CARSTALLING BOGGING OUT EVERYDAY!!2 CODES!! PLEASE HELP!
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From: pembroke pines, florida
CARSTALLING BOGGING OUT EVERYDAY!!2 CODES!! PLEASE HELP!
Man i havent been on here in a looooong time!.having an issue with my 96 se, tha car runs fine when its not stalling or bogging out. some times it will even shut off at idle. as im coasting it begins to misfire/bog out. it goes and comes. i pulled up an egr flow malfunction code and a bank 1 sensor 2 code. my egr has been clogged for years and never had a problem since my MEVI. just wondering if that o2 sensor would cause the stalling. my spark plugs are black due to this issue. i will replace them but need to figure this out first.
all input is well appreciated.
thanks!
all input is well appreciated.
thanks!
I have has his problem too. I changed my temperature sensor and it went away for good. but yours sounds like you need new coils bad. replace the coils and the spark plugs and maybe clean your tb. I'd Jose don't work I would seriously try to et hat temp sensor replaced. it's cheap.
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From: pembroke pines, florida
i have replaced the engine coolant temperature sensor. purchased it from nissan. the throttle body was cleaned about 40,000 miles ago while i installed my MEVI so that cant be it. i have driven the car with a bad coil before and it misfires continuously. not here and there. and it threw a code. i have no code for a coil pack. it would say cylinder # misfire. any other ideas? this is a headache lol
Thread Starter
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From: pembroke pines, florida
i have replaced the engine coolant temperature sensor. purchased it from nissan. the throttle body was cleaned about 40,000 miles ago while i installed my MEVI so that cant be it. i have driven the car with a bad coil before and it misfires continuously. not here and there. and it threw a code. i have no code for a coil pack. it would say cylinder # misfire. any other ideas? this is a headache lol
it's not the o2s. bad coils didn't cause any stalling for me, they made the car run rough when i gave it more than 25% throttle.
i know you said you replaced the ECTS but it could be the wiring itself that is going bad. i had random stalling issues for a couple days before finally the car started stalling ALL the time. it was the wiring to the ECTS that was bad. for a couple days there was intermittent connection, then when the wire finally broke, that was it. car would stall once it started to get warm. i'd visually check that wiring especially right there at the connector, and if that doesn't reveal anything, test it at the ECU harness.
i know you said you replaced the ECTS but it could be the wiring itself that is going bad. i had random stalling issues for a couple days before finally the car started stalling ALL the time. it was the wiring to the ECTS that was bad. for a couple days there was intermittent connection, then when the wire finally broke, that was it. car would stall once it started to get warm. i'd visually check that wiring especially right there at the connector, and if that doesn't reveal anything, test it at the ECU harness.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (17)
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From: pembroke pines, florida
it's not the o2s. bad coils didn't cause any stalling for me, they made the car run rough when i gave it more than 25% throttle.
i know you said you replaced the ECTS but it could be the wiring itself that is going bad. i had random stalling issues for a couple days before finally the car started stalling ALL the time. it was the wiring to the ECTS that was bad. for a couple days there was intermittent connection, then when the wire finally broke, that was it. car would stall once it started to get warm. i'd visually check that wiring especially right there at the connector, and if that doesn't reveal anything, test it at the ECU harness.
i know you said you replaced the ECTS but it could be the wiring itself that is going bad. i had random stalling issues for a couple days before finally the car started stalling ALL the time. it was the wiring to the ECTS that was bad. for a couple days there was intermittent connection, then when the wire finally broke, that was it. car would stall once it started to get warm. i'd visually check that wiring especially right there at the connector, and if that doesn't reveal anything, test it at the ECU harness.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (17)
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 477
From: pembroke pines, florida
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (17)
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 477
From: pembroke pines, florida
my 97 max had hard starts, rough idle, power loss and once in a blue moon stall all due to a bad fuel pressure regulator and it threw no codes at all! After $250 later throwing parts at it, it runs like new! I wish i would of started with the FPR. Some dudes one here pointed me in this direction and said it was a common problem. I was skeptical, but it turned out that was the issue
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (17)
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 477
From: pembroke pines, florida
my 97 max had hard starts, rough idle, power loss and once in a blue moon stall all due to a bad fuel pressure regulator and it threw no codes at all! After $250 later throwing parts at it, it runs like new! I wish i would of started with the FPR. Some dudes one here pointed me in this direction and said it was a common problem. I was skeptical, but it turned out that was the issue
Rent a fuel pressure tester first off. Black plugs, stalling, bogging, and dying are all symptoms of being too rich. Also a broken vacuum line would look like high load (low vacuum, more fuel) to a fpr.
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From: pembroke pines, florida
Makes sense. I'll be checking all my vacuum lines. And will look into a fuel press tester.
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From: pembroke pines, florida
just to keep up to date, i honestly did not try any of these recommendations. i did swap out the MAF sensor with a spare one i had and it fixed the problem. so for future reference for anybody with the same symptoms, test the MAF!!! thanks for all the help
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