable? Even if u lost low end torque with Y-pipe, it shdnt be THAT noticeable. U try any chevron techron?
U changed everything related to tuneup. Not getting any codes. And you have cleaned everything.
Have u check the TPS to make sure everything spec? What about accelerator cable? Even if u lost low end torque with Y-pipe, it shdnt be THAT noticeable. U try any chevron techron?
Best $/HP mod you can do is a 3.5 swap.
Everything else will just add up to be more expensive than a 3.5 and all you'll get is noise, power band shift, maybe moderate top end gains, unless you put A LOT of time and money into it.
The mid range power of a 3.5 is awesome. Best bang for buck.
Everything else will just add up to be more expensive than a 3.5 and all you'll get is noise, power band shift, maybe moderate top end gains, unless you put A LOT of time and money into it.
The mid range power of a 3.5 is awesome. Best bang for buck.
+1
either full or hybrid you cant go wrong.
If you actually have the money to do that in the 1st place. Everything else may add up to be more expensive over the long run, but more than likely, it isnt all being bought at the same time, and alot of the things bolted onto the VQ30, can simply be swapped over if 3.5 swap is decided on. He may also not have big plans like an engine swap for the car. So I would start with the boltons first, but if you can afford, def consider a swap.
I'd say 3.5 swap FIRST, then start adding bolt-ons.
Actually, I'd say 3.5 swap first, then when bored of that, get a new car!
I can tell, if he's looking for more power, he's looking for MORE power. A few HP here from a $400 mod, a few HP there from a intake manifold swap won't satisfy the quest for more power. Every small step made to a bit more power will be lost on the ol' butt-dyno.
I'd say 3.5 swap FIRST, then start adding bolt-ons.
Actually, I'd say 3.5 swap first, then when bored of that, get a turbo!
I'd say 3.5 swap FIRST, then start adding bolt-ons.
Actually, I'd say 3.5 swap first, then when bored of that, get a turbo!
I can tell, if he's looking for more power, he's looking for MORE power. A few HP here from a $400 mod, a few HP there from a intake manifold swap won't satisfy the quest for more power. Every small step made to a bit more power will be lost on the ol' butt-dyno.
I'd say 3.5 swap FIRST, then start adding bolt-ons.
Actually, I'd say 3.5 swap first, then when bored of that, get a SC or small turbo
I'd say 3.5 swap FIRST, then start adding bolt-ons.
Actually, I'd say 3.5 swap first, then when bored of that, get a SC or small turbo
, remember, he wants low end and tq'y response!
read the ecu today and it came up with 2 codes one for the IAT SENSOR(which wasnt plugged in all the way.. and the rear o2 sensor(post cat). but i just read on here that tat sensor has NOTHING to do with performance.
1) Lose Weight
2) Buy lightweight wheels
3) Get rid of your sub/amps if you have any.
4) Make sure your tires have thread and right air pressure.
5) Carbon Fiber hood and trunk
6) Relocate battery to the trunk.
2) Buy lightweight wheels
3) Get rid of your sub/amps if you have any.
4) Make sure your tires have thread and right air pressure.
5) Carbon Fiber hood and trunk
6) Relocate battery to the trunk.
And a B5 S4 has NO low end... that car's fun is all at 4k-redline
fixed
Last edited by aackshun; Mar 29, 2011 at 08:30 AM.
im gonna have to disagree with you there... i LOVED my s4.. the boost came in at 1800 and pulled like a mother.... it was a pain in the *** to launch because of the AWD.. But if i came off the clutch right id OWN just about anything from a dead stop.....HEMIs included!!!!
im gonna have to disagree with you there... i LOVED my s4.. the boost came in at 1800 and pulled like a mother.... it was a pain in the *** to launch because of the AWD.. But if i came off the clutch right id OWN just about anything from a dead stop.....HEMIs included!!!!
Must have been.. some s4's did have the tendency to be finicky.. But at the time i had mine, my boy had a 5th gen and he hated the fact that he couldnt even stay close from a light or on the road..lol
A friend of mine has stock 5 speed B5 S4, I didn't notice it lacking any torque. I like his car, it fun to drive. My other vehicle weight 3400#'s and conservatively has 550+ ft-lbs that comes on nearly instantly, so I am a little spoiled when it comes to torque.
I personally think the gearing sucks in my I30 automatic, I don't know if the 5 speeds have such high gearing. I used to have a TPI Automatic Corvette for a toy, the TPI is a torque intake. The stock gears had 1-2 shift at 40mph and 2-3 near 80mph and if I punch it off the line without brake torquing it sort of lagged, much like my I30. I swapped in the optional performance gear ratio that was available from the factory and it made made a world of difference. My Corvette was a lot more fun to drive. (it dropped my shift points down 35 and 70) and if I got into the gas off the line without a racing start it took off. I later swapped in the smallest aftermarket gear ratio available and it drove like crap, it felt like an over geared pickup truck, so its a fine line.
I personally think the gearing sucks in my I30 automatic, I don't know if the 5 speeds have such high gearing. I used to have a TPI Automatic Corvette for a toy, the TPI is a torque intake. The stock gears had 1-2 shift at 40mph and 2-3 near 80mph and if I punch it off the line without brake torquing it sort of lagged, much like my I30. I swapped in the optional performance gear ratio that was available from the factory and it made made a world of difference. My Corvette was a lot more fun to drive. (it dropped my shift points down 35 and 70) and if I got into the gas off the line without a racing start it took off. I later swapped in the smallest aftermarket gear ratio available and it drove like crap, it felt like an over geared pickup truck, so its a fine line.
A friend of mine has stock 5 speed B5 S4, I didn't notice it lacking any torque. I like his car, it fun to drive. My other vehicle weight 3400#'s and conservatively has 550+ ft-lbs that comes on nearly instantly, so I am a little spoiled when it comes to torque.
I personally think the gearing sucks in my I30 automatic, I don't know if the 5 speeds have such high gearing. I used to have a TPI Automatic Corvette for a toy, the TPI is a torque intake. The stock gears had 1-2 shift at 40mph and 2-3 near 80mph and if I punch it off the line without brake torquing it sort of lagged, much like my I30. I swapped in the optional performance gear ratio that was available from the factory and it made made a world of difference. My Corvette was a lot more fun to drive. (it dropped my shift points down 35 and 70) and if I got into the gas off the line without a racing start it took off. I later swapped in the smallest aftermarket gear ratio available and it drove like crap, it felt like an over geared pickup truck, so its a fine line.
I personally think the gearing sucks in my I30 automatic, I don't know if the 5 speeds have such high gearing. I used to have a TPI Automatic Corvette for a toy, the TPI is a torque intake. The stock gears had 1-2 shift at 40mph and 2-3 near 80mph and if I punch it off the line without brake torquing it sort of lagged, much like my I30. I swapped in the optional performance gear ratio that was available from the factory and it made made a world of difference. My Corvette was a lot more fun to drive. (it dropped my shift points down 35 and 70) and if I got into the gas off the line without a racing start it took off. I later swapped in the smallest aftermarket gear ratio available and it drove like crap, it felt like an over geared pickup truck, so its a fine line.
, I know of some people who'd be interested lol.
Unfortunately the I30 is sluggish due to the VQ30DEK. All of the 5th gen AT's I have driven were noticeably slower than my 4th gen was with the original VQ30DE. Back in 2001 I was gonna buy a new car, and I looked at a Anniversary Edition Maxima w/5MT. I test drove it back to back with a Celica GT-S and I felt the GT-S was quicker than I expected and the Maxima was slower than I expected.
Hemi, HEMI what?
Titan with VK56>HEMI Trucks
3.5 swap Maxima keeps up with the 5.7l HEMI cars every time. Now I'm no Maxima fan, but the 300C and Charger are wayyyy uglier than a max, and a max ain't beautiful to begin with!
Hemi, HEMI what?
Titan with VK56>HEMI Trucks
3.5 swap Maxima keeps up with the 5.7l HEMI cars every time. Now I'm no Maxima fan, but the 300C and Charger are wayyyy uglier than a max, and a max ain't beautiful to begin with!
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 4,005
From: Worcester, MA
I agree. I test drove a 4th gen and a 5th gen, both MT. the 5th gen was no quicker than a 4th gen, but the 5th gen was 1500 bucks more. I went with the 4th gen
But still, isn't the 5 Gen only like 200 pounds heavier, but has 32 more HP than the 4 Gen? You'd think it'd go better than they do....
