What is the proper order for the idler tensioner assembly? I've researched on the org and I'm not able to find a definite assembly order breakdown of this. Here is what I found and tell me if this is the correct assembly order (this was from a 93 maxima, scroll down to post #4) : http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...lley-help.html

And

Courtesy Parts Link: This one confuses me a bit because there are more washers and parts here than in the above link.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...1822_1844.html

I need to know the accurate # of parts for the assembly or any real pics! Thx

 

The Courtesy description has it in order.

 

You should look a little better here you go.....
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-assembly.html

 

Thx but, I did see this thread. He is missing the thick spacer in that pic. I was trying to find it already assembled in order with pics.

 

Also, is the 93 maxima tensioner assembly order the same as the link I posted up?

 

I'm also confused on which way the pulley wheel faces.

 

the thick spacer is in between the pulley wheel (probably in the picture its already on the wheel) and the bolt adjuster. the courtesy parts page is pretty self explanatory

 

its more like this... theres 2 different ones

http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...1648_1670.html

i thought you were looking for a 4th gen?????

 

Ok, thx. I'm gonna be working on it today and see how it works out. The problem I'm having is the pulley rubbing and spinning against the tensioner adjuster, which caused it to cut through.

 

That should be fine. Mine had been cut through some of the way and it still works. I might be missing the spacer but, again, it works. The spacer goes between the pulley and the long tensioner. And the pulley should be facing just like it does in the previous photos. Just remember that the open ended more cut out circular side of the pulley goes towards the engine and the smaller opening goes out toward the fender. Hope that helps.

 

Ok, thx. Well, after assembling the tensioner and testing it on the car, it turned out my pulley bearing was bad. Everything was fine until I revved the engine and the bearing in the pulley was coming out Looks like I will be ordering the entire tensioner assembly w/ pulley from Courtesy Nissan, I think that's the best route instead of buying it in pieces.

 

Dude, the pulley is only about $20 from AutoZone... And the tensioner should only be replaced if it's bent or warped. That's what I did on my friends max when we over-tightened the tensioner and it snapped. The tensioner assembly, $7 from a junkyard, and the pulley was only, like I said, about $20, with a year or 2 of warranty. Don't go spending on overpriced items from courtesy that would take days to ship when you could just go into your autozone and get it done that same day. If it's the bearing, just buy the pulley. If you want to make sure it's the correct pulley, bring it with you to when you buy it from them. That's just my .02


Here's the link for the pulley from autozone. http://www.autozone.com:80/autozone/...er=445425_0_0_

it's $22.99. I was just rounding an estimate. Hope it helps.

 

Thx for your help and info. I hear what your saying but, I've been having some on and off problems with this ENTIRE tensioner pulley assembly. I changed the pulley about a year 1/2 ago. I broke the tensioner adjuster earlier this year and bought one from the dealer. I'm tired of buying bits and pieces here and there. Also, I think somewhere along the line I screwed up the assembly (missing parts). Once I get the entire Nissan tensioner assembly, it will solve my problem.

 

Does anyone know why the pulley tensioner goes towards the tensioner adjuster and rubs on it, causing sparks to fly? This happens when the car is on and when you rev the engine. It's like the more you rev it the more the tensioner pulley draws closer to the tensioner adjuster and also the belt kind of moves off of the pulley too.

 

Anyone????

 

this is over my head vibes man.

I wd have jus bought a new tensioner and had my mech install

 

Ok, thx cashoit. Hopefully when I get my brand new tensioner assembly this won't be a problem. I think my idler pulley wheel and bearing is the cause of this.

 

I don't remember. I have a thread asking the same question. Being impatient, I tried both ways. 1 way rubs, the other doesn't. Problem solved.

My pulley exploded on me while on the highway 300 miles from home... Luckily I knew it was going to happen cuz it was making noise and like the poster above said, I bought a spare pulley and just kept it in the trunk plus tools necessary.

Also as noted above, if you're not sure, buy the whole assembly, then sell the old one on this forum.

Dr J

 

Yeah, that's what I'm gonna do. I'm gonna just buy the whole assembly. Thx for the input.

 

Ok, I finally got my brand new Tensioner pulley assembly and got everything fixed! I bought it from an Infiniti dealer in New Jersey on ebay! It was $60 shipped!

 

Yeah sometimes you just have to cough up the money. The tensioner is over 10 years old. When I changed mine it wouldn't get tight enough so I bought a new one.

 

Yeah, that's true...

 

Pulley is still hitting adjuster rod even though i have 1/4 spacer between pulley and the rod

 

Is there a specific order to get the Idler tensioner off the block to replace the whole thing? I am having a rough time doing so. I looked at the OEM service manual I have on disk, but it is very limited on info. and doesn't tell the order you are to do to remove the tensioner. HELP!!!!!!! please.

 

Neither of your links open up to a page that works.

 

probably because this is a 10 year old thread.

remove nut on pulley, remove pulley, remove bolts holding bracket to engine.