ncmaxvq

I have a 1997 Max and after it sits for a few hours it turns over a long time before it fires, oil light flickers then stumbles to a start...this used to just be after sitting overnight but now is becoming more frequent. I have cleaned the egr tube, IACV, TB, crank sensor, replaced starter, replaced spark plugs, replaced a bad coil, cleaned all grounds / battery terminals, and tried letting the fuel pump prime for a long time (key on, but not start) with accessories off. I know there is a million posts like this but has anyone ever found a definitive cure? seems like it would be simple fuel, air or spark......

tigersharkdude

iTrader: (20)

sounds to me like the fuel pressure regulator. Ive encountered the same problem on my 99, and 2 other 4th gens

BenL

Did you try ECTS? That's known to cause hard starts.

Only asking because you didn't mention trying that.

T_Behr904

ncmaxvq

Thanks for the info! makes sense actually because i did notice it seems to happen more when the car is low on fuel. Ill change it Wednesday if i can find one by then...ill let you guys know how it goes

ncmaxvq

Does that stand for engine coolant temp sensor? naw haven't tried that but will do after the fuel pressure regulator

ncmaxvq

I am looking at oem/aftermarket fuel pressure regulators and i really like the universal ones with a gauge plus they are cheaper. Are these a waste of money or what? Anyone running one?

tigersharkdude

iTrader: (20)

Get an OE or OE style replacement

ncmaxvq

will do

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

when's the lat time you replaced the fuel filter? if you haven't I would do that 1st before the regulator.

DW

BenL

If you haven't replaced the fuel filter in the last 20k or so miles (for cheaper filters) this could do it also.
I'd personally start with the cheaper option[s] before saying "oh it has to be this" and spending $70+ on something that may not fix (or even be) the problem when it may just be a cheap fix (fuel filter $10-$15, ECTS ~$20) -- unless you've eliminated all of the other likely possibilities first, that is. IIRC if the FPR fails it'll typically leak fuel into the vac hose attached to it.

ncmaxvq

Don't know when it has been replaced last, just bought the car...I replaced it today and so far so good. I also got a FP regulator but was unable to remove the bolts but no fuel on vacc line. If it persists ill change it. If not ill return it. ECTS is also on the to do list...

Swazey

is your car 5mt? If so, when was the last time you replaced the clutch?

ncmaxvq

The dude i bought it from said it was replaced a couple years ago...

Blakfreestyle

iTrader: (1)

Diagnostics has gotta be the hardest part of car repair. First do you have any check engine lights? Or at least use a scan tool to verify that you have no pending codes.

People want to forget that the 4th gen is getting old and many develop electrical problems in the wiring harness. Search for add'l grounding tips. The crank sensors are known to cause long starts but I would test your parts instead of throwing parts at it.

ncmaxvq

No CEL's, i own a scanner and no pending codes. I noticed in the last couple days if i cycle the ignition on 3 times (let the fuel pump prime 3 times) it starts quick/strong every time. Planning on running a ground wire to the bell housing for the hell of it tomorrow and replacing the fuel pressure regulator. I dont mind throwing parts at it...it beats wasting money at the dealer in my eyes and i enjoy working on it most of the time. New crank sensor will be next, though i believe the FPR is to blame..

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

if it's not the fpr, then maybe the fuel filter maintenance was so neglected that the fuel pump has been work much harder for a very long time. Maybe its about to go. When you prime the pump, can you hear it? If you can then I think it's just about done.

DW

ncmaxvq

I cant hear the fuel pump prime at all. Replaced the FPR and added ground to bell housing this afternoon and now it starts on 1 rotation! Problem solved!!!!!

djchan

iTrader: (2)

hey NCMAXVQ, please post how you get the FPR screws out, cuz I'm in the same boat right now. I can crank forever on the first key turn, but starts instantly on the second. How I start now is turn the key to on, then to off, then to start, and it starts everytime. Have the FPR but can't get a philips head driver in there. good luck...

tigersharkdude

iTrader: (20)

another FPR bites the dust

wirelessdude04

iTrader: (24)

Could have been the ground you added. MT cars are common to have starting problems I've had it since I've owned my car about 5 years replaced everything til last year someone said maybe the bellhousing needs to be sanded down. So I did that and starts like it's brand new.

wirelessdude04

iTrader: (24)

Sometimes you can't use a thin Phillips head it's gotta be sorta thick like the head of it. If there completely stripped they have needle nose vise grips which would work best

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Nice

DW

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

Use a vise grip to crack them free. They are corroded on there which makes them difficult to come off. Same thing happens with the fuel injector screws.

ncmaxvq

I first removed the TB and air intake, tried with several different screwdrivers but no luck there, got the top screw out with a pair of needle nose vise grips and the bottom one out with an easy-out i picked up from Autozone, picked up new bolts from the dealership, installed new FPR with oil on the o-ring and thread locker, installed TB and air intake. Took me about an hour total but man did it ever pay off!!!! problem solved!! I found out this was also the cause of my RPM's to drop real low between shifts...like below 500 dimming the headlights at night. Has a bit more power/throttle response now too. That thing was really causing hell for me. Good luck to ya bro hope you have the answer here....

ncmaxvq

Yeah this crossed my mind, but with the new power increase / throttle response and smooth idle i still blame the FPR, glad i grounded it though

djchan

iTrader: (2)

hey, thanxs for all the advice, I was trying to take off the FPR without first removing the airbox or MAF. I'll do it the right way the next time I see the car.
It's a 96 black Gle that replaced a 95 Se evergreen that I gave to my sister after the 95 got totaled. Both auto. I replaced the knock sensor last week without moving anything out of the way by squeezing my left hand in there. Anyway sis said the max's are the best cars she's ever had, after driving camry's and minivans. This forum is great! Everyone have a safe and Merry Christmas...

Swazey

if the mating surface between the tranny and bell housing was not properly cleaned then the starting system does not have proper ground. this will always be the case until you unbolt the tranny and clean the surface.

it doesn't matter how many ground wires you add. if everything else tests ok, then this is definitely your problem. i know because i have the same problem.

ncmaxvq

problem fixed....it was the fuel pressure regulator, starts like a new car now!