today i cleaned my MAF, IACV, EGR, throttle body, U + L IM and installed NWP spacers. finally get done everything and start the car and its idling at like 1500. then it starts creepin up and eventually starts idling at 3000-3300. now it pretty much stays at 3000. what could this be? we triple checked everything and every hose and harness is hooked up

maybe a vacuum leak on the u/l intake? just my 0.02

did you adjust the idle with the screw when you put everything back together? you're supposed to

forgot all about this!

Fail, No don't touch that ****.

Vaccum Leak or your tps.

when i did mine i only had to adjust it because it was broken off and i had to drill it out and re-tap it, maybe thats why i thought it was right, because mine has no initial setting to start with, but, TPS or vacuum leak are my thoughts too

yeah we tried messin with the screw already it wasnt the problem. im assuming it has to be a vaccum leak too i just dont get from where. would the TPS throw a code? im get that **** scanned again today.

make sure your iac is not stuck open.

There's your vacuum leak.

Spray WD-40 around that area, listen to see if your idle changes.

we figured this out after work when we had some light. by the time we started the car last night it was 9pm and dark. we didnt adjust the throttle cables to be longer than before to make up for the spacer. dumby mistake.

Darn, I was close, I was in the right ball park lol.

LAWLZ!~

lol indeed! lesson for future NWP installers.

ive got another question is our EGR tube vacuumed? or not? because i hear a slight hissing sound from around that area and i couldnt get that one nut on the bottom of the EGR tube all the way tight.

YEs it is. But i dont think it will cause much of issue cuz the whole point of EGR system is to keep the cylinders nice and hot. If atmospheric air mixes with exhaust gas the worst that shd happen is that the exhaust temp decreases a bit.

but it wont throw a code? half the point of all i did was to pass inspection. but it seems like she sounds a bit rough at the exhaust end of the car. like random coughs. and then the slight hissin under the hood.

bingo if the vacum line/hose to the EGR is broken or leaking it would cause it to idle high you can test if the EGR is working by removing the hose (ussally on the under side of the ERG) and apply a negitave vacum to it ... if it works the car should idle down.... if this happens and you replace that hose (assuming it has a crack/leak) that should help your high idle although that seems slightly high for just a vacum line leak justr one thing to eliminate from check list i guess good luck bud !

thanks for the reply i solved the high idle problem. it was the throttle cable length due to the spacers i installed. im just tryin to see if not tightening that last egr nut will do anything negative.

Both guide tube bolts must be on nice and tight and the gasket be in decent condition.
Its a real pain in the a$$ but its gotta be done, I learned that lesson the hard way.

good lookin out. i see multiple people sayin theyve gone years now without the gasket in the egr tube though.

In my case I had both bolts only hand tightened and no gasket as it was laying somewhere in the engine bay. Car woudnt run for shlt so the next day I found the gasket and reinstalled with real tightness, car was fine after that

word my bolts up top were on tight, its one of the nuts on the lower part of the EGR tube that i cant get all the way tight. its the one you can see, thats behind a another tube. making it impossible to get the nut and washers off.