Resurface flywheel or get a lightened flywheel
04-02-2011, 11:24 AM
#1
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Resurface flywheel or get a lightened flywheel
I installed a new clutch in 2004 and I did not resurface the flywheel. I had about 90k then. Im up to about 133k and the clutch has been humming at me when engauging from a stop. Its been that way for a few years yet grabs fine. Ive also deveolped a RMS leak, which was not leaking then. So this time around Id like to do the flywheel while Im in there. I never really looked into aluminum flywheels because of all the launching horror stories. So should I pick a (rather heavy) lightened flywheel or just resurface a stock one? Either way I want to have a new flywheel ready to go for less down time.
04-02-2011, 05:12 PM
#2
IMO id go with a lightened one simply because of the more power that your going to get at the wheels. i had one on my car when i did my clutch, unfortunately the doucebag mechanic that i took it too put the clutch in wrong so it ended up destroying the flywheel.
So now im back to stock for the meantime. But once you get used to it you should be able to launch fine. i didnt have a problem. You will feel the difference as soon as you drive it after you put it in.
So now im back to stock for the meantime. But once you get used to it you should be able to launch fine. i didnt have a problem. You will feel the difference as soon as you drive it after you put it in.
04-03-2011, 01:47 AM
#5
I don't parallel park..... So yeah.... Either way, after my learning curve I can almost drive it like it has a stock flywheel now.
But keep in mind, My flywheel is only a few lbs lighter than stock, it won't be anywhere as near as light as a lightweight 5mt.
But keep in mind, My flywheel is only a few lbs lighter than stock, it won't be anywhere as near as light as a lightweight 5mt.
04-03-2011, 03:42 AM
#7
I did the fidanza/5th gen clutch.
Only other mods are ypipe, and b&m sts; both in before the clutch job.
I did notice when trying to feather it for reversing into a parking spot, parallel, speed bumps, etc. it was a little bit more touchy. But after a week, no problemo.
The clutch did stiffen the pedal a little. But still feels "factory", it's consistent through entire pedal length.
The launching for me is fine. Again took a little getting used to, because of the less rotating mass. But I'm not real sure of "the horror stories" you speak of.
That's my input, also consider the difference in my setup to yours though.
Only other mods are ypipe, and b&m sts; both in before the clutch job.
I did notice when trying to feather it for reversing into a parking spot, parallel, speed bumps, etc. it was a little bit more touchy. But after a week, no problemo.
The clutch did stiffen the pedal a little. But still feels "factory", it's consistent through entire pedal length.
The launching for me is fine. Again took a little getting used to, because of the less rotating mass. But I'm not real sure of "the horror stories" you speak of.
That's my input, also consider the difference in my setup to yours though.
04-03-2011, 09:58 AM
#10
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So whats the heaviest aluminum flywheel, Fidanza? I like the idea of simple friction surface replacement. Although I cant imagine ever having to do another clutch on my 98. I put about 5500 miles on my car a year.
Id resurface a stock flywheel, but Id like a spare ready to go. I dont want to wait for mine to get resurfaced.
Sentra has a stock flywheel and a stage 5 million Competition Clutch. Not only does it want to rip the tires off, it wants to rip your head off.
Yet its rather easy to drive with the sprung disk.
Sentra has a stock flywheel and a stage 5 million Competition Clutch. Not only does it want to rip the tires off, it wants to rip your head off.
Yet its rather easy to drive with the sprung disk.
04-03-2011, 06:37 PM
#12
Ive had A Stillen unit (same as UR), which was rated at 7lbs, once the timing and starter ring gears were attached it was about 10lbs... maybe a tad bit more.
The Fidanza wieghed 12lbs complete so its just a little heavier.
Honeslty, for a boosted vehicle, at least a SCed one since thats what I have it can be a bit if a PITA when launching, however the RPMs do climb rather quickly.... as well as fall quickly too. Ive been debating about going back to OEM which should bring back some low end torque.
The Fidanza wieghed 12lbs complete so its just a little heavier.
Honeslty, for a boosted vehicle, at least a SCed one since thats what I have it can be a bit if a PITA when launching, however the RPMs do climb rather quickly.... as well as fall quickly too. Ive been debating about going back to OEM which should bring back some low end torque.
Last edited by Flava_24/7; 04-03-2011 at 06:39 PM.
04-04-2011, 09:54 AM
#15
LOL, if I did go back it would be FS though.
Why would it last longer?
04-04-2011, 11:50 AM
#16
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Ive had A Stillen unit (same as UR), which was rated at 7lbs, once the timing and starter ring gears were attached it was about 10lbs... maybe a tad bit more.
The Fidanza wieghed 12lbs complete so its just a little heavier.
Honeslty, for a boosted vehicle, at least a SCed one since thats what I have it can be a bit if a PITA when launching, however the RPMs do climb rather quickly.... as well as fall quickly too. Ive been debating about going back to OEM which should bring back some low end torque.
The Fidanza wieghed 12lbs complete so its just a little heavier.
Honeslty, for a boosted vehicle, at least a SCed one since thats what I have it can be a bit if a PITA when launching, however the RPMs do climb rather quickly.... as well as fall quickly too. Ive been debating about going back to OEM which should bring back some low end torque.
Autozone has new flywheel that weighs 12lbs. cost $90. Damn sure it aint no fidanza. what gives???
Yo sutter man,
Why resurface and have potential warps from hot spots when u can go new for $45 more.
And regarding the fidanza, no matter how much you treat aluminum and how hard it becomes, its still aluminum and no where near as good as Carbon steel. Especially when heated.
04-04-2011, 12:51 PM
#17
Autozone has new flywheel that weighs 12lbs. cost $90. Damn sure it aint no fidanza. what gives???
Yo sutter man,
Why resurface and have potential warps from hot spots when u can go new for $45 more.
And regarding the fidanza, no matter how much you treat aluminum and how hard it becomes, its still aluminum and no where near as good as Carbon steel. Especially when heated.
Yo sutter man,
Why resurface and have potential warps from hot spots when u can go new for $45 more.
And regarding the fidanza, no matter how much you treat aluminum and how hard it becomes, its still aluminum and no where near as good as Carbon steel. Especially when heated.
You should reasearch a bit more before posting.
The AutoZone flywheel does not inlcude the ring gear.
As far as the Fidanza goes, its not entirely aluminum, it has a replaceable 1050 high carbon steel friction insert.
Worth a shot.
04-05-2011, 06:44 AM
#20
When I was considering buying a FW around Christmas, the information I read about it seemed that people were needing to replace the inserts on light weight ones sooner than the oem flywheel needed resurfacing.
I know that the oem one will last atleast 150k. If you dont plan on needing it for that long then that not a consideration for you. I just dont plan on doing anymore clutch/fw work for atleast that long.
If it's proven that they will last as long as oem, then you other considerations are cost and affect on performance.
I know that the oem one will last atleast 150k. If you dont plan on needing it for that long then that not a consideration for you. I just dont plan on doing anymore clutch/fw work for atleast that long.
If it's proven that they will last as long as oem, then you other considerations are cost and affect on performance.
04-05-2011, 01:14 PM
#21
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I know what you mean but the person with a LWFW is more apt to beat on the car anyhow.
I drive 95% city, stop and go is going to wear the clutch quicker no matter what I get.
I drive 95% city, stop and go is going to wear the clutch quicker no matter what I get.
04-05-2011, 01:43 PM
#22
04-05-2011, 11:45 PM
#23
So when I go to the city, it's not horrible. But if I were doing a lot of that; Stop light, 1>2>3.... another light, 1>2>3...(maybe get to 4 occasionally). I don't think I'd be liking my LWFW as much
04-06-2011, 06:59 AM
#24
I have a stillen (made by AASCO) light weight flywheel, with a ACT clutch cover, and a oem AE2k1 friction disc. This mod definatly livens up the vq. I wouldn't go back to stock unless i was parting the car.
Last edited by 99greddymax; 04-06-2011 at 07:28 AM.
04-06-2011, 08:22 AM
#25
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I think you just made the decision right there. Where I live I rarely do what I would consider "city" driving. Maybe <5%, mine is mostly free/highway, or rural. I'm not going stop light to stop light.
So when I go to the city, it's not horrible. But if I were doing a lot of that; Stop light, 1>2>3.... another light, 1>2>3...(maybe get to 4 occasionally). I don't think I'd be liking my LWFW as much
So when I go to the city, it's not horrible. But if I were doing a lot of that; Stop light, 1>2>3.... another light, 1>2>3...(maybe get to 4 occasionally). I don't think I'd be liking my LWFW as much
04-06-2011, 09:04 AM
#26
By upgraded clutch what do you mean? I have a 5th gen clutch in my 4th gen, and although thats an upgrade from the 4th gen clutch, im not sure if it qualifies as a true upgraded clutch. With a LWFW does it matter or make a difference what clutch you have? Im asking b/c I have a Fidanza LWFW that is going to be installed when my tranny get rebuilt nxt month.
04-06-2011, 09:24 AM
#27
When I was considering buying a FW around Christmas, the information I read about it seemed that people were needing to replace the inserts on light weight ones sooner than the oem flywheel needed resurfacing.
I know that the oem one will last atleast 150k. If you dont plan on needing it for that long then that not a consideration for you. I just dont plan on doing anymore clutch/fw work for atleast that long.
If it's proven that they will last as long as oem, then you other considerations are cost and affect on performance.
I know that the oem one will last atleast 150k. If you dont plan on needing it for that long then that not a consideration for you. I just dont plan on doing anymore clutch/fw work for atleast that long.
If it's proven that they will last as long as oem, then you other considerations are cost and affect on performance.
As i mentioned, i have a stillen fly. I've replaced a couple of transmissions on my car since i intalled the clutch and flywheel. About 100+ k has passed since the flywheel was installed, and when I replaced my last transmission I took the cover off and looked at the clutch and flywheel. No abnormal wear on the flywheel insert, or clutch. Still plenty of life imo. The screws that hold the inserts in place were still intact, and not sanded/grinded down by the friction disc of the clutch.
Also I bought this flywheel used off ebay, so not sure how many miles it had prior to me getting it.
04-06-2011, 10:42 AM
#28
I have the Fidanza and do about 50% city driving in a fairly hilly/mountainous area. I took some getting used to considering I went from automatic to 5 speed with a lightweight flywheel. Sometimes I wish I had a little more kinetic energy stored when I start from a stop, but all in all I'm glad I have the Fidanza. I don't think I would go any lighter though. No real need to unless you drive on a road course all the time.
I have the 5th gen clutch, btw.
I have the 5th gen clutch, btw.
04-06-2011, 09:52 PM
#29
Very true.
Where as I do have the same setup(almost) as he, fidanza+2001AE clutch. And I do agree that is very fun, and lively. That is with the kind of driving I do.
I think if I was doing the kind of stop and go city driving, I'd be wanting some more of that kinetic energy to help smooth out the driving.
Where as I do have the same setup(almost) as he, fidanza+2001AE clutch. And I do agree that is very fun, and lively. That is with the kind of driving I do.
I think if I was doing the kind of stop and go city driving, I'd be wanting some more of that kinetic energy to help smooth out the driving.
04-07-2011, 03:57 PM
#31
I hate my Fidanza Flywheel. The reason I hate it is that in 1st gear if you lightly touch the gas the car seems like it has a dead spot. You can't really have a nice smooth transition when taking off, it's very touchy.. I'd kill myself if I was stuck in traffic every day. When I replace my transmission I'm definitely putting back the stock flywheel.
Once the car is rolling it's ok. It's just getting the damn thing rolling, maybe the SC contribues to the jerky/deadspot in 1st.
Once the car is rolling it's ok. It's just getting the damn thing rolling, maybe the SC contribues to the jerky/deadspot in 1st.
04-07-2011, 05:56 PM
#32
I hate my Fidanza Flywheel. The reason I hate it is that in 1st gear if you lightly touch the gas the car seems like it has a dead spot. You can't really have a nice smooth transition when taking off, it's very touchy.. I'd kill myself if I was stuck in traffic every day. When I replace my transmission I'm definitely putting back the stock flywheel.
Once the car is rolling it's ok. It's just getting the damn thing rolling, maybe the SC contribues to the jerky/deadspot in 1st.
Once the car is rolling it's ok. It's just getting the damn thing rolling, maybe the SC contribues to the jerky/deadspot in 1st.
i didnt have trouble with it. I think the rest of you guys are just being sensitive.
04-07-2011, 09:16 PM
#34
04-07-2011, 10:03 PM
#35
04-08-2011, 11:33 AM
#37
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Braselton, Ga
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I have one on my Integra, I honestly can't stand it, but I'm not sure of the clutch in that car, which may contribute to it alot, as it was already in it when I bought the car. To the point I won't drive that car if I have an inkling that I might have to sit in traffic unless I really need to. Now, tear-assing around some backroads at night with it, I love it. Revs up a ton faster than stock ones I've had, makes the car feel alot different.
Sometimes, I really think the weight differences will really make a difference depending on what brand flywheel you have. The Fidanza I had in the S13 wasnt that bad all around, and then some ebay brand one in there at one point which still wasnt too bad, but the Teg is a different story.
If its a daily, I'd just get your stocker resurfaced and call it a day.
Sometimes, I really think the weight differences will really make a difference depending on what brand flywheel you have. The Fidanza I had in the S13 wasnt that bad all around, and then some ebay brand one in there at one point which still wasnt too bad, but the Teg is a different story.
If its a daily, I'd just get your stocker resurfaced and call it a day.
04-08-2011, 02:59 PM
#38
This is when 1st is already engaged and I slightly touch the gas. As soon as it reaches a certain rpm the car feels like it hits a dead spot. I don't think this is a clutch issue as it had made contact. It happens when I drive slowly in 1st. Clutch fully depressed.
This is a momentum issue that the flywheel has.
Regardless this is what my issue is and you can take it with a grain of salt. I've driven with a stock flywheel and a lighter flywheel. The clutch is a little tricky to get going but once it makes contact then it has nothing to do with the flywheel. I'm talking about while your in 1st gear rolling at a constant slow speed.
This is a momentum issue that the flywheel has.
Regardless this is what my issue is and you can take it with a grain of salt. I've driven with a stock flywheel and a lighter flywheel. The clutch is a little tricky to get going but once it makes contact then it has nothing to do with the flywheel. I'm talking about while your in 1st gear rolling at a constant slow speed.
Last edited by OC_Nooby; 04-08-2011 at 03:03 PM.
04-09-2011, 02:20 PM
#39
This is when 1st is already engaged and I slightly touch the gas. As soon as it reaches a certain rpm the car feels like it hits a dead spot. I don't think this is a clutch issue as it had made contact. It happens when I drive slowly in 1st. Clutch fully depressed.
This is a momentum issue that the flywheel has.
Regardless this is what my issue is and you can take it with a grain of salt. I've driven with a stock flywheel and a lighter flywheel. The clutch is a little tricky to get going but once it makes contact then it has nothing to do with the flywheel. I'm talking about while your in 1st gear rolling at a constant slow speed.
This is a momentum issue that the flywheel has.
Regardless this is what my issue is and you can take it with a grain of salt. I've driven with a stock flywheel and a lighter flywheel. The clutch is a little tricky to get going but once it makes contact then it has nothing to do with the flywheel. I'm talking about while your in 1st gear rolling at a constant slow speed.
I'm not taking time out to be an *** but rather to suggest that you may check a few different avenues to resolve your dead spot.
04-10-2011, 11:55 AM
#40
There are probably ten different things I would look into before the flywheel on this issue. Crank sensor, coils, maf, tps, etc.... Think about it, the weight of the flywheel is static yet you are having the issue at a certain rpm or under a certain load. The rotating assembly itself carries enough inertia to not bog as bad as some people are making it sound. I and other members on the board have driven UDP'd and flywheel'd Maximas without the issue.
I'm not taking time out to be an *** but rather to suggest that you may check a few different avenues to resolve your dead spot.
I'm not taking time out to be an *** but rather to suggest that you may check a few different avenues to resolve your dead spot.