tires and steering wheel shift when shifting or accelerating
#42
#45
I have much the same problem on my 95 w/234kmi. Struts & axles were replaced at 120kmi.
So, I have on order: control arms, tie rods, complete strut assemblies. Putting on front rotors while I'm there. I've had a vibration that would not stop since day 1 and have replaced wheel bearings, tires, wheels. No matter how the wheels/tires are balanced, there's a vibration up front.
I may go ahead and put on steering gear bushings if they're worn.
So, I have on order: control arms, tie rods, complete strut assemblies. Putting on front rotors while I'm there. I've had a vibration that would not stop since day 1 and have replaced wheel bearings, tires, wheels. No matter how the wheels/tires are balanced, there's a vibration up front.
I may go ahead and put on steering gear bushings if they're worn.
#46
Not sure if this relates to some of the problems mentioned here, but I've learned to respect the rotation of tires maintenance alot more these days.
I used to have those directional tires where you could only rotate them front to back. You know, the tires with a rotation arrow on the sidewall and the V-like tread pattern. Great for high speed driving in the rain. But, even with regular rotation every 5K miles, those tires always got noisy as they got older.
My plan from now on is to get H or V rated tires which can be rotated in a criss cross pattern. Because of the criss cross rotation, the tire spends 5K miles rolling forward, then 5k miles rolling backwards. This evens out the wear way better than the above situation and keeps the tires noise and vibration free way longer too.
DW
I used to have those directional tires where you could only rotate them front to back. You know, the tires with a rotation arrow on the sidewall and the V-like tread pattern. Great for high speed driving in the rain. But, even with regular rotation every 5K miles, those tires always got noisy as they got older.
My plan from now on is to get H or V rated tires which can be rotated in a criss cross pattern. Because of the criss cross rotation, the tire spends 5K miles rolling forward, then 5k miles rolling backwards. This evens out the wear way better than the above situation and keeps the tires noise and vibration free way longer too.
DW
#48
Ok, so I'm a DA, what exactly do you mean by core support? Is that the entire front assembly? Does it have replaceable parts?
#49
THIS;
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ment-pics.html
DW
EDIT: Next thing you're probably going to look underneath your car and be like "OH SHF$#@T!"
Last edited by dwapenyi; 12-30-2011 at 04:47 AM.
#50
THIS;
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ment-pics.html
DW
EDIT: Next thing you're probably going to look underneath your car and be like "OH SHF$#@T!"
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ment-pics.html
DW
EDIT: Next thing you're probably going to look underneath your car and be like "OH SHF$#@T!"
#51
WooHoo... my struts, control arms, tie rod ends, rotors and pads are all in. Time to go to work. I'm really looking forward to the tight like a prom date!
I bought the complete strut assemblies with bearings, dampers, boots, springs and all, already assembled. I hope they're ok. Also bought the complete control arm assemblies.
Can't wait to get it all on. While I'm down there, I'll replace the front cover seal.
Wish me luck. I have been looking through the help forums for information.
I bought the complete strut assemblies with bearings, dampers, boots, springs and all, already assembled. I hope they're ok. Also bought the complete control arm assemblies.
Can't wait to get it all on. While I'm down there, I'll replace the front cover seal.
Wish me luck. I have been looking through the help forums for information.
#53
good to see another max back on the road. This was the same issue I had too, and it was my control arms. The bushing gets worn and allows for play. When you shift there is a temporary decrease in speed, that is enough to allow the control arm to shift a little bit in the bushing. Then when the engine engages in its gear, the control arm slams back into place because of forward momentum and that shifts your steering position and you get the tell tale "jerk" to the sides.
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