Car can't start without 3 injectors unplugged leaking injectors?
12-11-2011, 10:52 AM
#1
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Car can't start without 3 injectors unplugged leaking injectors?
I think I have some leaking fuel injectors. If the car sits over night it starts fine but if you make a quick stop some where and try to start it up again it won't start unless you unplugg the front 3 injectors. Sometimes that doesn't even work.
You have to unplugg them and then press the gas pedal all the way down. One day that didn't work and I think I had got too much fuel in the engine so I took out the EGI(fuel injector fuse/relay) cranked it over a few times to burn off the gas then started with the injectors unplugged.
I had recently made another thread about my no start. It was my cam/crankshat senors but this issue started about 4 weeks ago. The car drives fine just the started and sometimes a rough/unstable idle but I think that's due to too much gas getting in. No codes
So my question is how do I got about verifying it's the fuel injectors? What about the 3 underneath the intake manifold? I change the fuel pressure regulator because I think that was the cause but the problem is still going on. The old one did leak where the vacuum hose goes. I think that means it was bad.
Also cleaning the crank/cam sensors cured my prior no start issue but I read someone what the camshaft sensor control the fuel injectors operation some-how. Could this be related to my issue?
Car running with 3 injectors unplugged.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aK0D9uGkb1k
You have to unplugg them and then press the gas pedal all the way down. One day that didn't work and I think I had got too much fuel in the engine so I took out the EGI(fuel injector fuse/relay) cranked it over a few times to burn off the gas then started with the injectors unplugged.
I had recently made another thread about my no start. It was my cam/crankshat senors but this issue started about 4 weeks ago. The car drives fine just the started and sometimes a rough/unstable idle but I think that's due to too much gas getting in. No codes
So my question is how do I got about verifying it's the fuel injectors? What about the 3 underneath the intake manifold? I change the fuel pressure regulator because I think that was the cause but the problem is still going on. The old one did leak where the vacuum hose goes. I think that means it was bad.
Also cleaning the crank/cam sensors cured my prior no start issue but I read someone what the camshaft sensor control the fuel injectors operation some-how. Could this be related to my issue?
Car running with 3 injectors unplugged.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aK0D9uGkb1k
Last edited by augnon; 12-12-2011 at 12:48 PM.
12-12-2011, 07:59 AM
#2
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I find it very hard to believe that your car can start with 3 out of 6 FI's unplugged.
Just doesn't make sense.
What did you do in regards to your cam and crank sensors?
There are two crank sensors, REF and POS.
REF looks at the timing ring on the crank pully
POS looks at the timing marks on the flywheel.
If either of these fails, you will have a no start condition.
The Cam sensor controls fuel injector timing.
Have you checked the ECT sensor at both cold and warm temps?
When you experience the hard start, do you get a cloud of black smoke out the tail pipe when you manage to get it started? Once it starts with 3 injectors unplugged, how do you keep it running? Does it immediately stall or will it run with the injectors unplugged?
A simple fuel pressure test will show you if you have leaking injectors.
Have you pulled the spark plugs out to see if they indicate a rich condition?
Just doesn't make sense.
What did you do in regards to your cam and crank sensors?
There are two crank sensors, REF and POS.
REF looks at the timing ring on the crank pully
POS looks at the timing marks on the flywheel.
If either of these fails, you will have a no start condition.
The Cam sensor controls fuel injector timing.
Have you checked the ECT sensor at both cold and warm temps?
When you experience the hard start, do you get a cloud of black smoke out the tail pipe when you manage to get it started? Once it starts with 3 injectors unplugged, how do you keep it running? Does it immediately stall or will it run with the injectors unplugged?
A simple fuel pressure test will show you if you have leaking injectors.
Have you pulled the spark plugs out to see if they indicate a rich condition?
12-12-2011, 08:10 AM
#3
3 leaking fuel injectors would be very strange. Even if they are, unplugging them before starting wouldn't make any difference, the other 3 cylinders are still OK. Follow njmaxseltd's advice. I would suggest that the first thing you do is pull the spark plugs and see if they are wet.
12-12-2011, 08:19 AM
#4
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I think I have some leaking fuel injectors. If the car sits over night it starts fine but if you make a quick stop some where and try to start it up again it won't start unless you unplugg the front 3 injectors. Sometimes that doesn't even work.
You have to unplugg them and then press the gas pedal all the way down. One day that didn't work and I think I had got too much fuel in the engine so I took out the EGI(fuel injector fuse/relay) cranked it over a few times to burn off the gas then started with the injectors unplugged.
I had recently made another thread about my no start. It was my cam/crankshat senors but this issue started about 4 weeks ago. The car drives fine just the started and sometimes a rough/unstable idle but I think that's due to too much gas getting in. No codes
So my question is how do I got about verifying it's the fuel injectors? What about the 3 underneath the intake manifold? I change the fuel pressure regulator because I think that was the cause but the problem is still going on. The old one did leak where the vacuum hose goes. I think that means it was bad.
Also cleaning the crank/cam sensors cured my prior no start issue but I read someone what the camshaft sensor control the fuel injectors operation some-how. Could this be related to my issue?
You have to unplugg them and then press the gas pedal all the way down. One day that didn't work and I think I had got too much fuel in the engine so I took out the EGI(fuel injector fuse/relay) cranked it over a few times to burn off the gas then started with the injectors unplugged.
I had recently made another thread about my no start. It was my cam/crankshat senors but this issue started about 4 weeks ago. The car drives fine just the started and sometimes a rough/unstable idle but I think that's due to too much gas getting in. No codes
So my question is how do I got about verifying it's the fuel injectors? What about the 3 underneath the intake manifold? I change the fuel pressure regulator because I think that was the cause but the problem is still going on. The old one did leak where the vacuum hose goes. I think that means it was bad.
Also cleaning the crank/cam sensors cured my prior no start issue but I read someone what the camshaft sensor control the fuel injectors operation some-how. Could this be related to my issue?
U know u got a problem when u gotta deactivate 3 cylinders in order to start your car lol
there is a test for in injectors. Basically u have to listen to them to hear if they spraying.
Having 3 of them go bad is posssible. Test them
12-12-2011, 09:45 AM
#5
I agree with everyone else on this. It starts with 3 injectors unplugged? so it take you 15mins or so just to start your car? Then it keeps running with only 3? I don't even see how that is possible in any case no matter the issue. Maybe its the 3 your leaving in there that are failing and they are dumping in to much fuel therefore you can start it with just 3? I would check the fuel pressure like NJ said. If you can rule everything out then its surely your injectors. I read your other thread to and from what you've said, if its correct, its you fuel pressure. Also, on NGK's website they have pictures of spark plugs and what they look like if you have a certain problem. I dont use NGK because so many have failed on me, I use Bosch, but you can narrow done the list of possible problems by investigating the condition of your spark plugs as well. This is the craziest thing ive heard today on the forum, and you can hear some crazy stuff.
12-12-2011, 10:32 AM
#6
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I find it very hard to believe that your car can start with 3 out of 6 FI's unplugged.
Just doesn't make sense.
What did you do in regards to your cam and crank sensors?
There are two crank sensors, REF and POS.
REF looks at the timing ring on the crank pully
POS looks at the timing marks on the flywheel.
If either of these fails, you will have a no start condition.
The Cam sensor controls fuel injector timing.
Have you checked the ECT sensor at both cold and warm temps?
When you experience the hard start, do you get a cloud of black smoke out the tail pipe when you manage to get it started? Once it starts with 3 injectors unplugged, how do you keep it running? Does it immediately stall or will it run with the injectors unplugged?
A simple fuel pressure test will show you if you have leaking injectors.
Have you pulled the spark plugs out to see if they indicate a rich condition?
Just doesn't make sense.
What did you do in regards to your cam and crank sensors?
There are two crank sensors, REF and POS.
REF looks at the timing ring on the crank pully
POS looks at the timing marks on the flywheel.
If either of these fails, you will have a no start condition.
The Cam sensor controls fuel injector timing.
Have you checked the ECT sensor at both cold and warm temps?
When you experience the hard start, do you get a cloud of black smoke out the tail pipe when you manage to get it started? Once it starts with 3 injectors unplugged, how do you keep it running? Does it immediately stall or will it run with the injectors unplugged?
A simple fuel pressure test will show you if you have leaking injectors.
Have you pulled the spark plugs out to see if they indicate a rich condition?
ECT sensor is 6 months old from Auto. Cant remeber about the smoke. I keep it running buy giviing it gas and after the idle stablizes I plug in the fron injectors the even number ones. Before I change the FPR I didn't have to give it gas to keep it from stalling but now with the new FPR it will stall if I don't give it some gas. The car will run with 3 injectors unplugged once the engine temp gauge is past the C mark(around 5 mins.)
12-12-2011, 10:37 AM
#7
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3 leaking fuel injectors would be very strange. Even if they are, unplugging them before starting wouldn't make any difference, the other 3 cylinders are still OK. Follow njmaxseltd's advice. I would suggest that the first thing you do is pull the spark plugs and see if they are wet.
The front 3 all were in spec 10-14 ohm and .2 ohm of each other. So I'm suppecting the rears one are not working. Not sure which one so I thought I would just replace 3 with some used injectors.
12-12-2011, 10:38 AM
#8
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Not sure how to test the rears under the intake manfiold
12-12-2011, 10:43 AM
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I agree with everyone else on this. It starts with 3 injectors unplugged? so it take you 15mins or so just to start your car? Then it keeps running with only 3? I don't even see how that is possible in any case no matter the issue. Maybe its the 3 your leaving in there that are failing and they are dumping in to much fuel therefore you can start it with just 3? I would check the fuel pressure like NJ said. If you can rule everything out then its surely your injectors. I read your other thread to and from what you've said, if its correct, its you fuel pressure. Also, on NGK's website they have pictures of spark plugs and what they look like if you have a certain problem. I dont use NGK because so many have failed on me, I use Bosch, but you can narrow done the list of possible problems by investigating the condition of your spark plugs as well. This is the craziest thing ive heard today on the forum, and you can hear some crazy stuff.
Well I had to get some car repairs done on my trip to Houston from Denver and the guy unplugg 3 and it started right up. He said that fuel was leaking on one of my injectors. He didn't test them because I was in a rush to get to houston.
I though it was the fuel pressure also so that's why I change the FPR well that and the hard starting happening during when the car is warm.
12-12-2011, 11:26 AM
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aK0D...e_gdata_player here is a video of the car running with 3 injectors unplugged the even number cylinders in the front.
Last edited by augnon; 12-12-2011 at 12:48 PM.
12-12-2011, 12:43 PM
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12-12-2011, 01:17 PM
#14
First try cleaning the IACV. If its already been cleaned then test the AAC valve by applying 12V to it. I cannot remember but I believe its the 2 pins on the left that you apply the voltage to. If you hear no clicking while applying the 12V then unbolt the 2 AAC mounting screws and visually inspect it. The black piece was broken from the magnet on my valve so I replaced the IACV.
12-12-2011, 01:40 PM
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Starting on a cold engine the fast idle CAM will be pushing back the throttle plate allowing more air intake for the startup. On a warm engine start the plate is closed with less air intake. During every start the AAC valve within the IACV will slide fully down to allow more air intake for starts. If that valve is defective or is clogged then you will get a rich mixture on the starts. When my AAC valve broke I had to press the gas pedal to allow more air intake on warm starts.
First try cleaning the IACV. If its already been cleaned then test the AAC valve by applying 12V to it. I cannot remember but I believe its the 2 pins on the left that you apply the voltage to. If you hear no clicking while applying the 12V then unbolt the 2 AAC mounting screws and visually inspect it. The black piece was broken from the magnet on my valve so I replaced the IACV.
First try cleaning the IACV. If its already been cleaned then test the AAC valve by applying 12V to it. I cannot remember but I believe its the 2 pins on the left that you apply the voltage to. If you hear no clicking while applying the 12V then unbolt the 2 AAC mounting screws and visually inspect it. The black piece was broken from the magnet on my valve so I replaced the IACV.
I recent did a 2500 mile round trip to houston avg a28mpg no issues in over 40 hours of driving. Only the starting issue. Maybe my IACV is starting to act wierd when the engine is cold. I keep having back to back problems....
12-12-2011, 01:43 PM
#16
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I'm amazed at what the video shows. The VQ is running pretty good on what appears to be 3 FI's disconnected. That's 50% of the engine not firing. How can this be possible? The idle speed seems very high and even increases when the FI's are reconnected. Why is it up over 1000 RPM's to begin with? Perhaps this is enough to keep it spinning with only 50% of it firing.
You need to do some troubleshooting with your hard start issue. Pull the spark plugs and look at the condition of the electrode and insulator. It will tell you if your indeed leaking fuel and running rich. You should also test fuel pressure to see if it falls off quickly after the engine is shut down. That would tell us a lot, but still may not point to leaking FI's.
You need to do some troubleshooting with your hard start issue. Pull the spark plugs and look at the condition of the electrode and insulator. It will tell you if your indeed leaking fuel and running rich. You should also test fuel pressure to see if it falls off quickly after the engine is shut down. That would tell us a lot, but still may not point to leaking FI's.
12-12-2011, 01:55 PM
#17
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I'm amazed at what the video shows. The VQ is running pretty good on what appears to be 3 FI's disconnected. That's 50% of the engine not firing. How can this be possible? The idle speed seems very high and even increases when the FI's are reconnected. Why is it up over 1000 RPM's to begin with? Perhaps this is enough to keep it spinning with only 50% of it firing.
You need to do some troubleshooting with your hard start issue. Pull the spark plugs and look at the condition of the electrode and insulator. It will tell you if your indeed leaking fuel and running rich. You should also test fuel pressure to see if it falls off quickly after the engine is shut down. That would tell us a lot, but still may not point to leaking FI's.
You need to do some troubleshooting with your hard start issue. Pull the spark plugs and look at the condition of the electrode and insulator. It will tell you if your indeed leaking fuel and running rich. You should also test fuel pressure to see if it falls off quickly after the engine is shut down. That would tell us a lot, but still may not point to leaking FI's.
What's the best way to test fuel pressure?
If I don't let the car warm up a bit before putting it in drive it will die. This just started 4 days ago.... why so many life problems?/?
12-12-2011, 02:30 PM
#18
If unplugging the injectors makes a difference, its not the injectors, but rather the signal. Shorted negatives would hold the injectors open I believe. If it was mechanical, ie o-rings or carbon jamming them open, they would still leak while unplugged. If the injectors themselves were bad, unplugging them would not affect your starting.
Last edited by asand1; 12-12-2011 at 05:10 PM.
12-12-2011, 02:39 PM
#19
This will be interesting once it is solved. Im not embarrassed to say that this issue is past my knowledge base. I understand it can run with only 3 injectors, but if you drove it would literally have half of the power and I would think the ECU would freak out and send all sorts of error codes and likely break something else.
12-12-2011, 04:03 PM
#20
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This will be interesting once it is solved. Im not embarrassed to say that this issue is past my knowledge base. I understand it can run with only 3 injectors, but if you drove it would literally have half of the power and I would think the ECU would freak out and send all sorts of error codes and likely break something else.
12-12-2011, 05:17 PM
#21
Think about it, what has a better chance of starting?
5 functioning cylinders, and 1 leaking (flooded)cylinder
VS
2 functioning cylinders, 3 dead cylinders, & 1 flooded cylinder
Do you have any codes?
12-12-2011, 07:02 PM
#22
I'm amazed at what the video shows. The VQ is running pretty good on what appears to be 3 FI's disconnected. That's 50% of the engine not firing. How can this be possible? The idle speed seems very high and even increases when the FI's are reconnected. Why is it up over 1000 RPM's to begin with? Perhaps this is enough to keep it spinning with only 50% of it firing.
You need to do some troubleshooting with your hard start issue. Pull the spark plugs and look at the condition of the electrode and insulator. It will tell you if your indeed leaking fuel and running rich. You should also test fuel pressure to see if it falls off quickly after the engine is shut down. That would tell us a lot, but still may not point to leaking FI's.
You need to do some troubleshooting with your hard start issue. Pull the spark plugs and look at the condition of the electrode and insulator. It will tell you if your indeed leaking fuel and running rich. You should also test fuel pressure to see if it falls off quickly after the engine is shut down. That would tell us a lot, but still may not point to leaking FI's.
Chances are its the lower o-ring that slipped off. The plastic cap at the end of the injector probably came off and the o-ring is probably not holding pressure.
12-13-2011, 08:48 AM
#23
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I have seen 4cyl cars run on 2 cyl but the car ran like crap. If your car is still running good on 3 cyl well im jus confused then.
If u are using the gas pedal to keep the car running on start up then u either not getting enough air or fuel. Or the car is sparking until its warm.
U check the condition of your coils and plugs on those bad cyl?
If u are using the gas pedal to keep the car running on start up then u either not getting enough air or fuel. Or the car is sparking until its warm.
U check the condition of your coils and plugs on those bad cyl?
12-13-2011, 11:16 AM
#24
I would think that JHolley nailed it with the IACV/AAC.
DW
12-13-2011, 01:22 PM
#25
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Unplugging the front injectors to compensate for leaky rears would not help starting.
Think about it, what has a better chance of starting?
5 functioning cylinders, and 1 leaking (flooded)cylinder
VS
2 functioning cylinders, 3 dead cylinders, & 1 flooded cylinder
Do you have any codes?
Think about it, what has a better chance of starting?
5 functioning cylinders, and 1 leaking (flooded)cylinder
VS
2 functioning cylinders, 3 dead cylinders, & 1 flooded cylinder
Do you have any codes?
12-13-2011, 01:27 PM
#26
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[QUOTE=cashoit;8299342]I have seen 4cyl cars run on 2 cyl but the car ran like crap. If your car is still running good on 3 cyl well im jus confused then.
If u are using the gas pedal to keep the car running on start up then u either not getting enough air or fuel. Or the car is sparking until its warm.
U check the condition of your coils and plugs on those bad cyl?[/QUOT. I put in new plugs no codes coils. Seem good no cracks etc
If u are using the gas pedal to keep the car running on start up then u either not getting enough air or fuel. Or the car is sparking until its warm.
U check the condition of your coils and plugs on those bad cyl?[/QUOT. I put in new plugs no codes coils. Seem good no cracks etc
12-13-2011, 03:02 PM
#27
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Interesting observation but the IACV doesn't explain the hard starting right?>
12-13-2011, 03:04 PM
#28
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I have seen 4cyl cars run on 2 cyl but the car ran like crap. If your car is still running good on 3 cyl well im jus confused then.
If u are using the gas pedal to keep the car running on start up then u either not getting enough air or fuel. Or the car is sparking until its warm.
U check the condition of your coils and plugs on those bad cyl?
If u are using the gas pedal to keep the car running on start up then u either not getting enough air or fuel. Or the car is sparking until its warm.
U check the condition of your coils and plugs on those bad cyl?
I think think I may have mis-communicated some info.
I have to hold the gas pedal down in order to start the car once started it will run with out pressure the gas. I'm assuming holding the gas all the way done either turns off fuel injectors(to help with flooding) or just lets alot of air in during cranking.
12-13-2011, 04:05 PM
#29
With a warm engine can you restart it by slightly pressing on the gas pedal while leaving those injectors still plugged in? If you can then you no doubt are flooding the engine and getting lack-of-air during startup.
12-13-2011, 07:17 PM
#30
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Allowing for air intake while our MAX is idling and the TP switch closed is not the only function of the IACV/AAC. As I explained in my previous post it slides fully open allowing for air intake during every start. During a warm start that is the only air intake allowed so you won't get a start if it's defective unless you press the gas pedal.
With a warm engine can you restart it by slightly pressing on the gas pedal while leaving those injectors still plugged in? If you can then you no doubt are flooding the engine and getting lack-of-air during startup.
With a warm engine can you restart it by slightly pressing on the gas pedal while leaving those injectors still plugged in? If you can then you no doubt are flooding the engine and getting lack-of-air during startup.
What's a good way to test the IACV/AAC. I still think I have some leaking injectors since I have to some how "turn off" some of them to keep the engine from getting too much gas. Yes my spark plugs were soaked the ones in the back where.
You make some very good points. I hate of problem "mask" or emulate other problem such as in the this case. IT seems odd that my IACV would malfunction all of a sudden especially after cleaning it.
Last edited by augnon; 12-13-2011 at 07:23 PM.
12-13-2011, 07:25 PM
#31
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Unplugging the front injectors to compensate for leaky rears would not help starting.
Think about it, what has a better chance of starting?
5 functioning cylinders, and 1 leaking (flooded)cylinder
VS
2 functioning cylinders, 3 dead cylinders, & 1 flooded cylinder
Do you have any codes?
Think about it, what has a better chance of starting?
5 functioning cylinders, and 1 leaking (flooded)cylinder
VS
2 functioning cylinders, 3 dead cylinders, & 1 flooded cylinder
Do you have any codes?
Also my understand is that unplugging some of then will stop them from firing(can fire with no electricity) and keep the extra fuel out.
12-13-2011, 07:29 PM
#32
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About gas mileage. I avg around 20-21 city driving, some of you may remember my thread about prem vs reg it turn into a big thread. That was even with two front O2 sensor codes.
MY city gas mileage is suffering. My tail/muffler/cat back is now black from all the extra unburned fuel and smelling gas is not un-common. I can even hear a small miss from the exhaust which also leads me to believe the leaky injector(s) is the culprit. The car has had multiple seam-foam treatments all repairs/maintenance/tune ups are up to date. The only thing I didn't do was the EGR valve because I couldn't take the bottom bolt off.
12-13-2011, 07:42 PM
#33
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I fogot to include that
Also when starting up cold it will idle erratically until warm. With the idle being unstable I can't shift into drive or it will die.
I think I found the cause of the erratic idle until warm. My car was VERY low on coolant.(water pump seal failing)I filled up before starting the car and no erratic idle. My Scan tool pulled a P0125.
Also when starting up cold it will idle erratically until warm. With the idle being unstable I can't shift into drive or it will die.
I think I found the cause of the erratic idle until warm. My car was VERY low on coolant.(water pump seal failing)I filled up before starting the car and no erratic idle. My Scan tool pulled a P0125.
Last edited by augnon; 12-13-2011 at 09:49 PM.
12-14-2011, 12:13 PM
#34
If they are leaking due to o-rings, or the pintle jamming, they will leak regardless of signal. Leaking, is the result of a physical/mechanical problem with the injector. Seems to me that by unplugging the injectors, you've ruled out a leak, and possibly indicated an electrical problem. Check your pulse width on all injectors and compare.
12-14-2011, 01:51 PM
#35
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If they are leaking due to o-rings, or the pintle jamming, they will leak regardless of signal. Leaking, is the result of a physical/mechanical problem with the injector. Seems to me that by unplugging the injectors, you've ruled out a leak, and possibly indicated an electrical problem. Check your pulse width on all injectors and compare.
I don't always have to uplugg them. For example I just came back from Taco Bell the car had been sitting overnight it started right up but due to all the extra fuel leaking inside it idle funny till it burned off the excess. You can also smell gas.
I was thinking about renting a fuel pressure tester from autozone, I'm hoping they have an inline adapter since the 4th fsm says to use this time.
How can I check pulse width on my injectors. I'm trying to avoid taking the car to a mechanic.
Thanks for your input.
12-19-2011, 11:27 AM
#37
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UPDATE
ISSUE RESOLVED.
It was the ETCS. I ruled it out because I have changed it recently. I got feed up with this issue so I took it to a mechanic. The sensor was reading 40 degrees F but a laser thermometer was reading 125 degrees F. The car was spraying extra fuel into the car. This is where the gas smell wet spark plugs and reduced mpg came from. I never got a code for the ECTS until 2 days ago...
I picked up a sensor from my local nissan and all is well.
It was the ETCS. I ruled it out because I have changed it recently. I got feed up with this issue so I took it to a mechanic. The sensor was reading 40 degrees F but a laser thermometer was reading 125 degrees F. The car was spraying extra fuel into the car. This is where the gas smell wet spark plugs and reduced mpg came from. I never got a code for the ECTS until 2 days ago...
I picked up a sensor from my local nissan and all is well.
12-19-2011, 11:38 AM
#38
ISSUE RESOLVED.
It was the ETCS. I ruled it out because I have changed it recently. I got feed up with this issue so I took it to a mechanic. The sensor was reading 40 degrees F but a laser thermometer was reading 125 degrees F. The car was spraying extra fuel into the car. This is where the gas smell wet spark plugs and reduced mpg came from. I never got a code for the ECTS until 2 days ago...
I picked up a sensor from my local nissan and all is well.
It was the ETCS. I ruled it out because I have changed it recently. I got feed up with this issue so I took it to a mechanic. The sensor was reading 40 degrees F but a laser thermometer was reading 125 degrees F. The car was spraying extra fuel into the car. This is where the gas smell wet spark plugs and reduced mpg came from. I never got a code for the ECTS until 2 days ago...
I picked up a sensor from my local nissan and all is well.
12-19-2011, 11:50 AM
#40
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Denver From Houston Lived in Boston
Posts: 242
I don't think anybody could have fathomed that issue since the sensor did throw a code until 2 days ago yet the issue started way before then.
As always the org have helped.