struts and lca bushings
07-23-2011, 07:42 PM
#41
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Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 160
i have a bunch of giant screw drivers, crowbars, and metal dowels that i'm trying to use but nothing's making it budge. i tried hammering and torching it and i poured fluid on it and let it sit overnight. destroyed to ball joint's boot to get a better space to work with but i have the same results.
man this job looked so easy on paper, but i guess nothing ever goes the way it should. any other suggestions besides a ball joint fork? not a fan of getting tools that only have a single, very specific purpose
man this job looked so easy on paper, but i guess nothing ever goes the way it should. any other suggestions besides a ball joint fork? not a fan of getting tools that only have a single, very specific purpose
07-23-2011, 07:47 PM
#42
You could pull the axle back, remove the brakes, and take the spindle and control arm off in one piece...then pry them apart in a vice.
Get on top of the ball joint nut and just pry downwards...it should eventually give.
Get on top of the ball joint nut and just pry downwards...it should eventually give.
07-24-2011, 07:20 AM
#44
Well you sure got it easy. When I replaced my LCAs last year I had to remove the axle and brake. No way in hell an open end wrench could of removed that rusted castle nut on the ball joint. After grinding off the pin I used a 4' breaker bar to loosen the catle nut.
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...placement.html
07-24-2011, 06:14 PM
#45
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Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 160
in the exact same position as the other lca -.- so anything i should know before i take off the breaks?
nvm again lol. realized another solution:
screw or unscrew the castle nut so that there is a slight gap between the nut and the cv joint. place a chisel, large flat head screw driver, or any other metal wedge in the gap and just start hammering. this basically does the exact same thing as a ball joint tool but in a different area (after all the ball joint tool really is just two metal wedges) this might not be the best thing to do if you're keeping the ball joint, but my castle nut and the threads on the ball joint stud seemed fine
on this frozen control arm it took less than a minute of hammering in that awkward position, with an 8 oz hammer and a bad hand(injured my knuckles last week)
nvm again lol. realized another solution:
screw or unscrew the castle nut so that there is a slight gap between the nut and the cv joint. place a chisel, large flat head screw driver, or any other metal wedge in the gap and just start hammering. this basically does the exact same thing as a ball joint tool but in a different area (after all the ball joint tool really is just two metal wedges) this might not be the best thing to do if you're keeping the ball joint, but my castle nut and the threads on the ball joint stud seemed fine
on this frozen control arm it took less than a minute of hammering in that awkward position, with an 8 oz hammer and a bad hand(injured my knuckles last week)
Last edited by Perseus; 07-24-2011 at 11:33 PM.
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