jas1203

So, when I got my '95SE Auto from my uncle, it had an issue where you'd turn the key and nothing would happen--but only sometimes. Apparently he had noticed this for years, but never bothered to do anything about it. Sometimes it would crank first try, sometimes you'd have to try twice, and other times you'd have to fiddle with it for 5 minutes or more. Per advice from here, I changed the ignition switch. Bought a Beck/Arnley switch for around $30, Problem solved!

Four months later, it's doing it again--less frequently than before, and usually I only have to try once or twice, but today it gave me a two minute fight. It has a different quirk now. It seems like when you have the key in the start position and it does nothing, if you back off to the "on" position, you'll hear the starter engage for a split second, but nowhere near long enough to start it. This is when releasing tension on the key so that it backs off from start to "on." (so essentially in the reverse of where it should) It doesn't do this all the time, but it has a few times, and it didn't when the ignition switch was shot before.

When it cranks, it's good and strong, sounds normal, and starts fine, but when it doesn't, it's an annoyance.

Is it likely that I got a dud of a replacement part that died out early on me, or is there something else I should be looking at?

Thanks in advance for any input!

EDIT: For what it's worth, I went out with the camera hoping to get a video of the odd behavior described above. Tried a few starts, worked perfectly every time. I think I'm going to carry the camera and record every start hoping to capture it. That's how it goes, when you want it to act up, it's well behaved! Here's a video of a normal cold start: https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink Outside temp is around 75 degrees, but engine was cold. Sorry about the beginning and end--I had to turn off the A/C, and I had the radio up rather loud! Also got a small exhaust leak at the moment, but it gets the point across. Maybe someone else will hear an issue with the starter that I don't--or maybe I'm right and the starter is just fine?

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

When my starter began to fail it acted in a manner similar to what you describe. If the starter is old (8-10 years, depending on how much you use the car) it may be failing.

jas1203

Thanks for the input!

As far as I know, the starter is original, so that would make it sixteen years old, and it has 222,XXX miles on it.

This problem is pretty infrequent, but when it has an issue where it gives me trouble for a few minutes, I always have to worry if I'm just not going to be able to start it one of these days. I was leaning toward the ignition switch again, but it sounds like it may be the starter? How tough is that to swap out? I've done all the belts, oil changes, brakes, ignition switch myself, but I'm not sure what's involved in the starter.

mrglynis

You can definetly do the starter. Just remove all the air intake piping. Disconnect the battery. Then disconnect the cable going to the starter. After that its just 2 bolts. 1 14mm and 1 17mm. If its original, that 17mm is going to be a pain to get loose. Better have a breaker bar.

jas1203

Would you think I was nuts if I said I think it's heat-related? It did it again today when I got out of work--the car had been sitting in a hot lot for 7 hours, and I had to fiddle with it for a minute to get it to start. I have a video, but have to run out again so I'll post it later. The ONLY times it has given me a hard time is when it's been sitting in a really hot parking lot for a while...in the driveway it's always fine, maybe because I live at a high elevation and it's very shady. Might just be a coincidence, but worth throwing out there.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

I still think there is a good chance that its your starter. Especially if it's the original one. Heat can affect the operation of the starter. Starter is fairly easy to change.

jas1203

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

Once again, hot parking lot after sitting for several hours. Lousy cell phone video, but maybe you'll be able to hear where it kicks while releasing the tension on the key near the end.

wolf9305

well i couldnt watch the video but from what you are saying i would replace the ignition switch again
ive had a 1972 datsun 210 station wagon just sold 1 year ago and the starter was origianal had to replace the ignition switch 4 times since i owned it i had the car for 20 years i was the second owner i had similar problems with the iginition switch in several different types of cars i would check there first since u already just replaced it and if you have alot of stuff on your key ring if you can remove some of them if you dont need it the weight can cause problems after a while with ignition switches

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

You can change the ignition switch, it's easy and cheap enough and it may fix your problem. If not maybe then you can take a closer look at your starter. You can always pull the starter and have it tested.

jas1203

Thanks for the input!

jas1203

Okay, swapped the starter, but the problem continues (though I admit, this starter sounds a lot healthier in comparison to the last one). Switched all the relays that can control the starting sequence with others of the same type (for instance the horn). Same issue. There's one that's unique, though...an inhibitor clutch interlock relay. Pull this and it exhibits the same behavior that I see when it won't crank. There's no others of its type so I can't swap it. Think there's a good chance that this may be it?

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

There are two relay boxes under the hood. The second one is near the windshield washer reservoir. You may find the relay you need there.

Assuming you have an automatic. The inhibitor switch in the gear selector may be faulty. The inhibitor switch in the gear selector turns the inhibitor relay on when the car is in park or neutral. You could see if the car cranks in neutral if you are having trouble in park.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

It's more likely the inhibitor switch in the gear selector is faulty then the inhibitor relay.
The gear shift just may not be lining up properly to activate inhibitor switch. If I remember correctly there is some adjustment there.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

For testing purpose you could bypass the inhibitor circuit all together by removing the inhibitor relay and jumping pin 6 to pin 7 of that relay socket.

jas1203

The inhibitor clutch interlock is in the relay box near the battery on mine. I have a feeling it's not the gear shift position, because moving the gearshift never makes any difference as far as getting it to start. Also, it may seem crazy, but I'm still convinced it's heat related. It's never done this unless it's sat in a hot parking lot for a while.

twinmama09

but...I am a newbie. I have a 99 GLE. My harmonic balancer broke off about 3 weeks ago. That was replaced as well as the serpentine belt. The belt started squealing, it was tightened and quit. It started squealing again and the car was getting harder to start. I went to the store this morning, came back home to drop off milk and heat up my food. I went to leave out for work about 15 minutes later. My car wouldn't start. I just hear a single click. I can't tell if it's coming from the ignition switch or the engine though. Anyways, jumped the car, even put a new battery. Nothing. Everything works great in the car, no dimming or anything. My brakes are hard to push and hard to steer, and my brake light, oil light, and battery light are on. Any suggestions? I am strapped financially and don't and can't afford to fix a ton of things if it's not the problem. I know it can be the starter and/or solenoid switch, but is that it? Thanks

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

twinmama09, it sounds like your starter is bad. You can remove it and have it tested at autozone or some place like that.

bobflood

Got to tell you that I think it's most likely the ignition switch again. If vendor you purchased the Beck/Arnold from won't replace it for free, bite the bullet and get a Nissan part. I did it a couple of years ago and it's been fine since - part was $48 from local dealer.

twinmama09

I was thinking it was either the starter or solenoid switch. I know nothing about cars though except for what I have watched my ex husband do and what I have learned online. Would that make the battery, brake, and oil light come on? And would it make the steering and brakes hard also? Just want to make sure it's not something to do with the belt before I spend the money on a starter. I am having someone come over today and take my starter off and have it tested though. Thank you

99zx2

iTrader: (3)

op, have you tried pressing the gas pedal while cranking? had a similar issue happen with wife's car (i30): didn't start, no click, silence. pressed the gas while turning the key and it started. she had a faulty switch that i've replaced since.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

I've read in here that iffy ing. switches are sensitive to warmer cabin temperatures. Starters experience heat soak where you turn off a hot engine, and the starter absorbs heat from the engine. This effects the solenoid, rather than the starter and would not be an issue after work where the car sat for hours in the lot.

jas1203

Tried the Nissan dealer here, they didn't have that relay in stock...but it was only aroudn $20, so I ordered it. Can't hurt...that basically replaces everything except the ignition switch (and the inhibitor switch--but I have a feeling that isn't it). If it's not it, I'll change the ignition switch again.

If I remember correctly last time the ignition switch was going, though, I don't think I got a click at all when I turned the key. Now I do...guess I'll have to swap the relay and see after that. Guess the upside is in my troubleshooting, I'll have replaced a good portion of the ignition/starting system.

I haven't tried hitting the gas when I turned the key, the thought never actually occurred to me because I immediately figured it's electrical so it won't make any difference. I'll have to try it next time.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

You should clean your battery terminals if you have not done that yet.

ef9

iTrader: (8)

+1

On my old Honda Civic, the battery terminals weren't tight against the battery posts. The car wouldn't start at all. Problem was intermittent and took me a month to figure out where the problem was.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

You get corrosive buildup on the terminals. Sometimes the starter gets enough current to turn over and sometimes it does not. It's a very common problem.

Inspecting and keeping the terminals clean is a basic maintence item that most people overlook.

jas1203

I actually did that when I swapped out the starter...there was almost no corrosion, and I tightened the wires up good when I put them back on the battery.

bobflood

OK - I think that's new information. If you are getting a click from a relay or solenoid, your ignition switch is working fine. Your problem is downstream from that - probably the starter solenoid.

jas1203

Starter solenoid was replaced with the starter, and that wasn't it.

I replaced the inhibitor relay today, and it's been first try every time so far, even after sitting in a hot lot. It'll take some more time to make sure, but I think that was what it was!

bobflood

Sounds like you got it. Thanks for reporting back and letting everyone know.