I've got a 96, with an AT. For years I've had shifting problems, which just recently got worse. I've known about the tranny solenoid upgrade, and finally decided I needed to do something about it. So I replaced them. But now I can't move. When I first started the engine after I got it back together, I ran the shifter through the gears, but it either wasn't shifting, or shifting very softly. And I couldn't get the lever into D1. So I took the parking brake off, and it wouldn't move in any gear. I think it tried to move forward just a bit when I had it in reverse, but that only happened once, and after that none of the gears do anything.

This is what I was following: http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB98-043.pdf The only thing that didn't seem right is the fact that the manual plate didn't contact the manual valve shaft, in figure 5. My manual plate stayed over to the left, and the manual valve shaft sat in the hole. I could pull it out, but it seemed like it belonged in there. And it sure didn't look like the manual valve shaft connected to the manual plate. In fact, my manual plate looks like it's oriented 90 degrees off--the flat side is perpendicular to the manual valve shaft. (I don't think they could have made those names more confusing if they tried.)

At this point, the only thing I can think of is to take it apart again and see if I can make it look like figure 5. Beyond that, I don't have any ideas. Do any of the tranny experts have any suggestions (other than, next time take it to a shop)?

 

well, the manual shaft is what determines your gear as you very well know if its sightly off you will go nowhere so i will descibe the placement as best i can


the gear selection pin in the trans MUST be in neutral at the time the valvebody is installed. then the manual shaft has a "D" cut into it. the pin must rest in the center of this "D" if not you cannot select the proper gear

if the gear selector is in the proper position you may have a faulty line pressure solenoid make sure the level is full and the fluid is clean (i know duh but i have to say it anyways) check the TCM for codes if codes are present report back

make sure the valvebody is torqued to the proper spec and ythe bolt are in the correct position

on the 4th gen valve body the solenoids are interchangeable make sure they are all in the correct order

if everything is in the right place and the trans appears to be visually correct then you have a internal trans problem and it must be replaced... sorry...

 

Do you mean the gear selector in the car must be in N? Or is the gear selection pin inside the trans itself?

 

the car must be in neutral.

if the pin isnt lined up the valvebody has to be removed again

 

I was afraid of that. Well, at least I've got some hope now. I'll take it out again this weekend and see if I can make it work. Thanks. And stay tuned, I'll probably be back...

 

valvebody upgrade? can someone please explain.

 

A valvebody upgrade is a simple reprograming kit it consist of springs and drilling holes professional installation is highly recommended

It shifts firmer faster and better it also completely changes the way the trans acts

 

I was going to say what maxed out_99 was going to say drop the pan and check the gear selector and the gear pin thats in the tranny bottom have the selector and the grooves in the center all lined up.

 

sounds bad ***. what would it cost normally for tranny shop to install them and buy them?

 

Badass is an understatement.

The kit I have is about 150 to install it is probably another 150-200

 

is the replacements from the dealership the upgraded ones your talking about? I'm about to put a new A/T in my 4th gen and im getting it from a junkyard and wanna freshen up all the seals and might as well throw the new solenoids in it while trannys on a bench.



Sorry Not trying to jack your thread but I wouldn't wanna open a new thread to ask a simple question. people that are knowledged in the A/T's are already in here.

 

It's a kit for the valvebody if your going to replace the accumulator seals and solenoids this would be the best time to install the reprograming kit. Your going to have the valvebody out anyways

 

If this is a success, I would consider doing it as it should cure the hard shifting from 1st to 2nd.

 

Um... The solenoids? Yes.
The reprograming kit will slam every gear all the time

 

Hey DBear, any updates? Did you get your max back on the streets?

 

Hi Maxed. Thanks for asking, I was going to post an update later. The tranny is alive and well. When I took it apart again and put the gear shift into neutral, the linkup became clear. If I had taken a little time to back off and think about it, I probably would have figured it out, but I wanted to get it back together before the weekend was over.

I've only driven it today, but my over-revving problem hasn't appeared, and I might even have cured my long-term OD problem. So I'm still an idiot, but now I'm a happy idiot. Thanks for jumping in with the right answer.

 

Lack of experience and idiocy are 2 compleatly different things if you can't swim and someone throws you in a pool then calls you stupid they have some major problems you've never taken a trans apart so mistakes are bound to happen that's how you learn.

im glad it all worked out and was nothing serious i was happy to help that what this forum should be all about

transman out

 

Just to be clear, the only one that called me an idiot was me. And I'm entitled.

Since there seem to be a few people interested, I'll elaborate a bit. For years I've had a problem with the tranny hunting at freeway speeds under light load, and dropping out of gear going downhill. I finally started turning OD off, which worked until just recently. I just got it running again this morning, and so far that problem hasn't returned, but I'm not going to consider it fixed unless it's good for a few weeks. If so, I'll revive my old thread and report back. What finally made me tackle this job was the fact that it recently started over-revving in first. It would rev to 3K or more before shifting, and it seemed really reluctant to shift. So I picked up the rebuild kit from courtesy for about $95 (it's mentioned in the TSB I linked to). The over revving had become pretty constant, and it hasn't been back at all, so I feel pretty good that it's fixed. And overall the shifting seems a lot smoother. So it was very worthwhile. Now, of course, I could do the whole thing in about an hour and a half, but you're right--that's how you learn.

And I really don't know what I'd do without this forum.

 

well if you put it that way if you cant swim dont jump in a lake and say "oh man im such an idiot" while you splashing and spinning in cricles

 

I can swim OK, I just p** in the water every once in a while.

 

Ok so things worked out for you after all. If you don't mind, can you post up the part number for the kit. Did you have the hard shift from 1st to 2nd? If so, did uit cure it as well. Thanks man.

 

Part # is 31940-80X25. It cost me $90 from Courtesy.
The number came from this bulletin: http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB98-043.pdf. It's also mentioned here, which is what I followed for the install: http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB98-049d.pdf

When you say "hard shift," do you mean it would shift with a thunk? I've always thought that was drop resistor. My issue (the current one, anyway) was that it wouldn't shift until up around 3K or more. I'd call that a "reluctant" shift, but if you mean "hard to get it to shift" it could be the same thing.

 

Yes, hard shift would be with a thunk but all other gear shifts were fine. The drop resistor was thought to be the problem but it was ruled out being the line pressure solenoid. Since you have replaced yours, I was wondering if it shifts smoothly in all gears.

 

I only have about 100 miles on it since, but so far it's shifting very nicely. The over-rev issue is gone, and it just seems like it's shifting more smoothly overall, but I didn't have any significant shifting problems besides the over-rev, so it's hard to say.

 

Thanks for the links, that is very helpful! Mine is doing the thunk, and I want smooth.