Doing rear brakes - tips, gotchas, what parts?
#1
Doing rear brakes - tips, gotchas, what parts?
I need to do the rear brakes on a '99 Max. The rotors are shot and the calipers are either not sliding or working right, so I am figuring I will need to either rework or replace both. 200K miles, rears have not been done in 40-50K miles I would guess.
Questions:
- Are the rear calipers usually fixable, or will I need to get replacements?
- What other small parts will I need to do this?
- What will be rusted or frozen in a car with this many miles?
- What are the gotchas that will get me and is there anything unique about doing this on the Max that I shoud know up front?
Thanks,
bob
Questions:
- Are the rear calipers usually fixable, or will I need to get replacements?
- What other small parts will I need to do this?
- What will be rusted or frozen in a car with this many miles?
- What are the gotchas that will get me and is there anything unique about doing this on the Max that I shoud know up front?
Thanks,
bob
Last edited by BobMax; 12-05-2011 at 10:46 AM.
#2
there is a small cube looking tool you gotta use for the rear caliper's piston, you gotta spin the piston clockwise using the that tool. cant jus push it or slide it in like the front ones.
i got my mine at pepboys for like 12 bucks, they could be found preety much at any autopart store.
i got my mine at pepboys for like 12 bucks, they could be found preety much at any autopart store.
#4
Well if your rotors are shot replace them and might as well replace brake pads. Sometimes the slider pins seize up which means you have to get new ones. If there good just take them out and regrease them.
As for the piston there is a lil tool mentioned cube loooking thing you need to push the piston back in. It's not always the easiest thing to do
As for the piston there is a lil tool mentioned cube loooking thing you need to push the piston back in. It's not always the easiest thing to do
#6
My old webpage still seems to be up...
Here
Be safe...
Here
Be safe...
I need to do the rear brakes on a '99 Max. The rotors are shot and the calipers are either not sliding or working right, so I am figure I will need to either rework or replace both. 200K miles, rears have not been done in 04-50K miles I would guess.
Questions:
- Are the rear calipers usually fixable, or will I need to get replacements?
- What other small parts will I need to do this?
- What will be rusted or frozen in a car with this many miles?
- What are the gotchas that will get me and is there anything unique about doing this on the Max that I shoud know up front?
Thanks,
bob
Questions:
- Are the rear calipers usually fixable, or will I need to get replacements?
- What other small parts will I need to do this?
- What will be rusted or frozen in a car with this many miles?
- What are the gotchas that will get me and is there anything unique about doing this on the Max that I shoud know up front?
Thanks,
bob
#7
Whatever you do make sure that you put the little knuckle thats on the back to the brake pad in between the groove on the caliper's piston! If you don't you will have a very annoying noise everytime you turn to the left/right depeending on what side was done incorrectly! I bought brand new struts because of this noise thinking they were bad and the whole time all I needed to do was line the lil knuckle with the groove
#8
Whatever you do make sure that you put the little knuckle thats on the back to the brake pad in between the groove on the caliper's piston! If you don't you will have a very annoying noise everytime you turn to the left/right depeending on what side was done incorrectly! I bought brand new struts because of this noise thinking they were bad and the whole time all I needed to do was line the lil knuckle with the groove
Not to mention it will be hard to put the caliper assembly back on if this isnt lined up.
#10
These rear calipers are known for seizing. I have dealt with at least 6 sets that are seized from various years. The rubber seals wear down over time allowing moisture to get in and rust forms and the pistons seize.
They are rebuildable if you can get the pistons out, might involve a torch.
They are rebuildable if you can get the pistons out, might involve a torch.
#11
Thanks guys, I'll get in there and see what's what.
Form the look of the rotors - one barely getting swept and one getting continually swept on the inside, I expect the worst from the calipers, but who knows... maybe they are just in need of a little cleaning.
Are the "pins" available from autoparts stores, or is that a dealer item? (I don't have time for order/shipping on this one... I will have to purchase locally).
Form the look of the rotors - one barely getting swept and one getting continually swept on the inside, I expect the worst from the calipers, but who knows... maybe they are just in need of a little cleaning.
Are the "pins" available from autoparts stores, or is that a dealer item? (I don't have time for order/shipping on this one... I will have to purchase locally).
#13
you can purchase the pins locally, if your up to it advanced auto will price match rockauto if you call them! this will also save you the shipping cost and you get to pick up locally!
#14
Advance Auto also carries the caliper brackets; good to remember in case you have a caliper pin frozen in the bracket (which has happened to me). You can also get rebuilt calipers from Advance - again good to remember if you have a piston that won't turn back into the caliper. I have used both with good success and at a reasonable price.
#15
Thanks boys... rears are done.
Turned out there was just one stuck pin. It was easily freed up once i had the bracket out. Everything came loose without any significant hassle. Cleaned and polished the pins along with the brackets and all the mounting hardware and reassembled with new grease, pads, and rotors.
PARTs NOTE: I needed new boots for the pins. Best price for boots only was Car Quest at $10 for all 4. (Advance was $19).
... On to the fronts in a few days.
Turned out there was just one stuck pin. It was easily freed up once i had the bracket out. Everything came loose without any significant hassle. Cleaned and polished the pins along with the brackets and all the mounting hardware and reassembled with new grease, pads, and rotors.
PARTs NOTE: I needed new boots for the pins. Best price for boots only was Car Quest at $10 for all 4. (Advance was $19).
... On to the fronts in a few days.
#16
Thanks boys... rears are done.
Turned out there was just one stuck pin. It was easily freed up once i had the bracket out. Everything came loose without any significant hassle. Cleaned and polished the pins along with the brackets and all the mounting hardware and reassembled with new grease, pads, and rotors.
PARTs NOTE: I needed new boots for the pins. Best price for boots only was Car Quest at $10 for all 4. (Advance was $19).
... On to the fronts in a few days.
Turned out there was just one stuck pin. It was easily freed up once i had the bracket out. Everything came loose without any significant hassle. Cleaned and polished the pins along with the brackets and all the mounting hardware and reassembled with new grease, pads, and rotors.
PARTs NOTE: I needed new boots for the pins. Best price for boots only was Car Quest at $10 for all 4. (Advance was $19).
... On to the fronts in a few days.
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