I've got a 98 5spd.. And the car is quick but the power doesn't really kick in until around 3000 rpm.. I've got a warpspeed y pipe and it has a fresh tune up, but past that it's stock. I plan on doin a 00vi swap soon, but from what I've read that just boosts top end. Suggestions please...

 

3.5 swap or buy a new car.

 

This. You can try a lightweight flywheel. It wont give you any more power, but will free up some power you already have and will improve acceleration.

 

Smaller y-pipe piping.

 

yea i was gonna say UDP and/or Fidanza Flywheel

 

Eaton Super charger. I know where there are a couple 3-71 jimmy blowers, hmmm...

 

got to admit...aside from my ypipe back...my flywheel was my next best bang for buck purchase i made...i love it. acceleration is way better, and it revs like a mother too

while yes it does drop revs quickly, but if you're actually racing, you'll learn quickly how to solve that problem

 

Ok so next step will be the flywheel. Now my question is.. Obviously the fidanza would be the best option, but I saw an eBay one that was fairly cheaper. So the question is, is that gonna be one of those get what you pay for deals where it's gonna be something that I hbe to replace again soon? And also should I go with a stage 2 clutch while I'm in that neighborhood?

 

you get what you pay for.

 

i got my flywheel and clutch from competition clutch...

 

No need for a stg.II clutch IMO, just a waste of money, my exedy stg.I bit plenty hard up until the bitter end.

 

Go with a larger TB, install some headers, Port match all intake and exhaust mating surface junctions....add more ignition timing, install a NWP spacer kit, and lengthen you intake system slightly.....

 

Umm, what does that mean? lol

 

I only say stage 2, because I wanna go turbo after I do the flywheel and the 00vi. But if the stage 1 will grab just as hard.. Then that's a go.

 

where can these parts be had? obviously the port match is not a part to buy

 

buy some lightweight wheels

 

15" lightweight wheels at that!!!!!!!!! Smaller diameters promote more torque.....

 

port match the entire intake and exhaust to ensure uninterupted air flow...NWP spacers (we have you been?), larger Pathfinder TB, go with a Hybrid SRI featuring a 6"intake filter and velocity stack and adapter, 15" super lightweight wheels and a JWT ECU if not affordable a 2 degree advance from a local dealer and some headers......search it's all there!

I'm a believer in the 00VI IM, a lightweight flywheel accelerates just as fast as it decel's....So it not as important if this is a Mostly street ride

All this stuff is found if you search the classifieds or search for them.....the 4th Gen are awesome cars and if you have the money JWT would be the first thing I would do.....or the last thing if you're short on money...I have one on my 3rd and it's night and day when compared to the stock ECU!!!!

 

one word NITROUS camaro?? where? oh yeah in the mirror

 

All this stuff is found if you search the classifieds or search for them.....the 4th Gen are awesome cars and if you have the money JWT would be the first thing I would do.....or the last thing if you're short on money...I have one on my 3rd and it's night and day when compared to the stock ECU!!!![/QUOTE]

yeah i thought of an ecu but i have a 99 so for me its not so easy

 

Short Ram intakes see power gains before cold air intakes do

 

O noticed better liw end with the 00vi due to it being plastic

 

A short ram or hybrid intake if you are currently running the stock intake.

 

unfortunately 4th gens dont work the same way 5th gens and up do. the advance can be done, but it goes away as soon as you turn the car off. with that being said, if yall want timing advances you gotta do it indirectly or with an EU or jwt or something like that.

 

just purchased an unorthodox UDP... see what i get when i throw that on..

 

Whatchu talkin 'bout willis? You got like 2-4 pins to swap over then it's a 96 ecu..... I'm doing it soon (in a few months, I'll have it in before Maxus), when I finish it, I'll make note of it in my blog.

You're up to date on ALL maintenance? Our cars are attention ****** when it comes to fuel/spark related things....

If you don't want any more bolt ons then work on making anything that turns lighter... EG. Crank Pulley, Wheels, Flywheel....

 

yea i am.. i have brand new NGK plugs, new coils, new fuel filter, and K&N drop in air filter.
And i dont mind bolt ons.. like i said i just bought the underdrive pulley... in the process of buying an 00vi...and im looking for an orger selling a fidanza but as far as my wheels... i love my g35s. i dont think im ready to get rid of them yet.

 

I'm on the fence about my g35s, it's everyone else who keep complimenting me on them is why they're still on my car. They're so heavy, it's the reason why I have a second set of rims for racing, there was a noticeable difference between my G35 rims and my Stang rims which weighed 5lbs less a piece.

 

same here on the g35s.... i get nothing but compliments on them... and its just a good feeling... but right now i have my blacked out stock 16s on the front and the staggered g35s on the back...

 

The two main ways to increase torque (more commonly referred to as low end power when speaking in terms of relatively low engine speeds) are to get more air into the cylinder (bigger boom), and time the spark so that as the gases in the cylinder are expanding after ignition, they reach their maximum pressure just as the crank shaft is 90 degrees relative to the connection rod (better mechanical advantage).

The thing that complicates engine tuning is that for a given engine speed, the flow dynamics of the intake and exhaust gasses will be different than at any other speed. For low engine speed, you want to keep the velocity of those gases high to increase the charge efficiency in the intake, and the scavenging effect in the exhaust. This helps get more air into the cylinders. For high engine speeds, you also want these velocity's to be high, but the problem is the volume of gas is much, much greater as well. So if your intake and exhaust remain constant, you must make a trade off somewhere. To tune an engine to perform best in the lower rpm range, the intake piping should be relatively long, and the exhaust piping relatively narrow. Think cold air intake, and stock exhaust diameter. Both should be free flowing as well - think port matching and aftermarket y-pipes.

Another way to get more air molecules into a cylinder is to lower the intake temperature (make the air more dense). This is where the NWP spacers come into play, especially with the vq30 USIM, which is made of aluminum, a very good conductor of heat. You can also physically force more air into a cylinder with a turbo or super charger, but these setups can be expensive and maintenance intensive.

Spark timing needs to be tuned to obtain maximum cylinder pressure when the connecting rod and crank shaft are 90 degrees relative to each other. This is what the Emanage Ultimate is for, though I believe you can advance timing using a VAFC as well by tricking the ECU and causing it to use different cells in the timing map. There is an EU on sale right now in the classified for a good price. This tuning is most effective on a dyno. You can also set your air fuel ratio using the EU, which can make combustion more efficient, by also allows you to control cylinder temperatures somewhat to achieve more spark advance. You can have too much advance, though. Consider a cylinder in which the combustion gasses reach maximum pressure after the connection rod and crank shaft pass 90 degrees relative to one another.

Lightening anything that spins is a good way to "unlock" power that was used before to change the speed of the spinning object. If your flywheel weighs 20 pounds, it will take twice as much power to increase its speed as it would take to increase the speed of a ten pound flywheel the same amount in the same span of time. This is where light weight flywheels and light weight wheels come into play. An old adage in racing is one pound taken off any rotating part equates to two pounds taken off any static part. While not physically accurate, the point is that taking weight off the spinning parts of your car will absolutely make the car feel more powerful than the same amount of weight taken off any non-spinning part.

I think the bottom line with the VQ30 is that unless you want to use forced induction (turbo/supercharger), to get good power naturally aspirated, you need to get the rpms high and have the engine properly tuned for high rpms. The main limiting factor here is the displacement, and there isn't much you can do about that except moving to a bigger engine (VQ35).

 

Man I was with you fist pumping the whole way reading your post until here....

What is your definition of good power? Cause in the world of motors neither motor makes good power..... Decent at best.

There are tons of motors making great power at the low end, it's all about where your peak VE is, on our motors Nissan intended it to be around 4.5k, you can tune (modify) your power band anywhere you want, just how much $$$ and time are you willing to put into it? Don't just fall for the Honda philosophy, Screw TQ, make HP. Shelby said it best, TQ wins races, HP sells cars.

 

False. Smaller overal diameter of the tire "promotes" more torque by lowering the overall final drive ratio. While gaining torque, you loose top speed. Think feet of travel per engine revolution. Same as a lower final drive gears.

Wheel diameter alone will not affect performance one bit.

 

Good post AJm and all very accurate and truthful points.

OP, If u still got stock wheels then i wd say to try those out and see how the car responds.

 

My scope was limited to an N/A VQ30de(k). "Good power" means 90-100 hp per liter with a nice smooth power curve from about 4.5k up. Even if the VQ30 had a peak VE at 2000 rpm, it still is only 3 liters, and you can only get so much boom from 3 liters.

 

i have my stocks on the front right now since te wonderful state of nj caused me 2 bent front rims... and yup.. same issue...

 

Well with all the rotating parts, no car engine can achieve that feat without some sort of FI.

The point of a car engine is to power and drive a car, not to make power.

 

What feat are you talking about, specifically?

 

What kind of muffler u runnin? If u got a high flow muffler, goin back to a stock muffler can add some flow restriction to increase flow velocity down low.

I think the problem u have is that your exhaust is setup to be high flowing up top. What kind of exhasut system u got?

 

90-100HP per liter.

 

Dude that's totally doable. 270 WHP VQ30DEK. 100 hp per liter is brake horse power, not wheel horsepower. Maybe I should have specified.