whenever the car is not driven for a few days. the rear brake, not sure if it is one or both, frozen for maybe 15 seconds while the a/t car is in gear. is that the entire caliper need to be replace or there is something simpler to deal with? thanks.

 

rears are common for failing. Ive replaced both with units from advance auto and they work fine. Remembe when changing, the rears DONT push in, they turn

 

Just upgrade on be done with it

 

I had to replaced both of my rear calipers as well due to being seized. Get it from advanceauto and use coupon code ES123 or BIG30 to get big discounts.

 

Before you buy calipers, check the ebrake cables and sliders. It would suck to find out the calipers were fine, and that new calipers didn't fix the problem.

 

isn't the ebrake cable is just a cable that runs to the rear brake? what is the common problem to cause brake seized from a cable?

what is a ebrake slider?

 

and which brand did you folks buy from AdvanceAuto?

 

+1 same here. Except mine was due to the car sitting for 7 months before I bought it... Uncovered and within a few miles of the ocean.

 

Good point. The sliding pins on the bracket may be seized as well. Good to check those too. And check the e-brake shoes as well. It may be binding!

 

The rear pistons can be applied via the parking brake handle, or hydraulically. The parking brake cable can stick and not release the tension on the break.

The sliders are also referred to as pins, they allow the caliper to float laterally to allow the outer pad to be pulled into the rotor. If the pins stick, the outer pad will drag eccessively for a bit.

Dont use the parking brake for the next couple of days, to eliminate the possibility. Remove the caliper and check the pins for smooth movement.

If it only happens the first time you drive, and not after subsequent applications of the brake pedal, than it is not the piston, and likley not the sliders. I'm betting its the parking brake cable.

 

since mine is automatic transmission, i don't use the ebrake then we can rule out the cable and the slider?

the seize happens only when i don't drive for like a week. it's fine if i drive the car everyday.

 

This is the worst. We all experienced something with the rear brakes lol

 

So is it locked up to the point of the car not moving for about 15 seconds? It could be a (semi) metallic prake pad bonding (rust) to the rotor. Ive seen that happen to a lesser extent than your issue.
The sliders arent just for the parking brake, they constantly move with any lateral runout from the rotor, and anytime you step on the brake.

 

yes, after at parked for a few days. when shift gear in reverse (automatic tranny) and the car does not move for 15 seconds i could be longer. actually if i don't gas on the car it won't move.

 

For a low cost attempted fix, replace pads with cheap organic pads, and lube the sliders. My car did the same thing, except with a manual trans it broke free pretty easy. Hasn't happened since I replaced my pads.

 

You can find out which rear brake is giving you trouble by touching the rims after you have driven for a bit. The sticking caliper will have the warmer rim. Of course if both rims are warm then you either have 2 bad calipers or e-brake issues as mentioned above.

DW

 

thanks folks.

 

+ 1 on that, my brakes would stick and the rim would be really hot. I replaced the caliper and it hasn't reoccurred. I think my problem is due to wet weather rusting out the pins after awhile, plus they use this annoying brine on the roads in the winter that does damage much like good old road salt. She's off the road in the winter now, and I might be selling. Still a good old car.

 

one oof my break pads are getting more worn then other, could it be the callipers

 

Stuck pins (also called sliders). Clean and regrease.

 

Since I have changed both the calipers and the e-brake cable, I will give you some of the thoughts that I have:

1. Lift the rear end of the car. You can do one wheel at a time. Pull the e-brake, wait for about 30 seconds and release it. Now go to the rear wheel and turn it hard with your hands. If it turns free and makes about 2 revolutions your e-brake cable + mechanism is good. If it stops after about 1 revolution it is not a good sign. Now the not turning for about 2 revolutions might be because of a bad caliper as well. So to fully verify that it is or not your e-brake cable, disconnect the cable by removing the bolt where it attaches to the caliper and try again. Push back on the lever/spring to make sure that it is retracted all the way.

2. The calipers - check and clean the pins. Don't put too much grease in the holes because the grease will prevent the pins from sliding all the way. If they are good, then the next thing is to check the caliper piston. With a flat screw driver pry a little bit the rubber boot on the piston and look inside. If you see rusty spots on the piston, it is gone my friend. You can diagnose bad piston also by trying to retract it by turning it. If it turns really hard to almost impossible - it is gone.