craigslist find of the day
craigslist find of the day
found this mint 98 on craislist.. too bad its autotragic other then that its amazing
http://newhaven.craigslist.org/ctd/2225642754.html
http://newhaven.craigslist.org/ctd/2225642754.html
I hate when people place an add without something as important as the price. I live close to there. I should go there and ask him if he knows the motor is falling out due to the rotted rad support after he hits me with the big secret price.
DO IT!!!!! then update us lol
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 36
I used to sell cars for a franchised dealer, and not listing the price is a very wise thing to do. Why? It depends on how people emotionally sense they are getting a good deal and will buy the car today. Today is important, because if they don't buy right now, there is a 98% (give or take) chance that they are not going to buy from you. Car buyers have trained the dealers: it's now or never.
You may be different, but the dealership doesn't know that and can only work the averages.
Back to price.
There are only a handful of ways people know they got a good deal.
1. Utility value, i.e. how much money is spent for how much utility received. These people are quite rare.
2. Market price, i.e. how much "under book" the price is.
3. Discount, i.e. how much the price drops from the original price.
4. Loss, i.e. how much money the dealer is losing.
Believe it or not, dealerships are in the business of making a profit. Also believe it or not, they lose money on some cars, often 5% to 10% of those sold. Why sell at a loss? If they bought a car wrong, they must do something with it, and the older it is in inventory, the more pressure they have to unload it.
Back to price. If a dealership posts a price, which one should they post? Should they post it at acquisition cost and lose all profit potential? Should they post it with a moderate margin?
Whatever price they post, if it's too high, you won't bother showing up to see the car. If it's too low, they leave money on the table.
Once you show up and they know what kind of buyer you are (one through four above), they can set the price appropriately.
If you are a utility-value buyer (which is me) then they focus on the utility of the car and give you a price sufficiently low enough to make a sale.
If you are a market buyer, they price it low enough under book to make a sale.
If you are a discount buyer, they price it high enough that they can discount it enough to make a sale and make a few bucks in the process.
If you are a loss buyer, they show you the models they bought wrong and have to unload at a loss.
We all have our quirks and think other buying styles are foolish. For me, I don't care what others have paid for the same car (blue book); I care what I pay. I don't care how much the price drops (discount); I care what the final price is, wherever the price started. I don't care how much the dealer makes or loses; if they paid too much for a car, I'm not going to pony up for it, even at a steep loss. On the flip side, I don't care if they paid zero for the car. I care what I pay for the car.
You may be different, but the dealership doesn't know that and can only work the averages.
Back to price.
There are only a handful of ways people know they got a good deal.
1. Utility value, i.e. how much money is spent for how much utility received. These people are quite rare.
2. Market price, i.e. how much "under book" the price is.
3. Discount, i.e. how much the price drops from the original price.
4. Loss, i.e. how much money the dealer is losing.
Believe it or not, dealerships are in the business of making a profit. Also believe it or not, they lose money on some cars, often 5% to 10% of those sold. Why sell at a loss? If they bought a car wrong, they must do something with it, and the older it is in inventory, the more pressure they have to unload it.
Back to price. If a dealership posts a price, which one should they post? Should they post it at acquisition cost and lose all profit potential? Should they post it with a moderate margin?
Whatever price they post, if it's too high, you won't bother showing up to see the car. If it's too low, they leave money on the table.
Once you show up and they know what kind of buyer you are (one through four above), they can set the price appropriately.
If you are a utility-value buyer (which is me) then they focus on the utility of the car and give you a price sufficiently low enough to make a sale.
If you are a market buyer, they price it low enough under book to make a sale.
If you are a discount buyer, they price it high enough that they can discount it enough to make a sale and make a few bucks in the process.
If you are a loss buyer, they show you the models they bought wrong and have to unload at a loss.
We all have our quirks and think other buying styles are foolish. For me, I don't care what others have paid for the same car (blue book); I care what I pay. I don't care how much the price drops (discount); I care what the final price is, wherever the price started. I don't care how much the dealer makes or loses; if they paid too much for a car, I'm not going to pony up for it, even at a steep loss. On the flip side, I don't care if they paid zero for the car. I care what I pay for the car.
Ok guys, I went down and talked to the salesman, who informed me that the car had recently been marked down from $7900 to $6900. Lol! Not only that, but it had accident damage to the rear passenger door and rocker. I was so amused by this that I couldn't even wait to get to my computer to post so I'm Posting from my phone.
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 36
Whether or not you get "screwed" is also your own perception.
There are very few facts involved when determining the value of something to a person.
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 16
From: Plainfield NJ
when I bought my 98 maxima in '05 for 3500 at 125,000 miles I thought I paid too much for it, however it was comfortable enough, black which I liked (hard to find a color you like when you buy used), and had enough power that I didn't feel I was in a heavy sedan having had coupes before the maxima. Now almost 6 years later and so close to 200,000 miles I am satisfied with it and all we have been through.
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 26
From: Salem, OR
I'm not sure I understand this point... Is it like saying how much car you get for the money you spend? What would a utility value person be thinking as he is going to buying a car? How is it different from the KBB buyer?
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 36
As an example, in the past few years the previous generation Taurus was horribly valued in the market, and maybe for good reason. About two years ago a friend of mine was looking for a late model, nondescript, low mileage sedan for business purposes. It could have been a Honda, Ford, Chrysler, whatever -- he didn't care.
He expected to get a certain amount of use out of it and wanted it to last two or three years before he basically would throw it away. He was looking for utility only, so KBB was nowhere in that calculation. From his perspective, most sedans were basically the same, but the Taurus was selling at a deep discount relative to others, so he bought a three year old car, in nice shape, with 25k-ish miles for about $6,000. He was laughing the whole time about how much car he was getting for the money.
That's a utility buyer. Make sense?
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 73
From: Mansfield, Texas
I guess I would be a market/utility buyer. What I do is research down to exactly what I want. Then narrow down to up to 6 examples at local dealers and individuals that meet my utility requirements IE miles, mechanical condition, body condition. Then I research NADA trade value on each vehicle. Once I have completed all that, I go to each seller and leave a note with the sales manager or owner of the car with a phone number and offer price. "OUT THE DOOR PRICE FOR A DEALER." When they ask me to stay to negotiate, I tell them I am too busy to stay, because I MUST buy one of the 6 cars that I am looking at today and will buy the first one that accepts my offer immediately. Then I tell the manager to call me as soon as he works out the deal for me to sign at my price because I need to get a car today, as I walk out the door. It is important that they understand that they have an immediate buyer if they can work the deal and want to move the unit. Otherwise, they will not take you serious.
I used to sell cars for a franchised dealer, and not listing the price is a very wise thing to do. Why? It depends on how people emotionally sense they are getting a good deal and will buy the car today. Today is important, because if they don't buy right now, there is a 98% (give or take) chance that they are not going to buy from you. Car buyers have trained the dealers: it's now or never.
You may be different, but the dealership doesn't know that and can only work the averages.
Back to price.
There are only a handful of ways people know they got a good deal.
1. Utility value, i.e. how much money is spent for how much utility received. These people are quite rare.
2. Market price, i.e. how much "under book" the price is.
3. Discount, i.e. how much the price drops from the original price.
4. Loss, i.e. how much money the dealer is losing.
Believe it or not, dealerships are in the business of making a profit. Also believe it or not, they lose money on some cars, often 5% to 10% of those sold. Why sell at a loss? If they bought a car wrong, they must do something with it, and the older it is in inventory, the more pressure they have to unload it.
Back to price. If a dealership posts a price, which one should they post? Should they post it at acquisition cost and lose all profit potential? Should they post it with a moderate margin?
Whatever price they post, if it's too high, you won't bother showing up to see the car. If it's too low, they leave money on the table.
Once you show up and they know what kind of buyer you are (one through four above), they can set the price appropriately.
If you are a utility-value buyer (which is me) then they focus on the utility of the car and give you a price sufficiently low enough to make a sale.
If you are a market buyer, they price it low enough under book to make a sale.
If you are a discount buyer, they price it high enough that they can discount it enough to make a sale and make a few bucks in the process.
If you are a loss buyer, they show you the models they bought wrong and have to unload at a loss.
We all have our quirks and think other buying styles are foolish. For me, I don't care what others have paid for the same car (blue book); I care what I pay. I don't care how much the price drops (discount); I care what the final price is, wherever the price started. I don't care how much the dealer makes or loses; if they paid too much for a car, I'm not going to pony up for it, even at a steep loss. On the flip side, I don't care if they paid zero for the car. I care what I pay for the car.
You may be different, but the dealership doesn't know that and can only work the averages.
Back to price.
There are only a handful of ways people know they got a good deal.
1. Utility value, i.e. how much money is spent for how much utility received. These people are quite rare.
2. Market price, i.e. how much "under book" the price is.
3. Discount, i.e. how much the price drops from the original price.
4. Loss, i.e. how much money the dealer is losing.
Believe it or not, dealerships are in the business of making a profit. Also believe it or not, they lose money on some cars, often 5% to 10% of those sold. Why sell at a loss? If they bought a car wrong, they must do something with it, and the older it is in inventory, the more pressure they have to unload it.
Back to price. If a dealership posts a price, which one should they post? Should they post it at acquisition cost and lose all profit potential? Should they post it with a moderate margin?
Whatever price they post, if it's too high, you won't bother showing up to see the car. If it's too low, they leave money on the table.
Once you show up and they know what kind of buyer you are (one through four above), they can set the price appropriately.
If you are a utility-value buyer (which is me) then they focus on the utility of the car and give you a price sufficiently low enough to make a sale.
If you are a market buyer, they price it low enough under book to make a sale.
If you are a discount buyer, they price it high enough that they can discount it enough to make a sale and make a few bucks in the process.
If you are a loss buyer, they show you the models they bought wrong and have to unload at a loss.
We all have our quirks and think other buying styles are foolish. For me, I don't care what others have paid for the same car (blue book); I care what I pay. I don't care how much the price drops (discount); I care what the final price is, wherever the price started. I don't care how much the dealer makes or loses; if they paid too much for a car, I'm not going to pony up for it, even at a steep loss. On the flip side, I don't care if they paid zero for the car. I care what I pay for the car.
Last edited by txsilverado1; Feb 27, 2011 at 06:00 AM.
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