Mechanic Needed for my 96 Auto GXE!!!
#1
Mechanic Needed for my 96 Auto GXE!!!
I cant figure out what is wrong with my car. It is running on 5 cylinders and i checked the engine light codes and have fixed/replaced the problems it says but it still runs like crap. The only code its throwing the last time i checked it was a Misfire in #2 Cylinder which i checked and that isnt the problem. I am starting to think its a electrical problem or something because every now and then the temp gauge needle would randomly go up and down. Any input on this will be appreciated.
If anyone knows a good mechanic that gives good prices and is familiar with maximas please lmk. I am wanting for some one to come take a look at it or maybe i can drop the car off so they can try and figure out the problem/fix it
If anyone knows a good mechanic that gives good prices and is familiar with maximas please lmk. I am wanting for some one to come take a look at it or maybe i can drop the car off so they can try and figure out the problem/fix it
#2
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
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What exactly did you check and how did you check it?
Usually a misfire is caused by a coil pack, did you swap them around or change the #2 coil pack? Did you check the fuel injector on #2? Have you pulled and looked at the #2 spark plug?
#3
I cant figure out what is wrong with my car. It is running on 5 cylinders and i checked the engine light codes and have fixed/replaced the problems it says but it still runs like crap. The only code its throwing the last time i checked it was a Misfire in #2 Cylinder which i checked and that isnt the problem. I am starting to think its a electrical problem or something because every now and then the temp gauge needle would randomly go up and down. Any input on this will be appreciated.
If anyone knows a good mechanic that gives good prices and is familiar with maximas please lmk. I am wanting for some one to come take a look at it or maybe i can drop the car off so they can try and figure out the problem/fix it
If anyone knows a good mechanic that gives good prices and is familiar with maximas please lmk. I am wanting for some one to come take a look at it or maybe i can drop the car off so they can try and figure out the problem/fix it
Listen man,
U dont really need to find a mechanic that knows maximas, cuz we do. All the mech needs to be able to do is fix what we tell u to fix.
If the CEL is on and tellin u its cylinder #2 then u got an issue. U have to test the CPS per FSM first and make sure thats working properly.
Clean TB and MAF per how tos. Throw some chevron techron in the fuel tank.
Here is the cylinder config, jus to make sure we on the same page:
firewall
1 3 5
2 4 6
front bumper
Check cylinder 2 plug, ignition coil, and fuel injector, and coil harness.
If none of that is the problem, then u will need to complete a compression test on the cylinder for make sure valves havent bent somehow.
Report back after u try fixes
#4
I checked the coil packs by swaping them out and checked the fuel injectors by unplugging them while the car was running didnt help me find the problem. I put new spark plugs in it and i also cleaned the IACV and throttle body but not the EGR valve. I will try and clean that next. The compression test is a idea i havent thought of and need to check out. What should the compression on all cylinders read out?
#5
These are some good tips im actually in your same position only mine is cyl 5.
Codes are popping for cyl 5, knock sensor, and p1320. My confusion with the 1320 is people keep telling me that the cps will cause a multiple misfire, not just 1 cyl.
And people keep saying dont worry about the knock because it only tripping because of the mis.
I havent check the injector yet because i have limited time to work on it. During the day.
If it is the injector how can i check that without removing the intake? Will the plug be dry if its not working?
I have checked plugs. I put new ones in on saturday.
Coil. I put a new one in saturday. I even swapped the coil from cyl 3 to 5 and still the problem stays with cyl 5. I even switched the plugs around thinking maybe i got a bad one.
I did lucas and filled it up with premium.
With every little thing i do it will seem to get better until i drive it for a few minutes then the shaking at stand still and idle sputter coke right back.
Sorry to bombard your thread. Im just like you trying to figure this thing out before i say screw it and get rid of it.
Codes are popping for cyl 5, knock sensor, and p1320. My confusion with the 1320 is people keep telling me that the cps will cause a multiple misfire, not just 1 cyl.
And people keep saying dont worry about the knock because it only tripping because of the mis.
I havent check the injector yet because i have limited time to work on it. During the day.
If it is the injector how can i check that without removing the intake? Will the plug be dry if its not working?
I have checked plugs. I put new ones in on saturday.
Coil. I put a new one in saturday. I even swapped the coil from cyl 3 to 5 and still the problem stays with cyl 5. I even switched the plugs around thinking maybe i got a bad one.
I did lucas and filled it up with premium.
With every little thing i do it will seem to get better until i drive it for a few minutes then the shaking at stand still and idle sputter coke right back.
Sorry to bombard your thread. Im just like you trying to figure this thing out before i say screw it and get rid of it.
#8
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
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Check all 6 cylinders.
Swap a known good coil w/each front bank and see if anything changes.
Repeat the same for the rear bank.
Drive the car for a day after the swap. If nothing changes, put that coil back in and move the known good one over to the next cylinder.
The VQ isn't anything special, basic fuel injected engine with coil on plug setup.
You need spark, air and fuel in order for it to operate correctly.
Lets rule out air, now we're down to 2 items to check, the fuel injector or the coil pack.
There are 6 of each. A test light will show you if you have the signal to fire them.
It that's present, your now down to the device itself.
A basic test to tell if a fuel injector is working is to hold a long screwdriver against your ear and touch it to the injector. You will hear the injector pulse through the screwdriver into your ear. It's working...
Coils can be tricky, they may measure out OK with an ohm meter but still not fire correctly. The stalk can have corrosion up near where the spring meets the actual coil. If corrosion is present, clean that area up and see if the problem stops. Swapping them out with a known good coil may take some time, but you will find the bad one when your all finished.
Any mechanic can work on a Maxima, the VQ engine isn't anything special.
Swap a known good coil w/each front bank and see if anything changes.
Repeat the same for the rear bank.
Drive the car for a day after the swap. If nothing changes, put that coil back in and move the known good one over to the next cylinder.
The VQ isn't anything special, basic fuel injected engine with coil on plug setup.
You need spark, air and fuel in order for it to operate correctly.
Lets rule out air, now we're down to 2 items to check, the fuel injector or the coil pack.
There are 6 of each. A test light will show you if you have the signal to fire them.
It that's present, your now down to the device itself.
A basic test to tell if a fuel injector is working is to hold a long screwdriver against your ear and touch it to the injector. You will hear the injector pulse through the screwdriver into your ear. It's working...
Coils can be tricky, they may measure out OK with an ohm meter but still not fire correctly. The stalk can have corrosion up near where the spring meets the actual coil. If corrosion is present, clean that area up and see if the problem stops. Swapping them out with a known good coil may take some time, but you will find the bad one when your all finished.
Any mechanic can work on a Maxima, the VQ engine isn't anything special.
#9
Did you recheck the codes after swapping yor coil? did the miss follow the coil or stay at #2?
Did the RPM drop when you unplugged #2 injector. If not # 2 is in fact daed for some reason.
You can ignore ALL SENSORS for now as thay would affect ALL cylinders and will only complicate the diagnosis.
1. Determine which cyl is dead by unplugging coils/injectors one at a time, listem for rpm drop to indicate functional cylinder.
2. Determine offending part by swapping. Miss will follow bad part (coil/plug/injector).
3. Perform compression/leakdown test to check rings and valves.
Did the RPM drop when you unplugged #2 injector. If not # 2 is in fact daed for some reason.
You can ignore ALL SENSORS for now as thay would affect ALL cylinders and will only complicate the diagnosis.
1. Determine which cyl is dead by unplugging coils/injectors one at a time, listem for rpm drop to indicate functional cylinder.
2. Determine offending part by swapping. Miss will follow bad part (coil/plug/injector).
3. Perform compression/leakdown test to check rings and valves.
#10
Yeah rececked codes and still saying #2.... I unplugged all injectors and the rpm/engine would bog down more... I am going to recheck all the ignition coils this weekend and try and do a compression test to see if there is any sign of internal damage. Is there a possibility that the ecu is bad or have a short?
#11
Simple fix you need to change the valve cover gaskets and also spark plug cylinder gaskets. I bet that's your problem reason being the oil can be seeping into the cylinders which cause a misfire code. If you checked your plugs when it happen or now you will see it drenched in oil. And even if you changed all the injectors, plugs, and coil packs you will still get the code. Your car will also store freeze frame data in the ECU that will pin point whats causing the problem when you scan it with a scantool. How do I know all of this, I am a mechanic and this problem is currently happening to my 97 Maxima. So change the seals, the car is old, so seals and gaskets deteriorate eventually.
#12
I checked the coil packs by swaping them out and checked the fuel injectors by unplugging them while the car was running didnt help me find the problem. I put new spark plugs in it and i also cleaned the IACV and throttle body but not the EGR valve. I will try and clean that next. The compression test is a idea i havent thought of and need to check out. What should the compression on all cylinders read out?
if u unplugged injector or coil #2 and nothing changed with engine, then that is broken.
If u unplug either coil or injector, the car should bog down. If it doesnt, that means the coil or injector is already broken and u found problem.
Last edited by cashoit; 05-11-2011 at 01:02 PM.
#13
Simple fix you need to change the valve cover gaskets and also spark plug cylinder gaskets. I bet that's your problem reason being the oil can be seeping into the cylinders which cause a misfire code. If you checked your plugs when it happen or now you will see it drenched in oil. And even if you changed all the injectors, plugs, and coil packs you will still get the code. Your car will also store freeze frame data in the ECU that will pin point whats causing the problem when you scan it with a scantool. How do I know all of this, I am a mechanic and this problem is currently happening to my 97 Maxima. So change the seals, the car is old, so seals and gaskets deteriorate eventually.
Last edited by joseph.mcgowen; 05-11-2011 at 01:21 PM.
#15
Simple fix you need to change the valve cover gaskets and also spark plug cylinder gaskets. I bet that's your problem reason being the oil can be seeping into the cylinders which cause a misfire code. If you checked your plugs when it happen or now you will see it drenched in oil. And even if you changed all the injectors, plugs, and coil packs you will still get the code. Your car will also store freeze frame data in the ECU that will pin point whats causing the problem when you scan it with a scantool. How do I know all of this, I am a mechanic and this problem is currently happening to my 97 Maxima. So change the seals, the car is old, so seals and gaskets deteriorate eventually.
#16
I literally see every answer acceptable for the MULTIPLE Misfire Issues at Hand. If your issue Isn't resolved by one of these methods, d00d yer doin it wrong.
:matt93se:
There I fixed it for you.
The EGR has nothing to do with misfire. Has anyone worked on the cars intake manifold lately or anything else? Whats the history with the car?
If you unplugged injector or coil #2 and nothing changed with engine, then that is broken.
If you unplug either coil or injector, the car should bog down. If it doesnt, that means the coil or injector is already broken and you've found the problem.
If you unplugged injector or coil #2 and nothing changed with engine, then that is broken.
If you unplug either coil or injector, the car should bog down. If it doesnt, that means the coil or injector is already broken and you've found the problem.
Last edited by FallenOne; 05-11-2011 at 10:37 PM.
#17
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
Valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube seals have absolutely nothing to do with the cylinders. What seals the cylinders is the head gasket.
And your a mechanic?
Yes, oil can leak into the spark plug tube channel through the seals, but he never said any coil stalks or plugs came out with any oil on them.
#18
Exactly there was no oil on the coil stalks or plugs
I am really leaning on fuel injector is my problem cause i had the same problem about a year or 2 ago and replaced the injector problem went away.About 6 months ago i got bad gas from a texaco so it ran on 5 cylinders. I drove it like that for a couple days to drain the tank and refilled with some good 93 problem went away..... Then came back about a month ago so..........
#20
#21
lucas oil crap. AZ guys told me to use it too and i did. My car ran like crap the entire tank of gas. Threw some chevron in that bish...issues cleared up.
Run the chevron on yur next fillup.
#22
Hot oil deteriorates the plug boots and the spark arks to the tube. This results in a dead cylinder. His post seemed pretty obvious to me. Sounds like its not the issue here though.
#23
Valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube seals have absolutely nothing to do with the cylinders. What seals the cylinders is the head gasket.
And your a mechanic?
Yes, oil can leak into the spark plug tube channel through the seals, but he never said any coil stalks or plugs came out with any oil on them.
Then what else would be the problem. Did you ever do that compression test yet. Could have a burned exhaust valve.
Last edited by K-Ryder; 05-12-2011 at 12:19 PM.
#24
I am going to do the compression test this weekend and get some Chevron gas put in it. Many people are telling me to try and put seafoam in the gas and should help if it is a clogged injector. Any input or experiences with putting seafoam in the gas tank?
#26
I have bent valves fml!!!!! Can here a taping in the head when i rev just under 3krpm.... Cant tell where exactly its coming from but i do know its a bent valve...any idea on how much getting a head resurfaced and new valves in will cost?
#27
Valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube seals have absolutely nothing to do with the cylinders. What seals the cylinders is the head gasket.
And your a mechanic?
Yes, oil can leak into the spark plug tube channel through the seals, but he never said any coil stalks or plugs came out with any oil on them.
well i do have a little oil on my plug, coil stalk so will changing the valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals solve my problem? if not what what will because ive tried all of the above and i ordered the valve cover gasket set already
Last edited by joseph.mcgowen; 05-14-2011 at 10:32 AM.
#28
You sure its the valves and not the timing chain rattle. Or maybe you're low on oil. If its bent you would need to have it replaced.
#29
Not sure if it helps but Ive had "sticky" injectors before. Cyl 4 injector (thank god in the front) would "stick" closed ocassionally causing cyl 4 to die. couple taps on that bish from a screwdriver and shed b smooth as silk. ran some lucas thru it and hasnt done it since. also i find the best way to test injectors, would be ohm testing them, 10-14 ohms. and for rear ones tap on them first.....could b sticky...lol
#30
First off, are u sure u have bent valves? Have u completed compression test?
If your compression is off in one of your cylinders, i suggest replacing the engine with a low miles used engine. Dont try fixin that...it will be easier and less headache to jus replace the engine.
Something caused your compression to be off. So on top of fixing the compression issue, you also need to figure out what caused the compression issue in the first place and fix that as well.
It aint worth it. Jus replace the engine and be done with it.
#31
First off, are u sure u have bent valves? Have u completed compression test?
If your compression is off in one of your cylinders, i suggest replacing the engine with a low miles used engine. Dont try fixin that...it will be easier and less headache to jus replace the engine.
Something caused your compression to be off. So on top of fixing the compression issue, you also need to figure out what caused the compression issue in the first place and fix that as well.
It aint worth it. Jus replace the engine and be done with it.
If your compression is off in one of your cylinders, i suggest replacing the engine with a low miles used engine. Dont try fixin that...it will be easier and less headache to jus replace the engine.
Something caused your compression to be off. So on top of fixing the compression issue, you also need to figure out what caused the compression issue in the first place and fix that as well.
It aint worth it. Jus replace the engine and be done with it.
#32
How come I am just now finding out about this? We (local houstonians) could have diagnosed this within a matter of minutes if you would have posted this in the LOCAL forum....
Come to conn's @ westhiemer and hwy 6 tonight around 10pm, a few of us will be out there and we'll get to the bottom of it (bring a compression tester, rent one @ AZ).
No disrespect, but HOW SURE are you that you have a bent valve? A lot of people thing that VQ's have bent valves because of a noisy timing chain and loud clickity clacking injectors....
Come to conn's @ westhiemer and hwy 6 tonight around 10pm, a few of us will be out there and we'll get to the bottom of it (bring a compression tester, rent one @ AZ).
No disrespect, but HOW SURE are you that you have a bent valve? A lot of people thing that VQ's have bent valves because of a noisy timing chain and loud clickity clacking injectors....
#35
when i got my car it was running on 4 cyls changed all coil packs around no luck compression was good next thought their was a short finally something told me to replace the ecu. well that was the problem theirs resistors inside the ecu for each one of the coil packs and if one burns out that cyl will never fire.
let me know I'm pretty close to you and have all my tools and love working on the VQ's.
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