95-98 A/C compressor wont fit my 99??
#1
95-98 A/C compressor wont fit my 99??
I need a new ac compressor and I have been told by numerous yards and nissan that my 99 requires an a/c compress from a car manufactured from 12/98.
Does anyone know if I can use an ac compressor from 95-98? Or can I only use this one that they say?
Does anyone know if I can use an ac compressor from 95-98? Or can I only use this one that they say?
#5
+1^^^^^Dates are exactly correct Aackshun... you CANNOT mix and match compressors, mounting and hardlines won't fit. 95-98 compressors fit only 95-98 and nissan decided to change sheit up on the 99's so some parts from the 2000 model fit the 99 like maybe 5% of parts
Last edited by mista0406; 04-13-2011 at 02:49 PM.
#8
Because my mechanic at nissan said that if I didnt, since itd not working correctly, when it breaks, it could cause damage to the motor. Im assuming it has something to do with that belt putting more of a load on the motor if the ac compressor stop working/spinning correctly, im not real sure though.
#10
WHOA WHOA there. Jsutter is right, a bad compressor would not damage your engine. You do not have to change the compressor in order to save your engine.
Now, you should find out what caused your AC to fail. I assume you don't have access to a set of manifold gauges. There are many things that can cause an AC system to fail.
Check the obvious, when you turn on the AC, does the clutch on the compressor start to turn? Does the idle on the car change?
If not, there could be 10 or so reasons why the AC does not work.
My AC system failed on my I30 due to a bad thermal expansion valve.
Now, you should find out what caused your AC to fail. I assume you don't have access to a set of manifold gauges. There are many things that can cause an AC system to fail.
Check the obvious, when you turn on the AC, does the clutch on the compressor start to turn? Does the idle on the car change?
If not, there could be 10 or so reasons why the AC does not work.
My AC system failed on my I30 due to a bad thermal expansion valve.
Because my mechanic at nissan said that if I didnt, since itd not working correctly, when it breaks, it could cause damage to the motor. Im assuming it has something to do with that belt putting more of a load on the motor if the ac compressor stop working/spinning correctly, im not real sure though.
#11
I do not know why it failed. The car has 217k miles so maybe that has something to do with it. The ac itself works and blows cold. The problem is the terrible metal-like noise it make when it spins whenever the engine is running.
I pressed on the round part of the ac comp that moves while it was running last night (not the actual part spinning with the belt, but the flat part in the middle) and I could manipulate the sound it was making. So I assume it has something to do with the bearing inside of it, maybe.
This is on my moms maxima. But my 95 has 272k on the ac comp in my car and it still works, for now at least.
I pressed on the round part of the ac comp that moves while it was running last night (not the actual part spinning with the belt, but the flat part in the middle) and I could manipulate the sound it was making. So I assume it has something to do with the bearing inside of it, maybe.
This is on my moms maxima. But my 95 has 272k on the ac comp in my car and it still works, for now at least.
#12
You ac compressor isnt the problem. Its the bearing inside the pulley. You can replace just that if you want. I think the "engine damage" the mechanic was refering to was the possiblity of the bearing seizing and then snapping the belt. No "real" damage other that a broken belt. But you would then be driving off the battery, since the alternator isnt being turned. Like someone said above, you can run a shorter belt bypassing the compressor for now if you want.
#13
I thought it was that idler pulley as well until I touched the ac compressor while laying under the car and found out I could touch it and the sounds it is making changed sounds or even stopped for a sec til I stopped touching it. And I could definitely hear the ou d coming from it.
#14
Sounds like the clutch bearing to me. EZ job to do as I just did it last week on Sons Max. Dont replace compressor if its working , replace the bearing.
I posted the bearing # that I had to use in the welcome area.
But if you continue to run the car it will F@#kup the compressor for sure.
I posted the bearing # that I had to use in the welcome area.
But if you continue to run the car it will F@#kup the compressor for sure.
#16
I just finished changing out the bearing on the AC clutch,wasnt too bad a job to DIY
but the bearing was $135. $15 of that was overnite shipping .local parts place wanted $350+ for whole cluch assembley. So if anyone knows of a cheap place to get bearings please post it up... The bearing I used is NACHI 40BGS11G-2DS
The OE Bearing was NSK & the Guy couldnt get one
Here is what I used for clutch bearing
but the bearing was $135. $15 of that was overnite shipping .local parts place wanted $350+ for whole cluch assembley. So if anyone knows of a cheap place to get bearings please post it up... The bearing I used is NACHI 40BGS11G-2DS
The OE Bearing was NSK & the Guy couldnt get one
Here is what I used for clutch bearing
#19
#20
Hmmm well thats interesting. I'll test the bearing when I pull the comp off today. But I already purchased an ac comp and it wasn't much more than the price of the bearing.
Should I know anything about loosening/tightening the hoses or oiling that bearing or anything else on the comp during the install?
Anyone want/need pics of anything while I'm under the car?
Should I know anything about loosening/tightening the hoses or oiling that bearing or anything else on the comp during the install?
Anyone want/need pics of anything while I'm under the car?
#21
I have a question. I have a 99 as well and the bearing wasn't able to be changed due to the clutch being some what rusted and wouldn't come off, anyways. If I get a compressor from an I30, does it have to be from a 99 as well?...
It's the clutch bearing and nothing else, reason i know is because mine did the same thing before it gave out. See if ur Nissan mechanic can replace that...
I bypassed mine, let me see if i can give u the part number for the smaller belt...
The bearing is in between the compressor pulley and the clutch plate(the flat play that kinda covers the compressor pulley)
I do not know why it failed. The car has 217k miles so maybe that has something to do with it. The ac itself works and blows cold. The problem is the terrible metal-like noise it make when it spins whenever the engine is running.
I pressed on the round part of the ac comp that moves while it was running last night (not the actual part spinning with the belt, but the flat part in the middle) and I could manipulate the sound it was making. So I assume it has something to do with the bearing inside of it, maybe.
This is on my moms maxima. But my 95 has 272k on the ac comp in my car and it still works, for now at least.
I pressed on the round part of the ac comp that moves while it was running last night (not the actual part spinning with the belt, but the flat part in the middle) and I could manipulate the sound it was making. So I assume it has something to do with the bearing inside of it, maybe.
This is on my moms maxima. But my 95 has 272k on the ac comp in my car and it still works, for now at least.
You ac compressor isnt the problem. Its the bearing inside the pulley. You can replace just that if you want. I think the "engine damage" the mechanic was refering to was the possiblity of the bearing seizing and then snapping the belt. No "real" damage other that a broken belt. But you would then be driving off the battery, since the alternator isnt being turned. Like someone said above, you can run a shorter belt bypassing the compressor for now if you want.
The bearing is in between the compressor pulley and the clutch plate(the flat play that kinda covers the compressor pulley)
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