bgsl1ck

iTrader: (3)

I have a 97 4th gen and it won't start took the starter out and had it checked at a few place all said it was good. So I put it back in replaced the battery and when I try to start the car all I get is a click. I tested the plug with a volt meter and it gets power when unplug from the starter, but once it's pluged up nothing and anyone help please.

can some one please help...

asand1

iTrader: (1)

If the battery is new and the starter tests good, you have a bad connection. If the connections wiggle at all they are too loose. Is there any corrosion on the cables? How do the connections look at the block and starter solenoid? Do a voltage drop test on each cable. Connect a voltmeter to both ends of the same cable. Crank to see voltage drop (resistance under load). With your issue you will see a drop of 11+ volts. Find out wwich cable it is and fix or replace. I'll look for a video I made awhile ago.

Here they are.

bgsl1ck

iTrader: (3)

I watched the videos but the car doesn't do anything not even turn over.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

I know that. If you hear a click it means the solenoid is working, but there is a sh!tty connection and too much resistance for the starter motor. Do the test to find the ****ty connection. then fix.

bgsl1ck

iTrader: (3)

ok car wont click or nothing when the key is turned but if you turn and turn and turn it will start when it wants to...

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Lets go back to basics and start all over again.

First, get a volt meter and measure the battery voltage. It better be 12 volts.
Second, have someone turn the key to the start position and hold it in the start position. Measure the battery voltage. Since the car probably is not cranking, the battery voltage should 12 volts.
Third. Measure battery voltage in 2 different places. From ground (not the battery negative terminal) to the battery positive terminal. Note the exact reading (i.e., 12.0, 12.05, 12.1) It should be 12 volts, the same as step 1. Then measure voltage from ground to the starter where the thick cable attaches. It should be identical to the previous reading.

Do this and report back with the voltage numbers.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

If the relay is not clicking, then test for 12V at the signal wire while turning key to crank.
Things to check;
solenoid
inhibiter relay (one I had removed in videos)
clutch pedal/PN switch
ignition switch

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Are you saying that when turning the key to the start position, it will only sometimes try to start? When it doesn't start, try jiggling the key around while keeping it in the start position. If it works then, replace the ignition switch.

cashoit

Jus because the starter bench tested fine doesnt mean it will work properly when a load is applied to it.

My money is on the starter being bad.

"click" is classic starter issue.

Chucho

if the battery is good, starters good, try changing the ignition switch.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

That's exactly what happened with my 97. The starter couldn't crank the engine over but would spin under a no-load test. But the starter would click like a low battery every time. The op says he doesn't always get a click.

Over all, I also think that it is the starter.

I also think that the op is pretty confused and not sure of what he is doing.

Browe

my nissan keeps turning over but not starting ive changed the ignition coil and it still isnt firing its an 87 could it have a crank sensor

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

What does this have to do with the 4th gen? If you've got an '87 (assuming a Maxima, since you neither specified nor have you filled out your profile), then go to the 2nd gen section.

Mmmaxx

I have similar problems, but I am at a god damn loss.
My 99 has 125,000 miles on it always well maintained and serviced etc.

Since i hit about 95,000 miles a few years ago I've had to replace my starter about 5 times. Originally the starter in the car was factory and obviously old and definitely didn't work anymore when tested. I replaced it with some OEM crap from autozone and then my car started fine for probably 6,000 miles or so and then I ran into the same problem again. I tested the ground wires and voltage etc and everything seemed fine so I exchanged the starter at autozone with another rebuilt one, put it in and it started up with out any problems. Fast forward another 5-8K miles and it happens again. This time I replaced the ground cables and wires running to the starter just in case, also replaced my Optima RedTop with a new one, but still no start, replaced the starter and it worked... so at this point everything was basically new. Last october my starter failed yet again and after checking everything which I knew how I was at a god damn loss, I couldn't understand why my car would be blowing through starters at this rate since the factory one lasted for 90,000+ miles.

I called a Nissan tech that I was reffered to by my regular shop guy and he came out to my place with a bunch of equipment to test everything out and he told me everything was fine so it had to be the starter again. This time I foot the bill for a brand new nissan starter, no rebuilt ****. Car started right up, the guy did some more testing on the electrical etc. Concluded the starter was bad, but when I brought it to Autozone to try and get my money back the guy popped it into their tester and it spun fine and said it was in perfect working condition...

About two weeks ago my car began having starting problem yet again only rather than a click or attempt to turn over it literally seems completely dead as if my battery is drained completely. I had someone listen under the hood as I tried to start and they heard nothing from the starter. So I took a wrench and smacked the **** out of the solenoid and then my car instantly turns on there isn't even any drag in the starter sound like you might hear when it's going bad and the brushes are jammed up inside.

So now, for the past two weeks my car has randomly been starting or not when it feels like it, though it seems the longer it sits in the beating heat/sun the less likely it is to start. Every time a smack from a wrench gets it to start up with out any problems. Hell, one time I didn't even have to hit it, I just tapped very slightly and it started.

So right now, I have no idea what the hell the problem could be everything is essentially less than a year old and was all brand new and not rebuilt. I've replaced the ignition switch in the last two months as somehow the programming in my key was erased so it had to be fixed by Nissan and they replaced the ignition switch then they reprogrammed the key etc.

Anyone have any clue as to why i'd be going through so many starters like this when everything else tests perfectly fine according to Nissan techs, my normal mechanic? I have a really hard time believing the starter is again bad as that would just mean I have the worse damn luck with starters ever.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Replace the solenoid and your golden. Reman starters are just old starters with one new part to fix what made them a core in the first place. You install a reman starter and the second most worn part fails in 6K.

infinimax96

I had a similar problem in my 96' I30 and it ended up being the ignition switch. When I pulled it out the part that meets up with the key switch was all stripped out from all the starting over the years. New switch cost me $30 at autozone. Starts every time now with no fail.

Good luck!

Blakfreestyle

iTrader: (1)

You did forget the most basic test though. Test the starter while installed on the car using jumper wires. This can then pinpoint if the starter itself is bad or your ignition switch/ wiring etc. Try this and get back to us.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

^I have a pistol grip remote starter switch for this reason.

jas1203

If you replace the ignition switch, you might want to go with an OEM one...I went through a Beck/Arnley and some other brand pretty quick...they both worked good for a while, then started having issues. Put in an OEM one, and it's outlived both of the others. The original went to about 215K without issues.

Maybe I just had bad luck of the draw with the aftermarkets.

cashoit

So if u replace with a new starter and ignition switch and your car going through starters like nobody's bizness.

Does your car take longer than normal to start? U have to measure the amperage at the starter to see if u pulling too much current.

U clean the mating surface for the starter is it is grounded through its body and needs good electrical conductivity with the engine.

Clean ground in general.

might jus be bad luck with starters. Pull a couple from the junk yard and jus keep em around

Mmmaxx

The starter was brand new from Nissan less than 5,000 miles ago. When the car does start, even after smaking the solenoid with a wrench, the car starts up with 0 lag. I had the electrical tested and was told everything was good, so I still have no idea what the problem is. I'm going to pull the starter today and have it tested, there is absolutely no reason why it should be failing like this.

MikeF

Did you try bypassing the starter switch like was suggested earlier?

Run a short piece of wire from the small black connector that the ignition switch excites, to the Plus terminal of the battery (MAKE SURE the car is in Neutral)!. This bypasses the ignition switch and relays.

If it turns over, then your problem is the ignition switch or relay. If it doesn't turn over then it's a starter problem (or battery or cables).

Mik

asand1

iTrader: (1)

IT IS YOUR SOLENOID. The fact that tapping it will make it start proves it.
The solenoid is sticking, and tapping releases it. The plunger is resonsible for making the electrical contact for the starter motor and moving the bendix into ingagement. If its a NEW NISSAN starter, get a solenoid and be happy you still have a NEW OEM part.

Make sure you clean the mating surfaces of starter/solenoid, and starter/transmission for grounding purposes.

Mmmaxx

Update for my problem. Turns out it was in fact the starter, but not the solenoid. It's the motor itself was jammed and not moving even when tested bypassing the solenoid. The guy tells me he's never seen a brand new starter fail in this short of time. Again it's been less than a year and probably about 5,000 miles or so. Luckily he's going to replace it with a brand new starter free of charge.

Biggest pain in the *** and worst luck with starters I guess. Good thing I plan on selling this thing in the next month since I don't use it daily anymore.

jholley

iTrader: (13)

I had to tap my OEM starter earlier this year to get it started. Cleaning the solenoid switch with a wire brush and scrubbing it with electrical cleaner solved the problem.