Alright guys here is a quick synopsis, Early mornings, I start the car and it revs up and then almost stalls out but doesn't. Today I started it and it did that but didn't stall. I had to unlock my glove compartment so I turned the car off again and then when I tried to start it agian it stalled out,like three times in a row. I had to give it gas to keep it going. Anybody have any Ideas at all or have seen this problem in the past? Let me know. Thanks.

 

Start with the basics

1 Replace fuel filter
2 Clean throttle body
3 Clean air filt (if you have K&N) replace if not

 

Agree I think you should replace the fuel filter and than see what happens. It could also mean dirty injectors but I don't think so. Possible bad fuel pump! Just start by doing what maximus75 said and than get back to us!

 

1) Clean your throttle body

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....light=Throttle

if that doesn't work

2) check to see that your pump is working.. make sure its quiet around you.. turn the key to on position a couple times.. listen by the back seat.. see if you can hear the pump working.. if you can't hear it.. which you should because you said it started.. but then again it could be weak..

if its working..

3) pull off your fuel filter using the instructions below.. you want to make sure gas is in the top portion hose and bottom portion hose.. that way you know that the engine is getting ***..

http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/fuelfilter.html

if it does.. you might want to go ahead and change it anyway..

so we established your TB is clean.. and your engine is getting fuel..

at this point..

4) Check your MAFS sensor.. a faulty MAFS sensor will cause your car to stall all the time.. if you have another Max same year in your area you can swap it out.. if not.. hit me up .. and i will give you the procedure.. too lazy right now to look

5) check your spark plugs..

if they are fine..

6) replace PVC valve..

if you have done all this.. still having a problem.. check the ECU for codes...

 

I am having a very similar problem with my '96 SE. It seems to only happen when the engine is cold and the temperature is < 20 F. It starts, revs up, then dies. The difference is that mine makes a fairly loud noise, almost like a belt slipping (not as high pitched), while the RPMS are dropping. If I tap the gas pedal the noise stops and it doesn't die. Sometimes it makes the noise and the RPM's fall but the engine does not die. The noise and low RPMS only last about 2-3 seconds if the car doesn't stall. Any ideas?

I will look into the other suggestions to check the fuel filter, throttle body, and the air filter, but I don't see how those items could be making any noise.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Paxton

 

weak battery or altenator?

 

I don't think so. The battery is new and it cranks the engine strong. I do not think those items would make any noise either. Thanks for the response though.

Pax

 

reason i asked is.. because mine does that.. and i think i have bent valves but i doubt you have that.. i have been noticing when i step on my brake my lights are dimming.. so i figured that.. but run down the stuff above.. see if any of that helps out..

 

If the throttle body has some buildup around the air bypass orifice(controls idle speed) it could make a noise @ a certian RPM, almost like a whistle. Mine was making a noise, only when it was cold, at 900-1000rpms. It sounded like a there was a little guy trapped under my hood screaming for help.

 

My 98 was doing that and it is the flywheel they tried to resurface it, but no dice, time for a new one,

 

I hope you are right. I cleaned the throttle body last night and there was some build up around the edges. It is cold this morning, I will let you know if it fixed my problem. I hope the fix is this easy!

Pax

 

good luck pal

 

I had similar problem that turned out to be the MAFS. Usually it trips the MIL light but in my case it did not. It is very easy to test the MAFS all you need is a voltmeter or multimeter to check the voltage while engine is off and key is at "ON" position. It should be less than 1.0 volt. With the engine idling at operating temp is should be 1.0-1.7 volts. With the engine running at ~2,500rpm it should be 1.5-2.1 volts. You should observe a linear voltage rise in response to increses in engine rpm up to about 4k. If voltage is within spec you can also check the power and ground circuits. Hope it helps.

 

It started on the first try this morning and I could tell it was idling a little faster. It still made a noise for about 1 sec. but the RPM's never fell below 1000. Time will tell if the problem is solved. Thanks for your input.
If the problem is not solved I will look at the MAFS also. Thanks again.

Pax

 

I may be a little late in this disuccion but I had this EXACT problem a few weeks ago. When I would start my car when it was cold the RPM's would jump above 1000 and then sputter down to 400 or so until it recovered. It got worse until one morning it stallned. I adjusted my idle and I havn't had the problem since. Once I unplugged the TPS sensor I wad idling at 400 instead of the 700 it should be at. Just adjust the screw and you are good to go.

 

Did your's make any unusual noise when the RPM dropped?

 

I did have a squeal about every other time but I think mine was a belt slipping because I tightened them and now its mostly gone. Besides that it just made the usual engine stumbling to stay alive sound.