college student at it again...knock sensor!
#1
college student at it again...knock sensor!
So in the past month, I've had to do:
valve cover gasket replacements (oil leaking really bad)- ~$370
radiator hose behind the engine blew, needed to replace - ~ $120
And now my gracious car (97GXE w/ 155k miles) has graced me with another repair....got a "service engine soon" light while I was on the highway 2 days ago.
Took it into my trusted shop today, they said it came back as a knock sensor.
Now, if I recall from seeing random threads around here, doesn't this gen Max give out faulty knock sensor codes sometimes? Or am I just imagining this?
Do I REALLY need to replace this ASAP? The shop quoted me 400 something for it....seems a little high; I'm assuming its cause they gotta get into the engine, not sure though, but this is the cheapest shop I've found in the vicinity, and I trust them.
Looking for any advice...please share
valve cover gasket replacements (oil leaking really bad)- ~$370
radiator hose behind the engine blew, needed to replace - ~ $120
And now my gracious car (97GXE w/ 155k miles) has graced me with another repair....got a "service engine soon" light while I was on the highway 2 days ago.
Took it into my trusted shop today, they said it came back as a knock sensor.
Now, if I recall from seeing random threads around here, doesn't this gen Max give out faulty knock sensor codes sometimes? Or am I just imagining this?
Do I REALLY need to replace this ASAP? The shop quoted me 400 something for it....seems a little high; I'm assuming its cause they gotta get into the engine, not sure though, but this is the cheapest shop I've found in the vicinity, and I trust them.
Looking for any advice...please share
#2
You're gonna lose performance and MPG but a bad KS won't cause more damage than that.
That price is for the labor (they'll probably take of the IM and all that to get to it) plus the OEM part isn't cheap. If you wanna save some money, either get the KS off eBay and have the shop do it, DIY or throw a resistor in the harness (only if you always always always run premium).
That price is for the labor (they'll probably take of the IM and all that to get to it) plus the OEM part isn't cheap. If you wanna save some money, either get the KS off eBay and have the shop do it, DIY or throw a resistor in the harness (only if you always always always run premium).
#3
$400 for a Knock sensor repair?! I do so much of my own work I forget how stupid expensive it is to have work done to a car. The sensor is about $20-50 on ebay and it's rather simple to put in if you have a set of socket tools and about 2 hours of time. I'm not a college student but I work 60+ hours 6 days a week and still find time to do a lot of work on my car.
I just did my Valve cover gaskets a couple weeks ago. 5 hours of work (including some custom painting) - $70 (including paint)
Radiator hose couldn't be more then $50 with maybe an hour of work
I just did my Valve cover gaskets a couple weeks ago. 5 hours of work (including some custom painting) - $70 (including paint)
Radiator hose couldn't be more then $50 with maybe an hour of work
Last edited by infinimax96; 10-19-2011 at 01:52 PM.
#4
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
The KS will not set a check engine light, there must be another code stored.
Is the light off now or is it still on? Have the codes read again if the light is on and post them on here. $400 for a KS replacement is crazy, it's a 20 min. job with the right tools.
It is possible that another emission related code can also set the KS code without the KS actually being bad. The KS should be the last item replaced after addressing other stored error codes.
Is the light off now or is it still on? Have the codes read again if the light is on and post them on here. $400 for a KS replacement is crazy, it's a 20 min. job with the right tools.
It is possible that another emission related code can also set the KS code without the KS actually being bad. The KS should be the last item replaced after addressing other stored error codes.
#5
I'm having the same problem, I got the codes checked at Auto Zone, and they told me it was a Knock Sensor code and a EGR Valve code.
Not trying to hijack thread here, but I've read around and everyone says that the Knock Sensor shouldn't be setting off any CEL and another part in the emission system may be doing it.
I'm guessing my EGR valve is messing with the codes, and if anyone can help me out with the EGR valve, I'm not sure where to start on that.
Not trying to hijack thread here, but I've read around and everyone says that the Knock Sensor shouldn't be setting off any CEL and another part in the emission system may be doing it.
I'm guessing my EGR valve is messing with the codes, and if anyone can help me out with the EGR valve, I'm not sure where to start on that.
#7
So in the past month, I've had to do:
valve cover gasket replacements (oil leaking really bad)- ~$370
radiator hose behind the engine blew, needed to replace - ~ $120
And now my gracious car (97GXE w/ 155k miles) has graced me with another repair....got a "service engine soon" light while I was on the highway 2 days ago.
Took it into my trusted shop today, they said it came back as a knock sensor.
Now, if I recall from seeing random threads around here, doesn't this gen Max give out faulty knock sensor codes sometimes? Or am I just imagining this?
Do I REALLY need to replace this ASAP? The shop quoted me 400 something for it....seems a little high; I'm assuming its cause they gotta get into the engine, not sure though, but this is the cheapest shop I've found in the vicinity, and I trust them.
Looking for any advice...please share
valve cover gasket replacements (oil leaking really bad)- ~$370
radiator hose behind the engine blew, needed to replace - ~ $120
And now my gracious car (97GXE w/ 155k miles) has graced me with another repair....got a "service engine soon" light while I was on the highway 2 days ago.
Took it into my trusted shop today, they said it came back as a knock sensor.
Now, if I recall from seeing random threads around here, doesn't this gen Max give out faulty knock sensor codes sometimes? Or am I just imagining this?
Do I REALLY need to replace this ASAP? The shop quoted me 400 something for it....seems a little high; I'm assuming its cause they gotta get into the engine, not sure though, but this is the cheapest shop I've found in the vicinity, and I trust them.
Looking for any advice...please share
I'm having the same problem, I got the codes checked at Auto Zone, and they told me it was a Knock Sensor code and a EGR Valve code.
Not trying to hijack thread here, but I've read around and everyone says that the Knock Sensor shouldn't be setting off any CEL and another part in the emission system may be doing it.
I'm guessing my EGR valve is messing with the codes, and if anyone can help me out with the EGR valve, I'm not sure where to start on that.
Not trying to hijack thread here, but I've read around and everyone says that the Knock Sensor shouldn't be setting off any CEL and another part in the emission system may be doing it.
I'm guessing my EGR valve is messing with the codes, and if anyone can help me out with the EGR valve, I'm not sure where to start on that.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fPIMOIwLISc
#9
The knock sensor is in a really hard to reach place, just did one on a 97 Altima and it was a *****. I couldn't get to it, so I just broke the harness off of the old one, hooked it up to the new one and mounted it tightly to the side of the firewall. Works great. I got quotes for 350-450. If you look from the bottom of the engine, you could see the damn sensor, but to get to it is a mission on it's own. It won't affect the engine from all of the reading i did. But like others said, it could be something else that's throwing that code too.
#10
i got an oem knock sensor like 3 years ago off ebay for 60.00 and my mechanic at the time put it on for 80.00 which was'nt even an hours labor. looky here, first time looking and i found an oem for cheap. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Niss...item2c5d6ca7d9
#12
Quick ez fix
You can replace the knock sensor yourself. Pay like $30 for the sensor unplug the pig tail located in between the two valve covers and get a similar bolt to bolt it a spot on the intake manifold. There is a right up on this it cheap and worth as long as your not severely modding your car and not running crappy gas. I did and have 0 problems from it.
#16
i got an oem knock sensor like 3 years ago off ebay for 60.00 and my mechanic at the time put it on for 80.00 which was'nt even an hours labor. looky here, first time looking and i found an oem for cheap. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Niss...item2c5d6ca7d9
The stealerships charge over $200 for this part. Autozone charges around $130. eBay - $43 and a genuine Nissan part to boot! And yes, the dealerships charge over 4 hours labor to fit this part, even though we all know they only need about 40 minutes tops.
#17
to far for me to help you... but go in ebay for the sensor and then find someone on here to help you or go on youtube. theres a video on there how to do it. Its easy as hell after youve done it once or twice and you have the right tools.. the first time is gonna be a little tough, but thats with anything and its mainly getting the screw back in. took me an hour my first time.Now i can bang one out i like 30 mins.
#18
You can replace the knock sensor yourself. Pay like $30 for the sensor unplug the pig tail located in between the two valve covers and get a similar bolt to bolt it a spot on the intake manifold. There is a right up on this it cheap and worth as long as your not severely modding your car and not running crappy gas. I did and have 0 problems from it.
#19
#20
So in the past month, I've had to do:
valve cover gasket replacements (oil leaking really bad)- ~$370
radiator hose behind the engine blew, needed to replace - ~ $120
And now my gracious car (97GXE w/ 155k miles) has graced me with another repair....got a "service engine soon" light while I was on the highway 2 days ago.
Took it into my trusted shop today, they said it came back as a knock sensor.
Now, if I recall from seeing random threads around here, doesn't this gen Max give out faulty knock sensor codes sometimes? Or am I just imagining this?
Do I REALLY need to replace this ASAP? The shop quoted me 400 something for it....seems a little high; I'm assuming its cause they gotta get into the engine, not sure though, but this is the cheapest shop I've found in the vicinity, and I trust them.
Looking for any advice...please share
valve cover gasket replacements (oil leaking really bad)- ~$370
radiator hose behind the engine blew, needed to replace - ~ $120
And now my gracious car (97GXE w/ 155k miles) has graced me with another repair....got a "service engine soon" light while I was on the highway 2 days ago.
Took it into my trusted shop today, they said it came back as a knock sensor.
Now, if I recall from seeing random threads around here, doesn't this gen Max give out faulty knock sensor codes sometimes? Or am I just imagining this?
Do I REALLY need to replace this ASAP? The shop quoted me 400 something for it....seems a little high; I'm assuming its cause they gotta get into the engine, not sure though, but this is the cheapest shop I've found in the vicinity, and I trust them.
Looking for any advice...please share
do a SEARCH for the Knock sensor how to. Replace it urself the org way.
#21
Sorry man, I'm in college. Living in an apartment....I've got no tools, 5 classes, 2 jobs, and 10 hours a week of powerlifting training i literally have no time lol.
I called them back today; they said there were no other stored codes. Just the knock sensor. said $470 because they have to take off the intake manifold. I would get a 10% discount on the price because I'm a local college student.
I'm debating just not fixing it for the moment. Michigan is one of the few states with no mandated emission/inspection tests. I'm assuming they can reset the light so it doesn't turn on anymore?
I called them back today; they said there were no other stored codes. Just the knock sensor. said $470 because they have to take off the intake manifold. I would get a 10% discount on the price because I'm a local college student.
I'm debating just not fixing it for the moment. Michigan is one of the few states with no mandated emission/inspection tests. I'm assuming they can reset the light so it doesn't turn on anymore?
#22
Sorry man, I'm in college. Living in an apartment....I've got no tools, 5 classes, 2 jobs, and 10 hours a week of powerlifting training i literally have no time lol.
I called them back today; they said there were no other stored codes. Just the knock sensor. said $470 because they have to take off the intake manifold. I would get a 10% discount on the price because I'm a local college student.
I'm debating just not fixing it for the moment. Michigan is one of the few states with no mandated emission/inspection tests. I'm assuming they can reset the light so it doesn't turn on anymore?
I called them back today; they said there were no other stored codes. Just the knock sensor. said $470 because they have to take off the intake manifold. I would get a 10% discount on the price because I'm a local college student.
I'm debating just not fixing it for the moment. Michigan is one of the few states with no mandated emission/inspection tests. I'm assuming they can reset the light so it doesn't turn on anymore?
Fix the other problem first as the KS code could be set off due to other issues and your KS isn't necessarily bad.
#23
Look in the stickies for the how to on checking the code yourself using a flat head screw driver and the diagnostics screw on your ECU. You have to have another code on there in order for the CEL to come on. Its not possible for it just to be the KS code.
Fix the other problem first as the KS code could be set off due to other issues and your KS isn't necessarily bad.
Fix the other problem first as the KS code could be set off due to other issues and your KS isn't necessarily bad.
KS will not cause CEL to illuminate. use the screwdriver method to read codes.
I understand not having time because u in college. But if this car is your only mode of transportation, it is in your best interest to keep it running in good condition.
That being sd, the KS is not something u need to fix immediately. EGR, EVAP, KS, will not cause any sort of drivability issues. Fix it when u get to it.
400 for the shop to replace the KS is about right. THe proper way to replace the KS is to remove the intake manifold. However, the org devised a more cost effective approach to replace the KS that does not involve removing the intake. There are threads on this exact method. jus look in the how tos.
#24
You can replace the knock sensor yourself. Pay like $30 for the sensor unplug the pig tail located in between the two valve covers and get a similar bolt to bolt it a spot on the intake manifold. There is a right up on this it cheap and worth as long as your not severely modding your car and not running crappy gas. I did and have 0 problems from it.
Resistor = $0.15
KS that doesnt do **** on the fire wall = $15-$200
#25
$400? LOL dude do it yourself like most of us said. Its a pain but its worth saving the money. I got mines off ebay, good luck sir
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B7BGVwFD8AI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B7BGVwFD8AI
#26
Really is simple if you happen to not have large hands. I've written in depth about it on another thread. Anyways, anyone in the NJ area needs KS replaced, I can do it for $80 labor with out taking intake manifold off
#27
#28
I decided to say screw it and not replace the knock sensor. I drive this car, at most, two days a week and for less than 15 miles total. The main reason I'm delaying this is that the money would be better spent at the moment on other things....my rear 2 tires are almost bald, and my front two are headed there, so I'll need around 370-400 to replace all four/valve stems, etc.
#29
I decided to say screw it and not replace the knock sensor. I drive this car, at most, two days a week and for less than 15 miles total. The main reason I'm delaying this is that the money would be better spent at the moment on other things....my rear 2 tires are almost bald, and my front two are headed there, so I'll need around 370-400 to replace all four/valve stems, etc.
#30
If you change it you are gonna need a pair of small hands, like a 5 year old hand type of small. You will feel a BIG difference in performance. After you install it, reset your computer with a OBD II Diagnostic Tool.
#31
I used to think it was no big deal to have the ks code all the time. I mean, it ran ok didn't it?
So I finally bought one on EBay for about $25 and the one that came out ... it was totally destroyed. Cost me $65 to have it replaced.
But the result! The most noticeable thing is the petrol consumption is fantastically better. It hardly uses any now, compared with before. And it has loads more power available at W.O.T. Quite an amazing difference for such a small item.
So I finally bought one on EBay for about $25 and the one that came out ... it was totally destroyed. Cost me $65 to have it replaced.
But the result! The most noticeable thing is the petrol consumption is fantastically better. It hardly uses any now, compared with before. And it has loads more power available at W.O.T. Quite an amazing difference for such a small item.
#32
I used to think it was no big deal to have the ks code all the time. I mean, it ran ok didn't it?
So I finally bought one on EBay for about $25 and the one that came out ... it was totally destroyed. Cost me $65 to have it replaced.
But the result! The most noticeable thing is the petrol consumption is fantastically better. It hardly uses any now, compared with before. And it has loads more power available at W.O.T. Quite an amazing difference for such a small item.
So I finally bought one on EBay for about $25 and the one that came out ... it was totally destroyed. Cost me $65 to have it replaced.
But the result! The most noticeable thing is the petrol consumption is fantastically better. It hardly uses any now, compared with before. And it has loads more power available at W.O.T. Quite an amazing difference for such a small item.
This was the final code on my SE too. It's a nice feeling having a 13 year old car that is mechanically sound.
#35
OK so I ordered a $90 KS online (mine has a 1yr warranty vs 30 days for the cheaper ones). As a noob under the hood (couple little repairs), I watched the videos online, and tried to put this little thing on myself tonight with a 12 mm wrench and a screw driver for leverage, and all I can say is that my hands are scratched pretty good and I could barely get the wrench a half turn in about 30 minutes trying.
Is it going to make a big difference if I buy a swivel head wrench for this job? Maybe I should just ask my mechanic to do it!
For those that have done it, did you take anything else out to clear the way?
Is it going to make a big difference if I buy a swivel head wrench for this job? Maybe I should just ask my mechanic to do it!
For those that have done it, did you take anything else out to clear the way?
#36
the shop i went to when mine went out the guy was a buddy so he cut some of the price is was only 240 for me, but he told me parts and labor its about 400. the part was only $20. try it yourself. its pretty simple if you can remember where stuff goes.
#37
OK so I ordered a $90 KS online (mine has a 1yr warranty vs 30 days for the cheaper ones). As a noob under the hood (couple little repairs), I watched the videos online, and tried to put this little thing on myself tonight with a 12 mm wrench and a screw driver for leverage, and all I can say is that my hands are scratched pretty good and I could barely get the wrench a half turn in about 30 minutes trying.
Is it going to make a big difference if I buy a swivel head wrench for this job? Maybe I should just ask my mechanic to do it!
For those that have done it, did you take anything else out to clear the way?
Is it going to make a big difference if I buy a swivel head wrench for this job? Maybe I should just ask my mechanic to do it!
For those that have done it, did you take anything else out to clear the way?
Swivel, 12 inch extension, magnetic extension bit and torque wrench are a must for this job! As I recall it was 30ft/lb torque when tightening the ks bolt. I did mine and it took about 30 minutes. Total cost = $43.
#39
Finally got it done! Roughed up my hand but finally managed to get the new knock sensor on there. I think it took me an hour and a half.
Putting the new one on, I used masking tape to hold the bolt on there as I started screwing it in. I was starting to really lose it with frustration not being able to get it in there.
I also wanted to change the harness for the damn thing but could not get the old one off. I guess I'm stuck with the new one without putting it in, because I don't think I want to go through with taking the new knock sensor off again to try to put the harness in. That was a b****. Glad to get it done though!
Thanks for everyone for your help!
Putting the new one on, I used masking tape to hold the bolt on there as I started screwing it in. I was starting to really lose it with frustration not being able to get it in there.
I also wanted to change the harness for the damn thing but could not get the old one off. I guess I'm stuck with the new one without putting it in, because I don't think I want to go through with taking the new knock sensor off again to try to put the harness in. That was a b****. Glad to get it done though!
Thanks for everyone for your help!
#40
Finally got it done! Roughed up my hand but finally managed to get the new knock sensor on there. I think it took me an hour and a half.
Putting the new one on, I used masking tape to hold the bolt on there as I started screwing it in. I was starting to really lose it with frustration not being able to get it in there.
I also wanted to change the harness for the damn thing but could not get the old one off. I guess I'm stuck with the new one without putting it in, because I don't think I want to go through with taking the new knock sensor off again to try to put the harness in. That was a b****. Glad to get it done though!
Thanks for everyone for your help!
Putting the new one on, I used masking tape to hold the bolt on there as I started screwing it in. I was starting to really lose it with frustration not being able to get it in there.
I also wanted to change the harness for the damn thing but could not get the old one off. I guess I'm stuck with the new one without putting it in, because I don't think I want to go through with taking the new knock sensor off again to try to put the harness in. That was a b****. Glad to get it done though!
Thanks for everyone for your help!