44mag

ive been working on getting my max on the road for quite some time now but ive been plagued by that goddamn check engine light. i replaced egr solenoids black and green. replaced the egr valve and pipe, which i had too because it broke off with the valve, oh what fun. now i keep getting the circuit malfunction code 8-7 ive checked over all my solenoids even the evap solenoids in the rear and the canister. all read fine for continuity, 8-7 is usually followed by 5-5? and now today i got a 5-3 code fior an oxygen sensor, then i cleared em. left it came back and it was just 5-5. the cars been sitting for 2 years and i really dont see all this **** going at once. i turned back the screw on the ecm while the car was running could i have fried anything out in the cpu?i only did it a couple times before i read not too , so since then ive been doing it on acc and all has been well although i have a 96 my reader is from a 95 and parts stores cant read it the bastards! luckily you guys here at maxima.org have much info for this over engineered pos egr system. i mean you would think they use chopsticks to get these sensors out. yeah but any thought as to what this might be? im thinking wiring but ah that is not good....

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

5-5 (0505) is "No Failure Recorded/Detected" so don't worry about that one.

The 8-7 (0807) is "EVAP Canister purge control valve/solenoid valve circuit". The EVAP canister purge control solenoid valve has 3 vacuum lines on it and by means of an electric solenoid, it switches vacuum between either the "EVAP canister purge control valve" or the air intake duct.

Maybe you have a bad piece of vacuum hose on this solenoid valve or the EVAP canister purge control valve. Also check that the 2 ground wires that are bolted to the intake manifold between the fuel injectors for cylinders 2 and 4 are clean and tight.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Cicuit = wires
Rodents like to chew wires in parked cars.
Don't replace, diagnose. Check the circuit, not just the components.

44mag

ok maybe i will also try and push compressed air thru the vacuum lines b/c i read in another thread sometimes charcoal can gum up the hoses even though this may not apply seeing as how my max has only 129k on it! yea thats right and only 70k on the trans still a baby!

44mag

i think the oxygen sensor may be loose or something because i had to use air tools to remove the egr pipe from rear of engine,now there is a small air leak there but nothing major i had to re thread the hole b/c it got frozen inside the engine so all that vibration may have also attributed to this mess. today the light came back on 8-7 again no sign of oxygen so as long as it stays i d/c about it. the 8-7 seems to be the major pain here i took off the bpt valve while replacing the egr thinking it was a part of the evap but it wasnt seems fine so i put it back on, i cracked the metal pipe off the bottom of the egr as well b/c it was seized so i have a rubber hose going from bottom of egr(bolt with nipple to rubber hose) to bpt but it works fine

i checked the ground wires they are fine brushed em up a bit re connected em still doin it.tomorrow im going to re test my canister, compressed air thru the vaccum lines this weekend if not solved then wires yay!

oh and 1 more thing when the solenoids get power is it pulsed or always on?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

My charcoal EVAP canister leaked and I was getting codes 1008 (P1445) & 0111 (P1447).

For 0807, the fsm says either the EVAP canister purge control solenoid valve is bad or the wires to it are open or shorted.

44mag

i took apart the egr purge solenoid and there was a lil bit of moisture in it hmmm? both o rings are in tact and the valve is fine i assembled it myself from leftovers from other valves lol, actually the only other opart i used was the plastic black vaccum hookups off the green valve of my old egr solenoid i hooked it up to thewiring harness tuned the car on and off and itr was clicking and so it seems to be alright maybe theres moisture in my vaccum lines?


update--
back from the junkyard
picked up a new cannister and the green valve that goes by the cannister b/c i broke it trying to get it off, f/n rust! also picked up a new valve for the canister and new taillights all for under 60 bucks!
the check engine light is off for now. i will re post when it goes on or off im not sure exactly how far you have to drive for it come on b/c i drove over 30 miles w/o it coming on and then shut it off started it up next day drove it 5 min then came on before .the canister is off a 94 max gxe i just widened the hole and pop'd the sensor in there! ill post pics of my new tail lights bone -yard fresh.. mm

44mag

came back on now codes 9-3 and 7-5 most likely the vent valve is clogged however the other one i will have to look into, it never ends

update installed old vent control valve, yep i save all my parts, and i blew air thru all the lines and it seems the old 8-7 is back AGAIN WTF!!
the black purge vacccum thing on top of the motor seems to be fine i blew thru it and is alright but maybe i should replace that im not sure where to go from here? anyone have any suggestions ??

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Heave you checked ALL the wires yet like has been posted twice. A short or open will cause an intermitant code like what your experiencing. If the wires don't work the solenoids won't either.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Since the 0807 went away when you changed the one valve and gave you 2 others, maybe it is bad and masked the other problems. The FSN for the 0705 code has a lot of possibilities but one of them is a bad gas cap that does not seal.

I was going to suggest testing the EVAP canister, but you got another one. FWIW, the test is on the bottom of page EC-21 in the 1997 manual (its page EC-23 in the 98 manual). I don't have a 96 manual. It's a real simple test.

Regarding the round black valve on top of the engine - EVAP canister purge control valve. You can blow air through it when the engine is off, which I think is normal. BUT... did you try applying vacuum to (sucking on) the little connection and see if it closes off the big connections?


2 service bulletins for you to read:

NTB00-060 EVAP VENT CONTROL VALVE DIAGNOSTICS
NTB00-085a CLEANING PROCEDURE FOR EVAP CANISTER CHARCOAL LEAKAGE INCIDENTS

With all you have done so far, I doubt if the 085a bulletin applies but I referenced it as a FYI.

44mag

i took off the round black valve blew thru it it has a certain pressure point when the air will blow freely for vaccum, and the top pops when i suck or blow in and out so it seems ok .in regards to the wiring i checked the wires to the black solenoid in the front, ex. i switched car from on to acc with solenoid hooked up with no vaccum hoses and heard the clicking sound so it is getting voltage. the green and brown solenoids are showing there ok , i have not checked the gas cap i assumed it was alright b/c when i open it i can hear the hissing sound of fumes however maybe i should test this anyways? wouldnt that be funny all this **** for a gas cap the canister i picked up is about 1lb heavier than the one i have i think it has more charcoal in it, i reatached my (new)old canister valve to my new canister and we'll see if it does the trick i think the valve i picked up is faulty its from a 99.


--update--
blew air thru gas cap apparently valve in gas cap is faulty buying a new one

-update-
still driving it around havent reached the reset mileage level yet willlwt you know what happens

--update_
8-7 BACK ON WTH!!

-update-
8-7 came back on with new gas cap apparently its another issue anyone know what would cause this definitively besides a generalization of issues that've allready been address here
??

suggestions suggestions welcomed

44mag

so as of right now the only suggestion is wiring?

bobflood

On my 97, I found that a small VSV with three vacuum connections on a bracket just outside the EVAP cannister had one of the nipples broken. Replaced it and trouble went away.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Talk about the granddaddy of all emission problems. Maybe you should check wiring, especially the connections. As our cars age, corrosion on connectors becomes more likely to happen, and much more likely in the snow belt.

Basically, you want to unplug the connector on EVERY emissions module (gas tank area, under hood, trunk of my car) (sorry, bad humor) and check it. If you see anything in the connector like a powder or growth, it is corroding. Even if not, unplug and re-plug the connector several times to "wipe" the contacts. This is going to be a real pita with locking tabs, not to mention the location of some of these things. Also check the connector on the wire harness that all wires are in good condition where they attach to the contact pins and that none of the contact pins are backing out.

Also check all the metal tubing line that run from the tank area to the engine. Maybe something hit them and put a small hole in one. The code 0705 is a pressurizing problem.

The FSM diagnostics only talks about checking for voltage at the various solenoid valves. They do not ever say to check the resistance of the coil. I don't know what the resistance should be, but they should all be very similar. On the 3rd gen, measuring the coil resistance was very helpful to find a bad fuel injector.

44mag

thanks guys for all your input im going to try all this junk out over the weekend