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feeler gauge tps

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Old 07-04-2011, 05:08 PM
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feeler gauge tps

So, I had to replace my tps sensor, I got a duralast tps sensor and followed the instructions on this website. I'm using the feeler gauge to calibrate the tps, but I'm having difficulty with it. Basically, I followed the instructions and I get continuity (about 60 ohms) on the ctps switch with the 0.012 in feeler gauge and 0.016 in. I spent a good hr or so trying different rotations to get it but I still receive continuity with 0.016. Now if I physically move the throttle drum stomp just a tad bit, I receive no continuity on the ctps switch. Am I missing something, am I doing something wrong? Below is the location I'm probing the feeler gauge. I feel like this is closest calibration I can do, unless I'm doing something wrong.

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Old 07-04-2011, 06:47 PM
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I've used nothing but the OEM TPS but the duralast TPS sounds as sensitive as the OEM. Yes you mounted the feeler guage correctly. The engine has to be warmed up with the plate fully colsed.

I swapped TPSs between TBs the other day because of a malfunctioning thermovalve. I used jumper wires connecting the inner 2 pins of the TP switch to a multimeter. I inserted 0.014" at the stopper screw. With the TPS mounting bolts (I replaced the screws with bolts) just loose enough so it can be moved, I rotate the TPS very slowly CCW until I get a continuity reading. I then immediately hand tighen one of those bolts with an extended socket. After I tighten both bolts with the wrench I then recheck the TP switch with the multimeter.

I had to try it maybe 4 times before the TP switch wouldn't close above 0.016".

Last edited by jholley; 07-04-2011 at 07:00 PM.
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Old 07-04-2011, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by jholley
I've used nothing but the OEM TPS but the duralast TPS sounds as sensitive as the OEM. Yes you mounted the feeler guage correctly. The engine has to be warmed up with the plate fully colsed.

I swapped TPSs between TBs the other day because of a malfunctioning thermovalve. I used jumper wires connecting the inner 2 pins of the TP switch to a multimeter. I inserted 0.014" at the stopper screw. With the TPS mounting bolts (I replaced the screws with bolts) just loose enough so it can be moved, I rotate the TPS very slowly CCW until I get a continuity reading. I then immediately hand tighen one of those bolts with an extended socket. After I tighten both bolts with the wrench I then recheck the TP switch with the multimeter.

I had to try it maybe 4 times before the TP switch wouldn't close above 0.016".

My engine has been cold for the past week or so.. so maybe I need to get it warm before I calibrate it. Thats a smart idea you did of inserting 0.014 gauge and then rotating the tps. I'll try that tomorrow, what I was doing was rotating the tps until I got continuity w/o inserting any gauge first, tightening the tps, and then checking with the gauge. Did you have to reset idle air control rpm as well?
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Old 07-05-2011, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by kasemodz
My engine has been cold for the past week or so.. so maybe I need to get it warm before I calibrate it. Thats a smart idea you did of inserting 0.014 gauge and then rotating the tps. I'll try that tomorrow, what I was doing was rotating the tps until I got continuity w/o inserting any gauge first, tightening the tps, and then checking with the gauge. Did you have to reset idle air control rpm as well?
You need a warm engine with a closed plate to perform this. The engine still idled at 650rpm after installing my TPS on a different TB so I let it be.

If you were able to insert the feeler guage on a cold engine it sounds like your fast idle CAM is not working? On a cold eninge the thermovalve plunger slides back in allowing that strong spring to slightly push open the butterfly plate.

While you slowly rotate the TPS CCW in one hand, as soon as you get a continuity reading tighten one of the mounting screws.
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