Speedometr is off? How to fix
#1
Speedometr is off? How to fix
I have a 95 maxima GLE manual and my speedo is 15 off. If goes back to zero when I turn it off, but as soon as I turn it back on it jumps back up. I have no idea how to fix it? When I brought it it had 18's on it, I thought that might be doing it, so I put stock 15's back on and it is still doing it. Any suggestions would be appreciated
#2
So when you turn the key on, it goes straight to 15 mph? Has it always been like this, or did it just start happening?
Are there aftermarket gauge faces in your cluster? Chances are, the needle wasn't correctly reinstalled when reassembled.
Are there aftermarket gauge faces in your cluster? Chances are, the needle wasn't correctly reinstalled when reassembled.
#3
I have a 95 maxima GLE manual and my speedo is 15 off. If goes back to zero when I turn it off, but as soon as I turn it back on it jumps back up. I have no idea how to fix it? When I brought it it had 18's on it, I thought that might be doing it, so I put stock 15's back on and it is still doing it. Any suggestions would be appreciated
#4
In no way trying to thread jack, but I have the same problem with my tach. Recently removed it from the cluster to do LEDs, and upon reinstall as soon as I turn the key to the ON position, the tach jumps to ~5-700 RPM No needles were removed.
#5
No, as weird as it is, everything is stock. I bought the car off someone and he mentioned that at tos but I figured just size of tires. But it goes to zero when I turn the car off and jumps right back up again. It's easy to get used to lol, but I'd like to actually hit 110, not 95. I'm thinking possibly the speed sensor. Thinking will take it off and have Autozone take a look. Any other suggestions?
#6
Nope, all gauges and everything is stock. Puzzles the he'll outta me, but it is a constant 15 and doesn't fluctuate.
#7
No, as weird as it is, everything is stock. I bought the car off someone and he mentioned that at tos but I figured just size of tires. But it goes to zero when I turn the car off and jumps right back up again. It's easy to get used to lol, but I'd like to actually hit 110, not 95. I'm thinking possibly the speed sensor. Thinking will take it off and have Autozone take a look. Any other suggestions?
Have you checked the screws in the back of the cluster, see if they've loosened up at all?
I'd probably start off with a scan tool (or at least a code reader that can do live data) to see what the ECU is seeing for a speed input. This will narrow the possibilities down quite a bit.
#8
Auto parts stores don't have any real diagnostic ability, especially with components off the car. Are you throwing any codes for the VSS?
Have you checked the screws in the back of the cluster, see if they've loosened up at all?
I'd probably start off with a scan tool (or at least a code reader that can do live data) to see what the ECU is seeing for a speed input. This will narrow the possibilities down quite a bit.
Have you checked the screws in the back of the cluster, see if they've loosened up at all?
I'd probably start off with a scan tool (or at least a code reader that can do live data) to see what the ECU is seeing for a speed input. This will narrow the possibilities down quite a bit.
#9
Well Autozone said that they could do a check on it and I'm not throwin any codes for anything. I can see if I can find a live scanner. The bolts don't matter but I'll check that too. I really believe it's electrical, but I have no idea where to begin. Since it's a 95 it's an obd1 so I don't believe it saves previous codes.
And its OBDII. Has been discussed several times. All 4th gen maxis are OBDII
#10
The machine screws dont just provide ground, they are the contact point for the gauges to the circuitry.
Sounds to me like its getting a constant voltage. Not sure what the ecm or cluster to with the signal from the hall effect sensor, but if it is converted to DC, something isn't right.
Sounds to me like its getting a constant voltage. Not sure what the ecm or cluster to with the signal from the hall effect sensor, but if it is converted to DC, something isn't right.
#11
#13
The machine screws dont just provide ground, they are the contact point for the gauges to the circuitry.
Sounds to me like its getting a constant voltage. Not sure what the ecm or cluster to with the signal from the hall effect sensor, but if it is converted to DC, something isn't right.
Sounds to me like its getting a constant voltage. Not sure what the ecm or cluster to with the signal from the hall effect sensor, but if it is converted to DC, something isn't right.
I'm not sure either, i was told but o riley's that it is most likely my speedometer, but i didnt understand how it would work perfect but be off. So then it may be a contact point on the back of the cluster or something. More things to check lol im going to figure this thing out as soon as i get out of work. I would say it was related to the 3 15's i currently have in my trunk, but it was like this when i bought it.
#14
I'm not sure either, i was told but o riley's that it is most likely my speedometer, but i didnt understand how it would work perfect but be off. So then it may be a contact point on the back of the cluster or something. More things to check lol im going to figure this thing out as soon as i get out of work. I would say it was related to the 3 15's i currently have in my trunk, but it was like this when i bought it.
Other than that, It might be a short from another live wire between the VSS and the speedo. If I'm not mistaken, the speedo is based off an electrical current coming from the VSS, and if the wire was touching another live wire with low voltage, it might always make it sit at the 15 mph.
#15
I would go to a junkyard and pick up another speedo, or get one off ebay. I've seen them for $30 on there. It would mess up the mileage on the car reports and title, but it's not that hard to change out, and it might be an easy fix.
Other than that, It might be a short from another live wire between the VSS and the speedo. If I'm not mistaken, the speedo is based off an electrical current coming from the VSS, and if the wire was touching another live wire with low voltage, it might always make it sit at the 15 mph.
Other than that, It might be a short from another live wire between the VSS and the speedo. If I'm not mistaken, the speedo is based off an electrical current coming from the VSS, and if the wire was touching another live wire with low voltage, it might always make it sit at the 15 mph.
makes sense ill take a look and i can test the wires with a volt meter, shouldn't be too hard. so there is no way to adjust miles on the speedo if i get a diff one?
#19
nope no emissions for me my exhaust has like 10 holes in it lol it wouldnt pass anywhere mine only has 123,XXX on it lol it sat for about 7 years until 2008 when some guy bought it then i bought it off him lol
#20
Here is a vid of my speedo im gonna do an ecu scan on it this weekend( as soon as i find somewhere that will do live scanning too)
http://i1232.photobucket.com/albums/ff371/closetcanibal/ab7b6c59.mp4
http://i1232.photobucket.com/albums/ff371/closetcanibal/ab7b6c59.mp4
#23
yeah thats what i was thinking, it has to be electrical so im gonna check with a live scan from my OBD and see if i cant catch my ecu mis-reading or some BS. I acnt figure it out lol. prolly gonna check my speed sensor while im there.
#25
Well, in a huuuuge stretch, You could leave a deposit with me, I'll ship my cluster out to you to try out. If you keep the cluster, I keep your deposit. If you ship my cluster back to me, You'll get your deposit back, less fees.
Dr J
Dr J
#26
#27
See my car has been sitting for nearly 2 hours now and the needle is fully at 0 now
http://i1232.photobucket.com/albums/...l/2a9ba459.jpg
http://i1232.photobucket.com/albums/...l/2a9ba459.jpg
#28
http://i1232.photobucket.com/albums/ff371/closetcanibal/844892b3.mp4
#30
Don't worry about those sensor thing at the beginning, not related and no biggie.
P1400 and P0433, neither related to speed sensor or the speedometer, but worth looking into.
This's really weird. Let's google some other stuff. brb
Dr J
P1400 and P0433, neither related to speed sensor or the speedometer, but worth looking into.
This's really weird. Let's google some other stuff. brb
Dr J
#31
Back. Well, good and bad news. Good news, there's a TSB about your codes. Bad news, you gotta do just 1 more step for confirmation of diagnosis. PM me your email address, I'll send some pdf's to you. I think it's best you run a continuity check for the speedometer. I don't have the FSM so can't help you there. Ask someone else for those.
Dr J
Dr J
Last edited by ThurzNite; 09-17-2011 at 11:07 PM.
#32
TESTING
Fig. 1: Spin the speed sensor by hand while measuring the voltage
Remove the sensor from the transaxle housing.
Connect a voltmeter to the terminals on the sensor.
Spin the gear on the sensor quickly by hand while noting the voltage. The sensor should produce approximately 0.5 volts of alternating current (AC).
If the sensor does not perform as described, it should be considered faulty.
Fig. 1: Spin the speed sensor by hand while measuring the voltage
Remove the sensor from the transaxle housing.
Connect a voltmeter to the terminals on the sensor.
Spin the gear on the sensor quickly by hand while noting the voltage. The sensor should produce approximately 0.5 volts of alternating current (AC).
If the sensor does not perform as described, it should be considered faulty.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Unplug the sensor harness connector.
Unscrew the retaining bolt and pull the sensor out of the transaxle housing.
To install:
Inspect the O-ring on the sensor; replace it if necessary.
Install the sensor into the transaxle housing. Be careful the O-ring doesn't dislodge from the sensor.
Plug in the connector.
Unplug the sensor harness connector.
Unscrew the retaining bolt and pull the sensor out of the transaxle housing.
To install:
Inspect the O-ring on the sensor; replace it if necessary.
Install the sensor into the transaxle housing. Be careful the O-ring doesn't dislodge from the sensor.
Plug in the connector.
#33
And that should take about 15 mins to pull out and about 30 mins to put back in lol...i also have to check my speedometer this weekend as well. I notice when im driving over bumpy roads(backroads in iowa blow), my cluster rattles and if i put my hand on it then it then it stops? curious. how long you think it will take to pull my cluster and check screw continuity and grounding?
#35
And that should take about 15 mins to pull out and about 30 mins to put back in lol...i also have to check my speedometer this weekend as well. I notice when im driving over bumpy roads(backroads in iowa blow), my cluster rattles and if i put my hand on it then it then it stops? curious. how long you think it will take to pull my cluster and check screw continuity and grounding?
Look under the cluster shroud, you'll find 2 more screws. Pull the shroud out. Unhook electrical harnesses to any switches still attached to the shroud. Pulling the lower portion of the shroud out was scary, I thought I was gonna break it. Just take your time.
Then remove the 2 (or was it 4?) 10mm bolts holding the cluster in place. When you take the cluster out, be careful of the delicate ribbon wiring attached to the back of the cluster.
On the back of the cluster are a bunch of little screws. I loosened mine, then tightened them again. Also clean the ribbon contact surfaces with dielectric cleaner.
http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CIsBEPMCMAA
I got your email, but I think I deleted the tsb pdf. Lemme rummage through my recycle bin. BRB.
Dr J
#36
I just pulled mine out this weekend, literally took a few minutes. Get yourself a philips screwdriver. Under the steering wheel, there are 4 or 5 screws. Then pop the plastic top off the steering column (you can leave the bottom hanging). You'll need to put the steering column in the lowest position.
Look under the cluster shroud, you'll find 2 more screws. Pull the shroud out. Unhook electrical harnesses to any switches still attached to the shroud. Pulling the lower portion of the shroud out was scary, I thought I was gonna break it. Just take your time.
Then remove the 2 (or was it 4?) 10mm bolts holding the cluster in place. When you take the cluster out, be careful of the delicate ribbon wiring attached to the back of the cluster.
On the back of the cluster are a bunch of little screws. I loosened mine, then tightened them again. Also clean the ribbon contact surfaces with dielectric cleaner.
http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CIsBEPMCMAA
I got your email, but I think I deleted the tsb pdf. Lemme rummage through my recycle bin. BRB.
Dr J
Look under the cluster shroud, you'll find 2 more screws. Pull the shroud out. Unhook electrical harnesses to any switches still attached to the shroud. Pulling the lower portion of the shroud out was scary, I thought I was gonna break it. Just take your time.
Then remove the 2 (or was it 4?) 10mm bolts holding the cluster in place. When you take the cluster out, be careful of the delicate ribbon wiring attached to the back of the cluster.
On the back of the cluster are a bunch of little screws. I loosened mine, then tightened them again. Also clean the ribbon contact surfaces with dielectric cleaner.
http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CIsBEPMCMAA
I got your email, but I think I deleted the tsb pdf. Lemme rummage through my recycle bin. BRB.
Dr J
#37
You need to replace you vss sensor...my 95 gxe was doin the same thing...needle was jumping around frequently too though, replaced the vss 30 bucks new at parts store...and 15 minutes of time....and BAM speedo worked great after that....too bad i dont even drive the car anymore LOL
#39
You need to replace you vss sensor...my 95 gxe was doin the same thing...needle was jumping around frequently too though, replaced the vss 30 bucks new at parts store...and 15 minutes of time....and BAM speedo worked great after that....too bad i dont even drive the car anymore LOL
lol im hoping it is just a loose screw in my cluster, but wont find out till this weekend. Im nervous to screw with it cause i dont want it off anymore then it is already lol so im gonna multimeter test my VSS first then check cluster if that doesnt fix it. I still cant find dielectric cleaner i even called a speciality store since it is mostly used for like cleaning electric points and stuff and they thought i was retarded or something lol
#40