AC Recharge in a '95 SE
#1
AC Recharge in a '95 SE
Tried a search and didn't find much that was helpful...
I have a '95 SE Auto which the A/C apparently worked okay in last summer (but not great). Now, if I put it on it will blow air that is cooler than what's in the car or outside, but not significantly cooler. I have a feeling that all the components/lines are fine, but I'm not 100% sure of this.
I'd like to have it working for summer, and I think a recharge will do it.
Questions: Is this still using R-12, or is it R-134a? My understanding is that R-134a is a piece of cake to recharge (I've successfully done it on a '99 Taurus before), but R-12 is more difficult because the system has to be drained first so the two don't mix.
Does it sound relatively likely that this is all it needs?
Thanks!
I have a '95 SE Auto which the A/C apparently worked okay in last summer (but not great). Now, if I put it on it will blow air that is cooler than what's in the car or outside, but not significantly cooler. I have a feeling that all the components/lines are fine, but I'm not 100% sure of this.
I'd like to have it working for summer, and I think a recharge will do it.
Questions: Is this still using R-12, or is it R-134a? My understanding is that R-134a is a piece of cake to recharge (I've successfully done it on a '99 Taurus before), but R-12 is more difficult because the system has to be drained first so the two don't mix.
Does it sound relatively likely that this is all it needs?
Thanks!
#2
Compressor should state what type of freon on it. To my knowledge it is r134 on yours. R12 you have to have a license (technically) to purchase it.
You should have an experience person hook it up to vacuum and check for leaks. Do it right the first time, so you don't have to waste money on freon twice.
You should have an experience person hook it up to vacuum and check for leaks. Do it right the first time, so you don't have to waste money on freon twice.
#4
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
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The only way to get a proper charge on your R134 system is the evacuate and recharge by weight. Let a shop with an A/C machine do the service for you. You'll have ice cold air when it's done correctly.
#6
Sounds like a very slight leak. Try a recharge yourself with R-134a; easy and relatively cheap to do. If it doesn't hold refrigerant, then you need a pro to diagnose and fix.
#7
Get a shop to do it, but shop around and don't pick the 1st one. Ask them to put the dye into the system. This will help pinpoint where a leak originates from if the R134a leaks out.
Also there is only one compressor. It operates both the air conditioner and the defrost. You should use the defrost periodically year round, if you are not inclined to use the AC very often. It will keep the seals lubricated and minimize the risk of the R134a escaping.
Also there is only one compressor. It operates both the air conditioner and the defrost. You should use the defrost periodically year round, if you are not inclined to use the AC very often. It will keep the seals lubricated and minimize the risk of the R134a escaping.
#8
Where in MA are you? If you're on the South Shore, I have an AC shop in Carver (at least it was there 8 years ago when I used them on my 95 SE) that I could recommend.
#9
Get a shop to do it, but shop around and don't pick the 1st one. Ask them to put the dye into the system. This will help pinpoint where a leak originates from if the R134a leaks out.
Also there is only one compressor. It operates both the air conditioner and the defrost. You should use the defrost periodically year round, if you are not inclined to use the AC very often. It will keep the seals lubricated and minimize the risk of the R134a escaping.
Also there is only one compressor. It operates both the air conditioner and the defrost. You should use the defrost periodically year round, if you are not inclined to use the AC very often. It will keep the seals lubricated and minimize the risk of the R134a escaping.
Again, thanks for the input everyone!
Last edited by jas1203; 04-01-2011 at 08:57 AM.
#10
I'm sure your compressor is fine. The R134a can escape. It happened to me twice in my 95SE. The 1st time was after several years (replaced July 2003), then again in June 2006. I don't use the AC that often and may have been guilty during this 3-year period of not using the defrost often enough. In June 2006, I had the dye put in.
So going on 5 years have elapsed and I am still good to go and am more conscious of using the defroster more often and putting the AC on once in awhile.
So going on 5 years have elapsed and I am still good to go and am more conscious of using the defroster more often and putting the AC on once in awhile.
#12
Yo man, this is too much work for what is prolly a undercharged system. Buy some freon or at least the guage and see ft u are low. Then refill. THe haynes will tell u how. It really isnt hard at all.
U only need AC for the summertime. So what if there is a small leak. All it means is that u need to recharge every yr or maybe even 2. 20 bucks and u got AC again. Am i missin somethin here?????????? And Im willing to bet that the compressor is fine. The compressors on these car dont fail often
Im in worcster if u need a lil help man.
U only need AC for the summertime. So what if there is a small leak. All it means is that u need to recharge every yr or maybe even 2. 20 bucks and u got AC again. Am i missin somethin here?????????? And Im willing to bet that the compressor is fine. The compressors on these car dont fail often
Im in worcster if u need a lil help man.
#13
#14
Depends on the leak, could be a week or a few months. You need to have someone use the dye to help pinpoint and fix it. My suction line had a crack in the aluminum and was very small. Pulled one from another car and had it recharged. I know a retired a/c guy that pulls vacuum and recharges vehicles for 40 bucks.
#16
I found a couple cans of R134a in the basement and tried them, blew super cold air for about a day, then it went warm again. Based on this, I concluded that there must be a leak.
So, took it somewhere today, and they did an evacuate and recharge of the system. They noticed it drop pressure and found that the high-pressure line from the evaporator to the condenser was leaking. Didn't have the part and apparently all the parts places were out of stock in the area, so they have to order it, and I'll bring it back early next week. He said it would be in the $250 area for parts and labor for that and the recharge.
So, took it somewhere today, and they did an evacuate and recharge of the system. They noticed it drop pressure and found that the high-pressure line from the evaporator to the condenser was leaking. Didn't have the part and apparently all the parts places were out of stock in the area, so they have to order it, and I'll bring it back early next week. He said it would be in the $250 area for parts and labor for that and the recharge.
#18
I found a couple cans of R134a in the basement and tried them, blew super cold air for about a day, then it went warm again. Based on this, I concluded that there must be a leak.
So, took it somewhere today, and they did an evacuate and recharge of the system. They noticed it drop pressure and found that the high-pressure line from the evaporator to the condenser was leaking. Didn't have the part and apparently all the parts places were out of stock in the area, so they have to order it, and I'll bring it back early next week. He said it would be in the $250 area for parts and labor for that and the recharge.
So, took it somewhere today, and they did an evacuate and recharge of the system. They noticed it drop pressure and found that the high-pressure line from the evaporator to the condenser was leaking. Didn't have the part and apparently all the parts places were out of stock in the area, so they have to order it, and I'll bring it back early next week. He said it would be in the $250 area for parts and labor for that and the recharge.
#19
#20
Berkshire Mazda, actually...a co-worker's brother is the service manager there. They were very quick at the actual fix--less than 2 hours. Grand total was roughly $300...can't remember exactly...but I expected to pay at least that since I wasn't sure what was leaking and I know just an evac and recharge can be around $100.
I've been using it consistently because I hate having the windows open, and it's holding up very well. I sort of feel ridiculous bothering with it on a vehicle with 221K miles and quite a bit of road salt-related rust on the underside, but the engine and tranny couldn't be more solid.
Funny, not a whole lot of Maximas around here...there's a TON of Altimas and Outbacks, though. I love the fact that I'm quicker than a lot of what's around here...I think the Mustang owners are pretty shocked when I smoke them at a red light!
I've been using it consistently because I hate having the windows open, and it's holding up very well. I sort of feel ridiculous bothering with it on a vehicle with 221K miles and quite a bit of road salt-related rust on the underside, but the engine and tranny couldn't be more solid.
Funny, not a whole lot of Maximas around here...there's a TON of Altimas and Outbacks, though. I love the fact that I'm quicker than a lot of what's around here...I think the Mustang owners are pretty shocked when I smoke them at a red light!
Last edited by jas1203; 05-10-2011 at 07:22 PM.
#21
AC quit
95 maxi AC quit actually about a year ago I guess. My son gave up on the car, I took it back and realized how much I love the car. Been addressing a few problems, some body work where trunk scoop was, one big hole, new rear shocks, car was dangerous to drive, a bump especially at highway speeds felt like car was going to fish tale and flip! Anyway easy fix except for the bad designed bracket that was probably designed to hold nut, but lots of rust it rounds out and then you can't get a wrench on it, had to cut bolt out. Anyway car rides great. Back to AC, is it bad on compressor to be low on freon for so long? Going to try 134 and see what happens. A little concerned about compressor cause It seems to be making a bit too much noise, bad bearing noise maybe, if is a bad compressor will have to consider cost of a new compressor which if I remember are a little spendy. Hoping the person who said they rarely fail is correct!! . Have a few other issues but rewarding to get it back in shape and again I forgot what a great car! Actually I had not driven it for probably 10 years when my son stole it from me! Yes I told him he deserved a ford if he is not going to take care of it!! sorry I rambled on about my one question. I am new to this site and have been enjoying it. Forgot to mention my stalling issue but that's another thread. Good work to all that takes pride in keeping their maxis in top shape, my quote is "anyone can buy something new, but it takes a special person to keep something old like new".
#22
AC fixed
Well for now, charged with 1 12 ounce can compressor kicked in at about half a can rest of can brought it up to pressure. Will see if leaks down. Thinking had some freon cause would think system holds twice that much.
#23
Also since I cannot start a thread I will post here, I cannot find what this vacume operated valve is in my Haynes manual is, it had a hose leak but just seemed to effect idle. Anyone know its purpose in life? It's the round valve with the split hose coming up from bottom of valve.
#24
AC recharge cont
By the way the recharge its self is really easy I bought a product, will include a picture, which included 3, 12 ounce cans of R134, the 8 ounce cans sold by them selves for 10 bucks, a hose with gauge, and for me the bonus of a retrofit kit I can use on my old 1990 Silverado, which is just a couple screw on caps to fit the 134 freon. Of course you have to make sure all the R12 is safely removed and collected, but then easy to refill with the R134A. Anyway whole kit was 54 bucks and I only needed one 12 ounce can for my maxi.
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silvermax2k2
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
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03-17-2003 08:16 AM