o2 Clean and Re-use
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 375
From: Ottawa
o2 Clean and Re-use
Other than, or in addition to, using a blowtorch to clean off any residue, is there any kind of solution that will be insure the re-use of the after-cat 4 wire sensor?
Last edited by rhonster; Jun 2, 2011 at 05:17 PM.
Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 123
From: Arizona
I have had good use of this stuff http://www.eastwood.com/crc-lectra-m...s-cleaner.html
I used it on o2 sensors and got 20000 more miles on one and 18000 on another vehicle. I also used it on light sockets on my old Bronco.
Make sure when using on electronics, everything is completely dry before turning on.
I used it on o2 sensors and got 20000 more miles on one and 18000 on another vehicle. I also used it on light sockets on my old Bronco.
Make sure when using on electronics, everything is completely dry before turning on.
ive used it on my o2's several times, no ill effects. O2's still working.
I have never heard of this. I supposed I might have been programmed to replace parts in school and in the field. What bothers me is that I am a firm believer in fixing and cleaning what you have (starters, alts, etc.).
I will try this with my rear o2 sensor. 99greddymax, how many times have you done this and how many additional miles has it netted you?
I will try this with my rear o2 sensor. 99greddymax, how many times have you done this and how many additional miles has it netted you?
Borrowed from bimmerforums
Hey guys,
after doing about an hour of research online for problems regarding O2 sensors and MAF / HFM problems it seems there is a common theme throughout. But before I state anything though i want to let you all know to take this information at your own risk and etc.
After doing my research it seems that many of the other forums from american cars to jap cars and even a audi/benz forums have found some solutions to clean the O2 sensors and MAF/HFMs. Everyone seems to use CRC brand "QD electronic cleaner" for both O2 sensors and airflow sensors. it is a special cleaner that has NO RESIDUE in it so when it dries it dries 100% clean with no oils or etc as if it were brand new. For the airflow sensors they sprayed it from a safe distance (as far away as possible) in order to be careful b/c of the sensitive electronics (you don't want to powerblast the sensor close range). The O2 sensor they sprayed the outsides and insides with the same cleaner and saw great results: better gas mileage, better running car, all check engine / warning lights went away.
I see alot of people on this forum replacing O2 sensors and HFM's which can get very expensive. After reading up on these issues on other forums i have read horror stories where people replaced hundreds of $ worth of parts and when they cleaned HFM and O2 sensor all their problems went away. One forum member said he has been using the same O2 sensor for over 6 years jus t simply cleaning it over and over again (as long as electrical components are still intact then it should continue to work).
I just thought i'd share this information with you guys so we don't keep have to replacing these expensive components. Again use this information at your own risk but for those of you who already have failing HFM/O2 sensors it might be worth it to give it a shot and see what the results are b/c you have nothing to lose, it worked for others so it may work for you as well.
Originally Posted by SupaBimma
Hey guys,
after doing about an hour of research online for problems regarding O2 sensors and MAF / HFM problems it seems there is a common theme throughout. But before I state anything though i want to let you all know to take this information at your own risk and etc.
After doing my research it seems that many of the other forums from american cars to jap cars and even a audi/benz forums have found some solutions to clean the O2 sensors and MAF/HFMs. Everyone seems to use CRC brand "QD electronic cleaner" for both O2 sensors and airflow sensors. it is a special cleaner that has NO RESIDUE in it so when it dries it dries 100% clean with no oils or etc as if it were brand new. For the airflow sensors they sprayed it from a safe distance (as far away as possible) in order to be careful b/c of the sensitive electronics (you don't want to powerblast the sensor close range). The O2 sensor they sprayed the outsides and insides with the same cleaner and saw great results: better gas mileage, better running car, all check engine / warning lights went away.
I see alot of people on this forum replacing O2 sensors and HFM's which can get very expensive. After reading up on these issues on other forums i have read horror stories where people replaced hundreds of $ worth of parts and when they cleaned HFM and O2 sensor all their problems went away. One forum member said he has been using the same O2 sensor for over 6 years jus t simply cleaning it over and over again (as long as electrical components are still intact then it should continue to work).
I just thought i'd share this information with you guys so we don't keep have to replacing these expensive components. Again use this information at your own risk but for those of you who already have failing HFM/O2 sensors it might be worth it to give it a shot and see what the results are b/c you have nothing to lose, it worked for others so it may work for you as well.
Last edited by asand1; Jun 3, 2011 at 11:38 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,352
From: ELGIN,IL
If the heater circuit fails the sensor needs to be replaced
I have used brake clean once and I pooped all over the sensor and had to be replaced as a result the chemicals in brake clean kill o2s
I've had a perfectly fine o2 poop out cuz of brake clean it's bad news don't do it
I have used brake clean once and I pooped all over the sensor and had to be replaced as a result the chemicals in brake clean kill o2s
I've had a perfectly fine o2 poop out cuz of brake clean it's bad news don't do it
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 4,005
From: Worcester, MA
i like the part about spraying the MAF from a safe distance.
I really think this is the cause or worsening of ppl's problems. They powerblast the MAF with cleaner and damage the filter element.
Whats funny is, if u read the back of the bottle, it tells u to spray at least 6" away from the element.
I scanned for codes today after having the CEL on for the longest time. Still just the 0707 (Rear Heated O2 sensor). I cleared it, and cleaned my O2 with AGS Electro Contact Cleaner.
http://www.agscompany.com/lubricants/homehardware/177
The light stayed off after a short drive to the beach and back. Will report back after 2 weeks.
http://www.agscompany.com/lubricants/homehardware/177
The light stayed off after a short drive to the beach and back. Will report back after 2 weeks.
Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 184
Bad O2 sensor will not always throw a code. For an O2 sensor the high to low voltage cycling is known as crosscounts, becomes slower and this affects fuel mileage and drivability. For a new O2 sensor (not the newer A/F sensors) crosscounts typically about 3 per second, but I think the minimum spec on my 87 is less than 1 per second. Still the faster the better . Check your specs.
If you are good with electronics you can get an idea of the crosscounts by backprobing (leave the O2 plugged in to the harness) with your accurate Dig Volt Meter (DVM) across the ECM +- data leads. Most of us don't have a oscilloscope for the best accuracy, but this will give rough idea. I usually begin the test with cold start, so I can check the peak 02 voltage at enrichment at open loop. Then take readings once it warms up. You'll need to rev to about 2000- 3000 rpm, hold for 15 sec and should at minimum get peak to 0.9 V and min low .1 V. Pull a vacuum hose to get it lean to get the min voltage. My '87 has a O2 diagnostic built into the ECM where you count the number of flashes in 10 seconds (10 flashes in 10 seconds). Not sure if the 4th gen has this function, but will still not give the peak voltage amplitude. This procedure is at your own risk
and there are more details on the web to check O2s.
I would not clean the sensor - just replace it. With cleaning there's a good chance damage it and then the ECM may run open loop or run rich A/F and over time this may kill your cat.
If you are good with electronics you can get an idea of the crosscounts by backprobing (leave the O2 plugged in to the harness) with your accurate Dig Volt Meter (DVM) across the ECM +- data leads. Most of us don't have a oscilloscope for the best accuracy, but this will give rough idea. I usually begin the test with cold start, so I can check the peak 02 voltage at enrichment at open loop. Then take readings once it warms up. You'll need to rev to about 2000- 3000 rpm, hold for 15 sec and should at minimum get peak to 0.9 V and min low .1 V. Pull a vacuum hose to get it lean to get the min voltage. My '87 has a O2 diagnostic built into the ECM where you count the number of flashes in 10 seconds (10 flashes in 10 seconds). Not sure if the 4th gen has this function, but will still not give the peak voltage amplitude. This procedure is at your own risk
and there are more details on the web to check O2s.I would not clean the sensor - just replace it. With cleaning there's a good chance damage it and then the ECM may run open loop or run rich A/F and over time this may kill your cat.
Last edited by Edge; Jun 8, 2011 at 09:11 AM.
Bad O2 sensor will not always throw a code. For an O2 sensor the high to low voltage cycling is known as crosscounts, becomes slower and this affects fuel mileage and drivability. For a new O2 sensor (not the newer A/F sensors) crosscounts typically about 3 per second, but I think the minimum spec on my 87 is less than 1 per second. Still the faster the better . Check your specs.
If you are good with electronics you can get an idea of the crosscounts by backprobing (leave the O2 plugged in to the harness) with your accurate Dig Volt Meter (DVM) across the ECM +- data leads. Most of us don't have a oscilloscope for the best accuracy, but this will give rough idea. I usually begin the test with cold start, so I can check the peak 02 voltage at enrichment at open loop. Then take readings once it warms up. You'll need to rev to about 2000- 3000 rpm, hold for 15 sec and should at minimum get peak to 0.9 V and min low .1 V. Pull a vacuum hose to get it lean to get the min voltage. My '87 has a O2 diagnostic built into the ECM where you count the number of flashes in 10 seconds (10 flashes in 10 seconds). Not sure if the 4th gen has this function, but will still not give the peak voltage amplitude. This procedure is at your own risk and there are more details on the web to check O2s..
If you are good with electronics you can get an idea of the crosscounts by backprobing (leave the O2 plugged in to the harness) with your accurate Dig Volt Meter (DVM) across the ECM +- data leads. Most of us don't have a oscilloscope for the best accuracy, but this will give rough idea. I usually begin the test with cold start, so I can check the peak 02 voltage at enrichment at open loop. Then take readings once it warms up. You'll need to rev to about 2000- 3000 rpm, hold for 15 sec and should at minimum get peak to 0.9 V and min low .1 V. Pull a vacuum hose to get it lean to get the min voltage. My '87 has a O2 diagnostic built into the ECM where you count the number of flashes in 10 seconds (10 flashes in 10 seconds). Not sure if the 4th gen has this function, but will still not give the peak voltage amplitude. This procedure is at your own risk
and there are more details on the web to check O2s..Again, it's the rear sensor, I wasn't gonna change it anyways. I just wanted to try to get the light off. I've always replaced O2 sensors, Im just experimenting here. Its possible that the sensors just foul and are physically fine. It could be that we are spending money on something that is largely misunderstood. Would you pay $150.00 for a K&N filter and then replace it every 5K, or would you clean/oil it?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 375
From: Ottawa
I use universal 3 and 4 wire 02 sensors from eBay, Edgardo Valero always has a good price and can sub on the 4 wire for about $18. They don't last forever, I need a 4 wire since I replaced my post cat in 2003 and it is shot now it looks.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 4,005
From: Worcester, MA
Havent done the math, but it has never been bad. At any rate the rear sensor wouldn't affect MPG. I think MAF cleaner would be good. Any thing that leave no residue. Brake cleaner supposidly leaves no residue so it might even work.
As long as the CEL stays off, thats all I care about on the rear sensor.
Again, it's the rear sensor, I wasn't gonna change it anyways. I just wanted to try to get the light off. I've always replaced O2 sensors, Im just experimenting here. Its possible that the sensors just foul and are physically fine. It could be that we are spending money on something that is largely misunderstood. Would you pay $150.00 for a K&N filter and then replace it every 5K, or would you clean/oil it?
As long as the CEL stays off, thats all I care about on the rear sensor.
Again, it's the rear sensor, I wasn't gonna change it anyways. I just wanted to try to get the light off. I've always replaced O2 sensors, Im just experimenting here. Its possible that the sensors just foul and are physically fine. It could be that we are spending money on something that is largely misunderstood. Would you pay $150.00 for a K&N filter and then replace it every 5K, or would you clean/oil it?
I agree. The sensors get so fouled that they no longer read properly and throw a code. Why replace the sensor when all u have to do is clean it and its good as new.
Its been 60 miles for u and if the light was gonna come back on then it would have. Ima use the electrical cleaner.
Im sold
85 Miles pre-fill up with 89 on the trip meter =174 Miles today.
Next week the max will get 250miles driving to/from work. We will see. I do not know if this is the original sensor, but it IS NTK with a burger stamped on it.
Next week the max will get 250miles driving to/from work. We will see. I do not know if this is the original sensor, but it IS NTK with a burger stamped on it.
Last edited by asand1; Jun 8, 2011 at 11:37 AM.
Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 184
Havent done the math, but it has never been bad.
Again, it's the rear sensor, I wasn't gonna change it anyways. I just wanted to try to get the light off. I've always replaced O2 sensors, Im just experimenting here. Its possible that the sensors just foul and are physically fine. It could be that we are spending money on something that is largely misunderstood. Would you pay $150.00 for a K&N filter and then replace it every 5K, or would you clean/oil it?
Again, it's the rear sensor, I wasn't gonna change it anyways. I just wanted to try to get the light off. I've always replaced O2 sensors, Im just experimenting here. Its possible that the sensors just foul and are physically fine. It could be that we are spending money on something that is largely misunderstood. Would you pay $150.00 for a K&N filter and then replace it every 5K, or would you clean/oil it?
I appreciate the experiment
. For most cars I don't think I would use an K&N no matter the price - but that's another thread . But, to me the two items are not the same. K&N has a manufacture defined maintainence procedure, while the O2 sensors don't. O2 are a wear item and get replaced. Still cleaning an O2 a controversial thing - a lot of debate. If it is fouled out and can be cleaned, it might be due to another problem. It could be good thing to do for a diagnostic before it is replaced. Anyway, just trying to help out. Let us know how it goes.
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 76
From: San Diego, CA
What was the code? I have a p0130 code on mine and if I'm not mistaken it's the O2 sensor by the p/s. I do have a p/s leak and it has the wiring soaked with p/s oil. I'm going to fix the leak, clean the sensor and clear the code we'll see what I get tomorrow. By the way, the car has been with out a battery for 4 months just installed it yesterday and let the car crank but I didn't let it start cause I wanted to just prime the fuel and oil system first. I hooked up my scanner just out of curiosity and p0130 was already showing up and that's without the car having a chance to even run yet.
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