tires and steering wheel shift when shifting or accelerating
11-17-2011, 02:17 PM
#1
tires and steering wheel shift when shifting or accelerating
recently I've had a problem where anytime i shift, or accelerate, or hit a pothole, my steering wheel and tires jerk in a certain direction while normally driving. Like when i shift, the tires shift causing the steering wheel to pull one way. Tires are all aired properly with a recent alignment. It also does this when being in any gear and giving it some gas or hitting bumpy roads. This has recently started happening and you have to be pretty agile when just daily driving cause its pretty hard to maintain. It does drive straight on the roads or highway until i do one of the 3 things mentioned. Any thought? been looking up here seeing control arm bushing, rack and pinion, or torn boots? Thats all i got from looking in other threads. One thing i do know is the car does have a leak in the back by the firewall to where i can hear it hitting metal but not leaking on the floor? any input would be great thanks.
11-17-2011, 02:21 PM
#2
my car does this too, and it got especially worse when i upgraded to 18s.
it was barely noticeable with the stock rims, so i just attributed it all to "torque steering." but with the 18s its way noticeable and on grooved pavement i can barely maintain control.
it was barely noticeable with the stock rims, so i just attributed it all to "torque steering." but with the 18s its way noticeable and on grooved pavement i can barely maintain control.
11-17-2011, 02:39 PM
#5
There's like 5 million things that it can be.... (And I've been through like 4 million of them 
)
The only way to narrow it down is to put the car on jack stands and to start playing with the wheels in the air, try to move it in ALL directions, shake it, seeing which way it gives.
)The only way to narrow it down is to put the car on jack stands and to start playing with the wheels in the air, try to move it in ALL directions, shake it, seeing which way it gives.
11-17-2011, 03:04 PM
#6
My car is stock height with stock 16" se wheels. It recently started hasn't been doing this for the past 2+ months I've owned it. I guess the only thing i can do is take it somewhere to get looked at
11-17-2011, 06:09 PM
#9
yeah one of my max's does this! it's completely stock. but i refuse to drive it when it does this. if i accelerate too much it will jerk back and forth in both directions. i was told it was lower control arms.... sounds too simple to me
11-17-2011, 06:22 PM
#10
That's one reason for why he was asked if it pulled while slamming on the brakes -- the front end of the control arm will try to pivot away from the center of the car under the force, causing the angle of the wheel to shift outward and cause it to pull hard (assuming the bushings are shot).
Last edited by BenL; 11-17-2011 at 06:26 PM.
11-18-2011, 05:08 AM
#11
Surprised no one has mentioned this yet. If you have never replaced your outter tie rods, do it NOW. It's an easy DIY job.
Thanks to Pmohr for creating these how-to videos;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jFXfcM325ss
DW
Thanks to Pmohr for creating these how-to videos;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jFXfcM325ss
DW
11-18-2011, 07:34 AM
#12
Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 104
had the exact same problem on my Honda Odyssey couple of years ago. I was even scared to drive it. Exactly at the moment of giving it gas and the transmission shifting, it would pull to one side (heavily) and I had to pull the steering wheel to the other to counter balance. Turned out one of the bolts on the control arm had gone completely out of the nut.
So in the case of the maxima since it is held by 6 bolts I doubt it is the bolts, but as other people mentioned it must be the bushing gone loose.
So in the case of the maxima since it is held by 6 bolts I doubt it is the bolts, but as other people mentioned it must be the bushing gone loose.
11-18-2011, 01:57 PM
#15
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Pittsboro, IN
Posts: 23
Lower control arms for sure! I had the same problem on mine when I bought it. I bought the Ebay lower control arms(new ball joints and new bushings) and now its tight as a prom date! took a couple hours on my buddys lift and with his air tools lol
11-19-2011, 05:24 PM
#19
So over the past few days its gotten worse..taking it to my mechanic Friday. Its just when any deceleration or acceleration take place it shifts/bucks big time..sometimes randomly but ill check back in once I have it checked out
11-19-2011, 08:06 PM
#20
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 64
This doesnt really help you but i test drove a 2000 Maxima last week that a guy was selling in Raleigh for $1800 because of this syndrome. I was ready to purchase it just because it was so cheap! But it was a scary ride and i didnt want any part if it....I pulled over and let him drive it back
12-02-2011, 04:21 PM
#24
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 75
I would buy the bushings you need, call around for a shop that knows what you're talking about/decent price, and go from there. It can be a PITA, but it's better than letting it get worse.
12-02-2011, 04:38 PM
#26
Winner Winner ... you buy Dinner! 
I'd say it's your rack bushings without question. I need to do mine, but at least my Max doesn't act like yours .... yet. $40 Pepboys / Oriely's
Just a thought here, got to diss on AutoZone - their parts are C R A P !!! Stay Away .... can't urge that enough. I've had SOOO many things wrong with AZ parts it's just not worth the headaches and stress anymore, so I just stay away.
I'd say it's your rack bushings without question. I need to do mine, but at least my Max doesn't act like yours .... yet. $40 Pepboys / Oriely's
Just a thought here, got to diss on AutoZone - their parts are C R A P !!! Stay Away .... can't urge that enough. I've had SOOO many things wrong with AZ parts it's just not worth the headaches and stress anymore, so I just stay away.
12-02-2011, 05:49 PM
#27
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 75
If that's the case, then stay away from Pep Boys! I was in PA for some training and one of the guys that was there w/ me took his car there for a brake job that wound up costing him $800!! I'm not saying that you'll let that happen to you, but listen to these guys & go into a shop being confident about what's wrong w/ your car. No offense intended, just my $0.02.
12-03-2011, 12:42 AM
#28
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 31
since you're having the problem with whatever part has failed whenever the load changes (forward/backward from shifting/accel/decel, up/down from potholes, etc.) i'd say look for bad bushings first - specifically the steering rack bushings that imaking and jtzmax suggested as a starting point.
as for your question about the type of shop: find a good independent repair shop and stick with them for all the work you get done. a good independent mechanic will be more knowledgeable about your car and how to properly repair it than the guys at a big box oil change/muffler/tire/etc shop or, even worse, a fraud epicenter like firestone. do some research and try to find a good local guy/shop if you won't be doing the work yourself.
as for your question about the type of shop: find a good independent repair shop and stick with them for all the work you get done. a good independent mechanic will be more knowledgeable about your car and how to properly repair it than the guys at a big box oil change/muffler/tire/etc shop or, even worse, a fraud epicenter like firestone. do some research and try to find a good local guy/shop if you won't be doing the work yourself.
12-06-2011, 03:22 PM
#30
If that's the case, then stay away from Pep Boys! I was in PA for some training and one of the guys that was there w/ me took his car there for a brake job that wound up costing him $800!! I'm not saying that you'll let that happen to you, but listen to these guys & go into a shop being confident about what's wrong w/ your car. No offense intended, just my $0.02.
Well a few years back a dealer got me for over $800 on a 97 max with hard start, and didn't fix my problem and i had to get an emission waiver. It's the service advisor and mechanic, not the shop. People are better off getting a private shop and getting to know a mechanic personally. That way you get free diagnostics and often free work done when he knows that he is the only guy working on your car. Many mechanics don't want to mess with a car that we made worse by doing a bad repair.
All of the older guys on here (i'm 31) know that on used cars the suspension is due for an overhaul. The control arms have ball joints built into them. Guarantee all the bushings are dry rotted and useless. Get new control arms, tie rods, links, struts if you need them, and alignment. Go to several shops and get quotes. Take the best. This is a 3-5 hr job for a shop. If they have worked on maximas before they could probably do it in 2 hrs. So.... 2 hr labor time plus cost of parts is all i'd be willing to pay... but I have an independent mechanic that I respect and trust.
12-08-2011, 11:41 PM
#32
since you're having the problem with whatever part has failed whenever the load changes (forward/backward from shifting/accel/decel, up/down from potholes, etc.) i'd say look for bad bushings first - specifically the steering rack bushings that imaking and jtzmax suggested as a starting point.
as for your question about the type of shop: find a good independent repair shop and stick with them for all the work you get done. a good independent mechanic will be more knowledgeable about your car and how to properly repair it than the guys at a big box oil change/muffler/tire/etc shop or, even worse, a fraud epicenter like firestone. do some research and try to find a good local guy/shop if you won't be doing the work yourself.
as for your question about the type of shop: find a good independent repair shop and stick with them for all the work you get done. a good independent mechanic will be more knowledgeable about your car and how to properly repair it than the guys at a big box oil change/muffler/tire/etc shop or, even worse, a fraud epicenter like firestone. do some research and try to find a good local guy/shop if you won't be doing the work yourself.
12-09-2011, 12:00 AM
#33
Hes right about high mileage, i would suggest poly bushings. Have em done on the entire front end of my car and it is amazing! I too suffered a similar thing on my max, it would pull to the right. Got it checked out, when the car was jacked you could shake the passenger side wheel with your hand bro, so imagine what its like to drive on. Turns out it was a COMPLETELY shot wheel bearing, the hub assembly was screwed and the axle was cooked too. Soo got all that done on.the passenger side, brand new axle, bearing and hub assembly and the car rides sooo much better. It may not be in ur case but jack up the car and grab both wheels top and bottom (12 and 6 o clock) and try to jiggle it inward and out if it moves then bad bearings. Good luck!
12-09-2011, 12:34 AM
#34
+1 for anyone that said tie rods and control arms. it's def. those things. I hated when my car did this. when your control arm is messed up it swings around allowing your steering under acceleration or changes to steering the car accordingly. like they are saying.. it's usually cheap DIY jobs. good luck!
12-13-2011, 05:41 PM
#35
Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 104
So let me see - we have been giving suggestion after suggestion to the original poster and after a month or so he has not tried to do anything yet we keep giving suggestions. Are we going to start actually bidding who the lucky winner is going to be?
Last edited by svezarov; 12-13-2011 at 05:48 PM.
12-13-2011, 09:40 PM
#36
Chill out Guy ^ anyways..schedule is to packed to get the car checked out so it just sits while the subie is my daily.. Will let you guys know..more than likely I'm going to buy this from the vendor on the site.. http://forums.maxima.org/group-deals...cp-import.html looks awesome for the price and good reviews and seems like a good place to start
12-14-2011, 02:40 AM
#37
Chill out Guy ^ anyways..schedule is to packed to get the car checked out so it just sits while the subie is my daily.. Will let you guys know..more than likely I'm going to buy this from the vendor on the site.. http://forums.maxima.org/group-deals...cp-import.html looks awesome for the price and good reviews and seems like a good place to start
DW
12-14-2011, 06:56 AM
#39