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CARSTALLING BOGGING OUT EVERYDAY!!2 CODES!! PLEASE HELP!

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Old Dec 7, 2011 | 08:22 PM
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CARSTALLING BOGGING OUT EVERYDAY!!2 CODES!! PLEASE HELP!

Man i havent been on here in a looooong time!.having an issue with my 96 se, tha car runs fine when its not stalling or bogging out. some times it will even shut off at idle. as im coasting it begins to misfire/bog out. it goes and comes. i pulled up an egr flow malfunction code and a bank 1 sensor 2 code. my egr has been clogged for years and never had a problem since my MEVI. just wondering if that o2 sensor would cause the stalling. my spark plugs are black due to this issue. i will replace them but need to figure this out first.
all input is well appreciated.
thanks!
Old Dec 7, 2011 | 08:31 PM
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I have has his problem too. I changed my temperature sensor and it went away for good. but yours sounds like you need new coils bad. replace the coils and the spark plugs and maybe clean your tb. I'd Jose don't work I would seriously try to et hat temp sensor replaced. it's cheap.
Old Dec 7, 2011 | 08:42 PM
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i have replaced the engine coolant temperature sensor. purchased it from nissan. the throttle body was cleaned about 40,000 miles ago while i installed my MEVI so that cant be it. i have driven the car with a bad coil before and it misfires continuously. not here and there. and it threw a code. i have no code for a coil pack. it would say cylinder # misfire. any other ideas? this is a headache lol
Old Dec 7, 2011 | 08:54 PM
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When was the last time you cleaned your IACV? A bad O2 won't do that to the car.
Old Dec 7, 2011 | 08:55 PM
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ah man I don't really know.. maybe maf? I have a 95 and my codes don't throw easily. so I just have to improvise.
Old Dec 7, 2011 | 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by mastere954
i have replaced the engine coolant temperature sensor. purchased it from nissan. the throttle body was cleaned about 40,000 miles ago while i installed my MEVI so that cant be it. i have driven the car with a bad coil before and it misfires continuously. not here and there. and it threw a code. i have no code for a coil pack. it would say cylinder # misfire. any other ideas? this is a headache lol
I've heard a dirty iacv giving a rough idle. But misfiring while driving? And complete stalling at idle?
Old Dec 7, 2011 | 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by mastere954
I've heard a dirty iacv giving a rough idle. But misfiring while driving? And complete stalling at idle?
Stalling happened to me before I cleaned mine. Misfiring might be from the black plugs.
Old Dec 7, 2011 | 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by ChrisMan287
Stalling happened to me before I cleaned mine. Misfiring might be from the black plugs.
+1
Old Dec 8, 2011 | 01:45 AM
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it's not the o2s. bad coils didn't cause any stalling for me, they made the car run rough when i gave it more than 25% throttle.

i know you said you replaced the ECTS but it could be the wiring itself that is going bad. i had random stalling issues for a couple days before finally the car started stalling ALL the time. it was the wiring to the ECTS that was bad. for a couple days there was intermittent connection, then when the wire finally broke, that was it. car would stall once it started to get warm. i'd visually check that wiring especially right there at the connector, and if that doesn't reveal anything, test it at the ECU harness.
Old Dec 8, 2011 | 04:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Nealoc187
it's not the o2s. bad coils didn't cause any stalling for me, they made the car run rough when i gave it more than 25% throttle.

i know you said you replaced the ECTS but it could be the wiring itself that is going bad. i had random stalling issues for a couple days before finally the car started stalling ALL the time. it was the wiring to the ECTS that was bad. for a couple days there was intermittent connection, then when the wire finally broke, that was it. car would stall once it started to get warm. i'd visually check that wiring especially right there at the connector, and if that doesn't reveal anything, test it at the ECU harness.
How would I go about testing or fixing the the wiring???
Old Dec 8, 2011 | 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by mastere954
How would I go about testing or fixing the the wiring???
Why not try cleaning your IACV. it takes like 30mins to do.
Old Dec 8, 2011 | 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by mastere954
How would I go about testing or fixing the the wiring???
U test to see if its getting voltage, grounded, and sending back a signal. In any of these cases, there would be code.

Clean your MAF, TB, and IACV.

Anything else should have thrown a code.
Old Dec 8, 2011 | 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by ChrisMan287
Why not try cleaning your IACV. it takes like 30mins to do.
ok i will try cleaning out the TB and IACV. any suggestions on the most effective way or prodct to use? or maybe a good method o doing so? thanks alot guys
Old Dec 8, 2011 | 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by mastere954
ok i will try cleaning out the TB and IACV. any suggestions on the most effective way or prodct to use? or maybe a good method o doing so? thanks alot guys
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...g-dummies.html

Don't worry about the MAF or EGR.
Old Dec 8, 2011 | 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ChrisMan287
Thank you!!! I will be trying this my next day off. Maybe early next week. I will check back in with updates.
Old Dec 8, 2011 | 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by mastere954
Thank you!!! I will be trying this my next day off. Maybe early next week. I will check back in with updates.
Good luck!
Old Dec 8, 2011 | 07:11 PM
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my 97 max had hard starts, rough idle, power loss and once in a blue moon stall all due to a bad fuel pressure regulator and it threw no codes at all! After $250 later throwing parts at it, it runs like new! I wish i would of started with the FPR. Some dudes one here pointed me in this direction and said it was a common problem. I was skeptical, but it turned out that was the issue
Old Dec 8, 2011 | 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by ncmaxvq
my 97 max had hard starts, rough idle, power loss and once in a blue moon stall all due to a bad fuel pressure regulator and it threw no codes at all! After $250 later throwing parts at it, it runs like new! I wish i would of started with the FPR. Some dudes one here pointed me in this direction and said it was a common problem. I was skeptical, but it turned out that was the issue
I was thinking about that too. FPR or fuel pump. When it bogs out it stinks like richness. And my plugs are black. Obviously it's dumping too much fuel. Idk if an iacv or dirty TB would cause this? I will clean them anyway. Have nothing to lose.
Old Dec 8, 2011 | 09:27 PM
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Rent a fuel pressure tester first off. Black plugs, stalling, bogging, and dying are all symptoms of being too rich. Also a broken vacuum line would look like high load (low vacuum, more fuel) to a fpr.
Old Dec 8, 2011 | 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by asand1
Rent a fuel pressure tester first off. Black plugs, stalling, bogging, and dying are all symptoms of being too rich. Also a broken vacuum line would look like high load (low vacuum, more fuel) to a fpr.
Makes sense. I'll be checking all my vacuum lines. And will look into a fuel press tester.
Old Jan 30, 2012 | 08:40 PM
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just to keep up to date, i honestly did not try any of these recommendations. i did swap out the MAF sensor with a spare one i had and it fixed the problem. so for future reference for anybody with the same symptoms, test the MAF!!! thanks for all the help
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