'97 GLE w/ timing chain rattle
#1
'97 GLE w/ timing chain rattle
Ok so tomorrow after work I'm going to be test driving, as the thread title states, a '97GLE with what the seller said is "loose timing chain but noise goes away when driven"... I DO plan on having the thing inspected if the test drive goes well.
I am just wondering how long the car can go like this? If it in fact is timing chain rattle...do I need to start saving for a new engine now?
And YES, I already took 1500 off the asking price (assumption of new TC), and they agreed on it for the most part.
So if all goes well, this time next week I may have myself a Max
I am just wondering how long the car can go like this? If it in fact is timing chain rattle...do I need to start saving for a new engine now?
And YES, I already took 1500 off the asking price (assumption of new TC), and they agreed on it for the most part.
So if all goes well, this time next week I may have myself a Max
#2
Have a trusted mechanic take the cover off and have a look see. A lot of times they can see things the average max owner cannot. A new timing chain tensioner isn't much money and you could probably install it yourself. Would give you a good start with knowing your engine components.
#3
Have a trusted mechanic take the cover off and have a look see. A lot of times they can see things the average max owner cannot. A new timing chain tensioner isn't much money and you could probably install it yourself. Would give you a good start with knowing your engine components.
#5
time consuming? yes. Hard? No I wouldn't say so. I watched my friend do it to his and then we did mine. About 5 hours due to several trips in front of the fire to thaw out
#6
the VQ30 doesnt have a serpentine belt.. its most likely the tc tensioner. i have the same problem and ive been driving it for over a year. the vq30 is a great engine so i say go for it! if anything just get a VQ35 put in and call it a day.
#7
Shock, my point was 5 hours labor is not worth an ispection. 5hrs x $70-90. Who's gonna pay that bill?
#8
The seller has already agreed to take 1300 off of asking due to the TC, in its current state whether or not I need a new one. If not, then it's gravy, and I'm getting a 97 for under blue book. If so, then I am breaking even.
I made an appt for inspection on Saturday, will go down after work this afternoon to make sure the rattle is something I can live with for awhile (and is truly not something like the VQ disintegrating on me).
I made an appt for inspection on Saturday, will go down after work this afternoon to make sure the rattle is something I can live with for awhile (and is truly not something like the VQ disintegrating on me).
#10
Ok guys and gals, I just got done test driving it. My impressions are below...let me know what y'all think...
He drove it up and there was most absolutely rattle of some sort going on...sounded like it was coming from passenger side of engine when I had hood up. After driving it for about 2 minutes it went away completely. Total drive was for about 15-20 minutes.
Great acceleration, good braking. No drift left or right. Did feel, VERY FAINTLY, some sort of rhythmic rotation feelings while driving...almost like an underinflated tire. They looked ok, no clicking with sharp turns either direction so CVs aren't torn all up as far as I can tell.
Car turned off then 5 mins on again, rattle returns at idle.
Regarding the rattle, it goes completely away when at mild accelleration and above. Is this indicative of TC rattle or somethin else? It was raining and dark (typical seattle) so it wasn't possible to remove anything and look myself. Besides, I doubt he'd let me tear into the engine without buying it first anyhow...assuming I even knew how to do it and what to look for.
So inspection scheduled for Saturday, he did tell me that if another better offer came in before that then he'd drop mine like a potato (not in so many words but that's what he meant)...
And he won't go lower than 2500 no matter what inspection shows needs work. That's his lowest he said.
Advise from the forum on this one??
He drove it up and there was most absolutely rattle of some sort going on...sounded like it was coming from passenger side of engine when I had hood up. After driving it for about 2 minutes it went away completely. Total drive was for about 15-20 minutes.
Great acceleration, good braking. No drift left or right. Did feel, VERY FAINTLY, some sort of rhythmic rotation feelings while driving...almost like an underinflated tire. They looked ok, no clicking with sharp turns either direction so CVs aren't torn all up as far as I can tell.
Car turned off then 5 mins on again, rattle returns at idle.
Regarding the rattle, it goes completely away when at mild accelleration and above. Is this indicative of TC rattle or somethin else? It was raining and dark (typical seattle) so it wasn't possible to remove anything and look myself. Besides, I doubt he'd let me tear into the engine without buying it first anyhow...assuming I even knew how to do it and what to look for.
So inspection scheduled for Saturday, he did tell me that if another better offer came in before that then he'd drop mine like a potato (not in so many words but that's what he meant)...
And he won't go lower than 2500 no matter what inspection shows needs work. That's his lowest he said.
Advise from the forum on this one??
#11
Another question...I am used to the climate control consisting of dials and ***** and levers... this electronic climate control setup on the GLE. Seemed wonky...how easy is it to get used to? Thanks
#12
You can live with the rattle on startup. From what I have been reading in the 4th gen forum a lot of us have the startup rattle. How many miles are on this car? $2500 sounds ok for a lower milage Maxima without mechanical issues and rusted body parts. You could replace the tensioner at a later date if funds or winter weather are a problem.
I bought my 95 GLE with 130,000 miles on it for $500 bucks. It had a new water pump and a completely new exhaust. The only serious body issues are where the Upstate NY winters have rusted through both front fenders right where the bumper cover meets the fenders. Other than gas and oil changes the only $$ I have spent on her is a CAI, and front brakes. Long story short... you should jump at buying this car is there are no other issues. Maxima build quality and VQ power... worth every penny.
I bought my 95 GLE with 130,000 miles on it for $500 bucks. It had a new water pump and a completely new exhaust. The only serious body issues are where the Upstate NY winters have rusted through both front fenders right where the bumper cover meets the fenders. Other than gas and oil changes the only $$ I have spent on her is a CAI, and front brakes. Long story short... you should jump at buying this car is there are no other issues. Maxima build quality and VQ power... worth every penny.
#13
I like the digital climate control. Push a few buttons to set it and forget it. Did I just make Ron Poppiel reference? lol
#14
Its really easy to use.. i dont think i can go back to *****.. i have a hard time figuring them out
#15
hah. mine just started the rattle a few days ago. i figured it was TC. only does it after i rev it past 1K. as it idles down to normal, the rattle appears as the chain slows down. (for obvious reasons)
#16
If I remember right, the car has never left washington state, so rust isn't much of an issue.
Does the 97GLE come pre-wired for foglights? This car didn't have 'em. Only one reg. Headlamp working but even with brights on I am not enthused about light output. Will need to do something about that stat.
Overall though, if the inspection comes out ok (or at least better than the last one I did) I think I'm going to jump on this car.
Does the 97GLE come pre-wired for foglights? This car didn't have 'em. Only one reg. Headlamp working but even with brights on I am not enthused about light output. Will need to do something about that stat.
Overall though, if the inspection comes out ok (or at least better than the last one I did) I think I'm going to jump on this car.
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