ok ive searched all ive found is how to repair the lines my lines look fine they are all there i took the rear pillars off and noticed there is some sort of part that connects the electrical on the glass on the drivers side not on the passenger side my question is could this little part Bad? (its a black square part with im guessing + - wire connections)

my problem is i push the button for defrost it lights up but nothing happens anywere ..something tells me if it were one of the lines only that line wouldnt work not the whole thing

anyone have any helpful info ?

 

+1 on the info above i found a deicer in the fusebox under the hood but didnt have both connectors so at a loss 12 volts at the connector as well

 

ive checked the fuses there fine i havent checked the defogger relay i wouldnt know how to tell if its ok or not i have an ohm meter im gonna pick up a test light tomorrowq just to check the strips but they all look fine a few dull spots but no seperations ......its cold here it sucks scraping everyday



if the light on my dash lights up for the defroster i dont think it would be the relay mabey the on in the rear window driverside

 

upon further review there is a relay in the r defoger but it doesnt look like its the rite one? it seams a bit too tall and doesnt snap in hmmmmm

were to buy an oem relay

 

Do some testing before you start to part swap!! Since you have an ohm meter, check to see if you have continuity thru the wires in the rear window. There are places where a single break will kill the whole array. Once you get your test light, see if you have 12 volts at the connection at the window when you turn the switch on. If you do, that tells you that the rest of the circuit (fuse, switch, relay, etc) is OK. Let us know what you find.

 

ok i got a test light that tests for continuity with power off for some reason it only light up around the edges nothing in the middle that cant be good.. what do i do im thinking the whole grid is toast i have power to the window and switch ....

the grid looks good some spots that are transparent looking

this is driving me nuts ..!! i dont want to do a full replacement i want to keep it OEM

 

I'm confused about your testing.
First, unplug the connection to the window array - there should be one wire. Perform the following test between the harness plug and ground. Test for 12V at the plug on the wiring harness; verify that you have 12V when the switch is on and do not have 12V when the switch is off. If this is true, then your switch, fuses, relay and wiring up to the plug are all OK. If not, you have to chase to find the problem with the feeder circuit. The Bosy Control Module (BCM) is involved with the feeder circuit.

Testing the window array is a little harder. First, see if you have an open (i.e infinite resistance/no continuity) between the one terminal and ground of the window array. If you do, you need to look for a break in the array before or after it splits up into the individual wires across the window. There is an excellent troubleshooting/repair section in the EL section of the FSM.