Im having some issues with a cel for my knock sensor. When I first bought the car, it pulled hard and lost traction in first and second. But not long after, the car felt like it had lost power and was becoming "sluggish" in comparison to before. After running my code scanner, I found out that my car had 5 codes for the following:
knock sensor
iacv
maf/boro solenoid
egr temp. sensor
evap canister
So, I went ahead and removed the upper and lower intake manifold to take a closer look at the wiring harness and the knock sensor itself and it all checked out fine. But, to be on the safe side, I went to Nissan to go and buy a new sensor. Instead of buying a new one, one of the guys that worked there was cool enough to go in the back and give me a used knock sensor for free so I went ahead and installed that. Put everything back together and fired it up and cleared the code. The power was still not the same and eventually, the code came back again. Im stumped on this one. Im not sure if the other cel's are triggering the knock sensor code if they even are related at all, but that doesn't explain the sluggish performance. Im also unsure about what the p.o. did with the knock sensor. Not sure if the car has a 3.5 knock sensor or a 3.0 knock sensor and harness. Id be willing to remove the upper and lower intake manifold to snap some pics if that would help verify what im working with here.

BTW: Motor is a 3.5 vq motor

 

The knock sensor code can be a "ghost" code that shows up with other codes. Many people (including me) have found that if you take care of the other codes, the knock sensor code goes away. I had an evap canister code and knock sensor together and replaced the evap canister and the knock sensor disappeared. But there are no guarantees about this.

 

Buy a knock sensor off ebay new and put that in...then if no change occurs id replace the map solenoid as you metion cause tht plays a good part in air to fuel ratio

 

Wire in a resistor within the FSM spec into the KS plug, clear the code, see if it comes back.

 

Doesn't running a resistor at the knock sensor cause a risk of detonation?

 

If you're runnin 93, it shouldn't matter.

 

The timing tables for a a32 is so conservative i wouldnt worry about it. I know when using the 3.0 KS on the 3.5 it will think its detects a knock due to the thinner walls of the 3.5. Its almost imperative that you use a 470k(iirc) resistor otherwise this will keep happening. Or ground it to the battery.(which almost serves the same purpose.)

I had the same issue when i swapped. I was like WTF the 3.0 was faster till i bypassed the KS.

 

I should be good since I only run 93 octane. Thanks for the help guys, very much appreciated.

 

Hate to thread jack but i kinda have the same issue.....At first car was a "maxima" now its a "sentra w a 1.6".....same feeling of sluggishness and loss of power....ive cleaned TB and MAF, and the only code i keep throwing is the KS code P0325. Everytime i clear it the car runs like it should, after some driving it turns into a slow sack of crap again...

I know the KS throws the timing tables off to try to compensate for the "detonation" its detecting. and ive heard that heat soak can affect it????idk

Ive been running only 93 octane lately to try to prevent any detonation.
I checked continuity to the KS wire, i think it was 3.4 volts?
I checked resistance in KS and got 500k-520k ohms....i even bought a ebay KS and replaced it....same thing.

Im not really a fan of bypassing it with resistors since its there for a reason. If anyone can help id b very grateful. Thank you!

 

Check your wiring harness. Not sure if the sr20de and ga16de knock sensors are the same, but I do have a fully intact de motor at my house that and id be willing to send you the harness itself for the cost of shipping. I MAY have the knock sensor itself, but I doubt it. Ill take a look later on for you.

 

By wiring harness, I mean the knock sensor harness.

 

The use of the resistors can be only for diagnosing the issue. Often times in shop manuals and factory service manuals, you will find "replace with known good part" as a step in diagnosis. Basically, you're doing just that with the resistors, you're eliminating a possible fault for diagnosing purposes.

 

I have no idea what ur talking about....when i say it was a "maxima" i mean that it felt, powerwise, like a maxima, when i say it was a "sentra with a 1.6" im comparing its sluggishness and lack of power to a gutless sentra.....not that i jacked a sentras knock sensor and slapped it on the VQ. Thanks for ur help and sorry if ive misunderstood ur post....theres also a local pick n pull that has a few maxs and i30s i can swap harnesses and knock sensors from....